Ignatius Spencer Diaries – Volume I (1817–1820)



THE DIARY OF

IGNATIUS SPENCER

1817 – 1820

Volume 1

The Diary has been transcribed onto a wordprocessor:

C:WP50IGSPEN

The Directory contains 19 files and this introduction.

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DIARY PAGE

Inside page to p.9
p.10 – 19
p.20 – 29
p.30 – 41
p.42 – 49
p.50 – 59
p.60 – 69
p.70 – 79
p.80 – 89
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p.164 – 165

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C O N V E N T I O N S

The printed pages follow the Diary pages, even when it means breaking in mid-sentence.

Minor crossings out have been omitted

There is no use of the apostrophe throughout the diary.

Capital letters are not used at the start of many sentences; these have been added to facilitate the smooth reading of the text.

The Diary contains many abbreviations, and the use of "&"; these have been generally replaced by the full word so as to facilitate the smooth reading of the text.

Frequently the punctuation ceases to exist.

Numerals are frequently used, but not exclusively.

A variety of spellings of the same word are to be found.

***** indicates illegible or indecipherable.

< > an explanation added by the transcriber.

G. Spencer

May 10th. 1817 I began a journal then, but having continued for some time, I burnt that part, and began again some time afterwards with my Cambridge life. Oct. 18. 1817.

N.B. The reason for burning it was that it contained little but an account of a week spent at Eaton in January 1817.

< NINE LINES ARE DELETED >

Althorp Jan 17 1819

This book should last me till Oct. 1 1820 according to an average made Feb. 19 1819. And till Nov. 24, 1820 according to the 2nd average of Jan 1 1820 and Dec. 13 1820 according to the 3rd average of Sep 22 1820
Average of time in one page up to Feb 19 1819 6 days 6 hrs 24 minutes.
" " " " " " " " Jan 1 1820 6 days 19 hrs 55 minutes 55 seconds 55 tenths of a second.
Average of time in one page up to Sep 22 1820 6 days 22hrs 54 minutes 32 seconds 43 tenths of a second.
Average of time in one page up to Dec 4 1820 7 days 5 hrs 6 minutes.

London Oct 18, Oct 21, 1817 Cambridge (1)
1817
Oct 18 Saturday. Today we arrived here in St. James's Place from Althorp where we have been staying for a fortnight alone. Our party there consisted of my Father and Mother, Fritz and myself, and Althorp, whom we left there for the hunting. This morning we had a letter from Bob, who was at Malta in the Ganymede. We had another letter from him this evening, which being sent by a private hand, reached us much faster. It was from Leghorn. Fritz expects soon to sail for the Mediterranean with Captain Maitland in the Glasgow. He will probably soon be promoted to Lieutenant, and return home upon that, for a good length of time. I myself go to Cambridge to begin my College life on Tuesday next the 21st of Oct. I shall have a great deal to make up there in reading, for I have been very idle this vacation. I began it very well, but the cricket playing at Ryde, the shooting ever since, quite took me away from study.

Sunday Oct 19. Today Lord & Lady Elkow came to see my Mother. She looks extremely handsome. He seems good humoured and unaffected, so that they will go on very well. I went to church with Fritz at St. Jamess where Mr. Glen preached. After that we walked to see Harris at the Charter House. In coming back we went an immense distance out of the way, and at last were obliged to come back in a Hackney coach. Mr. Grenville, Bedingfield, and George Isted dined with us. Mr. Bedingfield I have not seen for many years, and he is grown much older in looks.

Monday Oct 20. The Elkows breakfasted here this morning before they set out for Scotland. Fritz and I spent the morning in going about the town on business of different kinds, he preparing for sea, I for Cambridge. We then to Grosvenor House, and to Mr Fremantles house in Stanhope Street, but both Wilton and Fremantle were gone to Oxford. Mr. Grenville dined with us again, we all went to the play but my Mother, and saw Romeo and Juliet. Miss O'Neil acted admirably and Lady Bessborough with William and Lady Barbara Ponsonby came there. The latter are just going abroad.

Tuesday Oct 21. Today I had intended to have gone to Cambridge by the Fly which sets off from Holborn at 7 o'clock, but there being no place in it I set off in a chaise at 10 o'clock and got to Cambridge a little before six. Old Newby was at the Inn

(2) Cambridge Oct 22, 24, 1817

and took me directly to Mr. Hustler who was very civil to me. I then went and dined on beef steaks at the Inn, after which I went about to different shops to buy necessaries. I then went again to Mr. Hustler and saw Mr Andrews an old friend of my Fathers, who is bringing his son to Bennet College. After which I retired to my room and had tea. I engaged a man the name of Turner as my Jip

Wednesday Oct 22. I breakfasted by myself this morning in my own rooms; and then went to supply myself further from the shops in the Town. I then got a horse at Jordans and rode over to Hildersham where I saw Blomfield and all his pupils. They seem going on just as of old, when I was among them. The house is pretty and so is the garden, but the country all round is flat in the extreme. Mrs. Blomfield says that she is better, but I do not think she looks even so well as she did when last I saw her. I fear she will not survive her complaint. Hornby likes the place and Blomfield very well as he told me. I returned from thence just in time to dress and go into the Hall with Hustler. Fielding was there to have his gown put on and E. Hornby was dining there almost for the first time. I went into Combination Room where we staid for half an hour. I had intended to go into Chapel, but I met Brecknock who is just arrived, and quite forgot it. I then went to see Graham with him and found Hamilton there.

Thursday October 23. Today Blomfield came here with Hornby and Somerset. I walked about with them for some time. I went with Hornby and Somerset to see Kings Chapel, which is the most perfect I think, certainly in either University, and almost in England as a Chapel only. I saw Thynne for the first time from my leaving Eton. He is very much like what he was, and very idle. I drank tea with him and Wodehouse minor at St. Johns. Brecknock came and sat with me in the evening for a good while. I went to lectures for the first time. Evans lectures in Classics, Peacock in Mathematicks. We are to do the Philoctetes & Euclid at first; we began neither today. I went also to Evening Chapel for the 1st time.

Friday Oct 24. I breakfasted with Brecknock and went to lectures where we began the respective subjects. Only two men were put on by Evans, but Peacock carried his questions among us all round, and some stupid answers were made. My time with Evans my tutor is twelve. I dined in Hall and went to Chapel, and drank tea with Hamilton and Harford who seems a bit of a puppy. Hamilton I like very well, but he is very idle.

Cambridge Oct 25 – 29 1817 (3)

Saturday Oct 25. I went to Morning Chapel as it was a surplice morning. I breakfasted alone, and then read or translated Thucydides till 12, for their were no lectures as it is the day of the kings accession. At 12 I went to Evans with Thucydides till past 2. I then went out visiting till dinner, this was the first feast dinner I have seen and it is very good. I then went among many others F.Cs <FELLOW COMMONERS> to Combination Room for the first time of my seeing the large room, and after that to Chapel. I saw Drewe and Wodehouse who said that they are coming here. I shall most likely see them, and I expect that my doubts will be removed as to the consequence of what passed between me and < DELETED > I believe I have acted as I ought about it, and if it yet ends seriously I cannot help it.

Sunday Oct 26. I went to both Chapels and to St. Mary's in the morning where I met Sir Francis Sykes. He asked me to see his rooms at St. Johns, and when there he asked me to supper on Tuesday. I am going there and I suppose must ask him again to dinner or something else, but I should not wish to continue in acquaintance with him, for tho' he is good natured, he is likely to be in a bad set. I met Townsend at Brecknocks rooms in the morning. I took a short walk out of the town with Brecknock, dined in Hall, and drank tea alone.

Monday 27. I breakfasted alone and went to lectures, after which I went to play at tennis for the first time of trying. Of course I made very little of it this trial, but I shall go on learning for it is the best possible exercise for College. The Newmarket October meeting begins today, and a great many men are gone there from hence. I wined with Harford in his lodgings, and met Long, Brimmer, & Gentleman Peacock. I like him much better than I did at first, he is very good humoured and throws off the fine gentleman by degrees. Mr. Mawman came to me this evening and is going to Hildersham to dine on Wednesday as well as I. (9 hours reading).

Tuesday 28. I breakfasted alone and went to both lectures and to Evans and to Morning chapel. At 1 I went to tennis where I was placed against Romilly. I went to wine with Mr. Judgson, and with several more new Fellow Commoners. I did not go to Sykes for he wrote me word that he had mistaken the day in asking me instead of tomorrow, when I am luckily engaged, for I do not want to go, if not necessary. (10 hours)

Wednesday Oct 29. I went to lectures and Evans. At 11 o'clock I went to play at tennis 1/2 an hour. At 2 Cowell and Long came to my rooms. Long is a good sort of fellow enough in appearance, but I do not much like Cowell; they are great friends of Sheridans. Long told me the other day that Mrs. Sheridan was dangerously ill, which kept Sheridan in town. At 1/2 past 2 I went to Hildersham in a chaise with Monk and Mawman. We dined in the true old style,
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(3 cont.)

except that I was as visitor instead of being at home there. Hornby is there, and Blomfield likes him very much, he is improved since his being there even I think. Abbott too a son of Lord Colchester is there, fresh since my time. We did not get home till 1/2 past eleven. (3 hours reading)

(4) Cambridge Oct. 30 – Nov 5 1817

Thursday Oct 30 1817. I went to lectures and to Evans after breakfasting alone. At 2 I played at tennis till Hall. I then went to Hamiltons rooms as he had asked me to wine with him, but he was not there so I came home. Brecknock and Pratt drank tea with me after Evening Chapel at which we all were present. I asked Pratt because I found no one else in Chapel that I knew. For I do not like him very much, altho there is no danger in knowing him. They staid till past 8 so I could not read much today, but as my books are not come, I am not yet quite settled to it. I heard today of Mrs Sheridan being dead. (6 hours reading).

Friday Oct 31. This morning I rode to Chesterford to breakfast with my Father who slept there on his way to Holkham. I was thoroughly wet through for it rained almost the whole way there. I came back about 12 o'clock and therefore missed lectures and Evans. I went with Mr. Mawman to see a new printing machine at Smiths which is very ingenious. Thynne, Broadhead and Hornby drank tea with me so that I got very little reading, as I wined with Hamilton. There were there, Harford, Townsend of Trinity Hall, Drewe, Croft and Worsley. (3 hours)

Saturday Nov.1. I went to lectures and Evans. My books came today, so tho' it was a beautiful day I did not go out of College all the morning. I drank tea with Brecknock, and met Fox and Pratt. I then went home with Fox to Christ's College where he sleeps, to see his rooms, and came back with Brecknock. (6 hours)

Sunday Nov. 2. I went to St. Marys in the morning, where they read over the Benefactors. I then went to Graham and met Bridgeman with whom I went to his rooms for some time. I like him very much, I think more than any man here. I made a few calls in the morning and went to Kings Chapel with Harford in the evening. I drank tea with Long, and met Taylor, Hibbert, and Romilly (the Fellow).

Monday Nov. 3. I went to lectures and when I came out of them, fancying it one o'clock, I went out till it was really one, so I missed Evans time. I then came in till Hall, after which I wined with Fielding, and met only Brecknock. Harford and Hamilton with his brother drank tea with me. I like Hamilton very well, but he has some acquaintances whom I do not want to know, but at the same time he is in the best set here, I think, besides his other acquaintances. (8 hours)

Tuesday Nov. 4. I went to lectures but I put off Evans till 5 and went at 1/2 12 to hear Heathcote declaim on King William. I did not dine in hall as it was at 1/2 past 1, but I went to tennis with Hamilton, his brother, Harford, and Pratt as we settled last night. Hamilton tried today and intends to go on with it. I dined with that party excepting Pratt at Litchfields at 4 o'clock, and kept at home after that to read. (10 hours)

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Wednesday Nov. 5. I went into Chapel this morning, and as there were no lectures I asked Broadhead and Stopford to breakfast. They staid till 1/2 past ten. I went to Evans at 12, and at 2 I played at tennis with Bridgeman. I dined in Hall, and went into Combination Room with Stopford and Bridgeman who came to dine with Hustler. In the evening Stopford again came to me; so I asked him to drink tea, which he did. ( 8 hours)

Cambridge Nov 6 – Nov 9 1817 (5)

Thursday Nov. 6. I had not time to breakfast before 9 so I was obliged to do so in a hurry between Evans and Peacocks lectures. I had a letter from Blomfield advising me to attend Divinity lectures, which I shall begin to do tomorrow. Bridgeman is going with me. At 2 I played at tennis with him, and found it was too late for Hall when I left off so I dined alone at Litchfields at 4 o'clock. I went to Chapel, and the rest of the evening I have been reading in my room. (10 hours)

Friday Nov. 7. This morning after lectures I heard the dreadful account of the Princess Charlottes death. It appears to be the greatest calamity that could have befallen us in publick, and is a deplorable event in a private point of view. It must be ascribed to the interposition of Providence, which must have some end in view beyond our comprehension. It has created a very great sensation here, and must have done so in every part of England. At 1/2 past 11 I went to see Fortescue at Magdalen, where he is a Fellow. At 12 I attended Divinity lectures for the first time, they were very much crowded and extremely hot. I then went to Evens till two, after which I played at tennis with Pratt. I went into Hall and wined with Fellows, where I met Hamilton, C. H. Townsend, and Harding. He is the first Kings man I have seen, and he does not give me a very favourable impression of them. I went to Chapel, and had Hamilton and Stopford to tea. The latter is a quiet, good sort of fellow, and Hamilton I like better as I know more of him. (8 hours)

Saturday Nov. 8. I went to lectures and Evans. At 2 I played at tennis till 3. I then came home and read till 6 when I went to dine with Brecknock. I met there Bridgeman, Thynne, Graham, Townsend of Downing, Fox and Pratt. They all played at whist in their turns, but Bridgeman and I, which I am glad I did not, for I like it so well that I should play at it too much, if I once began. On Monday I am to ballotted for, for this new club, which has been set up. I think it is a very good thing to belong to, for the members are all gentlemanlike men, and there are only to be 20; and at any rate it is in my choice whether to give much time to it or not. (7 hours)

Sunday Nov 9. After Chapel this morning I breakfasted with Bernardiston and with Stopford. I then went with them to All Saints Church and heard Mr. Sharpe preach a very good sermon on the death of the Princess Charlotte tho' he delivered it very badly. I then walked about with Bridgeman, or Hibbert, or Fortescue till 3 when I went to St. Mary's. I then went with Fortescue to Magdalen College and came at 1/2 past 4 to dine with Harford, where were Harrington and Croft senior. I went to Chapel and drank tea with Broadhead, and Stopford, then Stopford and I went to Harford where he was at tea with Hamilton. There was a great noise among us there till about 1/2 past nine. Hamilton, Stopford and I came home, and Hamilton came to read in my room which he did till
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Harford came to know whether he would go to town with him tomorrow. We then gave up reading, and soon after they went away. I never fairly lounged the streets before today, and hope never to do so again, for I do not like the thought of this day when I look back on it.

(6) Cambridge Nov 10 – 13 1817

Monday Nov. 10. I went to Divinity Lectures at 12, and Evans at 1. At 2 I went out riding to the Hills intending to meet with Hamilton, and Stopford, and Broadhead, who had gone on there. But I met with no acquaintances, and returned about 4. Before I set off Bridgeman told me that I had been elected of the Club, and when I came back I found that Blake, Earle and I were chosen, but that Gordon, Graham, Brecknock, Pratt, Harford, and Stopford, and Hibbert had been blackballed. I am very sorry for Brecknock. At six I went to dine with Arcedeckne who gave dinner to the whole club consisting of 18 for there were still two numbers wanting, as the club is to consist of 20. There was a great deal of wine drunk there, and some men, particularly Drewe got very drunk, but I hope there will be no more of this kind of goings on. Those that now belong to it are Arcedeckne, Blake, Thynne, the 2 Wodehouses, Earle, Stewart, Greville, 2 Villiers, Bridgeman, Hamilton, Drewe, Townsend, Knox, Murdoch, Broadhead, and myself. After dinner they ballotted again for Gordon, but he was again blackballed, and they are to try for him again at twelve tomorrow. (6 hours)

Tuesday Nov. 11. Today I overslept myself and missed Evans lecture, but went to Peacocks. After that I waited till 12 when we went to ballot for the club. Gordon was bullied in, and Hibbert was admitted. I then went and looked in to the Anatomical lectures with Wodehouse of St. Johns. At 1 I went to Evans, and at 2 played at tennis with Pratt. I dined in Hall and gave wine to Brecknock, Hamilton, Hornby, Stopford, and Barnardiston. I did not go to Chapel and drank tea with Stopford, and Hamilton, and Barnardiston. I wrote a long letter to Fremantle, and it will be 2 before I am in bed. (6 hours)

Wednesday Nov. 12. I went to Lectures and to Evans at 12. I went to Divinity lectures then but finding it so full as it was, and that I had no card, I came back without going in. I played at tennis with Pratt at 2. Blomfield dined with us in Hall. I wined with Mr. Peacock the lecturer where I met several Fellows and Fellow Commoners. Blomfield drank tea with me and so did Monk and Hustler. I thought I had done wrong just after I had asked them but it went off very well. I walked with Blomfield to Sheridan's lodgings but he was not at home. I wrote a long letter to my Mother which made me not be in bed till 1/2 past one. 8 hours employed at home.

Thursday Nov. 13. Today we had no lectures so I breakfasted with Thynne alone. I staid till 11. At 12 I went to be matriculated. After writing our names down Broadhead, Stopford and I walked out of the Town a little way, we came back at 1 and waited in the Senate house till 2 when we took our oaths. I then went to Evans but he was interrupted, so I did not stay all my hour out. I dined in Hall, and went to wine with Thynne, and Bridgeman was there. I went to Chapel and then read till 12. I never liked any place that I ever lived at, as I do Cambridge. But I think that all that < DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

( 6 cont.)

dislike it are men that never read, and do not know what to do with themselves. At first I thought I should know very few people here for they did begin to call on me then, but I now have

Cambridge Nov. 14. Nov 16 & 17 (7)

to keep out the way of several men. I have taken advice from Bridgeman in a good many things, and I shall follow it a little more than I have done hitherto, for I have found myself rather in difficulties about two or three people already. (6 hours)

Friday Nov. 14. I went to Classical Lectures at 9, to Mathematical at 10, to Professor Smythes lectures on Modern History at 11, and to Divinity Lectures at 12. At 1 I went to Evans and staid till 3, when I went to dinner in Hall. I wined with Pratt and met Brecknock, Graham, Townsend, Gordon, Hamilton, and Greville. I came back for Evening Chapel and went again to tea till 8, when I returned. Hamilton came and read in my room till 11, and I read till 12. I have not yet been able to do anything in reading, but prepare for lectures and for Evans, but I hope to be able, when I have got quite clear of arrears in lecture business. 10 hours reading altogether.

Saturday Nov. 15. This morning I did not go to lectures as I breakfasted with Dr. Davy the Master of Caius. I staid from 9 till 1/2 past 10. I like him very well. He was very civil to me, and gave me several pieces of advice about reading. At 11 I went to Smyth's lecture, and at 12 to Evans. I played at tennis at 2. After that Brecknock came to my room for some time. My Father came about 5 today, on his way back from Holkham, and Hustler at 6 gave us a dinner, where we met Graham, and Brecknock, Monk, Evans, Peacock, Judgson, and Hughes the Proctor. I went away about 1/2 past ten, but Hustler made Graham and a few more stay to play at whist. I then went to Brecknocks for a short time, and coming back I called in at Hamiltons, and am now about to go to bed. (only 3 hours reading)

I have been very idle today, but I must take care of myself, or it will not do. I heard from Wilton today who seems dashing away at Oxford. But I always thought he would do so. I have often regretted his not being here, for I shall never find a friend here like him. It is not in the nature of things to make a friend at college, as at a place like Dunton, as it seems to me, but perhaps if he were here, the same reason would in part disunite us. At any rate, I should not be able to read much, if I kept much with him. 3 hours.

Sunday Nov. 16. This morning I breakfasted with my Father at Dr. Davys. We then went to St. Mary's. After my Father went to make some calls, while I attended a meeting of the club on the subject of changing our room from Litchfields to the Eagle and Child which we have done. I then walked about with him for a long time till about 3 o'clock when I came home and read till Chapel time, after which I gave my first dinner. There were here my Father, Graham, Thynne, Monk, Hustler, and Evans. I had asked Brecknock and Bridgeman, but the former is gone to Lord Chathams and Bridgeman was taken ill today. The dinner upon the whole answered pretty well. I must have appeared awkward in a few things, as it was my
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first attempt and I was not prepared for two or three occurrences; but towards the end of it everything went perfectly well. I am sorry

(8) Cambridge Nov 17. Nov 21. 1817

that Bridgeman did not come; for I wished him to know my Father that he might know me better afterwards.

Monday Nov 17. Blomfield came over to breakfast with me to meet my Father, and so did Hamilton and Stopford. I therefore could not go to lectures. I went at 11 to Smyth's, and at 12 to the Divinity lectures; after which I went to the Fitzwilliam Museum where were my Father and Bridgeman whom I then introduced. I dined in Hall, and came home till Chapel, after which I drank tea alone with Hamilton, and read a little with him there. Afterwards he came to read in my room. I read till nearly twelve, and then fell asleep. (8 hours)

Tuesday Nov. 18. I began reading at 8 till nine, then I went to lectures, for my breakfast took hardly any time. I went at eleven to Smyth's, then at 12 to Evans till 2. I went with him then to the Fitzwilliam museum. At 3 I played an hour of tennis with Stopford, and came home till I went to dine with Fox at Christ's which I did at 5 o'clock. I met Thynne, Bridgeman, Hamilton, Graham, Hatton, and Murdoch. After dinner Fox played on his harpsicord and sang with Bridgeman till 9 when Bridgeman and I made our escape. I did it at the expense of my gloves which I could not find. I then read till 1/2 past 1. (10 hours and an half)

Wednesday Nov. 19. We had no lectures today so I breakfasted at 9 by myself. After I walked a little with Hamilton, and was with Stopford for some time. I went to the Senate house at 11, from whence we went in procession to St. Marys; where Dr. Kaye preached a funeral sermon upon the Princess Charlotte. It was a good sermon, but not so good as it might have been. I then came home and read for about an hour and 1/2. After which I walked to the club room and to Bridgeman. I met Thynne there and brought him to dinner in Hall. I then read from 4 till 1/2 past 10 excepting Chapel. I then went to Stopford for 1/2 an hour and then to Hamilton and shall now soon go to bed. They have been tolling minute bell at St. Marys all day, and in the evening they ring muffled bells, as this is the burial day of the Princess. It sounded really very melancholy in my room. ( 8 hours besides Chapel)

Thursday Nov. 20. I went to lectures and to Smyth's, at 12 to Evans; at 1/2 past one I went to the tennis court expecting to see Scroope Davis play but he was not there. At 2 till 3 I played myself. Then I came home intending to dine in Hall having been engaged to wine with Broadhead. But Harford asked me to dine, so I put off Broadhead, and after Chapel went to Harford where I met Hamilton, Brimmer, and Western who had my rooms before I came here. It was the best dinner I have seen here yet and was very pleasant. Western seems a good fellow enough, and is a great friend of Hamiltons and Harfords. I came home with Hamilton at 1/2 past
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eleven and have read till 2. ( 8 hours and half besides Chapel)

Friday Nov. 21. I read from 8 this morning, went to lectures; at 11 to Smyths. At 12 I went to the Divinity lecture room, but came back again, it being too late. I went to Evans at 1. I played at tennis from 3 to 4, and spent some time with Bridgeman. I then came home. After Chapel I went and dined at Hamiltons, with Thynne, Harford, Western, Arcedeckne, Brimmer and Stopford. It was a very pleasant dinner.

Cambridge Nov. 22. Nov 26 1817 (9)

I staid till nearly 11 and came home and read till 1/2 past 1. (9 1/2 hours)

Nov. 22 Saturday. I began reading at 8; went to lectures, to Smyths, and at 12 till 1 to Evans. At 1/2 past one I went with Bridgeman to see Scroope Davis play at tennis, and was very much pleased with it. I played from 2 till 3. Part of the time with Srewart of St. John's. I dined in Hall and afterwards I walked with Hamilton till 1/2 past 5 and so doodled away an hour and an half. I read then till Chapel, after which I returned and read till 1, except the time that Hamilton and Stopford came and staid in my room. (11 hours).

Sunday Nov. 23. This morning Bridgeman, Hibbert and Thynne breakfasted with me. We then all went to All Saints church and heard little Sharpe preach a very good sermon. I then walked with Bridgeman and Hibbert till 2. I wrote a letter to my Mother, and then went out to St. Marys. At 4 I dined at the club with Arcedeckne, Wodehouse senior, 2 Villiers, Greville, Stewart, Townsend, Murdoch, I then went to Chapel, and afterwards drank tea at Hibberts with Bridgeman, Croft senior and Hillyard. I then went with Hibbert and Bridgeman to his rooms, and then came home and wrote a long letter to Wilton.

Monday Nov. 24. I went to lectures, and then to Smyth's, and then to Divinity lectures, and to Evans till past 2. I then went out till Hall. After which I gave wine to Harford, Hibbert, Stopford, Hamilton, Fellows, and Townsend of Trinity Hall. Hibbert and Stopford stayed after the rest had gone to Chapel, and we drank tea together in Stopford's rooms. I staid till 9, and came home, but not what I can call to read, for I slept a great part of the time, and thought about different things without doing much. Tomorrow is the publick Sacrament which it is required that we should all attend, but I shall not go, for I did not know of it till today, and I do not like a publick business of that kind, as I am told too that it is carelessly administered. ( 8 hours )

Tuesday Nov. 25. There were no lectures today because of the Sacrament, which was given at 11 o'clock. I read till 1/2 past ten, and then went to Hamilton till Smyths lectures, after which I went home to go to Evans, but as he was not at home I went for half an hour with Bridgeman and Hibbert to a booksale, and got taken in, to a small amount. I then went to see Scroope Davis play at tennis, and I played myself till 3. I dined in Hall and then read till 1/2 past 8. At 9 I went to Downing to a rout given by Townsend and Gordon to about 30 men, to such Lord and Lady Cornwallis, their daughter Lady Jane and two Miss Townsends with Lord Bayning. It answered much better than I had expected. They gave dinner at first to a small party, and then at 9, all the rest came in. We then played at cards, two round games, and one whist party till supper where we sat down at different times. Bridgeman and
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Murdoch sang songs, each of them. We went away at 1/2 past twelve. (8 hours)

Wednesday Nov 26. I breakfasted with Brecknock and Graham; went to both lectures and to Smyths; and to Divinity lectures, then to Evans till 2. I had engaged the tennis court but was too late for it. I dined in Hall and read till 1/2 past 6. Then Harford, Hamilton, and Stopford drank tea with me. I then went with Stopford,

Cambridge -Nov. 27 – Dec. 1 1817
and had some coffee at Hibberts, with Drewe also. Then we all walked to Downing, to a second party of Townsends and Gurdons. I got acquainted with Lady Jane who is a pleasant girl. I won a pool at Commerce, and came back after one with Stopford, Hibbert, and Bridgeman, in whose rooms we stopped a little while. Pratt, Drewe, and Murdoch were made to sing at supper, and altogether it was rather unsuccessful, as being exactly a repetition of last night. ( 8 hours ).

Thursday Nov. 27. I went to lectures and Smyths, then to Evans till 1/2 past one. I then went to see Sheridan who is rather low from the late loss of his Mother and brother. I then staid with Thynne and Drewe till after 3, and read till I dressed before Chapel. I went to dine with Hibbert, and met Bridgeman, Thynne, Croft, Wodehouse, Townsend, Drewe, Villier, Hilliard, Earle and Cowell. We played at vingt un and whist, and I went away at 1/2 past eleven. ( 6 1/2 hours).

Friday Nov. 28. This morning I did not wake till ten, so I missed both lectures. But I went to Smyths and Divinity lectures, and at 1 to Evans. At 3 I set off on horseback to Hildersham where I dined, and came back by 1/2 past twelve, having been about an hour and a quarter on the road. The only stranger there was Mr. Lascelles, Blomfields curate at Chesterford. Mrs. Blomfield is better, as they say. ( 4 hours )

Saturday Nov. 29. It is very extraordinary that this morning I again did as yesterday in not waking till 10. I went to Smyths and then to Evans, and then stayed at home till 2. After, I walked about with Brecknock and Stopford. I dined in Hall and joined with Professor Monk where I met Hustler, Graham, Brecknock, Hamilton, Bulwer, Burdon, Wilberforce, Gurdon, Romilly and another. I went to Chapel and drank tea alone, and read till 1. ( 9 hours ).

Sunday Nov. 30. I went to Chapel, and breakfasted with Hibbert alone. I then went to All Saints with him to the same pew as the two Villiers and Thynne. I then walked in Kings Walks with Hibbert and Bridgeman. I lunched with them and Hamilton at the club. And went to St. Marys and to Kings Chapel. I then came home, and after our Chapel, went to dine with Brecknock. Lord Camden with Fanny and Georgiana Pratt were there, also Graham, Bridgeman, Hamilton and Wodehouse. Lord Camden etc staid till past eleven, and Bridgeman, Graham and I till past twelve. The Bridgeman and I went and walked up and down our cloisters till we found it past the half hour after 1. I then went to bed. I like him extremely. He has some foibles wn kata anthropon < GREEK >, but very much counterpoised by excellency.

Monday Dec. 1. I went to lectures, to Smyths, and Divinity lectures also, then to Evans. Then I played at tennis, partly with Pratt. Brecknock came there to ask me again to dinner, so I came –
< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES > ( 10 cont.) back till 5, when I dressed and went to him at 1/2 past 5. There were Lord Camden and two daughters, Fortescue, Townsend, Pratt, Thynne, Broadhead, Monk and John Brown. Hamilton and Graham came in the evening. We played at Commerce and whist. It has been raining almost the whole day, without stopping. ( 6 1/2 hours ).

-Cambridge- Dec. 2. Dec. 7. 1817- (11)

Tuesday Dec. 2. I did not get up this morning till 9 from oversleeping myself, but I went to Peacock. I do not succeed so well in algebra as in Euclid, but I must therefore fag at it harder. I went to Smyths, and after 12 I went with Lord Camden etc to see Dr. Clarkes Blowpipe. At 2 I went to Evans, and then I sat at home till I dressed to dine with Lord Camden at 1/2 5 at the Sun. I came back at 1/2 10, but I locked myself out of my room, and lost 1/2 an hour in getting the key from Turner, and waiting for it in Stopfords room. I then read till 1. Only Townsend, Pratt and Brecknock dined with us at the Inn. (8 hours reading).

Wednesday Dec. 3. I went to lectures, to Smyths and to Divinity. Then to Evans, then to tennis, where I had to play with Heathcote very unwillingly, but I would not let our acquaintance go farther. I then lunched at the Bird and Baby, and came home to read till 1/2 past 6. Lord Camden came to see my rooms during that time. I went to evening Chapel, I then at 7 went to dine with Bridgeman, and met Hibbert, Croft, Murdoch, and Fyatt. It was a very pleasant dinner. I played at whist with Hibbert, Croft and Fyatt, and at eleven came to Brecknock after supper and took leave of the Pratts. I then came home and sat up till 1/2 past 2. ( 8 hours and 1/2 ).

Thursday. I went to lectures, and Smyths, at 12 to Evans. We dined in Hall at 1/2 past 2; as it is a feast day for the first audit day, Bridgeman dined with the Dean there. We went into Combination, after which I read till Chapel. After it Hamilton and Brecknock drank tea with me. Bridgeman came afterwards, and sat talking for some time. Monk talked to me today of sitting for an University Scholarship, which will be decided on the 28th. of January. This had never entered my head. However, he made me speak to Evans and write to Blomfield about it. ( 9 1/2 hours ).

Friday Dec. 5. I was too late for Evans lecture, but went to Peacocks, Smyths and Divinity. I then went to Evans, and walked about alone. I went and spoke to Monk about this scholarship, and he seems in earnest with me, that it is to be tried for. And that I should stay up the vacation, and take his advice about reading for it. I expect Blomfields answer tomorrow, and if he advises me to sit, I must of course stay here. But I hope he will not. For I have reason for going in Northamptonshire for some time at least, and I should hate to expose myself. At 1/2 < OMISSION > I dined with Fortescue and met Bridgeman, Fyatt, Palk, Eden, Stopford, Fellowes, and Hibbert. At ten I went on with Fyatt and Stopford to sup with Long. We met Tayler, Cowill, Geryther, Lloyd. Mr. G. Brown, Stevenson, Sheridan, and Broadhead. I came away at 12 and sat in Stopfords room for 1/2 and hour then came home. ( 7 1/2 hours ).

Saturday Dec. 6. I went to lectures, and to Smyths, then I was with Evans till 2. I then walked till Hall, after which I read till Chapel at 6. I drank tea at Harfords with Stopford and – -< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

( 11 cont.)

Hamilton, and came home at 9, from which time I read till 1/2 past 2. ( 13 hours ). Sunday Dec. 7. This morning I went to Chapel, and breakfasted with Hibbert, as also Bridgeman and Stopford. We went to All Saints but Sharpe did not read or preach. After that Bridgeman, Hibbert and I walked in Kings Piece and about the Town. We went to St. Marys at three. Sharpe preached there, then to Kings Chapel. At 1/2 past 4 Bridgeman, Hibbert, Stopford, Thynne and the Villiers dined at the club. Bridgeman, Stopford and I went to wine with

(12) -Cambridge- -Dec. 8. Dec. 15 1817

Hibbert after dinner till Chapel. After which I came home and read till past twelve. ( 6 hours ).

Monday Dec. 8. I went to lectures, and to Smyths; then I went to see the brain dissection in the anatomy school by Clarke. I then went to Evans till past 1/2 past 2. I went to Bridgemans rooms and dined in Hall, and went to wine with Hodson. There were there, Bridgeman, Thorpe, Sedgwick, Kean. Romilly senior, Lodge, and two others whom I did not know. I came home at 1/2 past 6 and read not very hard , till past 2, except that Hamilton came to me about 7, and I went to hear his declamation which he is to speak on Wednesday. ( 12 hours ).

Tuesday Dec. 9. I had a letter from Blomfield this morning advising me not to sit for the Scholarship, but I went over there and he then changed his mind as I have laid my plans for it. I was too late for Evans lecture, but went to Peacocks, but not to Smyths, for I went to Hildersham at 1/2 past eleven. Coming back I met Harford and Arcedeckne with whom I lengthened my ride. I dined in Hall and then wined with Evans. There were there Renouard, Lambert, Hailstone, Peacock and Graham. I went not to Chapel but drank tea with Bridgeman, so did Thynne and Hibbert. I came home by nine, and read till nearer 4 than 3. ( 8 hours).

Wednesday. I went to lectures, not to Smyths. To Evans at 12 till 2. Then I walked about till Hall. After which I read till 4 o'clock with the exception of Chapel. Hamilton and Fellows declaimed. ( 16 hours ).

Thursday Dec. 11. I went to lectures and then I went to Mr. Monk who gave me some Scholarship Examination Papers which I looked at. I began the prose with Evans at 1/2 past one. I went to take a talk with Monk, and talked about this till Hall. After which, Blomfield who was here came to my room and encouraged me by what he said. I drank tea with Stopford having missed Chapel. Knox was there, and then I read till 2, but I shall not be in bed till near 4, which is too late to continue I fear. ( 13 hours ).

Friday Dec. 12. I went to lectures and then to Evans at 11, as Graham is gone who used to have that hour. At 1/2 past one I walked with Stopford and Barnardiston. I went into Hall and wined with Hamilton, where I met Brecknock, Tayler, Fielding, Hornby and Gooch. After that I went to Chapel and then read till 4. ( 13 hours ). Saturday Dec. 13. I went to lectures for the last time this term. At 11 I went to Evans till one. I read till 1/2 past 2, and then walked about till Hall. After which I read till 1/2 past two –

< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >
( 12 cont.) excepting Chapel and a visit from Bridgeman in the evening. ( 14 hours ).

Sunday Dec. 14. I went into Chapel and then into breakfast at Bridgemans with Stopford, Thynne, Hibbert, Villiers and Stuart. I then went to All Saints, and afterward walked about with Bridgeman and others. We went to lunch in Thynnes rooms. I went to dine with Fortescue in Magdalen Hall, with Stopford. I came back to Chapel, and then went to drink tea with Croft and a large party of strangers. I came home and wrote letters or read till 12, but fell asleep, so as not to be in bed till near three.

Monday Dec. 15. I breakfasted with Hamilton to meet Harford and 2 brothers, and Taylor. I then went to Evans. At 12 I went with Bridgeman and Sharpe to see the round church. I read then till near Hall. Thynne dined there with me. I wined with Barnardiston, and met Hamilton, Stopford, and Broadhead. Went to Chapel and had Hamilton to tea. ( 8 hours ).

-Cambridge-

-Dec. 16 – Dec. 25th. 1817-

Althorp- -(13)

Tuesday Dec. 16. This is Commemoration day at Trinity. Blomfield, Hornby and Moreton came and breakfasted with me. We all went to Chapel at 11 to hear Mr. Monk preach the regular sermon of the day, and Sheridan declaim, he got the first prise (sic) this year. His I thought much the best composition of the two. At 2 we went to dinner. Moreton came with me, Hornby with his cousin. After dinner the College prises were given out. We went for some time into Combination room, after which Moreton and I walked about till 7 when I had tea with them. At eight Blomfield, Moreton and I set off for Hildersham where I shall stay a week. Hornby goes North from Cambridge. I just read a little Aristophanes with Blomfield in the evening. ( 1 hour ).

Wednesday Dec. 17. I began reading at 8 till 1/2 past 3, except breakfast. Then I walked with Moreton till dinner at 5. After dinner I read again till 1/2 12 excepting tea. Moreton and Somerset went away this evening; John Hyde in the morning. ( 12 hours ).

Thursday Dec. 18. We breakfasted at 1/2 past 8, after which George Blomfield and Abbott went away. I then read either alone or with Blomfield till 2, when we went to dine with Mr. Monk at Cambridge. We met Mr. Smith the member, Mr. Bennet, Prime, Crawley, Chambers, Amos, Hughes, Serjeant Treer. I went home then and read for a little while in my room. ( 7 hours ).

Friday Dec. 19. Blomfield and I breakfasted in my rooms. At 10 we set off back to Hildersham. I read till 1/2 past 3 when Mr. Blomfield (the Father) Monk, and Hughes came to dinner. I stayed with them till 10 then I read till bed time about 2 hours. ( 5 1/2 hours ).

Saturday Dec. 20. Mr. Blomfield senior slept here last night. He breakfasted with us and then went away. I read all day from 9 till 1/2 past 4, Blomfield having gone to Chesterford. We dine at 5, after dinner I read till 12, except tea at 8, but I cannot read so well here as at Cambridge. ( 12 hours ).

Sunday Dec. 21. I went to church here at Hildersham. Mr. Godwin read. I then rode over to Chesterford, and went to evening church there. Blomfield had gone to do duty there both times. We dined at 1/2 past 5 and I began reading about 10. ( 4 hours ). 18 years old today. Monday Dec. 22. I read till 2, except breakfast, then went out an hour, came home and read till dinner. In the evening I went on till 1/2 past 2 except drinking tea. ( 12 hours ). < DIARY PAGE CONTINUES > ( 13 cont.)

Tuesday Dec. 23. I read till 4 excepting breakfast. Then I dressed to go to Mr. Tafects to dine with Blomfield. There were several other people there. At 8 I set off to Cambridge, and sent in my latin letters to the examiners for the Scholarship. I slept at the Sun after sitting for an hour with Bridgeman.

Wednesday Dec. 24. I set off in the Northampton coach from Cambridge, and got home about 4. Bridgeman came with me to Sir George Gunnings. Fremantle came to Althorp too from Oxford today. We found here Mr. Grenville, the Lyttletons, Bessboroughs, Duncannons, Abercrombies, Clifford, Fred Ponsonby, Georgiana Pratt, the Duke of Devonshire, and several children. I read some Mitford at bedtime. ( 3 hours ).

Thursday Dec. 25. Christmas day. I went to church with the greater part of our set, and took the Sacrament. After which Duncannon, Mr. Abercrombie, his son, Fremantle, Clifford and I walked to Harlston. Mr. Rose came and went to evening Chapel. We played at Rockett in the evening.

(14)- -Althorp- -Dec. 26th. 1817 – Jan. 4th. 1818 –
Cambridge I went upstairs for an hour in the evening, and read again when I went to bed. ( 3 hours ).

Friday Dec. 26. At 11 we all went to shoot in Nobottle Wood, and having good sport we came home about 4, but I only got 1/2 and hour reading. In the evening I retired at 10.

Saturday Dec. 27. The Abercrombies and the Duke of Devonshire went away this morning. Fremantle and I went at 11 to skate which we did till 2. We then came home and found Charles Ross who had come over from Horton. After that Fremantle, Clifford and I went out walking till 1/2 past 4. Then Fremantle and I sat talking till dressing time when Bridgeman came over from Sir George Gunnings to dine here. In the evening we played at Pope Joan. I retired at about 12, and I sat with Bridgeman for an hour talking, and read actually nothing.

Sunday Dec. 28. I walked to Church with Duncannon, Bridgeman and Fremantle, after which we some of us went to the Kennel. I then went to walk on the Northampton road with Duncannon and Clifford. Mr. Rose gave us chapel at 5 and dined with us. After dinner we played at Rockets. I then came upstairs and read about an hour till Fremantle came, and sat talking with me a long time.

Monday Dec. 29. We went to shoot in the park and Blackthorn Spinney, and did not come in till late. In the evening, Pope Joan.

Tuesday Dec. 30. It rained in the morning, but at 11 we went to shoot at Harlestone. The Tierneys came today, so in the evening we played at billiards. Young Tierney affects much more than he used to do, but is very clever. Fremantle sat with me an hour talking, and we went to bed about 1. ( no reading!!).

Wednesday Dec. 31. We went this morning to shoot at Dallington. Mr. Andrew was there. Stanhope, Fremantle and I came home on foot together. Fremantle went this evening to Northampton in order to take the coach tomorrow to London. He is a very nice fellow indeed. My Father and Mother both like him very much.

1818
Thursday Jan. 1. New years day. My Father, Stanhope and I shot in Chincwell spinney. I killed a woodcock for the first time in my life. Stanhope then went away. Sir James Mackintosh and a little boy of his came today. I retired before 10 and read in my room till 1/2 past 2, but I went to sleep part of the time. ( 5 hours ).

Friday Jan. 2. 1818. About eleven this morning I left Althorp in the carriage to Northampton. My Father was with me till Dallington where I dropped him to shoot. I went to Mr. Kerrs where I saw Sir –
< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >
( 14 cont.) Humphry and Lady Davy. I set off from thence about 2, in the coach and got to Cambridge about 10. I went and sat an hour with Hibbert, and then came to my room and read a little journal. ( 1 1/2 hours ).

Saturday Jan. 3. I read till 2. Then I went to sit with Hibbert till Hall. Mr. Cummin was the only person I knew at our table. I then read till past 12. ( 11 hours ).

Sunday Jan. 4. I went to Chapel, then I breakfasted with Hibbert. I went with him to church at All Saints. We then walked with Cowel, whom we met, till 3 when I heard Blomfield preach at St. Mary's. I missed seeing him tho'! We went to Kings Chapel and found Palk there. We then dined with Drewe at the Eagle, after which we went to Chapel and drank tea in my room. I then read Paley till I went to bed.

-Cambridge – -Jan. 5 – Jan 17 1818- (15)

Monday Jan. 5. 1818. I was not dressed this morning till 11. After which Blomfield came to me about 12. I went out with him and passed on to Hibbert where I staid till 1/2 past 1, when I returned till Hall. I then walked for a quarter of an hour, and read till past 12. ( 11 hours ).
Tuesday Jan. 6. I went on reading till near 2. Then I walked about till Hall by myself. After Hall I went out a little and then read till 2. ( 12 1/2 hours)

Wednesday Jan. 7. I read from 11 till 1/2 past 2. Then I walked till Hall, after which I walked half an hour with Hibbert, and then read till near 3. ( 13 hours ).

Thursday Jan. 8. I read till 1/2 past 1, and then went riding with Hibbert and Palk. I got a fall with my horse in Parkers piece, so I went and changed him, and we went towards the hills. After Hall I walked a little alone and read till past three, but I went to sleep for some time. ( 11 hours ).

Friday Jan. 9. I read till 2 then walked for an hour on the Trumpington road alone. After Hall I took a short walk. ( 12 hours and 1/2 ).

Saturday Jan 10. At 1/2 past one I rode with Hibbert, Romilly and Cowel to Madinglay. After Hall a walk for 1/2 an hour with Hibbert. ( 12 hours ).

Sunday Jan. 11. I breakfasted with Hibbert and Amos. I went to All Saints alone, then walked with Hibbert till 2. Wrote a letter. Heard Blomfield preach at St. Marys, went to Kings with both of them. I dined at the Bird and Baby with H. Went to evening Chapel, and had H. and G. Peacock to tea, who staid till 10. Then I read some Mitford and Paley.

Monday Jan. 12. Blomfield and Hustler breakfasted with me. At 11 till 12 I walked alone on the Trumpington road. I then saw Hibbert for a little while and came home to read till 4. At 1/2 past I went to dine at Hustlers, and met Blomfield, Hughes, Peacock, Holme of Emmanuel, and Dr. Haveyland. I played one rubber at whist and came away at 9, when I read till 3. ( 10 hours ).

Tuesday Jan. 13. I went out about 2 to walk and met Pratt who came at 7 to drink tea with me. I dined in Hall and walked a little with Hibbert. Before Hall I walked some time with Cowell. ( 11 hours ).

Wednesday. I went out about 1/2 past 1 expecting to ride with Hibbert, but he was not at home. I walked again with Pratt whom I met. ( 12 hours ).
< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

-(15 cont.) Thursday Jan. 15. I went out riding with Hibbert to Shelford. He was seized with a palpitation at the heart, and so we were obliged to return slowly, and got too late for Hall. He soon recovered and we dined at the Bird and Baby. I returned about 1/2 past 5. ( 11 hours ). Friday Jan. 16. At 1/2 past ten I went walking for an hour. I then read till Hall. After which I took a short walk and then read till 3. ( 13 hours ). Saturday Jan. 17. Serenitate coeli permotus ipse qui ob nimia studia (ut credo) morbem inductam ad quintam usque ad septimam horam in apertum prodii. Hoc die in Senatu Hibbert aliique equalis concertationis, quae in gradum sumendum (ut praeparationes) necessariae sunt, habebant. Post prandium, semi hora cum Hibberto acta, ad studias ad octavam me tradidi horam ( 11 horae)

(16)-

-Cambridge- Jan. 18 – Jan 26 1818

Sunday Jan. 18. Hodie mecum Hibbert solus jentaculum sumpsit. Post, in ecclesiam All Saints profecti, Dominum Griffith predicantem audivimus. Dein hic illic ad sextam perambulavimus. Tunc ego in Sanctae Mariae ecclesia Blomfield disertissime disserentem audivi. – Collegium Regalis ecclesiae pro more sabbatorum adii. Deinde apud tabernam, cum, Hibbert, Fiott, Romilly, et Cowell, coenavi. Post nostram Trinitatis ecclesiam, apud Hibbertum, tea bibendi causa Dom Griffeth, Amos, Fortescue, Hildyard, vidi, quartam circiter, domum profectus, in nonam praecipue historiae studui.

Monday Jan. 19. In Senatu hodie mathematicae incipiunt exercitationes. Quintam circiter horam cum Hibberto perambulavi, cui non fortuna mane quidem irriserat, postea vero meliore successu usus est. XImanae vidit hora Hildersham cum Blomfieldio profectum. Post coenam Aeschyli tragedium cum eo perlegere incepi, circiter octavam in thalamum recessi. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Jan. 20. Per totum diem usque ad coenae tempus studui una solum hora excepta qua solus perambulavi. ( 10 hours ).

Wednesday Jan. 21. Eodem modo, quo novissimum diem peregi hoc quoque usus sum. Nisi quod circiter octavam Chesterford equo vectus ivi, quod ad coenam tempus occupavit. ( 9 hours ).

Thursday Jan. 22. Hodie cum Blomfieldio Cantabrigiam redii. Ille quidem in divintatis schola disserere volebat. In aula publica coenavi, deinde apud Hibbertum, cum Fortescue et Hildyard, tea bibi, et paululum cum illis ludi. ( 8 hours ) Friday Jan. 23. Mane solus perambulavi. Deinde ad coenam studui, antequam Blomfieldius postremam mihi admonitionem dedit. ( 12 hours ).

Saturday Jan 24. Hodie nihil sane ante coenam feci, quod dies erat in quo gradus in Senatu conferebantur. Lefevre, primus sui anni fuit, quod mihi e duabus rebus gaudium dedit, quod Trintatis alumnus est, et quondam Etonensis fuit. In Vespero patrem meum paululum vidi, qui in Norfolkium venatum proficiscitur.

Sunday Jan. 25. Apud Hibbertum jentavi, pater ejus et frater cum illo erant. Jucundissimus ille senex; hic maximae spei juvenis, causarum studiosus. Ad ecclesiam All Saints solus ivi. Deinde in crastinam exercitationem studii. post nostram ecclesiam apud Hibbert coenavi unde redii circiter quartam horam.

Monday Jan. 26. Today began our examinations for the Scholarship. I breakfasted with Cowell a little after 8, and met Hall and Lloyd. We went to Lonsdale of Kings at 9. He set us some Claudian and some Pliny to translate into English prose. At 2 we came out, and -< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

( 16 cont.) I went to the Pepysian library with Hibbert and his party. I dined with Lloyd, and met Lefevre, Stainforth, Hall and Calvert. We went in again to do some verses out of a sonnet of Gray, and came out at nine. Then I went to play at whist with Hibbert and

-Cambridge- -Jan. 27. Feb. 1. 1818- (17)

Fortescue, Brougham, and the -Hildyards.

Tuesday Jan. 27. At ten we went to Ward of Trinity and did verses on Des primos versibus annos. We staid till 2. I then walked with Fortescue whom I happened to meet, and went to Hall. At 8 I went to Fortescue, and played at whist with him, Fiott, Crawley and Hibbert.

Wednesday Jan. 28. I went to breakfast with Hall, and met Stainforth. We then went to Clare hall where the vice Chancellor gave us theme to do upon, nil actum reputant, si quid superesset agendum. We came out at one. At 4 I went to dine with Hughes at Emmanuel. I met Hall, Bennett, Okes, Matthews, and Forster. We went out to Webbe again at 6, and had some English set us to turn into Latin prose. I sat then an hour with Hibbert.

Thursday Jan. 29. At 1/2 past nine we went to Tatham who gave us a Chorus of Trachiniae, and a bit of the dialogue, to turn all into English, and the former part into Aleuias. At 6 we had a bit of the Odyssey to translate, after which I went to play at whist with Hibbert, Thynne, Hildyard and Griffith.

Friday Jan. 30. We went to Turton of Rath. Hall at ten, but I overslept myself, and did not get there till 1/2 past. We had a little Thucydides, and some Plato to do, which took us till 2.

Saturday Jan. 31. We went to Turton again. He gave us English prose to turn into Greek prose, and verse into Greek Iambic. This went on for 6 hours, after which I went and dined alone at the Bird, and went to wine with Hibbert, Stainforth and the Hildyards. I went home to read for Monday, but I found Hornby who had come to my room and was going to have dinner, on account of Mrs. Blomfield having fallen ill. Wherefore he had come over to get him someone to preach for tomorrow, and Stopford and Barnardiston also came this evening to me.

Sunday Feb. 1. Hibbert and Hildyard breakfasted with me, with the former I went to All Saints, after which I walked with him and Fox till about 2. I went to St. Marys and heard Monk, afterwards to Kings. I sat from five to six with Fortescue, and at 7 I dined at the Club, and staid there till 10. There were 11 other club men there.

(18) -Cambridge- -Feb. 2. Feb. 18. 1818

London

Monday Feb. 2. Today Hall breakfasted with me; after which we went in to Ward for the question paper at 10 o'clock; it was not a difficult one; but we staid till nearly 3 with it. I dined in Hall. After it Hibbert and Hildyard came and drank a bottle of wine with me. I then read till 1.

Tuesday Feb. 3. I went to both lectures, which began yesterday, and found myself very much thrown back in mathematics, not having looked at any for two months. I passed some of the morning with Hibbert who was packing up, and I went to sit with Hildyard a little while before Hall. I went to Chapel, and then drank tea with Hibbert and the two Hildyards. We went to sup at the club at 9 where all our number but 5 were assembled. At 11 Hibbert and I got up; he to leave Cambridge for good!! I for a few days. We went then to town in a post chaise with Rose. Hibbert stopped at Walton Cross and rode on the next day.

Wednesday Feb. 4. I got to Town at about 1/2 past 8. I breakfasted with my Father and Mother; after that I went out visiting or shopping nearly till dinner, which was at 6. Mr. Dibdin was there. Nannette came in the evening, and we had a game of whist.

Thursday Feb. 5. Hibbert called at 12 o'clock and we went walking about for different purposes till 4 when I went to Mr. Waite. We saw Bridgeman who is coming to Cambridge in about a week or ten days. Mr. Grenville, Sir James Mackintosh, Lord and Lady Georgina Morpeth, Duncannon, Lady Duncannon, and Mr. Rogers dined with us. After dinner we went first to Drury Lane then to Covent Garden. I walked home about 12.

Friday Feb. 6. This morning I went out at 1/2 past 8 to breakfast with Hibberts brother at Lincoln Inn which is near the Cambridge coach office in Fetter Lane. George Hibbert and Croft were there. Croft and I set off at 9 and got to Cambridge at 4. I then heard of the melancholy fate of Dundas, who was frozen to death last night while drunk, a dreadful warning to others. It is remarkable that he was very intimate with Maitland. I dined with Hildyard, his brother, and the 2 Crofts at 5 o'clock, and played a rubber at whist. I then came and read. ( 2 hours and 1/2 ).

Saturday Feb. 7. I went to both lectures, and at 12 to Evans. I then went out till Hall with Brecknock. I wined at Stopfords with Greville and Knox. I was too late to get into Chapel, so I went straight to Brecknocks where I drank tea, and played at whist with him, Gurdon, Fox and Pratt. Townsend came in afterwards. I came home and then read till past three but with intervals of sleep. ( 8 hours ).
< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

( 18 cont.)
Sunday Feb. 8. I went to morning Chapel, and then breakfasted with Brecknock and Pratt. I then went to All Saints, and then walked about with Fiott till 2, when I went into Hall. I after this came home and wrote letters to Bridgeman

-Cambridge- -Monday Feb. 9. – Feb. 15. 1818-

(19)
and Fremantle; till Chapel nearly. I drank tea with Stopford alone and then came home to read.

Monday Feb. 9. I went to Peacocks lecture; and to Evans at 12. After him I walked with Hildyard till 2, and then read. I went at 5 to dine with Neville at Magdalene; Brecknock went with me, and we found Monk, Fortescue and Crawley. There were there Lady Charlotte Neville, and Lady Glynn, sister to Neville. I had not seen him for several years, and thought him very agreeable. I came home at 11. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Feb. 10. I went to Peacocks lecture and to Evans at 12. I dined out and then went with Thynne and Greville to the tennis court, where I played a little. After Chapel Stopford drank tea with me. ( 8 hours ).

Wednesday Feb. 11. I found myself too late this morning for either lecture, but went to Evans at 12. I went out and walked with Stopford, Thynne, Fiott, Palk and Knox at different times, and went to see Sheridan. I dined with Evans, Lloyd, Tayler and Stevenson at 1/2 past 4. I went to Chapel but returned again till 9 when I went to whist at Fiotts, with Stopford, Fortescue, and Palk. I came back at 12, and caught cold from having no fire in my room. ( 5 hours ).

Thursday Feb. 12. There was Sacrament in Chapel, but I did not attend. I went at 12 to Clarkes lectures, which I liked very much. I went to Farishs directly after Hall. After them I went to Chapel. I then read till late. ( 9 hours ).

Friday Feb. 13. I went to both lectures and to Evans. At 1 I went out with Thynne and sat in his room till nearly 3. I then dined in Hall and went to Farishs lecture, went to Chapel and then read till one. ( 11 hours).

Saturday Feb. 14. I went to both lectures and to Clarkes at 12, and to Evans at 1. I went out about 1/2 2, and strolled about with Villiers, Greville etc. After Hall I came in; but read very badly. I went to Chapel. A little before ten I went to sup with Thynne, and met Brecknock, Townsend, Murdoch, Gurdon, Stopford, Fox. We staid till 12, and I then came home and went to bed. ( 9 hours ).

Sunday Feb. 15. I went to Chapel, and then went to breakfast with Brecknock, Graham, Pratt, and Stopford. I went to All Saints, and then walked about with the Villiers, Thynne and Stopford, till 2; from 2 to near 3 with Croft; till St. Marys with Mr. Neville, Fortescue and Palk. I went to St. Marys and then to Kings with Croft and Hamilton, who came last night. I then dined at the Bird with Croft and Hildyard; went to Chapel, and then gave tea to Croft, Hildyard, Fortescue, Fiott-
London and Wimbledon March 19 Mar. 25.

1818 2 H (25)
from us gone. I had seen him yesterday before. I dined comfortably with Lady Helton, Sarah and Sir George Burgman, who is a guest of theirs, and came back after ten. ( 0 ).

Thursday Mar. 19. I went to Fleet street this morning, to pay bills etc., and walked about all the day for different purposes. Nannette came after dinner and we played a rubber at whist. ( 0 ).

Friday Mar. 20. I went to church with my Father and Mother at St. Jamess, and heard Dr. Andrew preach. I then went with my Mother to Chantreys, where my Father is sitting to have his bust taken, after which I went and walked with Thynne and Hibbert. The Vernons and Georgiana Bingham, the Lytteltons, Mr. Rogers and Mr. Heber dined with us. They did not all go till near eleven. ( 0 ).

Saturday Mar. 21. Today I went to Wimbledon with Nannette at 2 o'clock. My Father had gone before. I saw Sarah and Lady Charlotte Neville before I went. It was a dull and rainy day, but Wimbledon looked as usual. We dined at 1/4 after 6 and played at whist in the evening. ( 0 ).

Easter Sunday Mar. 22. Today I went to church and took the Sacrament with my Father and Mother in Wimbledon church. Mr. Lindsey is curate there. I then walked over to Roehampton and saw Lady Duncannon. Duncannon was just coming over to us, and so I walked back with him. I was reading Emma, a novel by Miss Austen in the evening, and like it very much indeed.

Monday Mar. 23. I walked over to Battersea after breakfast to see Mr. Allen, and sat with him an hour. I had a long and satisfactory talk about Cambridge, and find that his ideas are such as I should wish about it, which is of great importance to me, for he influences my Father completely. We played at whist in the evening. ( 0 ).

Tuesday Mar. 24. I went back to Town with Nannette today, in her carriage. I then went to see Sarah and the rest of them, and dined at home. The Vernons, and Georgiana Bingham were there too. We went together to the play and saw Rob Roy, which is very well brought up. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Mar. 25. I went round to all my relations after breakfast. At 1 I went and lunched with Neave, whom I have not seen since I left Eton. I then set off with him in a coach to Oxford where I arrived at about 12 at night. I came to pass a day or two with Wilton and Fremantle, and to settle with him a scheme we have for the long vacation.

(26)
Oxford Mar. 26. Mar.29 1818 Thursday Mar. 26.
I am lodging here at Oxford in the rooms of Strutt, a G. C. of Oriel, close to the gate of that college, and therefore near Canterbury. At 1/2 past 9, Wilton and Fremantle came to me, and took me to Wiltons rooms in Duckwater to breakfast. Afterwards we went to the Bodleian and other places till 4, when I dined in Christ Church Hall, with Wilton. Lord Brudenell took in Fremantle. At the noblemens table there were besides Lord Clarince, Twisleton, Hamilton, and Mr. Trevor. We three wined alone, after which Wilton dressed and set off with us to a party at Dr. Marlows, the president of St. Johns. Fremantle and I returned, and sat the rest of the evening at Oriel.

Friday Mar. 27. We breakfasted today at Fremantles, after which I paid some visits, went sailing for some time in a boat belonging to Wilton, Fremantle, and Denison, and played a little at tennis. We then at 5 o'clock dined at Sadlers the cooks, answering to our John Litchfield. Wilton left us again to dress for Mrs. Marlows, and Fremantle and I, having met him when going, walked with him to St. Johns, and then came and sat at home till 12.

Saturday Mar. 28. We breakfasted at Fremantles again, and so did Baring. At 1 F. left us to go and see Lord Nugent at Lilies. Wilton and I played at billiards etc., till 5 when I went to dine tete atete with Dr. Cole of Exeter. At ten I went and lost my money at cards in Wiltons rooms. There were four tables. Some of the guests were Latouche, Brown, Stanley, Twisleton, Hamilton, Denison, Gower, Childers, all Etonians, and besides them, Lord Landon, Mr. Trevor, Sir James Ramsay, Sir Roger Griesley, Miss Labouchere, Corbett etc. They played high, and I do not like the kind of party so well as those at Cambridge.

Sunday Mar. 29. I went to morning Chapel at Christ Church, and then to breakfast with the two Neaves. I then went to Wilton and walked with him as much as the rain would allow. I went again to evening Chapel at 3. Wilton got Smith, one of the Canons, to take me into their seats. We then went to Hall, where also Lord Titchfield and Mr. Gambier dined, besides others named above.I then walked some time with Ross and Vivian in High Street, and then wined with Latouche at 1/2 past 6. Wilton and I went to New College Chapel where the music was very fine, then we walked in High Street for a good while, and after that sat in his room till I took leave of him about 10.

Mar. 30. April 5. 1818 (27) Monday Mar. 30.

I left Oxford at 6 o'clock by the Oxford and Cambridge coach and arrived at Cantab about 8. I passed through Aylesbury which I had not seen since I left Dunton, and a horrible place it looked, to be sure. I went straight to Fortescues rooms at Magdalene, and sat with him till nearly twelve. I then came home to bed. Tuesday Mar. 31. I got up about 9 and read till 2 when Fortescue came to me, and we walked about together till Hall. After it I met Hildyard and walked about a little while with him. I came home about 5 and read till near 12. ( 11 hours ).

Wednesday Ap. 1. I got up at 8 and read till 1/2 past one, having gone to Evans at 11. I then walked with Fortescue till Hall. After Hall I went out and met Moreton who was on his road to Hildersham. I walked about with him for some time, and at 6 began reading till 12. ( 10 hours ).

Thursday Ap. 2. I got up at ten and went to Evans at 11. I went and walked with Fox at 2, dined in Hall, and walked after it by myself for some time. I then came in and read till 12. ( 10 hours ).

Friday Ap. 3. I did not get up till 11. The reason is that I overslept myself, from not being quite well. I went to Evans directly, and at 2 went out with Fox and Pratt who came to my room. We met Brecknock who was just come up for a day before going abroad, which he intends soon to do. He is to be on an embassy with Lord Steward to Vienna. At 3 I came in and read till 5, and then went to dine at the Bird and Baby with Brecknock, Fox, Pratt, and Gurdon. After which we came and dined in my room, and had tea, and then played at whist till 10. ( 6 hours ).

Saturday Ap. 4. I got up at 7 !! and took a black dose which has done me a great deal of good already. At ten I went to Fox to breakfast with Brecknock, Pratt, and Gurdon. I then came to Evans and staid till 1. I then walked with him in the Round about for a little while, and then by myself. I dined in Hall and read after it till 12. ( 11 hours ).

Sunday. I went to Morning Chapel, and then breakfasted with Hildyard. I went to All Saints, and then walked with Wynne. I dined in Hall, and went to St. Marys where Hughes preached; I then came home and wrote a letter. I went to Chapel at six, and read Paley the rest of the evening.
heard from Monk lately that Blomfields last child is dead. B. himself is not much dejected by it, as the child always has been sickly, and it is better that it should die now than in a year or two perhaps.

(28) Cambridge. Ap. 6. Apr. 11. 1818.

Monday Apr. 6. I got up at 8 and went to lectures, both to Evans and to Peacocks; the first of this term. I went to Evans at 12. After which I walked about by myself, and with Fox. I came in at 4 and read till 6, when I went to dine with Hamilton, and met his Father, Fox, Gilpin of Christs, Hustler and Peacock. I came home at ten and read two or three hours altogether. ( 9 hours ).

Tuesday Apr. 7. I went to both lectures, and then to Evans. I did not go out before Hall, but I was lazy for part of the time, being quite put out of sorts by the weather which was shocking. I went into Hall, and then walked in the Cloisters with Hildyard who came and sat a little while with me drinking wine. I then read till bed time. ( 10 hours ).

Wednesday Apr. 8. I got up at 7 and went to both lectures. At 11 I went to see Hamilton take his degree in the Senate House, and to hear Tatham make a speech about it. This did not take place till 1, so that all that time was clean lost. I was not able to go to Evans as I had engaged a boat at Sapsfords. I went there and rowed first down and then up the stream by myself for near an hour, after which I came home and read till 6 when I went to dine with Crawley. I met Neville, Fortescue, Lodge, Mr. Cavendish, Sir James Smith, Kindersley, etc. I came away about ten, without playing at whist! ( 6 hours ).

Thursday Ap. 9. I got up at 7 and went to both lectures, and to Evans at 12. At 1 I went to Magdalene to walk with Neville as agreed upon yesterday. I came out with him and Fortescue, but I and the latter afterwards went in to hear Monks Act in the Divinity schools. I dined in Hall, and then walked a little in the Cloisters, went to Chapel and read till ten only, when I went to sleep till 2 !!! ( 10 hours ).

Friday Ap. 10. I got up by 9 and went only to Peacock lectures, then at 12 to Evans. At 2 I went to Magdalene College and walked thence with Fortescue to Palks. I dined in Hall and walked a little in the cloisters with Stopford. Went to Chapel and then read till past twelve. ( 12 hours ).

Saturday Ap. 11. I got up a little before ten and went to Peacocks lecture. I went to evans about 1 and staid till 2, and then walked, 1st with Fiott, and then Villiers. I dined in Hall, and then went to wine with Stopford, Barnardiston, and Drewe till 5. I went to Chapel at 6, and then came home to read. ( 10 hours ).

Cambridge Ap. 12. Ap. 15 1818 (29)

Sunday Ap. 12. I went to Chapel, and then breakfasted with Dr. Davy of Caius and met Sir James and Lady Smith, and Mr. Hutchinson. I then went and heard Crawley preach at St. Marys, and then walked about with him, Griffith, and Fortescue. I went again to St. Marys and Hughes preached. I then went with Fortescue to dine with Griffith in Emmanuel Hall. We staid till 6 in Combination. I was introduced to Lord Henry Churchill who is lately come up to that College. He seems quite foolish. However, he chose to fix upon Fortescue and me, and went with us into our Chapel, and then to tea with Fortescue. Fiott was there luckily, and took him home early. I staid on till 12 talking with Fortescue on several subjects. I was extremely shocked today at hearing that James Hornby died last Friday, of an apoplexy. It was but a short time past that I was corresponding with him about the death of Mrs. Blomfield, and little he or I thought that he would be the next to go. The last year and half that I staid at Eton, I lived in the greatest intimacy with him, which had afterwards fallen away a little. But he was very clever and promising, and I always was fond of him. It must be a wise dispensation of Providence, and may be intended as a warning to us, in addition to those who have lately had in the deaths of Maitland and Dundas. God grant that it may be an effectual one!

Monday Ap. 13. I went to both lectures, and to Evans at 12,I then went out to Parkers piece with Fortescue and Palk. I dined in Hall, and then went with Stopford to Mr. Gromont to have my hair cut. I then came in to read. ( 11 hours ).

Tuesday Ap. 14. I went to both lectures and to Evans as usual. At 2 I set off and rode to Hildersham where I dined at 5. Blomfield was very much afflicted about Hornby, particularly as it happened so soon after his wifes death. He said that it was a bilious fever that killed him. He seems to have been extremely attached to him already, and thought him the best scholar he had ever had with him. Miss E. Blomfield is with him to keep house for him. The five other pupils were there viz. Moreton, Somerset, Abbott, John Hyde and George Blomfield, who say that they do not like Hildersham so well as Dunton. I rode home about 11 and went to bed. ( 6 hours ).

Wednesday Ap. 15. I got up at 7, went to Peacocks lecture and to Evans at 1/2 past 12. I went at 2 with Stopford in a boat, and came up about as far as Queens „ from Jesus Rice. I was too late for our Hall, so I went and dined at Magdalene with Fortescue, George Adam Browne was also there. I went into Combination and came home about 6, but I slept till 9. I then read till near 1. If this strong exercise always makes me drowsy I shall not take it any more, for this is the important term of all. ( 8 hours and 1/2).

(30) Cambridge Ap. 16 Ap. 22 1818

Thursday Ap. 16. I got up at 9. At 11 there was Chapel and Sacrament, which I attended. The Vice Master administered it; and very disgracefully he did it in some points. The Bishop had promised to come, but he did not. I dined in Hall and went to wine with Keene of Sidney, and met Elmsley, Dicken, and some others, none of whom I had ever seen before. I wish he would leave off asking me. I came home before seven to read. ( 6 hours ).

Friday Ap. 17. I went to both lectures, and to Evans at 12. At 2 I went to Parkers piece and played at crickett an hour with Thynne, H. Villiers, Fortescue, etc. I dined in Hall, and was made to go into Combination by the Vice Master. After Chapel I came and read till 12. ( 11 hours ).

Saturday Apr. 18. I went to Peacock lectures having begun reading at seven. I went to Evans at 12, after which I went out to look for Moreton who was come over from Blomfields to see me. We went with Fortescue to Parkers Piece. I took Moreton into Hall, after which, he, Fortescue, Broadhead, Barnardiston, Fiott and Eden wined with me. At 7 Fortescue, Moreton and I walked to Magdalene, after which he and I returned to the Eagle where the old Gray Pony was, and he set off back to Hildersham. I came home and read till 2. ( 10 hours ).

Sunday Ap. 19. I went to Chapel, and at ten breakfasted with the club at the Bird, and admitted Jack Moregennis. I went to All Saints, and then walked a little with the Villiers, Thynne and Stuart. I then came and wrote a letter; then went to St. Marys and then to Christs College to dine with Fox in Hall. I went also into their Combination room. I then came home to Chapel, after which I went to drink tea with Griffith and Fortescue at Emmanuel, and sat with him till 1/2 past 11.

Monday Ap. 20. I went to both lectures, and at 12 to Evans. At 1/2 past 1 I went and played at cricket on Parkers piece with Fortescue and Stuart. I dined in Hall and then read in the evening. ( 11 hours ).

Tuesday Ap. 21. I went to both lectures, and at 1/2 past 12 to Evans, and went again to play at cricket with Stuart and Fortescue. I dined in Hall, and went to wine with Hustler, and met Monk, Judgson, Evans, Mr. Gilbie, Barnardiston, Stopford, Heathcote and Long. I came to Chapel, and then came home, but slept the most part of the time, more than any former evening. ( 9 hours ).

Wednesday Ap. 22. I went to Peacocks lecture, and to Evans at 1/2 past 12. I then played at cricket till Hall with Fortescue and Crawley. I read till 8 after Hall. Then I dressed and went a little before nine to the Lodge, where the Bishop gave a ball and supper. I led the ball with Miss Mansell, and afterwards

Cambridge Ap. 23. Ap. 29. 1818 (31)

danced with two more of them, Elisa and Emily, and with a Miss Burroughes. I came away about 3 o'clock. There were there of my acquaintance, Fortescue, Griffith, Crawley, Fiott, Graham, Fielding, Beau, Monk, 2 Hustlers, 2 Peacocks, John Browne, and others. It was very well managed all through, and I enjoyed myself very much. ( 10 hours ).

Thursday Ap. 23. I got up at 9 and went to Peacocks lecture, after which I sat nearly an hour with Stopford, who is ill. I then went to Evans, after which I went out for an hour, walking with Fortescue. I dined in Hall, and then read till nearly twelve all but Chapel, and part of the time before it. I received today from Blomfield a book out of poor Hornbys collection. Mr. Hornby desired it be sent to me as a memorial of him; it was Xenophon Anabasis. ( 10 hours ).

Friday Ap. 24. I got up at 7 and went to both lectures, and to Evans, and did not go out for more than a quarter of an hour before Hall. After it I returned again and read till 3, all but chapel at 6, and a short time after dinner. ( 17 hours ).

Saturday Ap. 25. I missed Evans lecture, but went to Peacocks, and to Evans at 1. I went and walked with Griffith. I was out of sizings and commons, and so I dined at the club with Drewe at 3 o'clock. I went to chapel, and then went to drink tea with Monk, and sat with him till past 9 being explained some Mathematics to. ( 8 hours ).

Sunday Ap. 26. I went to chapel, and then to breakfast with Barnardiston. I went to All Saints, and then after writing a letter I went out and walked with Greville. I went to St. Marys, and then dined with Griffith at Emmanuel, and so did Monk. He came with me to Chapel at Trinity, after which we went to tea at Magdalene with Fortescue. At 10 I went from thence to Arcedeckne, to sup. I met Barnardiston, Broadhead, Christmas, Godfrey, Heathcote, and Brimer. I came home about 12.

Monday Ap. 27. I went to both lectures; we began Horace today with Evans, I went to him afterwards. I dined in Hall and then walked a little with Barnardiston, and came in at 5 to read. ( 12 hours ).

Tuesday Ap. 28. I went to Peacocks lecture, and then went to Evans at 12. At 2 I went out alone till Hall; after which I went by myself into the walks for some time. I then came in and read. ( 14 hours ).

Wednesday Ap. 29. I went to both lectures, and then to Evans at 12. I went out and walked a little with Griffith, and went with him to the Senate House.

(32) Cambridge Ap. 30. May 7. 1818

I went into Hall and then walked to Granchester. At 6 I came in to read. ( 11 hours ).

Thursday Ap. 30. I went to Morning Chapel as it was a surplice day. It was very rainy so I staid in till past 2, and then walked a little with Villiers. I dined in Hall and then wined with Brecknock and met Graham, Gurdon, Pratt and Townsend. I read then till 12. ( 12 hours ).

Friday May 1. I went again to Morning Chapel, and then to both lectures. I went out at 1, and after sitting a little while with Stopford, went to play at cricket, which I did for a short time, and then returned to Hall. I went to Chapel, and then Idrank tea with Brecknock. Evans was all the morning canvassing for the Woodwardian Professorship of Mineralogy, which is vacated by Hailstone, who is going to be married. Sedgwick and Gorham of Queens are the other candidates. I therefore went to him at 8 this evening. ( 10 hours ).

Saturday May 2. I went to both lectures, and then read till near two. I then went and played at cricket, and dined with Fortescue in Magdalene Hall. I then came to Chapel, and after it drank tea with Brecknock and went to Evans at 8. ( 10 hours ).

Sunday May 3. I went to Chapel, but my nose bled and I was obliged to come out again. I breakfasted alone, and as I had taken physic I went nowhere to church. I wrote some letters, and walked about with Eden. I went to St. Marys and heard Mr. Benson preach. I then went and dined in Magdalene Hall with Eden. I came to Chapel, after which Griffith and Fortescue drank tea with me.

Monday May 4. I went to Evans at 9 with Graham, as he gave no lectures because of his canvass. I then went to Peacock, and read till nearly 2. I then played at cricket till 4, and came home till 6, when I went and dined with Brecknock, and met Graham, Fox, Gurdon, and Pratt. I came home at 1/2 past 9.
( 10 hours ).

Tuesday May 5. I went to both lectures and Evans, and dined in Hall. ( 10 hours ).

Wednesday May 6. I went to lectures, and went to see a match on Parkers Piece before Hall. I returned thither again after.
( 10 hours ).

Thursday May 7. Evans had no lecture, so I went to Peacocks and went to Evans for two hours with Graham, as indeed I generally do now; dined in Hall, and read after. ( 12 hours ).

Cambridge May 8. 15. 1818. (33)

Friday May 8. I went to both lectures and to Evans, and went to see part of a match at cricket between Kings and the University, in which the former beat. I went to Hall and wined with Brecknock, with Townsend, Gurdon, Fox, Graham and Pratt. ( 12 hours ).

Saturday May. 9. I went to both lectures and Evans, and walked with Fortescue; after which I came to Hall, and then walked about a little while with little Dr. Davy behind Twin Walks. ( 10 hours ).

Sunday May 10. Barnardiston and Stopford breakfasted with me. At eleven there was Sacrament and chapel but I went to All Saints, and after that walked with Fiott. I dined in Hall and went to St. Marys where I heard the best sermon that I ever did there from Mr. Benson of Trinity. I then went to Kings Chapel with Villiers, and afterwards to our Chapel. I walked about then with Fortescue and Palk, and drank tea with Brecknock, Fox, Pratt, Gurdon, and Graham. At ten I went to supper at G. A. Brownes, and met Fortescue, Villiers, the 2 Sumners, Mr. Shrine, Mr. Miller, Attwood, and Goodbehere.

Monday May 11. I went to both lectures, and at 12 to Evans with Graham. We came out past two. I mistook it for an hour earlier, and did not go out till near Hall, and then returned. After Hall I walked a little, alone, and then read till 11. ( 11 hours ).

Tuesday May 12. I went to both lectures, and went to Evans at 12 alone. I played a little at cricket with Fortescue, Villiers and Heathcote, and went into Hall. After that I walked till 5. At 6 I went to Peacock for 3 hours with Graham and Barnardiston, and then read till 11. I went to Morning Chapel today and yesterday. ( 12 hours ).

Wednesday May 13. I got up at 7 and went to both lectures, and read till 2. I then walked with Brecknock till Hall. After Hall I went out till 5, and then came in. At 7 I went to Evans and staid till 9, and then read till 11. ( 12 hours ).

Thursday May 14. I went to both lectures, and after them I went with Graham and Barnardiston to Peacocks for a good while, to be explained Algebra to. I went then to Parkers piece and played with Hyde Villiers. I dined in Hall and walked a little after it. And I went to Evans at 7 in the evening, and staid till 9. ( 11 hours ).

Friday May 15. I went to Evans lecture as Peacocks finished yesterday. After which Graham, Barnardiston, and I again went to do Trigonometry. After which I went and played a game at cricket with Fortescue till 2. When I came home I found a card of Blomfields, whom however I could not find till just before Hall. He had got with him his 2 sisters and two pupils. ( 12 hours ).

(34) Cambridge May 16. 21. 1818

Saturday May 16. I breakfasted alone. And after it I read till 2. I then went out with different people, and dined in Hall. I then read the rest of the evening. ( 10 hours ). Average of reading this term is 10 hours and 20 minutes.

Sunday May 17. I breakfasted with Brecknock, Graham and Pratt, and then came home and read till about one. I dined in Hall at 2, and went to St. Marys to hear Benson preach. I then went to Kings Chapel, and to our own. After which I walked with Fortescue, and Palk and Griffith. I went to Fortescues rooms and sat there till twelve.

Monday May 18. Examinations began today; anniversary of my going to Eton in 1808. I went in at nine o'clock. We had an Algebra paper from Romilly to begin with. At one we came to dinner, and at 3 we went in again, and had Philoctetus viva voce with Schofield, and translations from the play into English and Latin, and some English into Greek Iambics. We came out at nine, and I went then to sit and drink tea with Fortescue till twelve.

Tuesday May 19. We had a Thucydides paper this morning from Schofield, and it was a very good one. We dined at 1, and in the evening we went to Thucydides viva voce, and translation into English and Latin. We went up in three divisions of which I was in the last. I went and drank tea with Graham, and walked to Christs with Fox and Brecknock.

Wednesday May 20. I had Euclid paper and viva voce from Amos. The questions were extremely hard, so that no one did more than one or two deductions; I did none right. In the evening we had Horace paper and viva voce, which also was from Amos, and very hard. In the evening I went again to Fortescue.

Thursday May 21. This was a free day for us to rest in. I went to cram some Trigonometry with Peacock. I then walked about with Stevenson. Blomfield breakfasted with me. He came to keep an act, and to vote for Sedgwick in the Woodwardian Professorship. He carried it by a majority of 186, against 59 over Gorham of Queens. Evans had been a candidate, but had given up before. 4 of Blomfields boys were over here too. I dined at 5 with Hustler and met Monk, Hughes, William Hustler, Blomfield, Mr. Halstead, and Haggitt from Bury. I played at whist a little. Dr. Maltby, whom I had never seen before, came in a little while in the evening.

Cambridge May 22. May 26. (35)

Friday May 22. We had Algebra viva voce from Romilly, and Trigonometry paper from Amos. In the evening we had Philoctetus paper, at which I staid for 5 hours and a half. I then went and dressed, and went to a musical party at Longs. Goodbehere, Hobbs, Hole and some more musicians were there. Tayler and Townsend sang. I staid there till one and then came to bed.

Saturday May 23. At 11 I set off to Hildersham on horse back. When there I went in Blomfields gig with him to Chesterford to see the progress of his buildings. I returned with him to dinner. He has got a new pupil in poor Hornbys room viz Nugent, a son of Sir George Nugents. Miss Elizabeth Blomfield lives with him. We took a walk after dinner with Moreton and Abbott. At 1/2 past ten I set off back again and got home in an hours time.

Sunday May 24. I went to Chapel and breakfasted at the club. I went to All Saints church, and then wrote some letters, and walked about. I went to St. Marys at three and heard Benson. At five I dined with griffiths, and met Gambier with whom I walked home, Crawley, Gurdon, Amos, Warren and Majendie, who was Gadbys pupil before me at Eton. It is odd enough that the 18th. May when we began our examination, was the very day on which ten years ago I went to Eton.

Monday May 25. I went at first and sat with Barnardiston a little while, and then breakfasted alone. I then went to Fortescue at Magdalene. I then sat a little while with Peacock on business of Mathematics, and at 2 I went to play at cricket with Fortescue and Crawley. I dined in Magdalene Hall, and then came again and played with Fortescue till 9. I then went and drank tea with him, and came back at 11. I then walked with Stevenson in the cloisters, waiting for the determination of the classes, out of Monks room, till one o'clock, when Schofield came out, and said that I was well in the first class. I then went to bed.

Tuesday May 26. I got up at 7, and soon after found a note on my table from Amos, which he promised to send me;

(36) May 27 – May 29 1818 London.

it was this "I have the greatest pleasure in informing you that you are in the first class. Olivant is only 8 marks above you, and you and he have left all the rest of the first class at a long, very long distance. Amos". This was much more than I had expected; for I had rather be thus separated with another man far from the others, than beat the whole by a very little. I did not hear about the other classes; nor were they put up before I went away, which I did by the Union at 8, with Fortescue. I got to Town at 4 or 5; we dined at 7. There were there Lord Morpeth, Althorp, Sir William Scott, Sir James Mackintosh, Mr. Grenville, Rogers, Fred Ponsonby. I came to bed at about 12.

Wednesday May 27. I went in my Mothers carriage to see the exhibition at Somerset House. I then went to Fortescue, and walked a little while with him. I then went with Althorp to Andersons, to look at some horses, as I intend to buy one to go into Wales, but they were so dear that I gave up the thoughts of it for the present. I then went to Hibbert and walked with him for some time. I came and dined at 1/2 past six, altho I did not come in till the middle of dinner. Mr. Grenville, the Vernons and Stanhope were there, and went with us to Covent Garden to see the Jealous Wife which was beautifully acted, and the Castle of Paluzzi, a new piece.

Thursday May 28. I went out at 12, and met Kindersley with whom I walked to the British gallery, in which there was a better collection than I ever saw before there. I afterwards met Stopford and walked about with him for some time, and lastly I met Hibbert who went with me to Fortescues. I dined at 1/2 past 6 with my Father and Mother, and went to bed about 12.

Friday May 29. I went out at 12 with Brecknock, and having gone first to other places, I set off to Fleet Street by myself. I saw Mr. Mawman and paid a bill for Blomfield. I then returned and met Stopford. At 5 I went to Hibberts, and not long after I went with him, his brother, Bob Palk, and Fortescue to Clapham where we dined with Mr. Hibbert

London May 30. June 3. 1818 Cambridge (37)

and met the Vicechancellor ( Sir John Leach ), Mr. Watson Tayler, Roger Wilbraham, Sir Charles and Lady Pole, Mr. and Mrs. Brooksbank, etc., etc. The same carriage took us back again about 12 o'clock. Brecknock shewed a list of our classes at Trinity; the first class had only 7 who were as follows "Arnold, Lord Graham, Kindersley, Olivant, Rawlinson, Mr. Spencer, Talbot". There were 9 classes.

Saturday May 30. I went to Wimbledon about 12 o'clock with my Mother and Hislop. Sarah and her children, and Harris, were there already, and Lady Hilton and Nannette met us there. We dined at 6 and played at whist in the evening.

Sunday May 31. My Mother made me take a black dose this morning, so I did not go to church in the morning. I went tho at 3. Brecknock and Hibbert came over to dine here. The latter went home again this evening.

Monday June 1. I set off at 11 to walk to London, and in my way called on Allen at Battersea, but he was out. I went to Waites the dentists at 2, and then walked with Fortescue a little. I dined with my Father, my Mother, and Mr. Rogers with whom also I went to the play at Drury Lane, and saw King John acted; went to bed at 12.

Tuesday June 2. I got up to return again to Cambridge. I went by the Telegraph, and got in about 4. I got some dinner at the Bird and Baby, and then went and sat with Thynne till nearly seven. I then come home and read till eleven. ( 3 hours ). The Johnian examinations are now going on.

Wednesday June 3. I got up at 6 and read till 8. I then went walking with Monk till 9. I then read till 12 or 1, and then walked about with Griffith. I went to Hall, and afterwards went to Thynnes room where I actually sat till near eleven. I heard about the state of the first class today a little more, partly from Monk in confidance, and partly what was generally known. Olivant was first and got between 1600 and 1700 marks. I was 8 marks below him. Talbot was next, but 291 marks behind me. Kindersley was 4th., Graham fifth, Arnold sixth, and Rawlinson last. The lowest number of marks for a first class was a thousand. Monk said that I was best in Mathematics, and Graham next, altho Graham was first in Algebra. I was 2 in Classics. I hope that Graham will not read for next years examination, and if my eyes last out, I may have a chance of being first then which would be delightful. ( 5 hours ) Very, very idle !!

(38) Cambridge June 4. June 11. 1818

Thursday June 4. I walked out a little before breakfast, and after it read till 1. I then went out. At two I walked with Stevenson till Hall. It was a feast day for the Kings birthday. After dinner I read from 5 till 11 except a walk to Granchester which I took. ( 9 hours ).

Friday June 5. I went a little while into Thynnes room after breakfast, and went out again at 2. I dined in Hall and afterwards read from 6 till 11. ( 9 hours ).

Saturday June 6. I read from 6 till 11; and then went to Emmanuel and went out with Griffith with whom I dined in their Hall at 4. After dinner we went out of doors and played at bowls with Hughes, Archdall, and Weller. I came home about 8. ( 8 hours ).

Sunday June 7. I went to Chapel, and had Croft, who returned yesterday, and Hildyard to breakfast. I then went to All Saints, and afterwards walked about a little. I went to St. Marys and then dined at the Bird with Thynne, Stuart, Wodehouse, Macgennis, and Greville. I came to Chapel. I walked about with Croft and Hildyard in whose room we drank tea, and had a great political debate with Stainforth.

Monday June 8. I went at 6 to bathe at Granchester, but did not get back till 1/2 past 8, as I was delayed in looking for the place. I read till about 2. I dined in Hall and then walked an immense time with Villiers and others about St. Johns. It was the last day of the examination. I came come at 1/2 past seven. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday June 9. I went out a little while after breakfast, and again before and after Hall. About 8 or 9 in the evening Fremantle came to me from Oxford, and was safely lodged in Sudells rooms, next door to mine. ( 6 hours ).

Wednesday June 10. I went out after breakfasting in my rooms, to walk about with Fremantle, and read the rest of time till five, when we were to have dined in my room, but I was out of sizings and commons,and we therefore dined at the Bird. ( 7 hours ).

Thursday June 11. Blomfield came to breakfast with us today, and take his degree of B.D. We went with him to the Senate House and then walked with Griffith to the Fitzwilliam museum. After which we returned and went with Blomfield to Kings Chapel. ( 7 hours ).

Cambridge June 12. June 20. 1818 Althorp and Wiseton (39)

I had then thought of going into Hall with him, but I forgot I was still out of **** so we went without dinner and read instead. I heard today that Thynne was not in the 1st. class, nor Hyde Villiers at St. Johns, but in the 2 ? Greville was 11th. of the Freshmen, Wodehouse lower, but in the 1st. class. In the 2d year, G. Villiers was in the 1st., Stewart in the 2d. ( 6 hours ).

Friday June 12. I heard today that Esther had died in child bed. So I left Fremantle in my rooms and set off in a chaise about eleven. I got to town at seven, and went to Lord Miltons house, where Althorp then was, and where Esther had been confined. Althorp was quite overpowered when he saw me. I came home to sleep at Spencer House. ( 0 ).

Saturday June 13. I went to Althorps today with my Mother on her way to Wimbledon, and staid the day with him and Mr. Allen who came over from Battersea. He went away at 8, after dinner. I staid till late. ( 0 ).

Sunday June 14. I went to breakfast with Althorp, and staid the rest of the day. Allen did not come till about 2, after his Church. I staid again till 11, he till 8. ( 0 )

Monday June 15. This day passed with me exactly as the last, except that Allen went away before dinner. ( 0 ).

Tuesday June 16. The funeral of poor Esther set off for Althorp at 9 o'clock today. I met it in Picadilly, while walking to Grosvenor Place. At ten Althorp, Mr. Allen and I set out, and arrived at Althorp about 8 o'clock when we dined and went to bed at 12. ( 0 ).

Wednesday June 17. I went to Northampton after breakfast this morning to talk to Bouverie, who manages Althorps election this time, and who had asked me to come and represent him, but he now let me off. A contest is now going on at Northampton for the town. We dined at 1/2 past 5, and walked out after dinner a little. ( 0 ).

Thursday June 18. At 3 we went to Brington and attended the funeral which had then just arrived. Mr. Rose of Whilton performed it. It did not touch Althorp as much as I expected, but rather seemed to stupify him. ( 0 ).

Friday June 19. Althorp and I set off at 6 to Wiseton where we arrived at 9. ( 0 ).

Saturday June 20. I walked about with Althorp, and wrote letters, and read a little. We dined at 6, and then walked about a little, and I read an hour or two in the evening. Althorp at first could not bear the sight of the place without horror, but that must go off in time, and indeed has already begun to do so. ( 4 hours ).

(40) Wiseton June 21. July 5. 1818. Cambridge.

Sunday June 21. The longest day. I got up not before nine, for I cannot do without my old Cambridge alarm clock. I went to church at Clayworth and sat a little with Mr. Shepherd. I came home for some time, and afterwards took a walk with Althorp, who is a little better.

Monday June 22. I got up late again. After breakfast I either was walking with Althorp, or reading and writing till dinner, and I walked a little afterwards. ( 5 hours ).

Tuesday June 23. This day passed exactly as the last. ( 4 hours ).

Wednesday June 24. Today we saw a fishery on the canal which made some variety, and I went to bathe in the river before breakfast, or else all was as before. ( 3 hours ).

Thursday June 25. It rained till 1, then Althorp and I went out to see the cattle, and had to drag one out of a ditch where he had fallen. ( 4 hours ).

Friday June 26. I went out with Althorp at 2 about, and we employed ourselves in cutting up thistles, till Mr. Shepherd came and met us from Clayworth. We sat out of doors a long time after dinner. ( 3 hours ).

Saturday June 27. At 2 Althorp and I rode out on Eclipse and Shallaginski for 2 hours. ( 4 hours ).

Sunday June 28. I went to church at Clayworth, and sat a little with Mr. Shepherd. I then took a strolling walk with Althorp; we walked out again after dinner.

Monday June 29. Read till 2, then went out with Althorp to cut thistles, and took another walk after dinner.

Tuesday June 30. I had promised myself to be at Cambridge today, but Mrs. Acklon was not fit to come here so soon, and Althorp put off going to fetch her. He has behaved very well indeed about her. I went at ten today with William Chowler to shoot wild ducks on a fenny ground, near here. I came back at 12 with 7 ducks and a snipe. I then walked a little with Althorp about the farm. After dinner Mr. Shepherd came over from Clayworth, and walked with us till nine.

Wednesday July 1. It rained so much that we could get out only for a little while. The rest of time I read Middletons life of Cicero. During my stay here I have done a little of Cicero, either in reading or translating, and some Mathematics. We go off tomorrow. I long to see Fremantle "quem merito ejus amo plurimum". ( for the last 11 days about 3 1/2 hours reading a day ).
< DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

( 40 cont.)

Thursday July 2. I set off from Wiseton with Althorp at 7, and got to sleep at Bugden about 8, a distance of 92 miles thro Grantam, Staniford etc. ( 0 ).

Friday July 3. I set off alone from Buckden to Huntingdon about 7, and had to kill 2 hours till the coach to Cambridge went through. I went by it, and got to Cambridge about 1, and found Fremantle in my rooms. I staid with him till 3, and then we went into Hall, and there found Barnardiston, Long, Peacock, etc. After Hall we went to see Griffith, and walked back with him. We then went to Townsends at Downings to get tea, but he was out, so we sat waiting for him some time, and then came home to tea. I read then from 9 to ten. ( 3 hours ).

Saturday July 4. I have got Peacock for a tutor now, and I went to him at 1/2 past 9 today. I then went to the Senate House with Barnardiston where there was a great number of new faces to me. I read more afterwards. At seven Fremantle and I went to dine at Sheridans after Evening Chapel, and met Shore, Long and Hall. After dinner Hibbert, Bob, Palk and Smith, old Cambridge men came in. A large set of them are just arrived for the Commencement. I came back at 12.

Sunday July 5. I went to Chapel, and then had Barnardiston to breakfast alone, as Fremantle was gone to breakfast with Dupuis. I then went to

Cambridge July 6. July 9. 1818 (41)

St. Marys where the benefactors were recited. After that we walked with some of that long con in Kings Piece, and came home at 1 to write letters, but we rather talked. At 4 we went to dine in Emmanuel Hall and met Dr. Parr who was quite up to my expectations in oddity and brutality. After dinner we came to Chapel and then after walking in Clary Hall piece, went to see Brougham with whom we drank tea.

Monday July 6. At ten Fremantle and I went to breakfast with Griffith and met about 20 men, among whom were 2 Hibberts, 2 Gambiers, Crawley, Percival, Shore, Palk etc. About 12 Senex Townsend took his M.A. degree. We dined at 5 with Monk, and met Dr. Sam Butler and 2 daughters, Blomfield, 2 Waddingtons, Hustler, and Shore etc. At 9 we went to the commencement ball in the Town Hall. I danced with 2 Miss Butlers and the eldest Miss Mansell, and was to have danced with a Miss Gambier, but was ch**ed of her. We came back at 3.

Tuesday July 7. I had an enormous breakfast to the same people that were at Griffith yesterday, and then went at 11 to hear in the Senate House, Long recite and English prize poem, Hall a Greek ode, Maltby Epigrams, and Walker the Parsons prize; no Latin ode was given. We then sauntered about, and called on Dr. Butler, at Emmanuel Lodge, who is to assist us about Wales in writing letters. We then walked about with Griffith. At 5 we went to dine with Gambier, and met Mrs and the 2 Miss Gambiers, Fred Gambier from Oxford, Crawley, Hibbert, Palk and Shore. After dinner we went to drink tea in a body with Griffith, and played at bowls and at cards etc. I returned at 12.

Wednesday July 8. I went to Peacock and staid in reading till about 3. I then went and saw Griffith, Croft and others. I went at 5 to dine at the Lodge where there were six Miss Mansells, Dr. Lovett and a daughter, Spencer, Percival, Gentleman, Peacock, and John Brown, besides the Bishop himself. Hustler, Monk and Griffith came after dinner. In the evening we danced country dances with the Miss Mansells, and had some supper. I came away at 1. ( 5 hours ).

Thursday July 9. I, Fremantle, Percival and Palk breakfasted with Hibbert at Mrs. Perrys. I went to Peacock at 2. At 5 I had dinner for Percival, Croft, Hibbert, Palk, Luxmore, and Sheridan. After dinner we walked out behind the Colleges and in the courts; and at ten they had a game at whist. After which they staid talking and rowing one another, but particularly Luxmore, till 1. Fremantle had dined with Townsend at Downing and Lord Bayning, and came home a little before they set off. ( 3 hours ).

(42) Cambridge July 10 th. 16th. 1818

Friday July 10. I breakfasted with Fremantle and went to Peacock at 1/2 past 9. After that I went to see Percival, Palk and Hibbert set off, and then walked about with Crawley. Fremantle went out riding with Griffith and had no dinner, so I went into Hall alone, and he and I at 4 wined with Barnardiston, and walked with him till 7. Croft came at 8, and drank tea with us. ( 5 hours ).

Saturday July 11. I went to Peacock at 1/2 9; and then I staid in till 2 nearly. Brougham came to see me. Fremantle and I went to Hall, and afterwards rode till 7 to Madinglay. We then came in and read till near 9, then Croft came and drank tea with us, after which we sat talking for some time. ( 7 hours ).

Sunday July 12. I went to Chapel. Croft, Stevenson, Brougham, and Barnardiston breakfasted with me, and prevented us from going to church. I wrote some letters afterwards, and went to St. Marys. At 5 we dined with Brougham at the Bird, and then came to Chapel. The Bishop then sent to me to come to tea at the Lodge. We had it in the Greenhouse, and then walked about the garden till prayers. We then had supper, and I came home at 12.

Monday July 13. I read till 2 having gone to Peacock at 1/2 past 9, and then Fremantle and I went to play at tennis. At 5 we dined with Griffith and met Mr. Parcs, member for Leicester, Mr. and Mrs. Haget, Miss McMurdo, and Miss Gregg, 3 disgusting blue stockings. After dinner we had the plague of walking with them till 11, in Christs and Emmanuel gardens, and in Kings piece. ( 6 hours ).

Tuesday July 14. I went to Peacock at 9, and at 11 set off with Fremantle to see a race at Newmarket from which we returned at 1/3 past 3. I saw there Andrews and Bowerie from Northampton. At 6 we dined with Crawley, and again met the same party as yesterday. They went to look at the Pepysian, so we came home at ten. ( 3 hours ).

Wednesday July 15. We went to Peacock and then staid in talking of a letter we had from Towyn from a man who has a house there, and to whose house we shall go to live. At 1/2 past 5 we went to dine with Hustler and met Dr. and Mrs. Butler, 2 Misses Butler, Monk, 3 Miss Wheelwrights, Miss Robinson, Barnardiston, William Hustler etc. In the evening we danced country dances till 11. ( 4 hours ).

Thursday July 16. Gurdon came to us and interrupted our reading at 1, and staid till 3, but I went to walk with Griffith part of the time. Fremantle and I dined in Hall, and then rode to Chesterford to see Blomfield, with whom we drank tea, and went across to little Chesterford for a funeral. We go home to Cambridge at 10. ( 8 hours ).

Cambridge July 17 July 24 1818 (43)

Friday July 17. I read till 3 and then staid talking to Gurdon who again came to see Fremantle till 4. Then Frem. and I went to play at tennis, and afterwards had a little dinner at the Bird. We came to read about 7. ( 9 hours ).

Saturday July 18. Staid in till 3 then went to Hall; and after that to tennis. At 7 I went to drink tea with Croft and Gambier who is just come back; came to read at 8. ( 10 hours ).

Sunday July 19. Breakfasted in Fremantles room, with Gambier, Croft, and Hildyard. Went with Fremantle to All Saints, then walked a little to *******, and then sat in my room till nearly five when we went to dine at the Bird with Croft, Gambier, and Hildyard. Fremantle and I went to Chapel and then drank tea with Stevenson, and met the ***** **** with Luxmoore, an old Johnian, and Crawley. We walked all together till 1/2 past 9.

Monday July 20. I was not well this morning, I believe on account of the hotness of the weather. I went to Peacock however. Crawley came at one to take us to the Fitzwilliam Museum; where we staid till 2. And then walked about with him till Hall. I then went and played at tennis with Fremantle for an hour, which made me worse; so I went to bed before ten. ( not well and could not read ).

Tuesday July 21. Got up rather late, went to Peacock at 1/2 past 9. At 1 I went into the Assize court but was obliged by the heat to come out again. I staid in my room till nearly 5, and had no dinner. After that I walked about a little with Fremantle, who had been all the morning in Court. I wrote some letters and we drank tea at home. ( 5 hours ).

Wednesday July 22. Rather better today. Went to Peacock and was very stupid. At 2 Fremantle and I set off in a gig to Chesterford to dine with Blomfield in his new house. There were only Miss Blomfield and Mr. Lascelles there. He has made it a very comfortable place. We got back by eleven. (Quite well again this evening). ( 2 hours ).

Thursday July 23. Went to Peacock. At 1 went to walk with Fremantle and saw Gambier. We dined in Hall and went to see the Mss. in the Library, and the top of Kings Chapel. Then I drank tea at 8 with Croft and Gambier at Mrs. Woolards and came home late to read.

Friday July 24. Went to Peacock. Fremantle set off at one o'clock to London by the Lynn coach, on the way to Chelmsford races,

(44) Cambridge July 25 – 30 1818

and left me alone here again. I went into Hall and afterwards walked about a little, wrote some letters, and went to bed early. ( 7 hours ).

Saturday July 25. This morning I received a letter from Althorp; with a draught for the 300 pounds which he lends me to pay my bills with. They will not take above £220 of it I think, and the rest will set me off again in a good plight. I am now determined never to have any bills again if I can help it, larger than I can pay directly. I vested 200 of it at Sir John Thortlocks bank and shall send draughts to Town to pay my bills there. I went to drink tea at Chesterton with Stevenson and Guthrie, and came home about 9. ( 7 hours ).

Sunday July 26. I went to Chapel and then breakfasted alone. I settled all my letters and papers today. I went in the morning to St. Marys and heard Vane of Magdalene. I dined at 5 with Gambier, Croft and Hildyard at the Bird. I came to Chapel and drank tea with Stevenson, and again with Croft, after a walk in Clare Hall piece.

Monday July 27. Very rainy. Went to Peacock and read till 3, except writing some letters to tradesmen. Dined in Hall and went into Combination, as it was a feast day, till 6. At 8 drank tea at Mrs. Woolards with Croft, Gambier and Hildyard; and played at whist with them in Crofts room till 11. ( 7 hours ).

Tuesday July 28. Went to Peacock for 2 hours, walked a little about the town and came to Hall. Read from 6 to 1/2 past 8, drank tea with Gambier and played at whist till past ten with him, Hildyard, and Stevenson. ( 9 hours ).

Wednesday July 29. Went to Peacock for 3 hours and a half! till 1 o'clock, then went out settling affairs part of the time till Hall, after which I walked a little; and at 9 drank tea with Croft, Gambier, and Hildyard at Mrs. Woolards, and went to bed at 12. ( 9 hours ).

Thursday July 30. In all the bustle of packing up. However, went to Peacock for 2 hours. Dined in Hall, and at 5 went to eat fruit etc., in Gambiers room with him and Croft, then walked about settling affairs, and packed up some things. Went to bed early. ( 5 hours ).

came to Towyn July 31. Aug. 4. 1818. (45)

Friday July 31. I set off at 1/2 past 5 in the Rising Sun to Birmingham. Buller who is just coming up to Kings, from being captain at Eton went by it as far as Northampton, and talked a great deal about Eton affairs; where the whole face of things seems changed. I saw Dr. Archibald Robertson at Northampton. He is come to settle there in the view of Kerrs death, and has before consulted me about it. I got to Birmingham at ten and put up to sleep and sup at the Castle Inn, the most uncomfortable and uncivil I have often seen.

Saturday Aug. 1. At 11 or a little after I set off in a coach which was immensely loaded to Shrewsbury. At Woolverhampton we dined, and there I found that Fremantle had come inside the same coach without my knowing it. A pleasant surprise, for I did not expect to see him till tomorrow morning. About 9 we got to the Talbot Inn at Shrewsbury, where we slept in a very good double bedded room, and had a good supper with a curious sort of man who fell in with us. We went about this evening buying candles, tea etc.

Sunday Aug. 2. We set off in a Post chaise at 5 o'clock for Towyn. Changed and breakfasted at Welch Pool. ( 18 miles ); Can Office ( 15 miles ); ( Mallhin** 12; Machynleth 12. Where we dined. Towyn 13. Making altogether 70 miles. The four last stages were nothing but up and down hill and so we got in only at 9 or 10 o'clock; and were very much pleased with the inside of our house. Mrs. Edwards our Land lady was come here to set us off. A maid ( Kitty ) was already in the house for 3" & 6 < 3 shillings and 6 pence > a week.

Monday Aug. 3. We got up at ten and went to bathe in the sea which is adjoining our premises. Coming home Mrs. Edwds. presented herself to us and was very civil. We engaged a man ( William Lewis ) to wait on us for 8/- < 8 shillings > a week. The house is ten guineas a month. After breakfast we read till 2, and then went out exploring till 1/2 past 4; dined at 5 on Welch mutton, Salmon and apple pudding. Went out again on the sands, and drank tea at 8, then wrote letters and saw Col. Edwards. Went to bed at 1/2 past 11. ( 5 hours).

Tuesday Aug. 4. We got at 6 and bathed, began reading at 7 till 9. Began again at 1/2 past 10 till 2. Went out shooting on the coast (vid. Game book), and met Old Corbet in a Bath chair who asked a number of impudent questions and asked us to dine with him tomorrow; but we intend to send an excuse as he

(46) Towyn Aug 5 Aug 10 1818

is a notorious blackguard, altho the great proprietor about this country. We came home and dined at 5, and went then to the town of Towyn without much effect in the shopping way; came home, cleaned our guns, drank tea at 8, and read from 9 till 11. ( 8 hours ).

Wednesday Aug 5. Got up at 6 and bathed. After breakfast read till 1 when Cap. Pearce called on us, at 2 we walked southward on the beach with guns. Dined at 5 and walked a little afterwards, drank tea at 8. A regular day. Read ( 9 ).

Thursday Aug. 6. Bathed at 6. Read till 2 except breakfast. We went out to the north on the sands for 2 or 3 miles till stopped by a river; we had guns but could kill nothing but small birds. Dined at 5, cleaned guns and read from 7 till 11 all but tea. ( 9 1/2 hours ).

Friday Aug. 7. Bathed at seven; read till 1. After which we set off on horseback for Machynleth where we dined at 5 with Col. and Mrs. Edwards. The party consisted only of themselves, and a little boy, and a Mr. Reevely from near Dolgelly. The Col. was very hospitable and civil to us, and has been so in every thing that we have had to do with him. ( 4 hours ).

Saturday Aug. 8. Got up at 9, breakfasted directly. It was rainy in the morning, but it cleared up, and Co. Edwards and Mr. Reevely rode with us, a beautiful ride on the mountains towards Aberdovey. In the way we stopped at Mauben, a pretty place, where 2 old Miss Williamss live and a Miss Owen and keep a grand shop for gossip. We saw also a foolish castle of a Mr. Jeffries on the mountains. We came home and went shopping in the town till dinner, at which a Mr. Hallowes, a Lieutenant in the navy joined us. Sat talking both these evenings. ( 0 ).

Sunday Aug. 9. Breakfasted at 10. Went to English service with the Edwardses at 11. Then Frem and I wrote letters, he to Blomfield, I to Wilton; dined for our convenience at 1/2 past 3, and afterwards set off to ride home to Towyn. Mr. Reevely went with us as far as Talgath. We had tea and wrote journals.

Monday Aug. 10. Bathed at 1/2 past 6, and read as usual till 2. We then went out shooting about a marsh towards Aberdovey, and had more sight of game, such as it is, than usual, but brought home nothing. I got an immense ducking in a black mud ditch which came up to my middle, or higher, and Fremantle got a wetting too, but not so serious a one. After dinner we cleaned guns, and walked a little on the sands. My week of Regency began today. Fremantle had it the last. ( 9 hours ).

Towyn Aug 11. Aug 17 1818. (47)

Tuesday Aug 11. I bathed at 7 alone as Fremantle would not come. I read but very badly till 2, and then we went out shooting on the same marsh till dinner, but killed nothing. We walked after dinner to Towyn on business. ( 5 hours ).

Wednesday Aug. 12. We bathed at 6 and read as usual till 2. Then we dined in order to go shooting to the northward a little farther off. When we had set off we walked on till within sight of Barmouth without expecting it, and so we went on to it and slept there. The place disappointed us very much. Very sandy and with bad houses which all catch one anothers smoke, being on a high bank. We had a harper at supper time. ( 6 hours ).

Thursday Aug. 13. We got up at 6 and took a boat from Barmouth to Towyn for half a guinea. Breakfasted at home and began reading at 12, till 5. After dinner we went to Towyn to settle affairs, and helped to pull a pony out of a ditch near the town. Came home to tea. ( 7 hours ).

Friday Aug. 14. I bathed at 7 alone. We read till 2 when Mr. Jeffries called with Cap. Pearse a 2nd time. We then went out with our guns towards Aberdovey, but did not get a shot all day. We got to Aberdovey itself without expecting it; and did not come home to dinner till near 6. After which we did not go out , but I read little. ( 7 hours ) ( 9 miles walking ).

Saturday Aug. 15. We were not called till 1/2 past 8 so I did not bathe. We made ourselves greater bucks than usual today and set off at 2 to call on Mr. Scott near Aberdovey. He takes pupils there. We came home to dinner at 1/2 past 5. And after dinner, ( still greater bucks ) we went to drink tea at Bodalog with Mr. and Mrs. Jeffreys, and came home at 1/2 past ten. ( 6 hours ) ( 14 miles walking ).

Sunday Aug 16. We got up and bathed about 8 o'clock. After breakfast we walked about a little and wrote some letters. At 1 we set off to the top of a mountain which stands almost by itself between Towyn and Cader Idris. Its foot was 3 miles from our house. We had a fine view all round us, but particularly towards the other mountains. We came back by 5 and after dinner stood talking to Cap. Pearse, with whom we drank tea, and came to our own house at 9. ( 8 miles walking ).

Monday Aug. 17. Cap. Pearce had some breakfast in our house with us at 6, after which we set off to Aberdovey, partly on horseback, and part of the way on foot. We there found Mr. Jeffreys, in whose boat we sailed up the river to Glandovey, his house about 6 miles from the mouth. Mr. Dodd and Hayman two pupils of Mr. Scott were with us. At Glandovey we breakfasted again, and

(48) Towyn. Aug 18. Aug 22. 1818

soon after went out shooting on the river with a long gun of Mr. Jeffreys, and got quite soused in the water. We came home to dine in the castle about 5 or 6, dressed out in Mr. Jeffreys breeches etc. After dinner Mr. Scott came up and returned with his pupils. We remained to sleep and heard Mr. Jeffreys play on the harp. Went to bed at 12. ( 0 ).

Tuesday Aug. 18. We breakfasted at Glandovey at 9, and after it Fremantle and I with a boy belonging to it came to Aberdovey in a Mr. Jeffreys boat, and then walked on to Towyn which we reached about 3. We dined at 5 and then read all the evening very silently!! ( 6 hours ).

Wednesday Aug. 19. We both bathed this morning. We went out at 10 and attempted to go shooting in a boat belonging to Mr. Kenricke, a neighbour of ours, but she leaked so that we were obliged to return very soon for fear of sinking. We therefor crossed the de Luney in the ferry and walked some way beyond it after snipes and gulls. We did not come in till 3 having killed 4 snipes. We then read till dinner and again all the evening except a short walk after dinner. ( 7 hours ).

Thursday Aug. 20. I bathed at 7. At 1 we went out shooting with Cap. Pearse to the Southward and killed 6 snipes. We did not get in till 5, when we dined and then walked to Towyn on business, and read the rest of the evening. ( 7 hours ).

Friday Aug. 21. I bathed at 7. Fremantle took physick. We read till 2, and then went and called on Mr. Jeffreys at Bodalog. We returned for dinner. It rained after dinner and so we did not go out. ( 8 hours ).

Saturday Aug. 22. I bathed at 1/2 past 6. Fremantle would not got out of bed today until 12! and so I breakfasted alone. At 1 we got horses from Towyn and rode to Bodalog first, where we picked up Mr. Jeffreys, with whom we rode on to dine with Cap.n and Mrs. Thurston at Talgarth on the road to Machynlleth, about 9 miles from us. The only person there besides us was Mr. Lewis a Machynlleth surgeon. We returned in the evening and went to bed at 1/2 past 11. ( 5 hours ). Mr. Jeffreys met us there from Glandovey and rode home with us.

Sunday Aug. 23. I got up at 8, and went to bathe alone. After breakfast we sat up stairs till about 1; and then went up a mountain near us, but had not so good a view as we had from the first we tried. At 4 we went to Bodalog to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Jeffries. Miss Strong was also there. We walked out after dinner in the garden, and came away about 10. Mr. Jeffries is very good natured, and I like him very much, but his wife is by no means agreeable, altho there is no harm in her. I heard from my Mother the other day that Frity has got his lieutenantey and will be at home all Christmas.

Towyn Aug 23. Aug 29. 1818 (49)

Monday Aug 24. We both went to bathe this morning at 1/2 past 6. This is the beginning of another weeks regency for me. We read till 2 and then went out shooting towards the de Luney River, and killed two snipes. I went thro the river in the narrowest part naked, but found it a good deal out of my depth in the middle. After dinner we again went on the coast to shoot, and I killed a large sea gull, the first I ever was able to conquer. One of his feathers I am now writing with. I went to bed at 1/2 past 11. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Aug 25. I did not bathe today, and read badly after breakfast. At 2 we went out with our guns to the Northward. We passed the river, but I shot at nothing as Fremantle left me alone there; we came back rather late for dinner. After dinner we went to Towyn and drank tea with Mr. Davies the Curate and walked about the town a little with him, and came home by nine. ( 7 hours ).

Wednesday Aug 26. I bathed at 7. We had intended today to have ridden to see Peniarth with Mr. Jeffreys, but the weather was so unsettled that we did not go. However, we had engaged ponies, and so we set off at 2 with them towards Machynlleth, but one was so restive that we were obliged to turn back. We went out a little while with our guns and killed two snipes. After dinner we did not go out. ( 7 hours ).

Thursday Aug 27. I did not bathe as it rained. Mr. Jeffreys had put us off from our ride yesterday, and asked us to ride today, but we refused and staid in till 1/2 past 2. We then went and walked without guns, on the sands and measured out a mile and came home at 1/2 past 3. We then dressed and walked to Bodalog to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Jeffreys alone. The Thurstons were to have come, but could not because of the rain. We returned at 11. ( 5 hours ).

Friday Aug 28. Went to bathe very late and read but little before breakfast. We went out at 2 and crossed the De Luney, but killed only 3 snipes altogether. I cleaned my gun after dinner, and then read, but not very industriously. ( 7 hours ).

Saturday Aug 29. We bathed at 6 and went on as usual till 2. We then went out to the northward but did not cross the river, and killed a Lapwing and 4 snipes, which latter we sent to Mrs. Jeffreys. After dinner we cleaned our guns for the approaching first of September, and then read till 12. ( 10 hours ).

Sunday Aug 30. We bathed at 8 and found the sea higher than we ever yet have. At 12 we went out with Cap. Pearce and his dogs, on the other side of the De Luney, on Mr. Kenrichs property to see about the partridges. We saw but one covey. We came back by 5 to dinner. We went to tea at Bodalog with Mr. Jeffreys and came back at 10.

(50) Towyn Aug 30. Sep 7. 1818 Aberystwyth

Aug 31 Monday. We bathed at 6 and read till past 4 with some interruptions by Cap. Pearce. I then went and walked a mile on the sands alone till dinner. After dinner we went out, and having marked a snipe on the marsh near Towyn, I fetched a gun, but could not kill it. Captain Pearce sat some time with us in the evening making cartridges. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Sep. 1. To keep up the charter of the day Fremantle and I went out at 6 with Cap. Pearce and his dogs partridge shooting on Mr. Corbetts ground. We were driven in by rain at 9, and breakfasted together in our house. Fremantle and I had some shots but killed nothing. Cap. Pearce killed two birds . We read from breakfast till dinner, after which we again went out but killed nothing. ( 7 hours ).

Wednesday Sep 2. We went out at 1/2 past 6, with Cap. Pearce in the same direction, but had no shots and returned about 11, when he set off with bag and baggage to Machynleth. I bathed about 12 and then read till dinner. After dinner Fremantle and I again went out with guns but it began raining and we saw nothing. Mr. Jeffreys tonight sent us a Poynter to use. ( 8 hours ).

Thursday Sep 3. I went to bathe at 1/2 past 6. At one we went out with Sancho, Mr. Jeffreys dogs and William, but it soon rained violently and we did not see a bird. I read an hour till dinner of old Mortality, which I was at all the evening excepting a walk to Towyn after dinner. ( 5 hours ).

Friday Sep 4. I took physic this morning, but was up at 7. I read nothing but old Mortality after dinner. We went out in the morning for different moments between the showers of rain. We went out shooting and killed three gulls, and dined at Griffith Owens inn. ( 3 hours ). He and his son played to us on the harp for a long time.

Saturday Sep 5. I bathed at 6. The day was so fine that we determined to walk over to Aberystwyth. We therefor cleaned our guns well, and at 1 we had some dinner. We then set off with William carrying a portmanteau. We arrived at Aberystwyth about 7 and found it a very pretty gay place. We went upon a terrace near the sea where numbers of people were walking. I met Kirby of Clare Hall Cantab. there who said that Henslow had erected a standard as tutor with 4 pupils ( Proby and Samson of Trim, Tuge of St. Johns and Allen of Pemb.) We hired lodgings at Mrs. Morgans in Portland St. ( 4 hours ).

Sunday Sep 6. We got up and had a pleasant bathe from a machine. We hear that there will be a good ball here on Tuesday, for we have determined to stay, and have sent William on horseback to Towyn to fetch clothes for us. We dined at the Black Lion at 5. And we went to church morning and evening. We walked on the Stein or
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(50 cont.)

parade for a long time, and on the castle walks.

Monday Sep 7. We did not get up till late, but we went to bathe and read a little with some books that William brought over to us. We had intended to go and see the Devils bridge but we put off our departure for it till too late so we dined at the Black Lion again, and in the evening went to a play at

Aberystwyth Sep 7. Sep 13. 1818 Towyn (51)

the Town Hall, in the most wretched stile. ( 6 hours passim ).

Tuesday Sep 8. We went to bathe early. After breakfast we prepared to go to Devils bridge, but did not set off till near 12. We had two nasty ponies that were obliged to be flogged the whole way. We had intended to go on and see Hafod, Mr. Joness place, but we found it too far so we walked about the beautiful cataracts at Devilsbridge and dined in the Hafod arms inn there. We came back and went to a ball at the Talbot Inn, which I did not enjoy as much as usual but without any reason for not doing so. I danced with Misses Easton, Lockston, and Misses Kitty and Mary Walcut. We came home at 1/2 past 4. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Sep 9. We did not get up till one. We went out after breakfast on the parade and met the Miss Walcuts, with one of whom Fremantle is desperately in love. They are all the nicest girls here. We walked with them up the mountain that overlooks the town from the northward, and after that had to hurry immensely in order to be in time for dinner at Nanteos, whither Mr. Powel had invited us. Jeffreys gave us a letter of introduction to him. Proby and Kirby were there as well as a Mr. Lewis, Mr. and Miss Phelps, Mr. R.d Powel. The home is very good and I like Powel very much. We returned about eleven o'clock in our chaise. ( 0 ).

Thursday Sep 10. Fremantle and I breakfasted at 8. After which we set off on foot for Towyn with William. We arrived there about 3, having had a long time to wait at the Dyfi ferry. We found upon our return that Edwards had sent his horses for us; but we could not go, and sent them back again. I read till 1/2 past 12. ( 6 hours ).

Friday Sep 11. I went to bathe at 1/2 past 7. After breakfast we read till 3, and walked out with guns; but had no shots. Fremantle killed a lapwing in the morning. ( 9 hours ).

Saturday Sep 12. I bathed and read two hours before breakfast. We went out shooting but killed nothing. At 1 o'clock we dined at 1/2 past 2 in order to have a grand read after dinner; but Mrs. Edwards rode over with a Mr. Mirehouse and her nephew to see us, and asked us to go to Machynlleth on Monday. However, I managed 9 or 10 hours, and went to bed at 3. We had coffee at 7 and tea at 9. ( 15 hours ). I had a letter from Frity who says he is in love with Miss Fremantle at Lucca.

Sunday Sep 13. I got up at 1/2 past 9 and bathed. I was obliged to breakfast alone as Fremantle would not get up till 3 o'clock, actually 1/2 past 3. I wrote a letter etc., and went out a little alone. We dined at 4. Mr. and Mrs. Jeffreys rode over to see us, and we returned to drink tea with them at Bodalog. We returned rather early and sat up to clean guns etc., till 1.

(52) Towyn Sep 14. Sep 21. 1818

Sep 14 Monday. We set off early for Machynlleth. We walked to Bodalog where Jeffreys lent us horses as far as Pennal, from whence we went in a gig of Edwards. We breakfasted at Greenfields and met Mr. Mirehouse ( not Miles ), who came to us with Mrs. Edwards on Saturday. With him we went out shooting but with horrid dogs and worse keepers; so that we killed nothing. We dined at 6, and in the evening Fremantle, Edwards, Mirehouse and I played at whist. Went to bed at 12. ( no reading ).

Tuesday Sep 15. I got up to breakfasted and then went out shooting with Cap. Pearce and Fremantle. We brought home 3 brace, tho I killed nothing. We did not come to dinner till 1/2 past 7; an hour and a half too late. There arrived also Mr. and Mrs. Pugh, Miss Hopkins, Mr. Venables ( the Rector ), Mr. Nugent. After dinner some more people came. We played at whist with Mr. Pugh. There was also a Commerce party. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Sep 16. We went out after breakfast this morning shooting on our way home with Cap Pearce. He left us at 5 having killed nothing. And we came home after losing our way once. We had a great battle with Edwards about leaving him, but were victorious. We dined at 8 at Towyn, and went to bed at 11. ( no reading ) ( 20 miles walking).

Thursday Sep 17. I went to bathe at 1/2 past 7, and then read till near 3, except cleaning our guns after breakfast. We went out shooting towards the De Lunhy River, and Fremantle killed a gull. After dinner we settled accounts, and read till late. ( 11 hours ).

Friday Sep 18. I did not bathe as it rained till about 12. Mr. Davies the curate called on us, and talked gossip in a disgusting manner for some time. At 3 o'clock we went out on the beach, and I killed a Kurleugh. After dinner we again read till bed time and talked. I wrote a letter to Luxmoore. ( 8 hours ).

Saturday Sep 19. I went to bathe at 1/2 past 7. It rained almost all day. We did not go out till 1/2 past 3. We had Mr. Jeffreys long gun but killed nothing. After dinner we sat up till 1/2 past 3. ( 15 hours ).

Sunday Sep 20. I did not get up till ten, I then bathed. Mr. Jeffreys sent horses for us with an invitation to dinner, which we went to at 2 o'clock. There were only Mr. and Mrs. Jeffreys. We staid there till about 9, and then came home with a lantern on foot. Sat up settling journal etc., till 1.

Monday Sep 21. It rained this morning so I could not bathe till 11 when it was very fine, but it turned again and was miserable weather till the evening. The wind was excessively high. We went out near 4 with the long gun but killed nothing. After dinner we read till 1/2 past 2. ( 14 hours ).

Towyn Sep 22 Sep 26 1818 Caernarvon (53)

Tuesday Sep 22. I caught a quarter of an hour between the showers and bathed this morning. I read a little before breakfast, and again till 12 when Mr. Jeffreys walked over from Bodalog to see us. When he was going away we thought of going up Cader Idris and accordingly set off for Minford Inn at the foot of it, one on his grey pony the other on a pony from Towyn. It was ten miles off and we arrived there in 1 1/2 hours, with Old George ( Jeffreys groom ). We immediately ascended with a stripling guide. We left the foot of the hill at 4 o'clock. Fremantle was at the top in an hour and 8 minutes. I did not get up till the hour and quarter, but Bingley said that 2 hours is necessary. We passed by a large lake in the bosom of the mountain called Llyn y Cae. The weather was as good as we could hope for when we were at the top. We were at the Inn again in three hours from our leaving it. The name of the man was Jones. We set off home about 9; lost our way and came past Craig y Derin; arrived about 11 and went to bed. ( 3 hours ).

Wednesday Sep 23. About 11 I went out shooting, and then came in and was employed packing till I persuaded Fremantle to go and see Mrs. Jeffreys at Bodalog. We returned about dinner time; after which we cleaned our guns, and sat up packing till 1/2 past 3. I bathed in the morning. ( 0 ).

Thursday Sep 24. I bathed. It was very rainy till 1 or 2. About 11 we sent off William in a cart with the luggage to Dolgelly. We set off ourselves on ponies at 1, which we hired at Towyn. We dined at the Golden Lion, and then went for the evening and slept at Mr. Reveleys of Bryn y givin about 1/2 miles from Dolgelly.
( 0 ).

Friday Sep 25. After breakfast we went to see the 3 waterfalls of Cain, Mawdach, and Dolmalyntlyn, with Mr. Reveley. There was a dinner party at Bryn y givin consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Edwards, Mr. and Mrs. Williams, and Mr. Richards a son of the chief Baron and very clever. ( 0 ).

Saturday Sep 26. We got up at 4 o'clock and went off in a chaise to Beddgillert with William thro Tanybwek and port Aberglaslyn. At Beddgillert we met Brougham who came to meet us from Caernarvon. We got ponies and went to the foot of Snowdon with him. We ascended it on foot but found it so cloudy at the top that we saw nothing; but part of the ascent was beautiful. We descended on the other side to Llanberys and dined at an Inn there. We then set out in a heavy rain to walk 8 miles to Caernarvon where I put up at the hotel with Fremantle. ( 0 ).

(54) Caernarvon Sep 27 – Oct 2. 1818 Wimbledon.

Sunday Sep 27. Fremantle and I bathed in a machine at 11. We breakfasted with Brougham in his lodgings at Mrs. Rathbones. We walked about in quest of Lodgings for Fremantle with intends to remain here for some time, and then took a ride in the country. We went to see the old Castle, in which was a curious old woman. We dined at the hotel and sat talking and settling plans in the evening. Brougham went away at 11. ( 0 ).

Monday Sep 28. We hired ponies and after breakfasting at the hotel we set off for Conway. We dined at a very good Inn at Aber. We passed over the Meyney and saw Lord Angleseas house at Plas Newidd, and a great deal of fine scenery. We came to the Harp Inn, Conway, where miserable as it was, a party of reading Cambridge men were established under Cecil of Magdalene; among them were Platt, Owen, Goode and other scums. We had a pretty good harper in the evening. ( 0 ).

Tuesday Sep 29. We breakfasted to the sound of the harp, and then took horse and passed the ferry, after having examined the old Castle which I think far superior to Caernarvon Castle. We went thro Llanrwst to Capel Curig in some of the finest scenery that I have ever seen in Wales, particularly in the last part of the ride, in which we came to a beautiful waterfall on the side of the road. ( On the road from Bangor to Conway we passed Penman Maur ). We came to Capel Curig at 4 in order to intercept a coach to London for me, but I found I had a place in the Mail, so we walked out and came to a lake where I persuaded Fremantle to bathe; Brougham would not. We dined at 7 and had an indifferent harper. I settled affairs. At 11 I parted with my two friends and took the Mail to London. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Sep 30. Still in the Mail. Went thro the beautiful vale of Llangollen in the dark last night; but it can't be helped. We breakfasted at Shrewsbury and dined at Birmingham. Coach quite full this evening and almost all night.

Thursday Oct 1. Arrived at the Post Office at 7. Came to St. Jamess Place. Had some breakfast and dressed for shooting. Went to Wimbledon in a chaise and breakfasted again with Father and Mother. Stanhope and Duncannon came to shoot. We had not quite as much sport as was expected, but it was pretty good. Dined at 6. Lady Duncannon was also there. In the evening we did nothing. ( 0 ).

Friday Oct 2. Stanhope and I went to shoot rabbits at Combe Warren, but had bad sport. My Father was gone to Town on business. In the evening we played at whist.

Wimbledon Oct 3 – Oct 10 1818. Althorp. ( 55)

Saturday Oct 3. It was very rainy but we went out shooting for some time. After coming in, Stanhope and I had some games at Billiards. After dinner played at whist. I am reading the Heart of Midlothian and like it much; but still prefer Old Mortality. ( 0 ).

Sunday Oct 4. We all went to church and heard Mr. Lindsay. I hardly went out all day except a walk with my Father to the stables. Read my novel till late. Stanhope went away this evening.

Monday Oct 5. We went out shooting till 4 o'clock. I then went with my Father to London where my Mother had gone in the morning. We dined there and went to the play at Covent Garden to see Mr. Farren in Sir Bashfull Constant, a new and very good actor in genteel comedy. Lord Essex was in the Box. ( 0 )

Tuesday Oct 6. After breakfast I went to call on Hibbert, but he has left his lodgings, and so I wrote to Clapham to ask him to Wimbledon tomorrow, but I fear the letter will not find him. At 12 I returned with my Mother. I wrote letters and read my novel till dinner. There was a party here of the Duke of Devonshire, Lord Essex, Mr. Rogers, Mr. Lindsay, and Mr. Sabine a famous agriculturist. They all went away this evening. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Oct 7. Duncannon again came to shoot. We came in to dinner. I finished the Heart of Midlothian. I heard from Blomfield that he has negotiated a change of tutor for me from Evans to Peacock. I retired at 11 but did not go to bed till 1. ( 0 ).

Thursday Oct 8. I went out shooting alone with my Father. It was a beautiful day. we left off at **ibets lodge and went to London to dinner, whither my Mother had gone before. We went to Covent garden and saw the Rivals, in which Mr. Farren acted admirably. Mr. Sabine was in the box with us. We came back before the farce. ( 0 ).

Friday Oct 9. After breakfast a man of the name of Mackie came to teach my Mother to bind books. I staid looking on till one. It is the same person that set off the fashion of shoemaking. At 1 George Hibbert came to see me, I walked with him different ways, and at last we went up to Lothbury, where I had money business at Joness bank. He left me on the way back to go to Clapham. We dined as usual. And after dinner my Father and Mother played at piquette while I read the Quarterly. ( 0 ).

Saturday Oct 10. At 9 we set off for Althorp, in the old stile. We arrived there at 5 and dined. In the evening I settled to nothing . I slept in No. 5 as usual.

(56) Althorp. Oct 11. Oct 18. 1818

The dining room here has been greatly enlarged, and both that and the drawing room have been newly papered etc. ( 0 )

Sunday Oct 11. I got up and walked a little before breakfast. At 11 my Father and I went to church, he on horse back, I on foot. I staid to take the Sacrament. I remained after that for some time with my Father and Mother who are making plans for a new library. At 3 I retired to read upstairs, nearly till dinner time. After dinner we talked and I read some Quarterly till I went upstairs.

Monday Oct 12. I went out shooting partridges alone with Christopher and Ben Chowler, as my Father was gone to the yeomanry meeting at Northampton. He came back to dine. After dinner I read the Quarterly. ( 0 ).

Tuesday Oct 13. I went out shooting again as yesterday, but with better success. I came back at 1/2 past 5 and found Mr. Grenville and Fremantle come together from Wynnstag, where they had met. In the evening the box of implements for book binding came, and we unpacked it. I also read some Quarterly. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Oct 14. At 11 Fremantle and I went out with the two Chowlers partridge shooting. I shot better than usual with my crooked guns. We came in by dinner time, and in the evening played at whist. ( 0 ).

Thursday Oct 15. Fremantle and I went out shooting with Ben Chowler at Brington, but without good luck. In the evening I used my Mothers tools for bookbinding, and began binding some pamphlets together. I went upstairs about 12. ( 0 ).

Friday Oct 16. I staid in till 1/2 past 12 bookbinding as it rained. After which Fremantle and I rode to Dallington, and met my Father who returned from the yeomanry to shoot in the Spiney there. We had capital sport for 2 1/2 hours, and then came home to dinner. We played at whist in the evening. At 11 we retired, but Fremantle sat some time in my room. ( 0 ).

Saturday Oct 17. Fremantle and I were late for breakfast, but 11 we set off out shooting. We had a great many shots but got very little game. My Father was gone to Northampton on business. We returned at 1/4 past 5 from Althorp's farm house and I lost the way, but we recovered it again and came in time for dinner. Althorp was come from Wiseton. He seems in pretty good spirits but does not look well. In the evening we played at whist. This days journal completes a year from the time that I began to keep my history. It has indeed been an important year in my life; the first in which I have been my own master and have I fear settled my character, with all its faults. Several things which I have both done and left undone I shall never cease regretting. I have only to thank God that there is not more reason for regrets.
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(56 cont.)

With my reading upon the whole I am as well satisfied as I ever expected. ( 0 ).

Sunday Oct 18. Mr. Grenville, my Father, Fremantle and I went to church. My Mother and Althorp did not. Afterwards I played at billiards with Mr. Grenville, read a sermon, and went out walking with Fremantle about the Park. I sat down stairs in the evening till 11.

Althorp Oct 19. Oct 25. 1818 Cambridge (57)

Monday Oct 19. About 11 we went shooting about the Holdenby Spiney etc., but did not kill so much as we had expected. Mr. Vigoureux dined with us. In the evening we played at whist in turns, except my Mother. I sat downstairs talking with Fremantle who is going away tomorrow till nearly 12. ( 0 )

Tuesday Oct 20. Mr. Grenville and Fremantle went away early this morning. My Father and I went to shoot at Harpole Hills where Mr. Bouverie met us. We returned at 1/2 past 4, and I remained an hour with my Mother who has an ear ache. Althorp was gone on farming business and returned to dinner. In the evening we played at whist. ( 0 ).

Wednesday Oct 21. Shot again with Mr. Bouverie at Holdenby. It was a beautiful day and we had pretty sport. Althorp gone to Mr. Arbuthnots at Woodford, but came back to dinner. Whist in the evening. ( 0 ).

Thursday Oct 22. At 11 o'clock I set off from Althorp with my Father who was going to attend the Quarter Sessions at Northampton. I went from thence in a post chaise 1st. to Wellingborough 11 miles, Thrapston 10, Huntingdon 17, Cambridge 15, at which latter I arrived about 7. I went to Barnardistons rooms and had tea, and after him I went for a 2d. edition at Fortescues where Neville was also just arrived. I returned to beds about 11. ( 0 ).

Friday Oct 23. At 1/2 past 8 I went into Peacocks lectures for the 2d. year which began yesterday. I then went and called on Hustler who asked me to dinner today, and on Brougham. I attempted Evans, but he was not at home. At 12 I went on a horse of Baxters to Chesterford, and saw Blomfield and Miss B., and the pupils. The place improved and pretty. I returned at 4 and went to see Stopford, who I found had a wine party. I was too late for Chapel; at 6 I went to Hustlers dinner where I was at the bottom of the table. I met Mr. and Mrs. Broadhead with their son, Mr. and Mrs. Barker, Edin, and Sir Charles Smith, a new Fellow Commoner! We four undergraduates played at whist. I came away at 11. ( 1 ).

Saturday Oct 24. I went to lectures at 1/2 past 8 and to Peacock at 12. I the mean while I read a little and walked about visiting with Fortescue. A little before dinner I went to call on Evans, who was my tutor but is so no longer. We did not mention the tender subject. I dined in hall, and wined with Barnardiston, and met Stopford, Broadhead, and Briner. I again was shut out from Chapel, so I read from 6 onwards, but very badly. ( 4 hours ).

Sunday Oct 25. I went to Chapel, breakfasted alone, and went to All Saints church where Mr. Lamb preached. I then walked with Fiott, Thynne, Fortescue etc., and went to St. Marys. I called on Neville who asked me to dine with him and Fortescue which I did at 5. I came to chapel after dinner and returned to Magdalene till 9 when I went to see my Father who had come to the Sun till 11.
(58) Cambridge Oct 26 – Nov 1 1818

Monday Oct 26. My Father breakfasted with me; so I missed lectures. Blomfield and Moreton came to meet him. We went all together to Magdalene. Called on Neville and went to lionise the Pepysian. I returned and read on went out till Hall. It was a feast day for the accession , so Fortescue came in with one. We went into Combination till chapel. After chapel I went to Graham and talked about the Declamations, as Judgson has announced to me the awful news that he and I are soon to declaim. I went to Peacock at 7 till 9. I could not read as I have a bad tooth ache. ( 4 hours ).

Tuesday Oct 27. I went to lectures and at ten I went to Evans where Graham was to choose a subject for declamation with him. We fixed on "the comparative merits of Charles V and Francis I. I went to Peacock at 12. I went out afterwards and walked about the town with various intents. Dined in Hall and went to wine with Stopford, where there were Knox and Graham and Pratt. I went to chapel and then to Judgson with Graham to give our subject. We tossed up for sides and I got Charles V to defend. I came home then to read. ( 4 hours ).

Wednesday Oct 28. I went to lectures. At 12 I went to Divinity lectures with Stopford. I walked a little with him and with Fortescue, and called with him on Procter of Cath. Hall. I dined in Hall and then read in the evening, and went to Chapel. ( 6 hours ). I went to Peacock at 7 in the evening.

Thursday Oct 29. There were no lectures so I breakfasted with Stopford and met Uniacke for the first time, and I hope the last. I went to Peacock at 10. At 2 I went for the 4th or 5th time to call on Griffith and found him at home. I walked with him till Hall. He dined in it with Hustler. After dinner I read till 9 when I went to a club supper at which were 12 members. Thynne Presid.t not quite so noisy as usual. ( 6 hours ).

Friday Oct 30. I went to lectures and at 11 set off with Stopford and Thynne to Newmarket. There were no great number of Cambridge men there. Croft and Kindersley rode rode back with us. Thynne Stopford and I dined at the Bird at 6 after I had been to Chapel. I went to Peacock at 8. ( 3 hours ).

Saturday Oct 31. I went to lectures and to Peacock at 12. I then went out and met Fortescue and Ld. Braybook to whom he introduced me. If my declamation does not interfere, I hope to meet my Father at Audley End in about a fortnight. I walked also with Villiers and Stuart. I dined in Hall and gave wine to Stopford, Graham, Broadhead, Barnardiston, and Sir Charles Smith, then went to chapel and read till 12 in Robertson etc. ( 7 hours ).

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(58 cont.)

Sunday Nov. 1. I went to chapel. Gambier and Stevenson breakfasted with me. I went to All Saints, and afterwards walked with Stopford, Barnardiston, and Smith, and then went with Fortescue, with whom I dined at Magdalene. I went to St. Marys in the evening and heard Rennel of Kings. Thynne, Fielding, Barnardiston, Peacock and Sedgewick dined at Magdalene. Also I came back to

Cambridge Nov 2 Nov 6 1818 (59)

Chapel, and returned to tea with Fortescue. I came home at 9.

Monday Nov 2. I went to lectures. At 12 I went to Divinity lectures and gigled with Edin. I then walked with Stopford, and then with Fiott. I dined in Hall ( it was a feast day), and went to wine with Fiott; met Gambier, Stopford, Sir John Johnson, Inge of St. Johns, Proby and Nicholson. I played at whist and came home at 9. I went to Peacock at 2 till Hall. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Nov 3. I went to lectures and then went to see Brougham, with whom I breakfasted. I came back and went to Peacock at 12, but he rejected me, so I did not go at all. At 2 I called on Griffith and walked about with him till 4, when I dined in Emmanuel Hall and wined tete atete with him. I then came home and dressed and took tea at Fiotts with Gambier, Fortescue and Edin on the way to Mrs. Freres rout, where we all went. It began by a concert and ended in a ball. I never heard Mrs. Frere sing before and was delighted. I danced with Anne and Fanny Mansell, and one Quadrille with Miss Hollum. I enjoyed myself very well indeed. I came home about 3. ( 4 hours ).

Wednesday Nov 4. I went to lectures and breakfasted alone. I then went to talk to Monk about a manuscript of Miltons which I am offering to the College. Blomfield came while I was there with Miss B. and 5 pupils. I walked about with them till 1 when I took Moreton into Hall. At 2 I went to the Senate House where Neville was introduced as Vicechancellor and made his speech. The undergraduates clapped him and hissed Webbe who resigned the office to him. I came to Peacocks at 7. I went to Chapel where Olivant and Arnold declaimed. The formers was the best I have yet heard there. I would bet on his getting both prises as Waddington did last year. I here avow that I have no hope of getting one. I went to cards and supper with Broadhead, and met Taylor, Barnardiston, Stopford, Smith, Beaumont, Secker, Crowder, and Trail. I came home at 12. ( 3 hours ).

Thursday Nov 5. I went to morning Chapel. There were no lectures, but I went to Peacock at 10. I walked with Gambier to call on Mrs. Frere, and elsewhere for an hour before Hall. I wined with Smith and met Stopford and others. I went to chapel, after which I drank tea alone and wrote some declamation. ( 7 hours ).

Friday Nov 6. I went to lectures, and to Divinity at 12. After which I walked with Stevenson and Guthrie to Dr. Clarkes and back, and then with Brougham. At 3 I went to Peacock with whom also I dined at 5 and met Mr. Francis Catravellen, Hughes, Cummings, G. Watkin, Sedgewick, 2 Musgroves, Judgson,

(60) Cambridge Nov 7 – Nov 12 1818

and Mr. Gregory, myself being the only undergraduate. I played a rubber and came home at 11 and 1/2. ( 5 hours ).

Saturday Nov 7. I had a cold so I lay in bed till 10. At 12 I went to Peacock. I walked with Hyde Villiers, and Fortescue, called on Stapleton etc., and went into Hall. I went to chapel where Kindersley and Rawlinson declaimed in Latin. Brougham teaed with me and sat till 8. I then wrote a little. ( 6 hours ).

Sunday Nov 8. I went to Chapel and breakfasted with Stevenson and met Kindersley, Sudell, Williams, Wilkinson, Hodgson, Taylor, Guthrie and Gambier. I walked with the 4 last and Stevenson to Madinlay, and returned by 2. I went to St. Marys and heard Rennel preach. I then went with Gambier to Kings Chapel and dined with him, Guthrie and Hodgson at the Bird. I came back to chapel, and sat the evening alone.

Monday Nov 9. I went at 8 o'clock to breakfast with Dr. Davy of Caius, and met Keppel and Russell, freshmen of his college. We sat discussing some of Dr. Davys positions till 10. I then walked a little with Russell and brought him to my rooms. At 12 I went to Peacock. Barnardiston was also there. At 1/2 past 2 Stapleton called on me. We walked to see the wild beasts which are now exhibiting here. I dined with him at the Bird, and came home at 4. About 6 Gambier came and drank tea with me, and sat a little while. In the evening I again went to Peacock. ( 8 hours ).

Tuesday Nov 10. I went to lectures and to Peacock at 12. With Barnardiston at 1, I walked with Gambier to Griffiths where Stevenson joined us. We then walked all three in the Fellows round about, and other places. I took another 1/2 hour with Peacock and went at 1/2 past 5 to dine with Neville. I met Monk, Griffith, Crawley, Hughes, Lawson, Palk, Mr. Hodgekinson, and Duckingfield, an old Etonian. I returned after playing a rubber at whist about 10.

Wednesday Nov 11. I went to lectures and to Divinity lectures at 12. At 4 I went to Peacock, I went to Chapel, and at 6 I dined with Graham and met Gurdon, Townsend, Fox and Thynne. I played at whist and returned late.

Thursday Nov 12. I went to lectures and to Peacock at 11. I walked about with different people, I went to Chapel and dined with Stevenson. I met there Long, Taylor, Townsend of Trin Hall, Hall, Steinforth, Guthrie, Hodgson, Power with a brother, Brougham, Gambier, Griffith, Hildyard, and Fiott.

Cambridge Nov 13 – Nov 18 1818 (61)

I played at whist, and came home at 11 and 1/2.

Friday Nov 133. I went to lectures and to Divinity **. After which I sauntered about with Russel, Edin, Villiers etc., etc., till Hall, as it was Matriculation day. This is always the longest morning in the year. I dined in Hall, and then walked till 5 with Drewe. I went to chapel, and sat at home in the evening.

Saturday Nov 14. I went to lectures. At 11 Peacock took me to the Woodwardian Museum with Barnardiston. Sedgwick was there, and we looked over a great many of his minerals. At 2 I got a post chaise and went to Chesterford where I expected to meet my Father, but he was ill in Norfolk and could not come. I dined and slept there, and in the evening Blomfield read through my Declamation and told me the faults. I retired at 11, after some music and singing with Miss B.

Sunday Nov 15. ( Chesterford ). Got up to breakfast at 9. Walked in the garden and went to church at 11. Sat with Miss Blomfield. My Father came here about 3 looking very ill I thought. We both went together to Audley End, at 4, where we dined at 6. There were there Lord Braybook, Miss Neville, Mr. Duckingfield and Mr. Hodgekinson. We went to bed at about 11. I like Lord Braybook very much.

Monday Nov 16. We breakfasted at 10. There is Chapel here every morning at 9 1/2 but I missed it today. Mr. Hodgekinson is chaplain. My Father was so unwell that he is gone up to Town today, which I am very glad of, for his sake. It rained till 1, then Ld. B.k and I went out shooting in some small plantations, and had very pretty sport. Lord and Lady Mark Kerr and Miss Kerr came today, and Mr. Henry Bouverie. Blomfield also came to dine with Moreton and Nugent, and went back in the evening. Mr. Richard Neville is here now.

Tuesday Nov 17. Fine day, I went to the Chapel in the house at 1/2 past 9. After breakfast we went out shooting, in a party of 6 guns, and had pretty good sport. After dinner, at about 10, I came back to Cambridge in a post chaise, and arrived at 1. But I expect to go to Audley End again, for Lord B. promised to send for me when he has a good ba****.

Wednesday Nov 18. I got up at ten and missed lectures. I staid in learning my declamation till 2, when Fox called, and we walked together till Hall, where I

(62) Cambridge Nov 19 Nov 22. 1818

dined. I came home after Hall to look over my Declamation for the last time. About 1/4 to 6 I went to Graham, and with him marched to Chapel, where we spouted our respective orations, he first and I 2d. It was not near as formidable a business as I expected, but I did not repeat it quite to my satisfaction; for I bungled a little and left out a part, which I meant to speak. Judgson afterwards said that I had not spoken quite loud enough, but it cannot be helped now. I should be surprised but delighted if I got one of the prises. It is quite a lottery, but I think I may have a chance. I went to Peacock after tea for my tutoring. Today I heard of the Queens death which happened yesterday.

Thursday Nov 19. There were no lectures. I went to Peacock for an hour at 10. At 11 I went to Chapel and took the Sacrament. The Bishop read and so it was done decently at least, which can hardly be said when the Vice Master reads. Afterwards I called on Russell, and then met Stevenson and walked with him a littel, and saw Gambier in his rooms. I dined in Hall and came home till 6 when I went with Russel to Professor Smyth to tea, and missed Chapel. I want to get admission to Smyths concerts, and as I had told this to Russel who knows him, he recommended me and introduced to him now. We sat talking various subjects over for 3 hours. He is a very agreeable man when he chooses. In returning we met Greville and went to see his rooms in St. Johns, after which I came home at 10, and went to bed at 2.

Friday Nov 20. I went to lectures, and to Peacock at 11 with Barnardiston. At 12 to Divinity lectures. I then walked down to Magdalene with Palk and saw Fortescue. I then returned to Peacock till 3. I then walked with Russell and Drewe, and lunched at Litchfields. At 1/4 past 5 I dined with Neville, and met Griffith, Fortescue, Lodge, G. Villiers, Stopford, Russel, Blane, Francis of Caius, Col. Chichester and young Chichester. ( 4 hours ).

Saturday Nov 21. I went to lectures. At 12 I went to Peacock. At 2 1/2 walked with Fiott; at 1/2 past 5 went to dine with Fortescue, and met Drewe, Fox, Fiott, Eden, Col. Chichester, his son, Fellowes, Lodge. At 91/2 Drewe and Fox and I walked off to Downing where Gurdon gave a card party to all the fine people of the university. I came back with Stopford and Stapleton, and got home about 12. ( 5 hours ).

Sunday Nov 22. I went to Chapel, and breakfasted with Barnardiston, and met Stopford, Broadhead, and Bennet ( a little 2 foot man ). I went to All Saints, and walked till 2 with Smith about the town. Randel of Queens preached at All Saints, extempore, in the most disgraceful way. I wrote to my Mother, and then heard Bennet at St. Marys. I dined in Magdalene Hall. There were there as strangers Hutchinson, Allanson of Christs,

Cambridge Nov 23 Nov 28. 1818 (63)

Blunt, and Mr. Hole; I came home to Chapel, and then returned to drink tea alone with Neville. I sat talking to him till past 11, and then came home. He talked to me about having a fellowship of his college when I have taken my degree. My Mother proposed it to him a good while ago. I think I shall like the scheme very much.

Monday Nov 23. I did not go to lectures, but I went to Peacock before and after the divinity lectures. Walked with Grenville and Drewe. I dined in Hall, and sat in after it till Chapel. I drank tea with Stopford alone, as we used to do in old times; at least as old as this time last year, but we are neither of us like what we were then, ( I fear ). I then came home, but I set off again, and walked to Jesus college but did not find Brougham. Returned apraktos < GREEK > and sat reading till past 1. I was today elected into the Eton club. ( 9 hours ).

Tuesday Nov 24. I went to lectures – at 12 went to Peacock. At 2 I walked down to Magdalene, and sat for some time with Fortescue, and took a walk with him about the town. Dined in Hall; wined with Stopford and met Drewe, Pratt, and Sayer. Went to Chapel and went to Peacock a little in the evening. ( 8 hours ).

Wednesday Nov 25. I went to lectures. At 12 to Divinity lectures ( 8 times this term ), afterwards walked alone and called on Griffith etc.; till about 3, then came home till 4 went to Peacock for an hour, and at 6 went to dine with Drewe, and met Thynne, his brother Henry, 2 Wodehouses, Murdoch, Stapleton, Macgennis. At ten they all went to sup with Bligh, so I took a little walk and came home.

Thursday Nov 26. I went to lectures, and I went to Peacock at 12 till 1. I then went to call on Stapleton, and Brougham. Dined in Hall. Went to chapel and came home till 9. Then went to Peacock for a little while, came back, went to sleep on my sofa and did not go to bed till 3.

Friday Nov 27. Got up after 9 and missed lectures. Tried Peacock at 11 and was refused admittance, went to Divinity lectures, and then walked about a long time with Smith; saw Blomfield and Moreton for 5 minutes who were come over to a book sale. Dined with Neville and met Dr. Procter of Cath. Hall, Jimmy Wood, Leicester of Kings, Carr of Trinity, Fortescue, Crawley, Griffith, Sedgwick, and Whitaker of St. Johns. I played a rubber and staid alone with Neville after all the rest were gone, till past 11, then came home to bed. The Eton Club dinner was today. But the Vicechancellor is a sufficient excuse for it.

Saturday Nov 28. I went to lectures and to Peacock as usual. I dined in Hall and went to Chapel. Afterwards I read till 1,

(64) Cambridge Nov 29. Dec 3 1818

very steadily. I walked a little with Russell after Hall. ( 9 hours ).

Sunday Nov 29. I went to chapel and breakfasted at the Hoop with the Eton Club. I then came home and wrote letters. Walked with Stevenson till Hall, which I went to against my custom. I then went to St. Marys after a little walk with Edin and Barnardiston. I went to Chapel in the Evening and then walked to Magdalene where Fortescue had asked me to tea, but his door being sported I went to Griffith and drank tea there with Smith of St. Johns. I came home about 1/2 past 9.

Monday Nov 30. I went to lectures and to Peacock for 1/2 an hour before 12 when I went to Divinity lectures. At 2 I went riding towards Shelford and round by the hills with Smith, on a brute of a horse of Lyntons. We came home at 4 1/2. I then dressed and went for an hour to Peacock. At 6 dined with Evans, and met Graham, Smith, Peacock, Crawley, Monk, Hustler, Stevenson. I played at whist and came home at 11, and walked about the Cloisters with Smith and then alone, as I did this day last year with Bridgeman.

Tuesday Dec 1. I missed lectures; but went to Peacock at 1. At 12 I went with Smith to the Fitzwilliam, and the public Library. After Peacock I came home till 1/2 past 4. I went to see Fiott and then went a little out of the town. I came home, dressed, and went at 6 to dine with Palk, and met Griffith, Crawley, Fortescue, Edin, Fiott, Barnardiston, Gambier, and Tom Croft. I played at whist and came home at 12. ( I made a great fool of myself today ).

Wednesday Dec 2. This is the day of the Queens burial so there were no lectures. At 1/2 past 10 I went to Peacock for some time. At 12 I went out and wandered about for an hour. I then found Fortescue and walked with him. I came home at a little after 3, went to chapel and heard Barnardiston declaim, but rather poorly. I then came home and gave dinner to Drewe, Fox, Stapleton, Greville, Russel, Pratt, Edin. All but Pratt, Edin and Stapleton went away early, but they staid to play at whist. They all made an enormous row, and I too by the bye.

Thursday Dec 3. I went to lectures. I then walked with Barnardiston to the Senate House and went to Peacock at 1. Then went out again and called on Dr. Clarke. I went at 3 and sat an hour with G. Villiers who is ill. At 6 I went to dine with Dr. Procter of Cath. Hall, and met Fortescue, G. A. Browne, Mr. and Mrs Huilstone, Mr. and Mrs. Caldwell, Leicester Ehclenondiley and Slingsby of Kings and Miss something also. I did not play at whist but came home at 11.

Cambridge Dec 4, Dec 10, 1818 (65)

Friday Dec 4. I did not get up to lectures. I went to the Divinity lec. and walked about from 1 till 2 with Edin and Drewe. Went to Hall at 2 as it was a feast day for the audit. Then rode with Drewe on the Madinglay rode till chapel. After chapel went to Peacock. At 9 went to play at whist and sup with Fiott, and met Palk, Croft, Crawley, Kemp of St. Johns, Forster, Inge, Godfrey of Do., Dixon of Trin H., and a Mr. Mitton. Came away between 11 and 12.

Saturday Dec. 5. I went to lectures, and to Peacock at 12. At 2 I set off riding on Smiths horse towards the hills and across to Shelford. I was too late for Hall, and so I dined alone at the Bird and Baby. I then walked about the town for some time, and came to chapel, where our organ played for the first time this term. This evening Mr. Mawman came to see me. While he was here Stapleton came to announce the ascent of his ballon, so at 8 I went to his rooms, and from thence with an enormous levy of Jornans to Parkers piece where it went up. I then returned and played at whist with Smith, Graham, and Fielding, and eat oisters.

Sunday Dec 6. I went to chapel, then Smith and Stopford breakfasted with me. We went to St. Marys and heard Marsh Bishop of Llandaff preach a very poor funeral sermon on the Queen. I then walked with Fortescue for a long time. At 4 I went and dined in Magdalene Hall. Came to Chapel where there was a funeral anthem, and a tremendous crowd. I drank tea with Fiott and met Gambier, Guthrie, Hodgson, Croft, Stopford, Crawley, and De Crepigny of Trin. H. I then went to the club rrom with Stopford and saw Russel and Stapleton. Came home at ten.

Monday Dec 7. I got up by 8, and went in a tandem with Edin to Stratham Bridge, where we went out from 10 till 1 on the fen with a man, but did not get a bird. Edin shot at one snipe and missed it. I came back in time for Hall. I did not go to chapel, but went to Peacock about 6, and sat in the rest of the evening.

Tuesday Dec 8. I went to lectures. I then breakfasted and cleaned my gun. I sat in till 3, then went out for an hour. I missed Chapel. At 6 I went to dine with Tom Croft, and met Gambier, Crawley, Edin, Kindersley, Hildyard, Beverley, and another anonumos < GREEK >. At 9 I left him and went to tea and supper at the Lodge. There were there only 2 Hustlers, Gentleman Peacock, Griffith, Fiott, John Browne, and Rennel of Kings. We danced country dances, and broke up at 1. A pleasant party.

Wednesday Dec 9. Got up at 10 ! Went to Peacock at 12. Went out walking at 2 with Gambier on the Huntingdon road. Went again to Peacock at 4. Went to chapel and dined with Barnardiston to meet Stopford, Arcedeckne, Blunt, Brimer, Bulver, Smith, Nepean and Bowman; I played at whist and came out at 1. I had locked myself out of my room, so I got David to let me out and went to Turner and < DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

(65 cont.)

got one. Afterwards I made a noise about the court for an hour with Blunt and Barnardiston.

Thursday Dec 10. I got up at 9. Went to Peacock at 11. Went out at 2, met Greville and walked with him and Fortescue. Went to Chapel and then gave

(66) Cambridge Dec 11 Dec 15 1818

a dinner to Gambier, Griffith, Fiott, Hildyard, Croft, Kindersley, and Stevenson. Crawly and Palk forgot to come. We played at whist till very late; one party of us went on till 1/2 past 2. So I shall not be in bed till 3.

Friday Dec 11. I went to lectures and to Peacock at 12 for some time. I then went and walked with Stevenson to Granchester till 3, then came home and went again to Peacock at 1/2 past 4. At 1/2 past 5 I went to dine with Neville and met Griffith, Fortescue, John Browne, Pearce the proctor, Lodington of Clare H., Bishop Marsh and Mrs. Marsh, Miss Keening, and Miss Neville who is come from Audley End to him. I came away with Griffith at 10 and went to a ball at the Black Lion where I danced with Miss Bella and Fanny Mansell. It was very badly attended. I returned at 3 having gone to Emman. with Griffith to fetch my gown which I had left there.

Saturday Dec. 12. I did not go to lectures; but went at 12 to Peacock. I went out walking with Smith and Arcedeckne. (Vid sup. Dec 1). I then came home for some time. At 6 I dined with Graham and met Fox, Smith, Sunmer, Fielding and Pratt. I staid and played a rubber and came home at 11.

Sunday Dec 13. I missed morning Chapel as it was at 7 instead of 8. I went at 10 to breakfast with Pratt and met Graham, Stopford and Fielding. I went to All Saints and heard a most disgraceful sermon from Mandell of Queens. I then walked about with Fiott. At 4 I went to dine with Griffith in Emman. Hall. He walked with me to our chapel. I went to tea at Fiotts with Stopford, Gambier, Kemp, Johnson, Nicholson, De Crepigny, Fortescue, Stevenson, Guthrie and Proby. After this Guthrie, Hildyard and I went to have some little supper in Gambiers room; and sat talking till 1/2 past 11.

Monday Dec 14. I did not get up to lectures altho the last day, and I had intended it. I tried Peacock at 12; but was repulsed and had to go again at 4. From 1/2 past 2 till then I walked with Brougham towards Granchester. I just saw George Hibbert and Bob Palk who came to visit us today. I dined with Neville and met Edin, Hind, and Leicester of Kings, Dr. Davy and Woodhouse of Caius, and Bobby Hole. They all went away before ten. I staid with Neville till 11.

Tuesday Dec 15. I got up before 9. Blomfield, Moreton and Abbott breakfasted with me. I then went to chapel, were Renouard preached the commemoration sermon, and Waddington declaimed, as having been first prizeman. I then walked about very wretchedly and bored, till it was time to dress, when I left Moreton and Abbott at the Bird, and came home. I went into Hall with them at 2. I received a prise among my fellows from Monk; the great object of my labour < DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

(66 cont.)

for one year. I chose a Thucydides. We went into Combination room
till 7. I then came home till Blomfield went away, and at 1/2 past 8 I got to the town Hall where Professor Haynes had a concert. I worked my way

Cambridge Dec 16 Dec 21. 1818 Althorp (67)

up to Griffith and the Mansells, and came back at 10 in their carriage to supper at the Lodge with Griffith, Rennel, Thorpe and Peacock. The Bishop was not there. Fanny Mansell gave me some drawings tonight. I was bilious all day, and very miserable in consequence of a circumstance which happened to me on Saturday to my shame, but I have experience by it, and shall be benefited, if it does but go off now.

Wednesday Dec 16. At ten I gave breakfast to George Hibbert, Bob Palk, Gambier and Hildyard. After that we all walked to see Fortescue at Magdalene. Gambier and I then struck off and went across country to Cocton, and came back at 4. I then went out to do business, and came in at 1/2 past 5 to dine with Hildyard, and met Hibbert, Palk, Griffith, Gambier, Brougham, and Fiott. Fortescue came in the evening. We played a vast number of rubbers at whist and I came away at 1/4 before 4.

Thursday Dec 17. I got up at 10 and went to Fiotts, where we were to breakfast all together, but nobody being come I returned to Peacock till near twelve. I then came to breakfast, and then walked to Granchester with Gambier and Fiott. Hibbert and Palk set off in a chaise at 11. At 4 I went for an hour to my room to pack up, and at 5 I went to dine at Fiotts with him and Gambier. I came back again to pack up at 7 and then played at whist with those two and Hildyard till 1/2 past 1. He then set off in a coach and I went to bed at the George Inn.

Friday Dec 18. I set off in Tophams coach at 1/2 past 5 to Northampton. Earle and Proby got up at Huntingdon. We arrived about 2 and I found my Father there and came to Althorp with him. There were here the Vernons, the Lyttletons and the Duncannons, each with ***********************, and Althorp. We dined at 6. In the evening I had nothing to do, but to look at people playing at whist.

Saturday Dec 19. We breakfasted at 1/2 past 9, and then went in the carriage to shoot at Huntsbury Hill with Bouverie. Duncannon and I rode back. The evening I spent as yesterday.

Sunday Dec 20. I went to church and heard Vigoureux again, with Lyttleton and Harris. I then rode with Althorp and Duncannon to his farm at Brampton and went on alone to Pitsford to see Bob Grosvenor, who is much altered in size and look. He leaves Wright for good tomorrow, and goes to Oxford after Xmas. I lost my way coming back thro the same country that I did with Fremantle on the 17th. October last, but I came in time for chapel at 5. Vigoreux dined here. In the evening I played at billiards.

Monday Dec 21. My birthday! 19 years old. After breakfast Sarah played and sung to me. We then went to shoot at Dallington. Mr. Grenville, and Lord and Lady Bessborough came today to dinner. In the evening I looked over the whist players as before.
(68) Althorp Dec 22 1818, Jan 2 1819

Tuesday Dec 22. At 11 we set off with a large body to beat Nobottle Wood, but we did not kill as much as we expected. I bagged 2 wood cocks. I tired myself completely between today and yesterday, and I took some physic in the evening.

Wednesday Dec 23. My Father and Althorp went to Northampton to a county meeting for an address of condolence to the Prince. So there was no shooting. Althorp did not return but went on to Wiseton. I was teaching Duncannon to bind books till 2, and then walked with him round by Harlston about 7 miles. We worked at the book again before dinner. I went to bed at 12.

Thursday Dec 24. We nearly finished the book after breakfast, and then went to shoot in Chinkwell Spiney. Had pretty good sport. George Hibbert came today from Clapham to see us. My Mother asked him at Easter. In the evening I sat talking to him.

Friday Dec 25. Christmas Day. I went to church with Lyttelton, Hibbert and Duncannon, and took the Sacrament. Afterwards we played at billiards a little, and Duncannon, Hibbert and I took a walk to Harlston. There was chapel in the house at 5. Col. Stanhope, Col. Shawe and Fred Ponsonby came today. In the evening we played at Pope Joan.

Saturday Dec 26. Duncannon went away, much to my sorrow. We went to shoot at Harpab Hills. In the evening played at billiards.

Sunday Dec 27. I went to church in the morning, and walked with Hibbert, and played at billiards. Chapel at 5. Mr. Murray, Lady Anne Murray, and Georgiana Bingham came today. The last is grown very affected. We played at Rockets in the evening. Mr. Rogers also came.

Monday Dec 28. We went to shoot in Blackthorn Spiney. I read a little Mathematics today. Mr. Dibdin, Petre and Bliss came to dinner. In the evening we did nothing but look at prints till late. Then Stanhope, Hibbert, Mr. Macdonald and I had a rubber at whist. Mr. McDonald only came today.

Tuesday Dec 29. We went to Dallinton to shoot, and rode home. After dinner we had Rockets, but not whist.

Wednesday Dec 30. We shot in another part of Dallington. Stanhope, Hibbert and I walked home. Mr. Fasakerly and Luttrel came today. In the evening Rockets, and a game at whist with the same party. Mr. Macdonald was in an absurd rage at losing.

Thursday Dec 31. Hibbert went away. My Father went to Northampton, and so there was no shooting. I staid in till 3 and then took a walk with Stanhope, Vernon and Col. Shawe round by Harlestone. I worked at book binding before dinner. In the
<DIARY PAGE CONTINUES>

(68 cont.)

evening we had pope Joan, and ended the year.

—————————————————————-
Friday Jan 1. 1819. New Years day. After breakfast I heard the ladies play and sing in the Refuge as usual. The children of the school at Brington came at 12 to their annual dinner in the servants Hall. After this we went out to shoot in the park, and had a pretty days sport. Sir James Mackintosh came today. In the evening we played at Pope Joan.

Saturday Jan 2. My Father went to Northampton so we had no shooting. I sat in till 3, and then took a solo walk round the Park. Heard Sarah sing, and sat with my Mother till dressing time. In the evening we played at Speculation. Stanhope

Althorp Jan 3 Jan 12 1819 (69)

and Shawe went away this morning, and Hiber went away this evening at 11 o'clock. I am sorry for all three. Lord and Lady Bessborough also went.

Sunday Jan 3. Sarah sung to us in the morning. Mr. Dibdin read morning service in the chapel at 11 1/2, at which I was. I then played at billiards etc., and took a little walk with Murray and his wife. At 4.30 I went and heard Lady Helton read a sermon. In the evening we played at Rockets. The Murrays go tomorrow with Georgiana Bingham, I am very sorry for it. Murray and Anne I like very much.

Monday Jan 4. After breakfast I had a long tete atete with little Lavinia Vernon, who is the nicest child I ever saw. My Father, Macdonald and I then went to shoot at Hotonby. Blomfield came today from London. I had expected Fremantle but he arrived not.

Tuesday Jan 5. Today departed the Vernons, Sir James Mackintosh, Fazakerly, and McDonald, the latter to return on Friday. I went to shoot at Harbeton with many blackguard sort of people. Fremantle wrote that he would come today, but he does not appear. Old Bouverie came to dinner. In the evening I read some of Chalmers book.

Wednesday Jan 6. We shot at Dallington, and Bouverie with his son came back to dinner. Monk also arrived, but no Fremantle. I played at whist with Edward Bouverie, Dibdin and Bliss.

Thursday Jan 7. Mr. Grenville and Mr. Rogers went away. We had no shooting, so I played a great deal at billiards, and walked with Blomfield and Monk, who does not answer over well here. Fremantle came and sat with me before dinner. Lord and Lady Lansdowne also came, and McDonald returned. In the evening we played at billiards.

Friday Jan 8. At 12 Blomfield went away. Dibdin and Petrie went in the morning. We went to shoot at Wade Hill, and then Fremantle and I sat talking till dressing time. Lord and Lady King came today. In the evening billiards. Mr. Chantrey also came.

Saturday Jan 9. Mr. Bliss went away. At 1 Fremantle and I set off walking to Holdenby with our guns, but saw no game at all and got thouroughly wet. I then went up stairs till dinner. In the evening I read the Edinburgh Review and played at billiards.

Sunday Jan 10. Last night I took Collomel, and this morning a black dose; so I could not go out all day. Monk read in chapel at 5 o'clock. Mr. Luard, Dr. Fitton and Mr. Sawbridge came to dinner. In the evening we played at billiards.
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Monday Jan 11. Monk went away at 12. Lord John Russell, McDonald, and Abercrombie also went. We shot in Nobottle Wood. Sawbridge staid again to dinner. Our party at dinner was reduced to 11, and was very pleasant. I admire Lord Lansdowne. He seems the model of a nobleman, and withal good tempered and communicative. I read Boswells tour to the Hebrides in the evening.

Tuesday Jan 12. Fremantle went away this morning to Oxford, and would not stay for our ball at Northampton tonight. He would have staid at all rates, if he had known that the dear Powyss were to be there. I staid in this morning till 3 1/2, and then set off to Delapre to dine and go to the ball. Besides their own party I met Miss Cartwright, and Miss Browne there. At 9 we went to the George. Bouverie and old Isted were stewards. I was not in spirits for it before I went, but I did enjoy the ball very much. I danced with Katy Bouverie, and Mary Cartwright before supper. After supper with Henrietta and Eleanor Powys, who were here to my great surprise with Lady Lilford. Eleanor was a great flame of mine two years ago

(70) Althorp Jan 13 Jan 20 1819

at Eaton. She is not so pretty as I thought her then, but she is a delightful partner, and I was again in love, but not violently, tonight. I danced in two quadrilles. Lady Lifford asked me to Lifford, and I do not know whether I shall not contrive to go. It was about 5 when we returned to Dilapre.

Wenesday Jan 13. I did not get up till 11. Directly after breakfast I set off to meet my Father shooting at Brampton. The three Bouveries had gone before. It rained a good deal and we went home early. Lord and Lady King were gone. Mr. and Mrs. Thornton dined with us. Althorp came from Wiseton.

Thursday Jan 14. Lord and Lady Lansdowne went away. I hardly went out because of the showers, but I played at billiards with Lyttleton and Sarah. My Father and Althorp are gone to the Sessions at Northampton, so we dined only 4. At 9 I took leave of Sarah and went in my Mothers little carriage to Andrews who gives a ball tonight. I danced with Miss Elisabeth, Mrs. Evans, and Miss Kate Bouverie, and with Miss Cartwright. We had 3 quadrilles. I was delighted with Miss Cartwright, who is a pleasant unaffected girl, and I am doomed to think of her I suppose for 2 or 3 days instead of Eleanor Powys. I was provoked that she would not give me her fan at parting. I went to bed at Andrews at 6 in the morning.

Friday Jan 15. I breakfasted at Harlestone and then found that Harris had come with my horse, so I rode with him to Northampton, where I went into the Sessions court, and he found his own way back. I returned to Althorp and dined tete atete with my Mother, for the Lyttletons went this morning. I went to bed about 12 1/2. Dear Mary Cartwright; still.

Saturday Jan 16. After breakfast I had a long talk with my Mother which put her in very good humour. We then took a walk together to the garden. She told me of a plan to go abroad with them next summer, and spend the winter at Naples with Gin. Sarah had before mentioned it to me. I am delighted at the thoughts, and see no reason against its execution. My only fear is that they should consider that as enough travelling for me, without going again alone. I afterwards took another walk alone to Brington, and was very comfortable all day. My Father and Althorp returned from the Sessions and we played at whist in the evening. I like this foreign scheme also, from my wish to leave Cambridge for a good while as soon as I can, for I am tired of it, and have other sad reasons for wishing not to be there!

Sunday Jan 17. I went to church, and then walked over Vigoureuxs garden with him. I did not go out again as the weather was very stormy. We had Chapel at 5. Vigoreux and Andrew dined here. In the evening I read Fearons America etc.

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Monday Jan 18. After breakfast I played at billiards with Althorp etc. At 1 my Father, Althorp and I rode rode to the Inn at Harborough ( the Swan ) to shoot in Brampton Wood which is at about 3 miles distance. Bouverie and Edward Bouverie also came. We dined at 6 and played at whist in the evening. We called on Mrs. Buller on our road.

Tuesday Jan 19. At 10 we went to shoot in the Great Wood at Brampton and had pretty sport. We dined and spent the evening as yesterday.

Wednesday Jan 20. We went and shot in the Hermitage Wood today. I had a blank day but the others killed a good deal. Dinner and evening as before. Read Kings Anecdotes.

Althorp Jan 21 Jan 26 1819 London (71)

Thursday Jan 21. My Father and I returned to Althorp. In the carriage as far as Shadwell, and then on horseback thro Cotesbrook. Althorp parted from us to go and look at some castle, which is now his great rage. We dined atrio. After dinner I read some Edinburgh Review, and came upstairs to write to Fremantle, and did not go to bed till 1 1/2. My Mother has lately been planning a house for the parsonage at Brington which they say is to be mine when I am old enough. (What is to become of Vigoureux I know not). It might be made a most comfortable and even a pretty place; and if I live to come to it, I can figure to myself some very happy years there, with a fond partner of my joys, if I can meet with a good one. "Here then and with thee, my Eleanor" would have been my language two years ago; but how my opinions even of such important things changes with my increasing years. This thought often occurs to me, and will I hope prevent me from ever making any engagements which cannot be broken in case any fancy should be altered during the time which must elapse before the completion of them.

Friday Jan 22. At 12 my Father went out shooting, but it rained almost all the time, or rather drizzled. We dined a trio as yesterday, and in the evening worked at the catalogue. I dispatched a long letter to Fremantle which I wrote last night on the subject of the balls and the Powyses.

Saturday Jan 23. I went to Northampton in the carriage with my Father. He rode back afterwards, as he had sent his horse, but I came back in about an hour by the carriage. I called on Mrs. Kerr, and went with my Father to the Hospital. When I had returned, I took a walk alone in the Park, and sat some time with my Mother. My Father then came and told me that they had made me Cornet in the Northampton troop of yeomanry. Andrew, Rose, Mr. and Mrs. Sawbridge, Mr. H. Sawbridge, Althorp, Vigoreux, Dr. Robertson, and Tom Dundas came to dinner. The last I have not seen for a very long time. In the evening I played at billiards, and at piquette with Althorp as usual.

Sunday Jan 24. I went to church with Harris. When I returned my Father set off for Woburn. Sir Charles Knightley called on my Mother. I read one of Jortyns sermons which are excellent. In the evening I sat with my Mother and read out a sermon of Horsleys.

Monday Jan 25. It was a very rainy day. However I went out shooting to Chinkwell Spiney, but could not get my gun to go off, so I came home again. I played at billiards with my Mother and Harris. After dinner I played at Piquette with her, and read some Ovids Metamorphoses. Went upstairs at 11. Charles Chowler leaves our service tomorrow. I am sorry for his sake, altho he deserves it; but it must be a great change for him in life. It was his own choice to go away; but he had some hints of it I believe.

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Tuesday Jan 26. At 8 we set off for London; my Mother, Hislop, Harris and I were in the coach; we arrived in 9 hours and dined at 6. After which I went with Harris to Covent garden. Saw Venice Preserved in which Miss O'Neil acted admirably, and Harlequin Munchausen, which seems to me a very bad pantomine.

(72) London Jan 27 Feb 2 1819

Jan 27 Wednesday. Harris went this morning to Mr. Clarkes, a clergyman at Ducksford, 8 miles from Cambridge who is to be his private tutor. I got up at 10. After breafast Lord Camden and Brecknock came. The latter is going to return to Cambridge next week. I called on Nannette, Lady Camden, Lady Duncannon, and Mrs. Acklom, who lives in No. 38 Weymouth Street in the same house as Althorp. She did not let me in. I came home and read a little before dinner. Lady Camden, 3 daughters and Nannette dined with us. The evening passed off in talking; heavily enough.

Thursday Jan 28. After breakfast I did not go out till near 2. I then went to Chantreys, but he was not at home. Sarah came to town for an hour or two. I settled to go to her at Richmond on Sunday. I dined alone with my Mother. We went to the play and saw the School for Scandal with Mr. Peter Farren in Sir Peter Teazle, the Murrays were in the box. I came home in a hackney coach after my Mother.

Friday Jan 29. After breakfast I went to Nannette for a good while, and then walked in every part of the town almost. Saw Lizzy Vernon, Lady Bessborough etc. I went to the Opera in the evening for the first time these 6 years. I never had been but once before; and that was when Lyttleton came into my Mothers box to talk to Sarah, a year before they married. I found several people I knew, and I allied myself to George Hibbert who was there, and to Graham, and to Murray with whom I walked home.

Saturday Jan 30. It rained almost all day, so I walked very little and sat a good while with Nannette. I went to dine at Clapham with Hibbert. There were there 3 Miss Hibberts, Sir Charles and Lady Rowley, and Miss Rowley, Miss Tierney Percival, and Bob Palk. I returned the same evening to Town.

Sunday Jan 31. I went to church at St. Jamess and heard Mr. Smedley preach badly (I thought). At 2 I went in a post chaise to Richmond to dine with Lyttleton and Sarah, and sleep there. There was no one else there but myself. They seem to be going on very well together. Indeed I never saw an instance of a husband and wife that I thought on a better footing with one another. Were I one of the parties my fancy might make me wish for some circumstances to be altered. In the evening a sermon was read aloud. I consider that the observance of social devotion like this is the first requisite for good union between man and wife, either that it gives them a mutual reliance on their good principles, or that it be attended by that greatest of all blessings, as a reward for it from Providence. I do not think Sarah manages her children quite so well as I should have expected.

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Monday Feb. 1. We breakfasted at 9. I took a walk in Richmond Park with Lyttleton, and again a short walk with him and Sarah. I returned to London in one of the coaches ( 6 inside )!! I dined at 7 with the Duke of Montrose. I met there besides Lady Caroline, Lord Clive, Mr. Clive, General Mumsers, Mr. Viner and young Maberly, a proper ministerial party. The Duke I like very well. I came home at 10 1/2.

Tuesday Feb 2. I went to call on Lady Grosvenor, when the snow which was falling in the morning had done, and I saw the new pictures at Grosvenor House. She was very kind to me as usual. She had asked me to dinner for yesterday, but I was engaged, and indeed was at Richmond when her note went. I then walked in several directions

London Feb 3 Feb 9 1819 Cambridge (73)

about the town. In returning home I found my Father just arrived from Woburn where he had had very good sport. I dined with him and my Mother, and read some Quarterly in the evening and talked.

Wednesday Feb 3. I staid in till 1, and then Hibbert called as we had agreed before, and we took a walk together, seeing sights till about 4 1/2. I then saw Ann Murray and Lisy Vernon. The latter I am now in a serape with I fancy, for she asked me to go and dine with them as my Father and Mother did, but my Mother objected so I did not; and I dined alone and went to Drury Lane and saw Brutus and the Harlequin Farce, both of which are the worst things of their kind I ever saw. Lord Stair was there and brought me home.

Thursday Feb 4. I went to the Duke of Montrose in a Hackney coach and thence set off at 1/4 to 12 in a chaise with Graham to Cambridge where we arrived at 7. We dined at the Bird where we met with 2 Sumners, Knox and Smith. After dinner Smith gave us all wine in his room, and we played then a rubber at whist till 11 1/2.

Friday Feb 5. It rained almost all day. I did not get up in time for lectures ( a bad beginning which must be amended ). After breakfast Smith came to me, and we settled a plan to go to the Northampton Ball on next Tuesday, for the chance of meeting the Powyses. So I wrote today to Lady Lifford about her invitation of me to Lifford, and put in a word about this. I dined in Hall and wined with Pratt, (Fox, Graham and Brecknock) came to chapel, and drank tea with the same at Brecknocks, went to Peacock at 8, and then read till 12. ( 4 hours ).

Saturday Feb 6. I went to lectures and at ten rode over to Chesterford, saw Blomfield and went with him to Mr. Clarkes at Ducksford, where Harris is gone. I saw him there and he seems to be doing very well, and to like the place which is a great point. I liked the looks of Mr. Clarke too. I stopped to dine at Chesterford, and had music in the eveing from Miss B. Dutton, a new pupil, is come in Abbotts place. I came home by 11; but got as thorough a ducking as ever I remember ( on Shelford Common particularly).

Sunday Feb 7. I went to chapel, and then breakfasted tete atete with Brecknock. I went to All Saints. Mandell preached as usual, so I shall go to it no more, but shall try another church. I walked with Fox and went to St. Marys. Dined at Magdalene. Came to chapel and drank tea alone with Griffith, who is as warm hearted and merry as ever. I came home at about 9 and read some Paley.

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Monday Feb 8. I went to Evans lectures in Greek Test.t which began today. He intends to give them 3 times a week during this term; they were at 8 1/2. Peacocks I went to at 10 1/2. After them I staid in till 1, and then went to him till 2. And after that took a walk in the country alone. I missed chapel by finding the door locked. I dined with Brecknock and met Graham, Thynne, Fox and Pratt. We had a great deal of noise, and a game at whist. I stoppped in Smiths room for an hour, or nearly so, to talk of going to Northampton tomorrow for the ball. We intend to do it now if the weather be fine. ( 6 hours ).
My stomach is much out of order, and this ride will do me good.

Tuesday Feb 9. I got up at 8. It rained almost all day, but Smith persuaded me to go to Northampton; so we tried all over the town for some horses. At last

(74) Cambridge Feb 10 Feb 13 1819

we made up a team for a tandem at Jordans, and set off at about 12, thro St. Neotts ( 18 miles ), Kinbolton ( 8 miles ) here we baited our horses for an hour and 1/2, and dined ourselves. Then to Higham Ferrers ( 10 m. ) and Wellingborough ( 6 ). When we arrived here, we found to our dismay that the Ball at Northampton was put off till next month. This, Mr. Higgins of the George had in fact written me word of, but by some infatuation we set off without asking for the letter. We therefore composedly had tea, and got a pack of cards to play at Piquette and went to bed about 12. There was a ball in this house of the Wellingborough fashionables, which made a horrible noise.

Wednesday Feb 10. We set off again in our tandem for Cambridge truly dimissis auribus, but with a resolution to try again on the 5th. March. It was a beautiful day. I did not drive at all yesterday, but today I made my debut in it for 20 miles about, without any upsetting. But alas! When Smith was driving about a mile on the other side of St. Neotts, one wheel caught against a cart wheel and over we went clean. We were not at all hurt, but the horses having torn the wheels etc., from the body of the carriage, set off with them full gallop for 1/4 mile till the leader turned into a clay pit by the side of the road, from whence they were brought perfectly sound. We were close to a publick house, where we dined and had the horses cleaned down, and the tandem mended, by a man whom we got from St. Neotts, and after 2 hours delay set off again and arrived safe at Cambridge by 7 o'clock! I went to Peacock for an hour; after we had tea in my room. A most disastrous expedition this has been; but I think the fun was worth it.

Thursday Feb 11. Evans gave no lectures today, but I went to Peacocks. I walked for an hour with Stapleton chiefly on the Trumpington road, and dined in Hall. After Hall I attended a meeting of the club where Stapleton was elected president, a new office intended to regulate the ballots and meetings. We made a great row for some time there till I took a walk with Fox and came to chapel. In the evening I went to Peacock for an hour.

Friday Feb 12. I went to Evans lecture and was put on and to Peacocks. At 1 I went to him as tutor. I walked a little with Fortescue, and called on Neville, and then with Stapleton. I dined with Neville and met 2 Lady Legges, Caroline and Barbara, and Fortescue. Lady Charlotte did not dine with us, but came in the evening. We played at Loo. They are not pretty girls, but very good humoured.

Saturday Feb 13. I went to lectures. At 1 to Peacock till 2 1/2. I dined in Hall and afterwards went to Smiths and to Gambiers room till chapel. I then came home till 9. Clarke the head lecturer has sent me an order for Latin Declamation with Nicholson, so we
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gave in our subjects tonight. "Whether the fall of Rome was owing to the arms of the Barbarians, or to the corruption of their own morals". At 9 I went to a meeting of the Club. We played at cards and had supper afterwards, and a ballot. Smith, Russell and Sumner elected. There was considerable row after supper over the Punch. I came away at 12.

Cambridge Feb 14 Feb 19 1819 (75)

Sunday Feb 14. I went to Chapel. Croft, Gambier and Stevenson breakfasted with me. They staid till past the time of going to church. I went with them walking to Granchester and back, and sat at home till 3. I then went to St. Marys and heard Hull of St. Johns preach. I dined at Magdalene as usual, and returned too late for our Chapel. Sedgwick, Romilly and Wodehouse dined there. I went to drink tea at Fiotts, with Gambier, Croft, Crawley, Stevenson and De Crespigny. I then returned and read some Paley.

Monday Feb 15. I missed Evans, but went to Peacocks lectures. I staid in till 2 and then walked for an hour with Smith. I dined in Hall, and went to wine with Mr. Greenwood, and met Judgson with a soldier brother of his, such as the fellows all produce at times, Romilly, John Brown and Hornby. I went to Chapel and then to Peacock. At 1/2 past 8 I went with Gambier and Croft to tea with Griffith, from whence we went to a ball at the Red Lion. I went to meet the Ladies Legge; for I had vowed last term never to go to another. This however was much better than the other. We danced country dances and Quadrilles alternately. I danced with Miss Bella Mansell, then Lady Barbara; 3rd. Lady Caroline Legge; 4th. Miss Fanny Mansell. I came away at about 5, and stopped with Fortescue, Croft, Gambier, Crawley, Proby and Pule to have tea and bread and butter with Fiott. I enjoyed this ball very well. The 2 Legges are very good humoured and sensible girls.

Tuesday Feb 16. I got up at 10, went to Peacock at 11. At 2 walked with Croft and Gambier, and went to Kings Chapel with them. At 5 1/2 I went to dine with Neville, and met Fortescue, Thynne, Brecknock and Fox, Mr. and Mrs. Lawley are there. We played at Loo in the evening, and Fox made us laugh by singing to us. I think Brecknock much the best of our Noblemen. Thynne gives himself immense airs and is a great deal too fashionable.

Wednesday Feb 17. I went to no lectures this morning in College, but to divinity lectures of which this is my 21st. I went walking with Gambier, and dined with him at the Bird at 3 1/2. We went to wine in my room with Stephen Croft. I went to Chapel and then to Peacock, after which I did some of my Latin Declamation.

Thursday Feb 18. I went to Peacocks lectures. At 12 I set off and took a walk of about 9 miles with Barnardiston till 3. Lunched at Litchfields, and went to Peacock at 4 till Chapel. Dined with Stopford, and met Graham, Brecknock, Barnardiston, Knox, Smith, Johnson, Bowman and Arcedeckne. We played at whist in the evening. I had a wrestle with Stopford which ended with my throwing him, with a small rap on his head, and a tear in his breeches and coat, which did not much please him; but he wont come tomorrow. I hate these conclusions of a days fun.

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Friday Feb 19. I got up at 1/2 past 7, which I now intend to do for good, for I have been very lazy this winter. I went to no lectures, but to divinity, after which I walked round by Granchester and Trumpington with Fortescue. I went to Chapel, and then dined with Brecknock, and met Lord Bayning, Townsend, Murdoch, Fox, Graham, Arcedeckne, and Stopford with whom I was better friends than yesterday. I came home at 1/2 past 9.

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average of time in one page of this journal is 5 days, 5 hours, and 24 minutes.

(76) Cambridge Feb 20 Feb 27 1819

Saturday Feb 20. I went to Peacocks lectures at 1/2 past 10, having got up at 7 1/2. At 1 I took a walk with Gambier and Croft to Coton. I dined with Gam. at the Bird as we were both out of sizings and commons, and we three as before wined in my room. I went to Chapel where Olivant declaimed in Latin, very well. I expect him to get both the first prizes. I went to Peacock after Chapel, and then came home to read.

Sunday Feb 21. I went to morning Chapel. I breakfasted with Stopford and Smith. I then went to the Round Church ( St. Sepulchres ) with Barnardiston. It rained all day so I sat in from 12 till 4. I then went to dine with Griffith in Emmanuel Hall. I came with him to our Chapel, where the Anthem was magnificent. I went to Fiotts tea party; and met, Croft, Gambier, Griffith, Hodgson, Fortescue, Guthrie, Nicholson, De Crespigny, Nephean, Johnson and Greenwood of Jesus, who was at Hawtreys at Eton. I returned to my room at 9 1/2 after stopping for a little chat in Stephens room.

Monday Feb 22. Went to no lectures, but to Peacock at 12 till 1. At 2 I set off in a gig of Taylors, with Stevenson to Chesterford, where we dined with Blomfield, and met Mr. Cox, and Mr. and Miss Kerr, besides their own people. They were singing all the evening till 11, when we set off back again and got home a little before 1. I drove all the way; a great feat for me, as it was very dark.

Tuesday Feb 23. It snowed hard till 1 or 2. I went to Peacocks lectures, then sat with Gambier and with Smith for some time. I went to Peacock at 1 1/2 till 3, and walked with Stapleton till 4. I did not go to Chapel; at 6 I ought to have gone to dine with Graham but went to sleep in my room and did not get there till past 6 1/2. I met Fielding, Fox, Brecknock, Arcedeckne, and Pratt. After dinner some organists came to the window, and we danced away for an hour almost in Brecknocks room, where we went to tea. I came home at 1/4 to 10.

Wednesday Feb 24. This was Ash Wednesday so we had no lectures. I went to Peacock at 9. At 11 I rode to Ely with Smith to see the Cathedral, the outside of which was fine enough, but the inside disappointed me. We got back to Cambridge at 4, having come back in an hour and ten minutes ( 16 miles ). We dined in Hall at 4 as Chapel had been at 3. And I wined with Mr. Greenwood, and met Russel, Evans, Judgson, and E. Peacock. Russel came to see me afterwards.

Thursday Feb 25. I went to Peacocks lectures. At 1 I walked to Trumpington, and round by Granchester with Gambier. Croft and his brother went with us to Trumpington. I dined in Hall and wined with Barnardiston, and met Stopford and Briner. I then went to
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Chapel and then to Peacock. I went to bed at 1, after a good evenings work at my Declamation. ( 10 or 11 hours ).

Friday Feb 26. I went to Evanss Greek testament lectures, which seems to me to be quite useless. I missed Peacocks lectures, but went to him from 12 till 1. I then met Moreton and Blomfield who were come over to do business here, and I walked about with them till Hall, where I dined. Gambier and Croft came to wine with me, and the former gave me a Waltzing lesson. I missed Chapel, and sat at home all the evening.

Saturday Feb 27. I went to Peacocks lectures. At 12 1/2 I went out walking on the Trumpington Road with Croft and Gambier till 2. I dined in Hall, then walked a little with Stopford and Brecknock, and had some wine in Crofts room. I went to chapel to declaim in Latin against Nicholson. I had

Cambridge Feb 28 Mar 6 1819 (77)

learnt my speech as I thought perfectly. But I had to look at my paper 4 or 5 times. However, Peacock said that I seemed to know it, and spoke it loud enough. I went to him afterwards and drank tea with him, and returned at 9 to my rooms. I am very glad that the whole business of declaiming is over. This is the last compulsory exercise in Latin I shall ever have to keep. So I may reckon this as the conclusion of all my Eton studies; for the Greek test.t at the examinations is hardly anything. I have no hope of getting a prize. I expect Ollivant to get both the first prizes, and Arnold the 2d. Latin. The English I cannot judge of. Platt has today been elected University Scholar. I have often felt glad that I have given up that business – **** Time. (Olivant and Arnold did eventuallly get them ).

Sunday Feb 28. I went to Chapel and then breakfasted with Smith, and met Sumner and Fielding. I went to All Saints, notwithstanding my determination to hear Mandell no more; and he preached as badly as ever! I then called on Brougham, and walked with him till 3; went to St. Marys, and dined in Magdalene Hall with Eden. I came to Chapel and then went to Fiotts; and met Guthrie, Hodgson, Brougham, Hammond of Jesus, Marton of Trin. H., and De Crespigny who disgusted me by asking me to dinner on Tuesday. I was taken aback so, that I could not refuse, and must go I fear. I then came and sat for an hour in Gambiers room, and went to bed at 12.

Monday March 1. I went to Peacocks lectures and to Divinity. I did not go out, but staid in Smiths room, leaping for some time. I went into Hall, and then had Smith, Stopford, and Barnardiston to wine. I went to Chapel and then to Peacock. I went at 9 to Fiott for cards and supper, and met Thynne, Gambier, Croft, Griffith, Stopford, Forster. ( Smith and Watson ) of St. Johns, and Brougham. We played at whist and at Blind Hooky, and broke up at 1.

Tuesday March 2. There were no lectures for the Sacrament for the term was given today. I did not go. I went to Peacock at 9 and sat at home till 3 1/2, then walked a little with Russel. At 6 I went to dine with De Crespigny of Trin. Hall. I met Fiot, Johnson, Brimer, Nephean, Bulwer, Rogers of Trin, Gooch, ( Fat Hughes, Marryatt, Jackson, Martin, Leicester etc.) of Trin. Hall. De Crespigny is a great fool in his manner, but he does not seem to be so bad in fact, as I thought at first. I came home at about 11 1/2.

Wednesday March 3. I went to no college lectures, but to I did to (sic) Divinity. I then walked till nearly 3 with Fortescue. I dined in Hall, and then had some wine in Gambiers room with Croft and Hildyard. I went to Chapel and then went to Peacock. Kindersley and Bulwer declaimed.
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Thursday Mar 4. I went to lectures and sat at home the greater part of the morning. I went at 4 to Peacock, went to Chapel, and at 6 went to dine with Johnson, and met Stopford, Smith, Stapleton, Arcedeckne, Fiott, Proby, Godfrey of Trin., Barnardiston, and Leigh of Trin. We played at whist and blind Hoocky in the evening till 1.

Friday Mar 5. The ball at Northampton was put off to this day, from the 9th. Feb., so Smith and I determined to compensate for our former miscarriage, and got a tandem from Taylors, and started at 7. We baited at Kimbolton, and breakfasted there. And stopped a little at Wellingbro; we reached Northampton at 4 1/2; walked about and called on Mrs. Kerr etc. Major Mansel of Cotegrove was there, and dined with us at the George, which took us till near 9. At half past we went into the ball, where to our surprise Fielding walked in. He had come there from hunting. The Powyses did not come, nor Mary Cartwright, so that the ball was bad enough, but I enjoyed it from necessity. I danced with a Miss Thirrall, Caroline and Kate Bouverie, Miss Buller, and Miss Elwes. It stopped at about 4 and we went to bed in the Inn.

Saturday Mar 6. I found just before leaving Cambridge that my Father and Mother were at Althorp, so I thought it best to go and see them. I therefore took a hack from Northampton, and galloped over to breakfast there. I was back again in an hour and a half. They were vastly surprised to see me. Most fortunately they did not ask how I came, for it would have frightened my Mother. My Father said

(78) Cambridge Mar 7 Mar 11 1819

that he had been canvassing for me for the Alfred, and had got nearly enough promises to bring me in. I was delighted that I had gone there, for they took it in such good part, that I was pleased in every point of it. We set off back at 12, and baited and lunched at Kimbolton. We went through Eaton to take up Fielding. He had a gig there, which Smith drove home, and Fielding drove me home. We got in at ten. Smith and I went to sup at the Bird and then went to bed. I consider myself as a competent driver now, having driven half way to Northampton, and half way back again. We had no accidents but 2 or 3 narrow escapes.

Sunday Mar 7. I went to chapel; and at ten breakfasted with Gambier, and met Hildyard, 2 Crofts, Stevenson, Kindersley and Robinson of Trin. After this Gambier, Croft, Stevenson, Hildyard and I set off and walked beyond Granchester mill and back again, leaping gates etc., till 2. I then wrote a letter to Sarah, and did not go to St. Marys, which I regretted when I heard that Clarke had preached. Regulations had been made this wek to make men dine 5 times a week in Hall, and one of those days Sunday, so the time is altered on that day to 4. I therefore dined in it. There was a large quantity of people. I dined with Smith, and met Graham, Russel, Fielding, and Sumner. I went to Chapel, and then drank tea with Fiott, and met T. Croft, Fortescue, Proby, Johnson, De Crespigny, and Townsend of T.H. Stephen and I then went to sit with Gambier, when Fiott came and offered us some little supper, which we went to with Brougham, whom we met. Stephen and I had a little walk first. We came back at 1/4 to 12, but I walked about the Fellows garden and the Cloisters till 12 1/2. I like Gam., and Stephen more and more every day.

Monday Mar 8. I went to lectures, and to Divinity lectures. This was my 25th., so I shall now ask for my certificate. I walked on the Trumpington road with Croft, and came home for an hour at 4. I went to Peacock till 5 1/2. I missed Chapel and had a pleasant dinner with Smith, and met Stopford, Graham, Fielding, and Sumner. We played at whist and I returned at 11 1/2.

Tuesday Mar 9. I breakfasted with Smith at 8 1/2. I went to Peacocks lectures. At 1 I went out walking to Coton with Smith, and jumped over some of the fences, till I tried the hedge at the end. There I caught my feet in the top and fell on my face and tore my eye lid. It was of no consequence as it happened, but it was a very narrow escape for my eye. I came home and had Headly to dress it. At 6 I went to Peacock. At 9 Gambier, Fortescue, 2 Crofts, Hildyard and Brougham came to play at whist in my room. We had supper at ten. Some of them kept it up till 3. 7 people was a bad number, but I could not get an eighth, and it was not quite comfortable in consequence.

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(78 cont.)

Wednesday Mar 10. I got up at 9 1/2 and went to no lectures. I did not go out of the college, because of my eye, which is better however. I went to Peacock from 1 till 3. Dined in Hall, and wined with Graham, and met Fox, Sumner and Stopford. I went to Chapel. Stapleton came and drank tea with me. At 9 I went to Stopford and played at whist with him, Gambier, Broadhead and Tom Croft. Came home at 12.

Thursday Mar 11. I got up rather late, and breakfasted with Stopford at 9 1/2; missed lectures; walked from 11 1/2 to 3 with Fortescue, went into Hall, and out to Peacock after it. I then went to Chapel, and at 9 went to Gambiers, to whist and oysters, and met Croft, Hildyard, Fiott, Crawly, Hodgson, Stevenson. I came home about 1.

Cambridge Mar 12 Mar 23 1819 (79)

Friday Mar 12. I did not go to lectures, but sat in till 1 1/2. I then walked about alone till 3. I went into Hall; but nowhere to wine. I went to Chapel, and afterwards to Peacock, and to bed at 12.

Saturday Mar 13. I went to lectures. At 12 I walked towards Coton and Madingly with Gambier and Croft. Returned at 1 1/2. At home till Hall, where I dined. Wined with Monk; met Graham, Brecknock, 2 Mr. Noels, Geo. Peacock, Whewell, Stevenson, Bulwer, Brimer, Bowman and Pratt. Went to Chapel, and afterwards to Peacock. Staid at home till 12 and went to bed.

Sunday Mar 14. I overslept myself and was too late for chapel. I breakfasted with Brecknock, and staid till 11 leaping in his garden, with Smith, Graham and Pratt. So I could not go to church on account of my heat. I came home therefore for an hour, and then walked to Coton and back with Croft, Gambier and Stevenson. I dined in Hall, and Smith, Graham, Pratt, Stopford and Brecknock wined with me. I went to Chapel, and had tea at Fiotts, with Croft, Gam., and Stevenson; Fiott himself not being there; but giving his rooms as a matter of course for Sunday evening. I came home at 8 1/2, and walked about the garden and cloisters for an hour before I finally boxed up.

Monday Mar 15. I went to Peacocks lectures, and at 12 went with Gambier riding to Ducksford to see Harris, but no one was at home. I came back for Hall, and after it went to Peacock. I sat at home till 8 1/2, and then with Stopford and Barnardiston went to the fields behind Newham to see Stapleton send up a fire balloon, but the wind was too high, so that it was very nearly burnt up. I walked back to Magdalene with Fortescue who was there, and had some tea and came home at 10 1/2.

Tuesday Mar 16. I went to lectures. At 12 I went out riding with Barnardiston. I had a horse from Baxter who started at Carts, and when I first set off, he started upon the flags in the market place, and fell down on my leg, but I got on again and we rode a 2nd. time to Ducksford, where we saw Mr. Clarke and Harris, who seems to be doing very well. My toe began to hurt me before I got there having been benummed before; so when I returned I sent for Okes; it was only strained violently. I had expected it to be broken. I was obliged to remain with my shoe off; so I had some dinner in my room alone. Peacock came to me in the evening; and Okess man came at 9 and put on some leeches, and a poltess. I went to bed about 12.

Wednesday Mar 17. My toe was better this morning, but I was obliged to stay in, with a poltess on all day. I had dinner at 5 alone. Peacock came to me at 8 1/2.
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(79 cont.)

Thursday Mar 18. My toe was about the same as yesterday, so I was all day with a poltess. I dined alone at 4 1/2. Stephen Croft very good naturedly came and drank tea with me. I hopped across the court to Peacock about 8.

Friday Mar 19. I had a plaister put on my toe, and got a loose shoe on. I did not go to lectures. At 12 1/2 I took a drive in a gig of Baxters with Gambier, beyond Madinglay till 2 1/2. I went into Hall and wined with Stopford, and met Brecknock, Pratt, and Sumner. I went to Chapel, and afterwards to Peacock. At 8 I went to tea with Brecknock and Pratt, and came home at 9 1/2.

Saturday Mar 20. My toe was a little better. I went to lectures. At 2 I went out walking, or rather hobbling in the town with Brecknock. I dined in Hall, and went nowhere to wine. I went to chapel where there was a very good anthem; and I drank tea with Broadhead, and I met Stopford and Sumner. At 8 I came to Peacock, and after him I read some poetry and did some Mathematicks till about 12 1/2.

Sunday Mar 21. I went to morning Chapel, and then breakfasted in Arcedecknes room with all the members of the Eton club in Cambridge, consisting of himself, Graham, Brecknock, Murdoch, Pratt, Eden, Scott and myself. I then came home, being too late for any church again! I stayed in and wrote letters. I went to St. Marys in the evening and heard Clarke preach. I dined in Hall and went into Combination room, then to Chapel, and drank tea with Fiott as usual. There were there Crawley, Gambier, Hodgson, Fortescue and Nicholson, and we had a long stupid debate about the rights and duties of M.A.s in which of course Fortescue was for the statutes.

Monday Mar 22. I went to lectures. At 2 Brougham called, and we walked together behind the college till Hall. I dined there, and went no where to wine. I went to chapel and then to Peacock. At 9 I went to sup and play at whist with Stapleton, and met 2 Villiers, Magennis, Russel, Broadhead and Barnardiston, and Johnson. I came home at 1.

Tuesday Mar 23. I went to lectures. At 1 I went out riding. Smith was to have gone with me, but he bilked me so I went alone, and overtook Gentleman Peacock, so I rode with him,

(80) Cambridge Mar 24 Mar 31 1819

round by Granchester, and then by myself towards Madinglay. I went to Peacock at 4 1/2, and at 6 dined with Brecknock and met Fielding, Smith, Graham, Pratt, Arcedeckne, Broadhead, and Stopford. I played at whist and came home at 10 1/2.

Wednesday Mar 24. I went to lectures. At 2 I walked about behind the colleges with Barnardiston. I dined in Hall, and wined with Fielding and met Graham, Smith, Fox, Brecknock, Pratt, Gooch and Hyde Villiers. I walked at 6 to see a new invented hobby horse in the Finciry room, and then came to Peacock till 9 1/2. I went then to a whist and oyster party at Broadheads, and met Knox, Stopford, Barnardiston, and Scott. Came home at 12 1/2.

Thursday Mar 25. I went to lectures; having been with Peacock for 1/2 an hour before them. At 1 I went out riding with Brecknock and Stopford on the Hills road and thence across to Shelford. At 6 1/2 I went to dine with Fox and met Brecknock, Graham, Fielding, 2 Villiers, Arcedeckne, Pratt, and Russel. It was a very pleasant dinner. I came away at 9 and went to a concert in the Town Hall, and saw several people there of my intimates. I spoke to the Miss Mansells, but I fear I have ruined myself there by running away and not waiting to hand them out. I came home at 10 1/2.

Friday Mar 26. There were no lectures today. I went out at 1 and walked first with Stopford, and then with Griffith and Crawley. I came to Hall, and went nowhere to wine. I went to sleep and missed Chapel, and then went to Peacock for some time. At 7 I went to tea at the Lodge, and thence to the concert in the Town Hall with the Miss Mansells. It was excessively hot. We came home at 10 1/2 and had supper at the Lodge. Mr. Lane F.C. of St. John, young Hole, and Gentleman Peacock were there.

Saturday Mar 27. I went to Peacock at 7 1/2 till 9, then again at 10 till 1/2 past. I went also to his lectures then. At 1 I had intended to ride with Stopford but it rained so I walked out with him, and then went with Stapleton, called on Russel etc., till 3. I was going to dine with Neville but he wrote about 4 to say that he had forgotten me and had dined already, so I dined about 5 with Stapleton, Stopford, and Barnardiston at the Bird. I came to Chapel. At 9 I went to whist and supper with Kindersley and met his brother who is fellow of Trinity ( wrong, that is another), and a Mr. Welch, Griffith, Crawley, Tom Croft, and Martin of Trin. I did not come home till 12 1/2.

Sunday Mar 28. I went to Chapel; breakfasted with Stopford and met Knox, Stapleton, Hamilton of St. Johns. I went to All Saints expecting to hear Crawley but Mandel got up to my disgust as usual. I then came home till 3. I went to St. Marys and heard Clarke preach a capital sermon. I dined at 4 with Neville, and met Fortescue, Mr. Walters of St. Johns, Murry and Peacock (the two Bell Scholars), and the 3 Esquire Russells. I came home to chapel,
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(80 cont.)

and then went to tea at Professor Smyths and met Mr. Pepys of St. Johns, and another person, Mr. O'Hanlon, ( a cousin of Smyths ). I staid till 9 and then came and sat for nearly 2 hours talking to Stephen Croft in his room.

Monday Mar 29. I went to lectures. At 1 I went out riding with Stopford, we went along the Wimpole road and across to Coton, larking with 2 of Baxters horses. The 1st time of my attempting that fun. I dined in Hall, and after it took a turn in the Walks with Barnardiston and Hildyard. I went to sleep on my sofa about chapel time and so missed it. At 8 I went for an hour to Peacock and then went to cards and supper with Knox, and met Stopford, Broadhead, Scott, Power, Forster, Astley, Hamilton Junior and Ponsonby. I came away at 12.

Tuesday Mar 30. I went to Peacock at 7 1/2 till 9, and again just before lectures. I sat in till 2 after lectures, and then set off on horseback to Chesterford to dine with Blomfield. They were all going on just as usual. I came home about 12 1/4.

Wednesday Mar 31. I went to Peacock at 7 1/2 and to lectures at 10 1/2. At 12 I went to Brougham, and took a boat with him, Lefevre, and Le Marchant, whom we met, and we rowed down a little way. I then sat with Fiott a little while and came home till chapel. After chapel I dined with the Mansells at the Lodge, and met Noel, Fielding, Griffith, Fiott, Hole, E. Peacock, the Vice Master, and Monk. Lady Cotton and one Miss Do. <I.E. DITTO> Mrs. Godfrey, Mrs Fiott-Pugh, a sister of the Bishops. In the evening there was lots of singing and social ******* ********.

Cambridge Ap 1. Ap 9 1819 London (81)

I tried one country dance but it hurt me, so that I gave it up. I was not in very good spirits there, for some reason or other. I am rather tired of the people I fancy, and not quite well in point of stomach.

Thursday Ap 1. I did not go to lectures nor to Peacock all day. At 12 1/2 I rode with Gambier and Eden to Madinglay; when Eden left us, Gambier and I came back round about. I dined in Hall and wined with Gambier and met 2 Noels, Croft, Hildyard, and Stainforth. I went to chapel and read till 9. Then Gambier, Fiott, and Eden came to play at whist with me till 12, and we had some oysters etc.

Friday Ap 2. I went to Peacock at 7 1/2 for some time and then breakfasted with him. I did not go out much during the day excepting a strolling walk for an hour or two with Gambier, Croft, and Fiott. I dined in Hall and read till 8 or 9 and then went to play at whist with Fortescue and met Fiott, Samson, Lodge and Crawley, the two last of whom went away very soon. We had supper at 12, after which Fiott departed, but we 3 remained playing with a dummy till 2 1/2.

Saturday Ap 3. I slept today actually till 10 1/2. At 12 1/2 I went out with Gambier in a gig to Granchester, and there I bathed while he waited for me on the road. We came home by 2 1/2. I dined in Hall, and wined with Stevenson and met Gambier, Hildyard, Higman and Guthrie. I then went home and read all the evening. And got up 2nd set of *******.

Sunday Ap 4. I got up at 9 and went at 10 to breakfast with Gambier to meet 2 Freshmen, Proteges of his ***. 2 Scotts of St. Johns. I went to All Saints to hear Crawley preach. He has got it for 3 months. I then walked with Gambier and Stevenson for some time, and then came home till 3. Went to St. Marys and heard Kaye, and then brought Fortescue into our Hall, and gave wine to him, Gambier, Hildyard, Stevenson and Kindersley. I went to Chapel, and then after packing up for some time went to tea with Fortescue and Crawley. Came back at 10. Sat 1/2 hour with Gambier and came home.

Monday Ap 5. This morning at 9 I set off in the Telegraph to London. Mr. Hare and Sheepshanks, 2 young fellows of Trinity were on the top of the coach with me. I have seldom heard a greater ass than the former appeared to be, from his conversation. I arrived in London about 4 1/2, and found the Lytteltons in the house with us, and my Mother just convalescent from a violent bilious attack with spasms. She did not dine with us, but sat down stairs part of the evening. The Vernons and Georgiana Bingham and Mr. Grenville dine with us.

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(81 cont.)

Tuesday Ap 6. I staid in till 2 reading Quarterly Review etc., then called on Nannette, Lady Camden etc. Came home at 4. At 6 I went to dine with the Vernons, and met Georgiana Bingham who is staying with them, and Captain Henry Vernon. I found the party very pleasant and returned about 10 1/2.

Wednesday Ap 7. Breakfasted at 10 with my Father alone as yesterday. Stayed at home till 1 1/2 reading Quarterly Review ******. Went out then only to call on Lady Cork with a note. Dined at 5 with my Mother and Sarah. My Father and Lyttelton missing out; and in the evening read Ross's expedition.

Thursday Ap 8. Moreton came to see me today and staid a long time in the house. We then walked together to see the Velocipede in Pall Mall, on which we practiced for some time. I then returned to see Sarah, who went out at 4 to Wimbledon where her children are. My Father, Mother and I dined at 1/4 to 6. Nannette and Lady Cork came in the evening, and with them and my Father I played some whist.

Friday Ap 9. Good Friday. I went to church at St. James with my Father, and then came home and wrote a long letter to Fremantle who is living alone at Banberry to read. I only went

(82) London Ap 10 Ap 17 1819 Cambridge

out a little in the Green Park alone. Nannette dined with us at 6 1/2. In the evening we had a rubber at whist.

Saturday Ap 10. I went out this morning about 12, paying bills etc., and called on Lady Lifford who, being ill could not see me. At 2 I went with my Mother in the carriage to Wimbledon, where we are to stay for a few days; the Lytteltons are there already. We dined at 6 1/2, and in the evening I read the Vampyre etc. The place looks very pretty, and it was a beautiful day.

Sunday Ap 11. Easter Day. My Father, and Lyttelton and I went to church at 11 and took the Sacrament. A Mr. Ferries preached instead of Mr. Lindsay; the same man preached at St. Jamess on Friday and it was the same sermon, and a very poor one too. I sat at home with Sarah most of the day, and only took a little walk alone. Dined at 6 1/2 and read various scraps in the evening. Went to bed at 12.

Monday Ap 12. It rained all day so that I did not go out of the house once, but staid in and read a good deal of the Mathematics. In the evening I read some of Mad. de Genlis Theatre de Societe!

Tuesday Ap 13. It was a bad day again, and I only went a little walk with my Father and Duncannon who came here with two of his boys for a visit. Lyttelton dined in town. The rest of us had a rubber at whist in the evening. I read another play of Mad. de Genlis.

Wednesday Ap 14. This is Fritzs birthday, and sincerely do I wish that he was here to celebrate it, but I fear we shall not see him till the end of May at soonest. Blomfield came to call here today from London. My Mother, who is much better, was out in her little carriage ( the Coward ), and my Father was in Town, so I took him round the gardens. At 3 1/2 the Murrays and Elkows came. They were to dine here. They went out walking with Lyttelton and me, as long as they could keep it up. But they soon knocked up, poor girls! And then I went a longer walk round part of the Park with Murray. The Bessboroughs, and Duncannon, and Fred Ponsonby also came to dinner, making the ominous number of 13 together. They all went away in the evening.

Thursday Ap 15. I left Wimbledon in my Fathers carriage at 1, and went to London where Blomfield soon called on me. We went together with Moreton, with whom after parting company with Blomfield, I went to see the Panorama of Spitzbergen which I like very much. I went also to call on Nannette etc. At 6 I went to dine with Mr. Mawman, 39 Ludgate St., he has asked me very often; so I have at last satisfied him. I met there Blomfield, Monk, Mr. Dodd the preacher, one Mr. Wilson, and Miss Mawman. I walked home about 10 with Monk, and after that walked a little down Pall Mall alone, and < DIARY PAGE CONTINUES >

(82 cont.)

then went home to bed very miserable, and wherefore I shall not forget.

Friday Ap 16. Mawman asked me yesterday to breakfast today before the coach set off, so I went at 8 and found Blomfield there. He and I went inside the Fly, he to Chesterford, I to Cambridge, whither I arrived at 4 o'clock. I had written to Fortescue to give me a dinner, but I found a note from him to ask me to dine with Neville to whom he was engaged; so I went at 5. Besides myself, only Fortescue dined there, and another ( one Mr. Smith ), a married pensioner of St. Johns; famous as it appeared for short hand writing, and that only; and employed by Neville in that line. He went away early; but we three staid till 11 1/2 playing at whist with a dumy. Neville was very civil to me, more perhaps than I deserved; since we have broken off all negotiations about my fellowship there; in consequence of Blomfields suggestion to my Father; because of the nonsense of the Trinity Fellows, and of my expected going abroad.

Saturday Ap 17. I got up at 8. I went out at 12 1/2 and called on Griffith, with whom I walked for some time. The examinations for scholarships at Trinity are going, and so dinner in Hall is at 1, but I did not go in; and I only lunched at Crisps and had no dinner. I read from 3 till 12. The best day I have had for a good while in reading. ( This makes 18 months of *********).

Cambridge Ap 18 Ap 25 1819 (83)

Sunday Ap 18. I went to morning Chapel, and at 10 went to breakfast with Lefevre, and met Guthrie, Le Marchant, Barnes, and one more whom I knew not. I went to All Saints where Griffith read and preached a good sermon. I then came home till 3, and went to hear Kaye at St. Marys. I then went to dine with Neville again and met Lawson, Fortescue, Griffith and the 3 Bedells. I staid till it was too late to come to my chapel in time, so I walked down to hear the Anthem with Griffith, after which I went to tea with him at Emmanuel, and sat till near 9. And then came home to read Paley; and went to bed at 12.

Monday Ap 19. I got up at 8 and remained at home till 1 1/2. Then I went out and walked by myself, for want of a better companion. I called on the Bishop, and was to my surprise let in. He came down stairs to me, and sat talking for a good 20 minutes, very agreeably. I dined in Hall and then walked a little till near 5. Barnardiston came this evening and drank tea with me at 8. I went to bed soon after 11, which I intend to make a practice of, if I find that I can get up early; for my eyes and stomach already warn me to take care of myself, in reading.

Tuesday Ap 20. I got up at 6 and read till breakfast. Smith about 10 came to me, he arrived yesterday. At 1 I went out riding with him towards the hills, and so round by Shelford. We dined in Hall, and after that, he and I and Barnardiston walked down to Jesus piece, to see about hiring a boat for the season, but we came away, ne infeita. I then came home and read. Went to bed at 11.

Wednesday Ap 21. I got up at 7 and read till 11 1/2. I then went to Smiths rooms for some time, and talked with him and Lefevre who was there. And then met Croft and Gambier who are just returned, much to my pleasure; and walked a little with them. At 1 1/2 I went out riding towards Coton and Granchester with Smith on a horse of Baxters. Came into Hall where was a new F.C. nomim, Massey, brother of Lord Massey. After dinner Smith and I asked him to come out with us in a boat which we did. We sailed down river from Sapsfords for a good way, and rowed ot towed up, we came back at 7. And we thence drank tea in Smiths room. At 8 I retired and went to bed at 11.

Thursday Ap 22. I got up at 5 and read till near 1. I then went out with Brougham who called on me, and made some calls with him. I dined in Hall, and afterwards walked a little in the town. I went to Chapel. At 7 1/2 I went to tea with Hustler. He asked me in order to talk about mathematics, and he gave me quantities of problems in mechanics. I staid till 10 1/2, and then came away. Went to bed at 11. Hustler is a very good natured fellow, say what they will about his humbug.

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(83 cont.)

Friday Ap 23. I got up at 6 and read till about 12. Gambier then came to me, and I walked with him to Coton and round by the Wimpole turnpike home. I got in at 2 1/2, when Fortescue fetched me out again and took me to see some improvements at Magdalene. I came home then and read an hour more. I dined at 5 1/2 with G. A. Browne; and met Mr. and Mrs. Shrine, Mr. and Mrs. Brett ( he being a Fellow Commoner of Jesus), Mrs. Freme, Fortescue, and Marquis Spinetto, the Italian master. It was quite a new sort of party to me; but I liked it very well. I played 2 rubbers at whist, and came home at 12.

Saturday Ap 24. I got up at 6 and went at 8 1/2 to Peacocks lectures which began today. I then went to call on Fortescue and staid near an hour. It rained almost all day, and I did not go out. I dined in Hall, and after that I walked about in the Cloisters with Smith and Barnardiston. Then went to Chapel, and read till 11.

Sunday Ap 25. I went to chapel, and gave breakfast to Smith, Barnardiston, and Massey. I went to all Saints, and then walked about with Fiott and Crawley. St. Marys has been ordered to beat 2 instead of 3 from henceforth. I went to it and heard Kaye preach. Our Hall was at 3. I went and dined there, and afterwards went

(84) Cambridge Ap 26 May 2 1819

into Combination room. I went to Chapel, and came home afterward to read Paley etc.

Monday Ap 26. I got up at 7 1/2 having taken a dose of salts about 4 in the morning. I missed lectures and went out about 1, and met Noel who asked me to walk with him. So we went to Jesus piece, and I rowed him up to the Newnham Mill, and coming back we took in Gambier and Fortescue. I went into Hall and then went to Woodhouses lectures on Experimental Philosophy which began today. I then walked about idling; with Lefevre, Gambier, and Croft, which last came to tea with me. At 8 I went to Peacock, and went to bed at 12.

Tuesday Ap 27. I got up at 6 and went to lectures at 8 1/2, and to Peacock at 11. I went out with Gambier from 12 to 2, and walked to Powells farm that was; where Elliott and Smith was selling farming stock and cows, by auction. I dined in Hall, and went to Woodhouses lectures. I then went to chapel, drank tea alone, and went again to Peacock in the evening.

Wednesday Ap 28. I got up at 6 1/2. I did not go to lectures, but went to Peacock at 11. At 1 I went to the Red Lion with Stopford. We were going to be entered apprentices at the Cambridge new lodge there. There were several others. Brougham and Ramsay of Jesus, Calvert tutor of Jesus, and Hurd and Hunslow of St. Johns were also initiated. I was taken up at about 1 1/2 and came out about 3, and returned to my rooms till 5 when I went to dine with the brethren at the Red Lion. There were about 20, members there. We broke up at 8, and I was coming home, but G. A. Browne met me and brought me back for tea, and I was actually put down to a rubber at whist with Mr. Abbott the surgeon, Deighton the bookseller, and another man. I returned about 9 1/2.

Thursday Ap 29. I got up at 6 1/4, and did not go to lectures, but went to Peacock at 11, and at 12 walked a little with Gambier and Croft. I came home at 1 1/2 and shut myself up till Hall, being very bilious with last nights wine, and being in one of my misanthropic moods. I dined in Hall, went to Woodhouses lecture, and came to chapel. Then read till Brougham, Gambier and Croft came to me. I went out with them for an hour on Clare Hall piece, where some Velocipedes were exercising. At 8 I went to drink tea with Hustler, who very good naturedly gave me another cram in Mechanical Problems. I returned at 1/4 to 11.

Friday Ap 30. I got up at 6 and went to Peacock at 7 till 8. At 8 1/2 I went to his lectures, and at 10 set off to Newmarket with Gambier and Noel on one of Baxters horses who pulled excessively. There were an immense of men whom I knew there, besides an unusual number of others. I saw some races and came home by 5 1/2. At 6 I dined with Noel and his brother at his lodgings, and came home to read at 9.
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(84 cont.)

Saturday May 1. I got up at 6 and went to Morning Chapel, it was a surplis morning. I went to lectures; and to Peacock at 11 till 12. I then went out with Pratt and Barnardiston sailing on the river, down to the 1st. lock. Came home at 3, and read till 5. Then went to dine with Smith, and met Stopford, Graham, 2 Sumners, Hyde Villiers, Pratt, Johnson and Fielding. At 9 1/2 I stole away without saying a word about it, and came to Peacock, where Barnardiston was till near 11.

Sunday May 2. I got up at 6. The first time in my life on Sunday I suppose. I went to chapel and breakfasted with Romilly, and met Hodgson, Brougham, Astley and 3 others whose names I have not discovered. I staid there till 12, and then walked with Brougham and others till 2. I went to St. Marys and heard Blomfield preach a very capital sermon. Moreton

Cambridge May 3 May 10. 1819 (85)

also was with him. They dined with Neville, but I dined in Hall and wined with Stopford, with Knox and Pratt, and Johnson. I went to Chapel and then came home to read Greek Testament and write some letters.

Monday May 3. I got up at 5 and read till I missed the time of lectures and could not go. Noel came again today to go in a boat with me. So I went to Peacock with Barnardiston at 11, and then with Smith and Noel sailed down to the first lock; there was a very nice breeze. We were too late for Hall, so I had no dinner, and only had a few cakes at Crisps. I went to Wodehouses lectures, and came to chapel. At 8 Hustler once more gave me tea, and a cramm in Mechanics. I went to bed at 1/2 past 11.

Tuesday May 4. I got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock with Barnardiston at 7. There were no lectures as Peacock was examining some men for degrees. I sat in till 2 and then went out walking in the town till Hall. After Hall I went to Woodhouses lectures, and came to Chapel. At 8 I went again to Hustler, and staid with him till 1/4 to 12. I was very much knocked up today; for I had 15 hours reading, and that very intense for the most part.

Wednesday May 5. I got up at 6 and went to Peacock with Barnardiston at 7. I went also to lectures. At 11 we again went to Peacock, and at 1 1/2 I went out riding with Smith towards Cotenham. I dined in Hall and went to Woodhouses lecture, but not to Chapel. At 6 I came home to read.

Thursday May 6. I got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7 with Barnardiston. I staid in till 12 and missed lectures, and went at 12 to take another degree in Freemasonry at the Red Lion. I am now a Fellow Craft. They let me out about 2 1/2. I dined in Hall and went to Woodhouses lectures and to chapel. I did read very well tonight, not being perfectly well.

Friday May 7. I got up at 6 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7, but missed lectures. I went again to Peacock at 11. At 1 I went sailing with Smith down to the first lock. I dined in Hall and went to Woodhouses lectures and to Chapel. Went to sleep at 10 1/2 but not to bed till past 12.

Saturday May 8. I got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7. There were no lectures for us, so we staid with Peacock till ten and breakfasted with him. At 12 I went to hear Dr. Clarke concluding lectures which was capital. At 2 I set off on Baxters grey mare to Chesterford where I dined. Both Blomfields sisters are with him, Mr. Lascelles dined there too. I rode home about 1/4 to 12, having stopped on the road to hear some nightingales for it was a beautiful night.
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(85 cont.)

Sunday May 9. I got up at 7 1/2. Went to Chapel. Wrote to Fritz who is just come to Plymouth, and breakfasted with Massey. I did not go to church, I am sorry to say; and not only that, but I idled away the whole time till 2 with Gambier, Lefevre and Moreton, and Nugent came over with Blomfield who preached at St. Marys. I went there with them and they then dined with me in Hall. We wined at Monks as also Hustler and Mr. Willats of Downing. I went to chapel and then to tea with the Bishop. There was his old sister there, Hustler, E. Peacock, Monk and Noel. We had the organ going till supper, and at 12 I came to bed.

Monday May 10. I got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7, but not to lectures. I only went out walking for an hour by myself, and making calls. I dined in Hall and went to Woodhouse; came to chapel and drank tea with Hustler at 9, and staid till 11 with him.

(86) Cambridge May 11 May 18. 1819

Tuesday May 11. I got up at 6 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7. There was the sacrament in Chapel at 11 so we had no lectures. I did not attend it. It is surprizing how Noel bores me. He made me go out with him in a boat today again, we luckily picked up his brother also, which made it better, and sailed down to the 1st. lock. I went into Hall and to Woodhouse, and then went and had a tooth drawn by Okes, which has been my plague for 2 or 3 years. In the evening Hustler again gave me tea and a cranm in Mechanicks.

Wednesday May 12. I got up at 5 1/2, went to Peacock at 7, and again at 12, but not to lectures. At 1 I went out and attended a congregation where Graham and Thynne took their M.A. degrees; which reminds me pretty clearly of the near approach of the conclusion of my college career. I dined in Hall, and went to Woodhouse, and then went to read till 11, but I did not get on very well.

Thursday May 13. I got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7 and 11, but not to lectures, for they have been doing nothing but popular Astronomy. I went out riding with Smith at 1 1/2 to Coton by the Madinglay road. I went into Hall and to Woodhouse who began Hydrostatics, and came home and read till 11.

Friday May 14. Got up at 5 1/2 and went to Peacock at 7 and again at 12, not to lectures. At 1 1/2 went sailing down to the 1st. lock with Barnardiston. Came to Hall and to Woodhouses, and to chapel. At 7 drank tea with Stopford and walked a little with him in the walks. Came home at 8 till 11.

Saturday May 15. I overslept myself and got up at 7 1/2; missed Peacock and lectures, but went to him at 11 1/2. At 12 we both went to a lecture of Sedgwick in Geology; he has only given one before. I thought he did it very well; he only gives 4 lectures this year as obliged by the will of Dr. Woodward. I went to see a match between Kings and University on Parkers piece with Fortescue. Came to Hall and wined with Peacock and met Judgson, Romilly, Lodge, Franks, Whewell, Higman, and Hamilton. I went in a boat with Smith at 5 1/2 down to the 2nd. lock, and got home by 9. Drank tea in his room and came home at 10.

Sunday May 16. I got up at 5 1/4 and read till chapel. After chapel I went to breakfast with Fiott, and met Eden, Brougham, Proby, Stephen and Tom Croft, Greenwood of Jesus, Kindersley, Hildyard, Power, Hewett of Trin., and one more. I went to All Saints and heard Crawley. I then came home and wrote a letter. I went to St. Marys and heard Blomfield, came to Hall and went into Combination room where there was a small party. I went to chapel and then read till 11.

Monday May 17. Up at 5 1/4, with Peacock at 7. Barnardiston breakfasted with me. I went again at 12 to Peacock. At 1

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(86 cont.)

Barnardiston, Smith, Stopford and I went up in two boats to Sophs Pool above Newnham to bathe. I returned at 4. At 5 1/2 I went to dine with Neville and met Mr. Hind and Laycaster of Kings, Mr. Hope and G. A. Browne, Griffith, Crawley, Lodge, Fortescue, Eden, Stuart, Fiott and Goodbehere. I played at whist till 11 and came home.

Tuesday May 18. I got up at 5 1/4 and went to Peacock at 7; not to lectures. I went at 1 with Stopford to play at cricket with Fortescue and Eden, but the rain soon stopped us. I dined in Hall; went to Woodhouses, and to chapel. Took a little walk with Smith

Cambridge May 19 May 26 1819 (87)

afterwards and read till 11.

Wednesday May 19. Up at 5 1/4, and with Peacock from 7. Brecknock came down this morning to take his degree, so I breakfasted at Pratts with him, Fox and Smith. I went again at 12 to Peacock, and staid in till 3 as it rained. I missed hearing Tathams speech for Brecknock in the Senate House. I dined in Hall, and then out riding with Smith, round Shelford, and so across to the Hills till 6, and then came home to read.

Thursday May 20. Up at 5 1/4 and went to chapel at 7. No lectures for our year today. I staid in till 1 and then went and saw Kindersley and walked about a little, but it was raining almost all day. I dined in Hall where was a feast for Ascension Day. I went for a little while into Combination room, and then walked about in the cloisters, with Gambier etc. Went to chapel and then home, went to bed at 10 1/2.

Friday May 21. Up at 5 1/4 and with Peacock at 7. The lectures for our year concluded today but I did not go. At 12 I went out with Gambier, Croft and Guthrie etc., and we walked to Granchester. I dined in Hall and went to Woodhouse who began opticks. I went to chapel, and at 7 went again to Peacock; always with Barnardiston.

Saturday May 22. I was up at 5 1/4, and with Peacock at 7 as usual. At 1 I went out in a boat with Barnardiston notwithstanding heavy rain at the time of our setting off, but it cleared up by the time we turned at the 1st lock. Dined in Hall and came home till chapel. After chapel we went to Peacock again for an hour.

Sunday May 23. I got up at 6. Went to chapel and breakfasted at home. At 10 I went out a little with Gambier to enjoy the sun, and then came home till 2. Went to hear Blomfield at St. Marys; dined in Hall and wined with Monk and met Blomfield, Hustler, Gilby and Evans. I went to chapel and came home for an hour. During which time Hume, Fritzs old shipmate called on me. I went to drink tea at the Lodge. I met Dr. and Mrs. Clarke, Mr. and Mrs. Cripps, Monk, Hustler, E. Peacock, Griffith, Crawley and Noel. We walked and romped in the garden, not excepting Monk, who nearly knocked me over once, and we supped at 11, after which to bed.

Monday May 24. Up at 5 1/4 with Peacock at 7, and at 11. Went at 12 to Sedgwicks lectures and then walked to Parkers piece with Fortescue to see a match between the town and University. Came home to Hall, went to Woodhouse and then home to read.

Tuesday May 25. I got up and went to Peacock as usual, and went sailing with Smith up and down the river. I came to Hall and did not go to Woodhouse, but went to call on Hume at Cath. Hall.

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(87 cont.)

Wednesday May 26. I got up at 5 1/4 and went to Peacock at 7. At 12 1/2 I attended a Masons Lodge and had a degree of master mason conferred on me. I dined at 5 with Brecknock and met Fox, Pratt, and Smith. We had a row as usual after dinner, and I came home at 8.

Thursday May 27. Got up at 7. ( Examination Day ). I went in at 11 with the 2nd. division of our year for Mechanicks viva voce from Mills. At 11 we came out and had dinner in Hall. After dinner I got a horse and took a ride with Smith towards Madinglay. At 3 we came in and had Mechanick question paper from Sedgwick, which I succeded in well enough. I came out at 1/4 to 9 and went to tea with Fox. After which I sat in Smiths room till 11.

(88) Cambridge May 27 June 2 1819

Friday May 28. I breakfasted with Smith, and at 11 went in for Astronomy viva voce, which Sedgwick examined us in. After Hall I walked about a little with Barnardiston. At 3 we had Newton paper from Sedgwick and **** Trig. from Romilly. The latter I got on with well enough, but the former I quite failed at. I went at 9 1/2 to a crowded rout at Mrs. Clarkes in her little house, which completed my disgust about the Newton, but I came away in half an hour and sat a little with Gambier.

Saturday May 29. This is a free day. I got up at 8 1/2 and went to Peacock at ten till 12 1/2 with Barnardiston. At 1 1/2 Sedgwick asked me to walk so we went towards Coton and back again till Hall at 3. It was a feast day. I went to Cummins lectures in chemistry with Sedgwick. He kept us till 6 1/2. I then came to Sedgwicks room and had some wine with Huslow and Lunn of St. Johns. At 7 1/2 I again went to Peacock with Barnardiston.

Sunday May 30. I got up at 7 and went to Peacock then till 11 with Barnardiston. I breakfasted there and then went to attend a ballot at the Eton club. I went to Magdalene with Eden and Lord Bulkeley who was there caught hold of us, and kept us with him for an hour almost. I then came home. At 2 went to St. Marys and heard Clarke preach. Then dined in Hall and had Home walk with me whom I before said to have been in Cambridge. I took him into Combination and to chapel, and then came home to read. At 9 I went for 1/2 an hour to Fiott for a farewell tea party. Gambier, Guthrie, Crawley, De Crespigny, Marton of Trin. were there.

Monday May 31. We went in at 9 and had 3 papers given us; Algebra (2nd. part ) by Gilby, in which I did pretty well. Euclid Lib. XI by Romilly which I finished, and Paleys Moral Philosophy by Peacock which I hardly looked at. At 3 we went in again and had the Diff and Int Calculus paper by Romilly. I did all the diferential part but 2 1/2 questions, and one or two of the Integral. I staid till 9 and then went to tea with Lefevre and met his Father and mother, Peacock, Gambier, Calvert, Brougham, and Ramsay, and G. A. Browne. I came home at twelve.

Tuesday June 1. We went in at 9 and had St. Luke paper from Ward, and a very poor one too. I did all the St. Luke but 2. But no Paley. At 6 I went with the 2nd. Division for St. Luke viva voce, and got through well enough. I went into supper in Hall, the first time, and probably the last!

Wednesday June 2. I got up at 9 1/2. Our business is over, but the Freshmen were in this morning. At 1 the Bishop came into Hall and sat at high table with all the Fellows standing in conclave behind him, and gave a solemn reprimand on the stupidity of certain 20 men in the examination, whose names however he did not mention. At 1 1/2 Brougham, Ramsay, Gambier, Calvert and self took a four oared boat and rowed 8 miles down the river.
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(88 cont.)

We dined at 4 1/2; at the Plow, Pot house near the 2 nd. lock and played at skittles afterwards. We unbarked at 7 and stopped to drink tea and play at quoits at

Cambridge June 3 June 6 1819 (89)

Chesterton and got home about 9. I went and sat with Barnardiston a little while.

Thursday June 3. I got up at 6 3/4. Smith came at 8 1/2 to breakfast with me and set off by the Fly. I was employed settling my affairs and papers most part of the morning. I dined in Hall and then went out in a boat about 5 miles down the river with Barnardiston. We got back about 9 and went to eat some ice at Litchfields, and then came home. And what was my astonishment when I found a note in my door from Fritz, who was at the Bull and had come down to see about me as I had not written. I ran off immediately to see him and brought him up to Trinity. He staid in my room for 1/2 an hour , and then went to the Inn at 11 3/4.

Friday June 4. I got up at 7 1/2, and at 8 1/2 went to Fritz at the Inn. He breakfasted with me at 9. At 10 1/2 we took two horses and rode towards Chesterford. On the road we met Blomfield coming to Cambridge. He turned back and made us go to dinner there. We passed by Ducksford and saw Harris and went and dined at 4, having been on the river there in a boat of his. We set off home at 8, and got in at a quarter to 10 and had tea before going to bed in my room.

Saturday June 5. At 6 we were at Supsfords, on the river side, and we embarked in the Mercury ( 5 oar ) with Gambier, Guthrie, Brougham, Calvert, and Ramsay, and rowed down to Ely. We breakfasted at the Fish Pot house. At Ely, whither we arrived about 11 1/2 we lionised the cathedral thoroughly, and came back again to Cambridge by 9, having dined at the Fish and drank tea at Chesterton. The classes had been fixed and I found myself in the 1st. again with 4 others; Atkinson, Olivant, Paley and Rawlinson. Olivant was again 1st and I 2nd., then Rawlinson 3rd; Atkinson 4th., and Paley last. Barnardiston, Kindersley etc., are in the second class which I am very sorry for.

Sunday June 6. I went to Chapel. Then Fritz and I breakfasted with Gambier. We then called on Neville and Lewin and walked about till St. Marys, where we heard Mr. Inman preach a very bad sermon. Lewin and Fritz dined in Hall with me, and I gave wine to them, Gambier, Guthrie, and Lefevre. We went to Chapel and then Bishop having asked us both; we went at 8 1/2 and walked about the garden with the Miss mansells till supper. Monk, Peacock, Hustler, Mr. Richards and

(90) Cambridge June 7 June 12 1819. London

Sir Francis Blope a new F.C. were there. Fritz liked it very well.

Monday June 7. Gambier, Fritz and I breakfasted in my room at 7 1/2. At 8 Fritz and I went in the Union up to Town. Whither we arrived at 4. We found all well. We had a large dinner (Lords Lauderdale, Albermarle, John Russel, Elkow, Sir William Gordon, Lady Gordon, Lady Sophia Keppel, Lady Elkow, and Lord and Lady King, Mr. Fasakerly, Mr. Watson Taylor, and Bingham who lives in the House. In the evening he and Fritz went in uniforms to Lady Downleys fancy ball. I could not get a dress.

Tuesday June 8. We breakfasted about ten. Bingham always breakfasts alone. I walked about with Fritz and made divers visits and shoppings. My Father dined at the Club. We went to Covent garden, i.e. My Mother, Fritz, and I, and saw Julius Caesar for youngs benefit, and a most stupid farce (Cymon). Fritz and I walked home.

Wednesday June 9. I went to Mr. Bourdin a dancing master in Oxford St. (212) at 9, and came back to breakfast. I walked with Brecknock for some time and then alone. My Father dined at the Trinity anniversary, Bingham with us. We went to the play and saw Mrs. Siddons act in Douglas for C. Kembles benefit. Bingham and I went to Almacks at about 12. I danced one quadrille with Car Pratt and returned at 2.

Thursday June 10. Mr. Bourdin at 9. I walked with Fritz and alone. My Father dined early and went to the House of Lords. My Mother, Fritz and I dined alone. He and I went to Covent Garden and saw the Marriage of Figaro and the Libertine for Miss Stevens benefit. We walked home.

Friday June 11. I went to Mr. Bourdin after breakfast, at 10. Then saw Henry Bridgeman at Sir Geo Gunnings. He is as amicable as ever, and is in orders, and engaged to be married to Miss Simpson, his cousin. I set off at 5 to Clapham where I dined with Mr. Hibbert. I met Lord Albermarle, Lady Sophia Keppel, Old Mr. Keppel, and major General and Lady Elizabeth Fitzroy, Mr. Heathcote, Miss Coke, 2 Miss Hibberts, and Nath. and George Hibbert. It was a pleasant party. I got home in my Hackney at 1.

Saturday June 12. Mr. Bourdin at 9. Then made visits and shoppings. At 3 I set off on horseback with Fritz to Wimbledon on two hired horses. When there we had out a Velocipede of Fritzs till dinner. The place is beautiful. We four had a rubber at whist in the evening.

London June 13 June 17 1819 (91)

Sunday June 13. I went out on the velocipede before breakfast. We went to church and heard Mr. Lindsay preach a very good sermon. After it, Fritz and I were out again on the velocipede to dinner. There came Mr. Pointy, Lord and Lady Clinton, Buller, Pointy, Mr. Grenville, Rogers, Lord Milton, Althorp and Lord John Russell. Some went away at night, but most staid the night.

Monday June 14. I went on the velocipede to Thibets Lodge and back to the door in 33 minutes, being 3 1/2 miles all together. At 11 Lord Milton, Althorp, my Father, Fritz and I rode to London. I walked about with Fritz and Althorp, and went at 4 to Mr. Bourdin. At 6 1/2 I dined at the Alfred; there were there 15 members; Mr. Giles, Mr. Tomline, Nath. Hibbert, Luxmoore, Lord Mountnorris, Lord Valsencia, Mr. Hale, Captain Major ***, Francis Hare, Sir Chas Green, Mr. Warre, the Bishop of Limerick, Mr. Baillie. I came home at 10 and at 11 1/2 went to a rout at Lady Jersey and saw many people whom I knew. I came home at 1 1/2

Tuesday June 15. I went at 9 to Mr. Bourdin. It rained a great deal before 3 or 4 o'clock, so I went out less than usual. I dined at home. There were there also Duncannon, and wife, Col. Shawe and Brecknock. Althorp was not there, but he is removed into this house from Weymouth St. At 11 I went to an assembly at Lady Landsdownes and staid till 12 1/2. I did not find so many acquaintances as yesterday.

Wednesday June 16. To Mr. Bourdin at 9. I went out a little with my Mother in the carriage i.e. to Phillips, and walked with Fritz and heard the Apollonicon etc. He and I dined at 5 1/2 with Sir Everard Home; there were 3 Miss Homes, and Mr. and Mrs. Bushworth, and young Home. I played a rubber at Longs. At 10 1/2 we returned and went with Bingham to Almacks. I danced 4 quadrilles with Jenny Townsend, 2 Georgiana Pratt, Miss Rice and Miss Tierney. In the middle of the last there was an alarm of a house on fire in King St., so I came home to see after our tranquillity at 2 o'clock.

Thursday June 17. Mr. Bourdin at 9. I walked about in divers directions and took a little ride with Fritz on a new horse which we have hired. My Mother, he and I dined alone. He and I got on some new made uniforms at 10 which my Mother had given us to go to Esterpazys ball; mine was made different from

(92) London June 18 June 22 1819 Oxford

what had been intended, and we had an unpleasant discussion about it. We went to Esterpazys in the carriage with Bingham, and staid there 1 1/2 hours; it was very gay. I did not dance.

Friday June 18. I went not to Bourdin as I intended. Brecknock, Fritz and I rode to see Nannette at Richmond. On our return I had an Italian master, for the 1st. time ( Mr. Costantini ). At 4 1/2 Fritz and I dined with my Father and Mother at home and had a rubber at whist. We went to Lady Camden in the evening , which proved a maugue, for not above 10 people were there. The Regent had spoiled her party.

Saturday June 19. My Mother went to Wimbledon. Mr. Costantini came at 2, and I went to Mr. Bourdin at 4. Fritz and I dined in Williss rooms for the Eton anniversary. There were 105 present. I saw Keate, Knapp and many others whom I had lost sight of. I sat between Cowell and Fritz. Lord Falmouth, president. We had toasts, speeches, songs etc., till 10 1/2, and then Fritz and I went to a music party at Lady Duff Gordon which was well filled.

Sunday June 20. We went to church at St. Jamess and heard Mr. Repton. Brecknock, Fritz and I rode over to Wimbledon. Brecknock returned in an hour. George Hibbert was there to dine, and the Vernons, Georgiana Bingham, Mr. and Mrs. Granville, Vernon. We were out a good deal before dinner on the velocipede.

Monday June 21st. Longest day. Fritz and I rode to London. I went to the Savings Bank, to Mr. Waite at 2, and at 5 Mr. Costantini came. At 7 Fritz and I dined at Lord Camdens. There was only Pratt besides themselves. We came away at ten. My Father was at home. I intended to have gone to Almacks for a charity ball, but I thought better of it, and went to bed at 12.

Tuesday June 22. At 8 I set off in the Defiance for Oxford where I arrived at 4 and found Wilton and Fremantle expecting me in the street. Wilton took me to dinner with Mr. Bering, a Fellow of All Souls, to whom he was engaged. We went at 5 and met Mrs and Miss Lidebrown, Miss Thomas, Disbrowe an Etonian, William Buller, Mr. Barrington, Dedes, Ashurst, Fellows of All Souls, and Mr. Bartie. We went to a concert

Oxford June 23 June 30 1819 Cambridge (93)

in the evening which was very hot and crowded, after it Wilton and I had tea with Fremantle.

Wednesday June 23. I breakfasted with Wilton at 9 and met Levison, Gower, Bob Grosvenor, and Fremantle. At 10 1/2 we went to the Theatre where I stood for 4 hours, and was entirely booked up. Degrees were conferred and prises recited. Stanley had the Latin verse. After this we walked about a little, and at 5 1/2 dined at Jubbers the confectioners, us three. In the evening we went to a quadrille party at Mr. Berings of All Souls. There were there his lions as above and most of that party. I danced with Miss Lidebrown, Miss Thomas, and Miss Hall. We had supper. I came home at 3.

Thursday June 24. Wilton and I breakfasted with Tommy and Wilton then set off to Town. At 2 Tommy and I took a gig to Blenheim, and saw the house. We returned to dine at 5 in Common Room at Oriel, where there were: Tyler, Whatley, and Dornford, fellows of Oriel; Buller, Barney and James Stanleys private tutor. We retired at 9, and Barney sat with us some time.

Friday June 25. At 8 I took the Blenheim up to Town, and soon after rode Fatima to Wimbledon where I found the Lytteltons, late from Brighton. My Father was in Town. We did nothing in the evening.

Saturday June 26. I rode the Velocipede a little , and at 2 rode back to town. I dined at 5 at the Alfred, and then took the Mail to Cambridge, whither arriving at 4. I slept at the Bird.

Sunday June 27. I got up at the Bird at 11 and breakfasted there. Then walked to see Gambier, Brougham etc. Heard Robinson at St. Marys. Dined in Hall, went into combination, and to chapel, and drank with Lefevre and met Gambier and Peacock. With them I walked about till past 10 and then retired.

Monday June 28. I am now writing on Saturday 2nd July, having forgotten my journal till this day. I got up late every morning. This day I rode for an hour on a velocipede in Litchfields room; dined in Hall; at 7 went with Gambier to drink tea with Brougham and Ramsay, and with them went to Pot fair and saw a play called Rob Roy with the parts of Diana Vernon and Francis Osbaldestone omitted.

Tuesday June 29. I walked about with Gambier. At 4 went to dine with Fortescue in Magdalene commons, in a private room, and went with him to play at cricket in Parkers piece till 9, and then returned to tea with him.

Wednesday June 30. At 1 I went to be exalted to the rank of Royal Arch. in Masonry with Brougham, Ramsay etc. We then rode their velocipedes out of doors, and at 5 dined with a chapter dinner, which was capital, there

(94) Cambridge July 1. July 5. 1819

were 24 people, and Mr. Honeywood who was there, and by the by turned out a great fool, gave Venison at 8. I went home to Brougham and Ramsay to tea, and saw the latter off by the Mail.

Thursday July 1. I went to breakfast with Stopford and Barnardiston who came yesterday. I dined in Hall and wined with Stopford, Barnardiston and Gambier. The latter and I then went to Brougham, took boat, and went to Chesterton to drink tea and play at bowls and fives. Lefevre also rode there. I sat up till 4 1/2 reading the new tales of my Landlord till broad day light.

Friday July 2. I walked about with Fortescue at 2. Dined in our Hall. Wined with Barnardiston and at 6 went and played at tennis with Brougham who then came to tea with me. Gambier went away this morning.

Saturday July 3. Blomfield and Harvey met me in the court today. Fritz and George Hibbert came by the Heavy at 4. At 5 they and Hervey and Stopford and Barnardiston dined with me. We went in the evening to a concert in the Senate House, and then went in a large party to tea at the Bird. Fritz sleeps in a bed in my room. The Duke of Gloucester, the Duchess, and Princess Sophia came today at 8.

Sunday July 4. I went to chapel. After which George Hibbert in Gambiers room gave breakfast to me, Fritz, Eden, his brother Morton, Eden, Lefevre and his brother; Nath. Hibbert, Smith, and Brougham. I just got into St. Marys, but soon came out again, for it was crowded to suffocation. I then walked a great deal about with Brougham. At 4 1/2 Fritz and I dined at the Bird and Baby with 3 Edens, 2 Hibberts, Vane of Magdalene, Foley, Allan, Spencer Percival and his brother Henry who were just arrived, and Drewe. I went to our Chapel. The Duke of Gloucester etc., were there, and sat under a crimson canopy. In the evening there was a grand promenade in Clare Hall piece. I went there. We had a party at tea to the Bird . At ten I went to a fine supper at the Lodge, where I was introduced to the 3 Royal personages, who were very gracious.

Monday July 5. I gave breakfast to 2 Hibberts, 2 Edens and Drewe. At 12 we went into the Senate House where the Honorary degrees were conferred. I was the first of our set which were Stopford, Eden, Moore, Cavendish, Sir Hedworth Williamson, Sykes, Mr. Calthorpe, and Mr. Nevill. I walked about a good deal till 5 when we had the dinner in Trinity Hall, which was magnificently done. After dinner I went to the concert which was excessively crowded. After having given tea to our party. At 11 we returned to play at whist and sup in my room, being 2 Edens, 2 Hibberts, Percival and Stopford, and Brougham.

Cambridge July 6 July 8 1819 (95)

Stopford was made a great fool of by Percival.

Tuesday July 6. I gave breakfast to Blomfield, his Father, his brother James, Moreton, Hervey, and Stevenson. Afterwards we were all busy preparing for the publick breakfast in Trin. Cloisters, and in standing in the Senate House to hear the Odes recited. The breakfast did begin at 4, and at 4 the rain began and did not cease pouring the whole time. I was a manager with 39 others, but got nothing to eat. I was also a dancing manager, and having got the people to collect in the Hall, and the table cleared, we danced a country dance before their Royal Highnesses at the top of the Hall. I led it with Lady June Neville. The Duke etc., then moved to the platform in the cloisters where we again danced after a great fuss with the band, which badgered me extremely as all the other managers did nothing. This being finished I went and got some eating at the Bird, and then in the rain walked with Percival and Eden to a royal party at Mrs. Freres where there was singing etc., and supper. I came home at 1.

Wednesday July 7. Breakfasted with Hibbert and Fritz in Gambiers room; missed Kings chapel. Played at tennis with Fritz at 1. Dined with Percival at the Bird at 7 and met G. Hibbert, Shore, H. Percival and Fritz. Then went to the Ball of which I was steward, and which had cost me infinite trouble to prepare. The music was Paynes from London, and very good. It went off pretty well; about 270 people. I opened it with Miss Rowley, and then danced with Miss Fanny Mansell, Miss Townley, Mrs. Fox Lane, and Caroline Mansell. We had alternately 2 country dances and 2 quadrilles. Came home at 4. The corporation cook provided supper with the assistance of Waud the London confectioner.

Thursday July 8. I forget where I breakfasted, it being a week ago, but at 3 I set off in a chaise with Hervey to Chesterford where we dressed and went on with Blomfield to Audley End to meet the same royal party at dinner, there were 38 people: the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester, Princess Sophia, Lady Isabella Thynne, Lady Rosslyn, Major Curgon, Mr. Currie, Lord and Lady Grosvenor, Mr. Neville and Lady Jane, George Neville and Lady Charlotte, Lady Glyn, Fortescue, Lady Vincent, Sir Francis Vincent, G. A. Browne, Monk, Mr. Tavel, Tatham, Renounard, Griffith, Mr. Humblayne, Mr. Smith and son, the Bishop of London, Noel, Mr. Hodgkinson etc., etc. It was a magnificent entertainment. In the evening I played at **** ***** ******* with the Duchess of Gloucester, and we returned to Chesterton.

(96) Cambridge July 9 July 13 1819 Wimbledon

Friday July 9. After breakfast with Blomfield I returned to Cambridge in a chaise with Noel who had slept at the Crown. When there I walked about with Gambier, Lefevre etc., Gambier having returned yesterday. I was introduced to Mr. Lowther, who took me to Wimpole to dine. There were 35 people, several the same as at Audley End. Among the others Mr. and Mrs. Fox Lane, Mr. Smyth, Mr. Pepys, Lady Clunricardi, Lady Messborough, Lady Cotton, Miss Rowley etc., etc. They played at Commerce, but I did not. I slept at Mr. Cheaps, the clergyman of the parish.

Saturday July 10. We breakfasted at 10 1/2, but separate from the royal party. We then paraded all about the Pleasure ground to the Dairy etc., and heard the Duke of Gloucesters sensible remarks and questions. I walked about with Mrs. Fox chiefly, who is pretty but rather silly. We went over in full body to a breakfast at Bourn, Lord Delawares place, at 3 miles dist., which was very well conducted, in a small rural house of his. There were many other people besides. I went in Mr. Pepyss gig. We returned about an hour before dinner. Among those of the party not mentioned yesterday were Lady Harriet Lindsay, Lord and Lady Delaware, Sir Andrew Barnard etc. There came today Fortescue, Cavendish, Lord and Lady Warwick, Renouard, etc., etc. I played at Commerce with the Duchess and Princess, and won the pool for my glory. I came home to Cambridge in a chaise with Fortescue and Cavendish. The house is very fine at Wimpole, but the thing was not so well done as at Audley End. Lady Pollington did the honors.

Sunday July 11. I got up and breakfasted with Gambier, then walked about with him, Lefevre, Guthrie, Stainforth etc. Went to St. Marys where Mr. Shepshanks preached, dined in Hall, went into Combination room, and then to Chapel; and drank tea with Lefevre and met Peacock, Gambier, Guthrie and Ramsay, and then walked about with them.

Monday July 12. I was to have gone this morning to Town, but I gave my place to Gambier who had particular business in Town. I was employed packing till 3 when I went and played at tennis with Lefevre. I dined with Peacock at 5 and met Hustler, Whewell and Lefevre. We played at whist and I retired about 10, and after settling some things in my room and sitting a little with Sedgwick went to sleep at the Bird to wait for the Fly the next morning.

Tuesday July 13. I set off at 9 in the Fly and reached London at 4, then took a chaise and came to dinner at Wimbledon. I found the Lytteltons, the Vernons, Bingham and Georgiana Bingham. In the evening I read scraps of Crabbes Poems.

Wimbledon July 14 July 20. 1819 Stowe (97)

Wednesday July 14. My Father set off for Northampton for the Quarter sessions. Fritz, Bingham and I rode to Town together, where Fritz and I walked about with Moreton whom we met for a good while, and came back again after dinner, we did nothing particular. I retired at 11 and wrote my journal which I had neglected for several days.

Thursday July 15. In the morning I rode a little the Velocipede etc. At 2 Fritz and I rode to Town where we were to dine, and in our way called on Mr. Hibbert at Clapham, and then walked about the Town a little. We had taken physic in the morning. The Lytteltons came also to Town. After dinner we all went to hear the Appollonicon performed upon by 5 musicians for about 2 or 3 hours, and it was very beautiful.

Friday July 16. Walked with Sarah to Phillips's and saw Fritz sit for his picture, and did divers other things. At 3 rode back with Fritz to Wimbledon to dinner. In the evening we had a rubber at whist.

Saturday July 17. After spending the morning as usual, at 2 I walked with Lyttelton to see his house at Putney, which he has newly hired, and is now setting in order. It seemed likely to be very comfortable, we staid there a good while. In walking back we were joined by Lord Castlereagh on horseback for about a mile. The first time of my seeing that illustrious personage. After dinner I read Humphry Clinker for we had no whist.

Sunday July 18. My Mother, Fritz and I went to church. Mr. Lindsay having been lately married is keeping his honeymoon away, so a Mr. Lancaster preached. After this we walked with my Mother round the garden and le petit tour etc. Moreton and a son of Sir Charles Morgan, a old shipmate of Fritzs came to dine, and went away in the evening.

Monday July 19. At 7 Fritz and I set off from Wimbledon in a chaise to Town where we found Moreton, breakfasted with him at Jaquivers, and then in a carriage hired from Thrupps, with Francois our servant on the box, we set off for Stowe by the Uxbridge and Missendon road. At Aylesbury we stopped about 3 1/2 and had some luncheon. There Lord Nugent caught us, and made us stop to dine at Lilies, saying we would be too late for the Stowe dinner. We dined there at 5, there being only Lord and Lady Nugent, and another Lady whose name I could not make out. At 8 we again set out, and passed through the road about Dunton, so well known to me, and arrived at Stowe about 10, where we found a large party, but none whom I knew besides Sir George and Lady Nugent with his family, young Lady Nugent who had gone just before us. There were also among others Lord and Lady Ronndel, Lord and Lady Temple, Lord Westmeath, Sir Wm. Clayton and family etc. We three played at billiards, and went to bed at 12 1/2.

Tuesday July 20. We got up and went to a dreadful formal breakfast at 10 1/2, then walked about etc. At 1 we were dressed; and the company began to arrive.

(98) Stowe July 21 July 24 1819 Wimbledon

for a publick breakfast, to be given today, for the people of the county on the marriage of Lord Temple. The collation was in the green house, and lasted off and on till about 5! The day was very well suited to the purpose; fine, but cool and not sunny. The beautiful grounds were fitted out with tents and stages for dancing. There were two military bands, and two dancing ones. There were Maurice dancers and a juggler. I danced 5 or 6 quadrilles with Miss Fitzroy, Miss Nugent, Miss Skinner, 2 Miss Leighs, and Miss Clayton, and one country dance with Miss Skinner. At 8 we had dinner. I think about 400 sat down in 4 or 5 rooms. I was in the 2nd. near Fritz. There were to have been fireworks, but it began to rain for the whole night at 8. So we only played at billiards, and walked about us in an assembly till 1 o'clock. Fremantle was there ( from Oxford ) and Mr. Rogers. Mr. Bartac, and a whole lot of Buckinghamshire clergymen, whom we used to see at Dunton. Some of the company stayed till 4.

Wednesday July 21. Fritz and I were to have set off at 8, but the horses did not come till 11. So we had to breakfast in state with the 50 people who inhabit the house. And then, notwithstanding the violent pressing of Lady Buckingham for us to stay for a ball tonight, we came away, as my mother had desired it. So farewell to Tommy Fremantle till I see him at Naples this winter, as I hope to do. We mad an expensive journey of it, as we were bullied into having four horses from Watford, which road we took this time. We arrived in town at 8, and being just in time for the Wimbledon coach, we went by the outside of it, and got home about 10, and had some cold meat before going to bed. We found Nannette come over from Richmond, and my Father returned from Althorp.

Thursday July 22. After breakfast I walked with my Mother, and Sarah. And at 1 I set off riding to town with Fritz. We started to come back at 5. I only settled my rattletraps in the house, and went to the Alfred for half an hour. Sir Archibald McDonald, Miss McDonald, Roger Wilbraham, and George Isted dined with us. Lyttelton was gone to Worcester assizes. After the company were gone, the ladies had a game at whist.

Friday July 23. At 11 I went to Town with my Mother and Father in the carriage. There I went about shopping etc., till I returned with my Mother alone. In the evening we played at whist.

Saturday July 24. Breakfasted at 9. Then set off in the carriage with my Father, Sarah and Fritz, to see a review on Hounslow Heath. At Roehampton we stopped and picked up Lady Duncannon. The review was of regiments of Lancers, the 9th. 12th. and 19th. under Fred Ponsonby as senior Colonel. The Regent and Duke of York etc., etc., were there. We had our carriage very well placed, and saw the maneuvres famously. I had never seen a review before, the charges were the finest things I could conceive. Nannette was gone away when we returned, and Althorp had just walked over from
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(98 cont.)

London, being last from Althorp. In the evening we played at whist. A change has been made in our schemes which is a bad one for me, individually. That Fritz is to sail to South America with Sir Thomas Hardy who goes with a squadron of 6 ships then, wherefore

Wimbledon July 25 July 31 1819 (99)

I shall be comparatively alone abroad. But it is so fine a thing for him, that I am very glad of it altogether. Bob has one of the 6 ships, ( the Owen Glendowr ).

Sunday July 25. We went to church and heard a Mr. Brande, as Mr. Lindsay is yet keeping his honeymoon. I did nothing afterwards but stroll about with Sarah, Fritz etc. We had a party to dinner, Lord and Lady Melville, and Mr. Dindas, 2 Duncannons, Fred Ponsonby, Sir Ben Dowell, Sir Thomas Hardy, Lord Stain and six of ourselves as yesterday. Fred Ponsonby slept here.

Monday July 26. Fritz and I had a game at cricket with Will Jones and some more servants. Afterwards he went to fish in the pond. I took there Humphrey Clinker, which I finished. Bingham came to dine and sleep, for a farewell as he goes abroad on Thursday. He is a very nice fellow, and will be, if he does not get spoiled.

Tuesday July 27. At 1, my Father, Althorp, Fritz and I went in the carriage to Hampton Court, to see the stud horses of the Regent there. They would not shew the mares without a particular order, which we had not got. From thence Fritz rode to Town, and we returned, and in the way lunched at the Star and Garter at Richmond. The Duncannons dined here. In the evening I read some of Dodwells tour in Greece, where I hope to go.

Wednesday July 28. My Father, Althorp, Fritz and I went in the carriage to Combe Warren where we shot rabbits, but had not very good sport. There dined with us Mr. Heber, Dibdin and Petrie, and Mr. and Mrs. Tooke. Mr. Petrie has just been cluled to the office of the Keeper of the Records in the Tower, in the place of Mr. Licence. Petrie is a very clever man, and excellent in his way as an antiquarian. They all went away in the evening.

Thursday July 29. Fritz and I rode to Town where we walked about on different errands. I saw Frederick Ponsonby play at tennis. Lyttelton and Sarah are gone today to enter into their house at Putney for the first time. And Fritz and I called there as we returned from Town. It seemed very comfortable; they have it for 5 years. The children were all 3 there at supper. Althorp left us today to go to Wiseton on his way to the north of Scotland where he and Fred Ponsonby have got a manor for the season, and are going to shoot grouse; so our party was reduced to 4. In the evening I read Dodwells travels.

Friday July 30. Fritz went to see Hume at Ham. I went to Putney on horseback with my Father, to see Sarah. He likes the house very much. It was extremely hot. On my return I played a little at cricket, and played with Duncannons children whom he brought here.In the evening a rubber at whist.
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(99 cont.)

Saturday July 31. At Sarahs request of yesterday, Fritz and I rode over to her in the morning, and she made us presents of a tooth pick case each. Fritz went on to Town. I came back after staying there some time. I was bilious yesterday and today, and accordingly miserable. Better in the evening. Old Mr. Bedingfield dined with us, and brought two frightful bastard children with him ( a boy and a girl ) who came in to dessert. After he was gone we had a rubber at whist.

(100) Wimbledon Aug 1. Aug 8. 1819

Sunday Aug 1. I took black dose this morning for the heat had made me bilious, but this appears to have cured me, this evening. I could not go to morning church, but went to evening service after walking about a little alone. It thundered a good deal from 2 till 5 or 6. Mr. Lindsay is come back from keeping his honeymoon and preached. The Lytteltons, Duncannons, Fred Ponsonby and Mr. Hatchett, and Lord Essex dined here. Frederick sets off for Wiseton tomorrow.

Monday Aug 2. Fritz went to Town with my Father. I staid at home and saw Mr. and Mrs. Allen who came to visit here, then called on Mrs. Marriott with my Mother. I walked to dine at Putney where I found Fritz at 5 1/2. They are very comfortably established, and I liked it very much; we sat out a little after dinner. My Father and Mother dined at Lord Liverpools. We rode home at 10 1/2.

Tuesday Aug 3. Fritz and I rode over to London, while my Father and Mother and the Lytteltons went in the carriage. We went to Chantreys etc., and to Westmacotes bronze statue to the Duke of Wellington. At 2 Fritz and I went to see a sparring exhibition in the Minor Theatre Catherine St., which however did not amuse me much and was very blackguard. No good pugilists came forward. We then walked with my Father to Phillipss, and then rode back here. In the evening a rubber at whist.

Wednesday Aug 4. At 12 Fritz and I having gone down to the pond to sail a schooner of his, it got into the weeds where it is now, notwithstanding that we pulled it for 2 hours. I am learning Italian, but get on slowly. After dinner a rubber at whist.

Thursday Aug 5. At 1 I went out shooting with my Father round the lawn and plantations about the house, and killed a hare from my left shoulder, which method I intend to practise. I then came and played cricket with 7 or 8 servants till dinner. Fritz had ridden to Town. My horse is dead lame. The Duncannons dined here, and very nice people they are. After they were gone we had one rubber at whist.

Friday Aug 6. Before breakfast I walked to Thibets Lodge with a pedometer to measure the distance, and measured other distances after breakfast till 11 1/2. And then my Father, Fritz and I went in the carriage and took up the Lytteltons to the Tower Stairs whence we were to set off on an expedition down the river. We started at 2, being joined by the Duncannons, Mr. Hibbert, his nephew Wm. Hibbert, and Mr. Beaudieu and Mitchell, two chairmen of the West India docks. We had a large boat with an awning, and went down to the docks which we lionised. Old Hibbert is a great proprietor in them, and George Hibbert has just entered the firm. Nath Hibbert joined us then. They are a magnificent work of art and labour. We saw warhouses for coffee, sugar, rum and cotton, which have at times contained £2,000,000 worth of goods. We hence

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went on to dine at the Crown and Sceptre at Greenwich, where we fared capitally, particularly in white bait and other fish. We had some fun in giving Lerambles to boys and girls *********** windows, of fruit and half pence. At 8 1/2 we started back, and having landed near Tooley Street, we got into our carriages and went on to Vauxhall, the first time I ever was there. Mad Sacchi exhibited in ascending on a rope. We returned to Wimbledon about 2.

Saturday Aug 7. I got up late. After breakfast read Italian till 2, then went shooting with my Father till 3 1/2 (rabbits and hares). Came home and played at cricket with Fritz who had been to Town and some servants till dinner. In the evening played at whist.

Sunday Aug 8. I went to church morning and evening. Nannette and Sarah with Lyttelton came to dine and sleep, and the Duncannons came to dine. Fritz walked to Putney in the morning, but I only walked about here.

Wimbledon Aug 9 Aug 19. 1819 H.M. Ganymede Spithead(101)

Monday Aug 9. I set off at 12 to Town on a new horse which has been hired for me, and there walked about on different errands and looked in at the Alfred. I rode back with Fritz. Mr. Grenville, Rogers, Blomfield and Harris came to Wimbledon today. Harris comes from Duxford and has brought a tame crow with him. I felt quite sick before dinner today, from I know not what, and could eat only a few mouthfulls of meat.

Tuesday Aug 10. I went at 8 1/2 with Fritz and bathed in the Pond.
At 11 1/2 we began a match at cricket between the Park and Village of Wimbledon. And we beat, though I had not much share in it. The Lytteltons dined and sleep here. I played at whist with my Father, Mr. Grenville and Blomfield.

Wednesday Aug 11. After breafast I played at cricket with Fritz, and at billiards with Blomfield. And passed the rest of my time as I could, badly enough as our party has mostly gone to see Lord Desarts at Ham. Nannette came for a day or two, and Duncannon and Lord Guilford dined here, the latter held forth on different topics till 10. After which we had a rubber at whist. I bathed before breakfast with Fritz and Blomfield.

Thursday Aug 12. I went with Blomfield to the village and saw him off in the coach at 9. After breakfast I staid at home till 3, reading Italian, and then walked to Putney and sat an hour with Sarah who sung to me. She removed from Wimbledon this morning. I went in 36 and came back in 31 minutes, without running a step. In the evening I played at whist with my Father, Grenville, and Nannette, and sat for an hour till 1 in the refuge.

Aug 13. Friday. Fritz and I practised a little at cricket, and then went in the carriage with my Father to Combe Warren to shoot rabbits. I killed 12, out of 18 shots, which is the best I ever did; and it was with my left shoulder. I did not play at whist in the evening, but read some Moliere, and after 11 some Italian.

Saturday Aug 14. Nannette and Rogers went away today. Fritz and I, and a few servants, had two single wicket matches in which he won the first, I the second. At 5 I came in and read some Metastasis till 6. After dinner played at whist.

Sunday Aug 15. Fritz and I went to bathe. I went to church and heard Mr. Lindsay, then rode with my Father, called on Mr. Marryatt, and then on Lord Lilford at Richmond; in Nannettes old house. We saw him and his two daughters. Nannette was not at home. It was very hot riding. There dined with us the Bessboroughs, Duncannons, and William and Lady Barbara Ponsonby; the last two are just returned from abroad, where they have been two years. They are now going to Westfield with the Bessboroughs for Lady Barbara to lie in.
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(101 cont.)

Monday Aug 16. We had another match with the village eleven today and they beat us. It was a much better game than the last, tho' I did little in it. We shall play them a conqueror on Thursday. Mr. Grenville went away today, but will return soon. We 4 had a rubber in the evening.

Tuesday Aug 17. Fritz and I rode to Town. He called at the Admiralty and found that Bob had come to Portsmouth in the Ganymede. He therefore returned immediately. I staid and walked to Fleet St., and then to Audley St., and called on Sarah in returning. I found Nannette at Wimbledon. My Father, Fritz and I, now, at 10 o'clock, are about to start for Portsmouth.

Wednesday Aug 18. We arrived at Portsmouth at about a quarter to 8, after travelling all night; my Father, Fritz and I inside the chariot, and Francois and William on the outside. We dressed and breakfasted at the George, and went on board the Ganymede at the Motherbank in the Admirals barge. She was just released from quarantine. Bob looked very much as usual; very good natured and very officerlike and seemed very well. In short our meeting was very satisfactory. My Father remained in the ship when she sailed and anchored at Spithead. Bob, Fritz and I went for some time on shore at Portsmouth, and returned to dinner on board. There dined there also Captain Duncan of the Liffey, and Captain Dunn, Mr. Kirkby the chaplain, and Edward Hibbert a Lieutenant of the Gany. Lyttelton came down also to see Bob, and arrived in the middle of dinner. We went to bed early in cots hung in the cabin; which is not a good one on the whole.

Thursday Aug 19. Bob was called yesterday to a court martial which kept him all today also. My Father went to Portsmouth with us, and Sir George Gray walked him and me about the dock yard till we were bored. There dined with us Captain Hickie of the Blossom, Lieutenant Higs and Milburn Bobs first lieutenant. Lyttelton was sick this morning, and slept no more on board.

(102) Spithead. Aug 20 Aug 31 1819 Wimbledon.

Friday Aug 20. We had the commissioners yacht today, and we all sailed to Ryde in her except Bob who was still on the court martial. Lord and Lady Bessborough, and William Ponsonby and Lady Barbara were at Westfield, which has been lent them. We settled to dine with them, and so we strolled about from 12 till 6. Bob came about that time; the place is truly brilliant. I took Gil Blas as my companion. We returned to the ship in the evening. I have made acquaintance with Edward Hibbert who is a very dear and agreeable fellow.

Saturday Aug 21. We again went sailing in the commissioners yacht, taking Bobs pinnace in tow. We persued the royal yacht, in which the Prince Regent is sailing about here. My Father and Bob went on board of her to pay their respects, and staid a long time. On our return to Ganymede, Lady Bessborough and William came to see her for a quarter of an hour. Talbot, one of Bobs mids dined with us. We always walked the deck after dinner.

Sunday Aug 22. Talbot breakfasted with us at 7. We went on shore and set off for Wimbledon in the Chariot and a hack chaise. No adventure, but the rumble tumble breaking down. We found Sarah, Nannette, Grenville and the Vernons in the house, and the Duncannons came to dine. I read a little in the evening.

Monday Aug 23. I went to bathe alone before breakfast. After, I rode to Town, and there walked about till 3 1/2. Then rode home by Clapham and told Mrs. Hibbert of her sons appointment as lieutenant to the Owen Glendower. The Vernons and Mr. Grenville are gone away. In the evening I played at whist, and then read some Italian till 1. Mr. Chilow dined here.

Tuesday Aug 24. My Father, Bob, Fritz and I went shooting on Combe Warren where we met Duncannon. It was very hot. We had very good sport. Dr. Wilson our travelling companion came to dine here and sleep. We played at whist afterwards. Fritz and Bob set off at 9 for Chatham to see the Owen Glendower, and come back tomorrow.

Wednesday Aug 25. I rode to Roehampton after breakfast, and then went out shooting with my Father in the Park about 2. He only staid out a short time, and came in on account of a fit of gravel which attacked him. I staid out till 5 1/2. The Duncannons, Sir George Cockburn, and Sir Benjamin Hallowell dined here. My Father was in bed and could not appear. I hope now he is getting better. Bob was obliged to start again tonight for Portsmouth, to pay off the Ganymede, and will have to take her round to the Downs.

Thursday Aug 26. Sarah and Lyttelton went home this morning. We had a cricket match, the married against the single; we made up 2 elevens out of the Village and Park. The single beat, but I got no knotches as usual. We played at whist, and I read some of the
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(102 cont.)

shipwreck of the Oswego.

Friday Aug 27. The Pratts and Brecknock were to be in town today on their way to Ireland for a tour with Lord Camden, so I went over in the carriage with my Father, and Fritz rode. But I missed seeing Brecknock, Harris went with us also, and I took him to Waites. In coming back we called on Sarah. In the evening whist, and finished the Oswego.

Saturday Aug 28. About 12 1/2 Fritz and I and some servants had a game at cricket till 6, and then came in well exercised to dinner. In the evening whist.

Sunday Aug 29. Old Mr. Norris came to breakfast here this morning, and staid till 2 or 3. He went with us to church, as also did Chilver, who came to see my Father. They had luncheon here. I walked about with Fritz and Harris. Nannette and the Lytteltons came back today; and besides them the Duncannons, Sir Andrew Barnard, Mr. Bedingfield, and George Isted dined here.

Monday Aug 30. Harris, poor boy, went away at 7 this morning. The rain began today and lasted very violently till 4. I then walked with my Mother a little; besides that I staid at home. Fritz was in Town and has received his appointment to the Superb, which we fear will oblige him to join her soon. Bob came back again today, and is likely to stay with us now for some time.

Tuesday Aug 31. All the house full went to Town, except me and Nannette. I walked to Clapham and saw Mrs. Hibbert, and asked the men to dine here tomorrow.

Wimbledon. Sep 1. Sep 13. 1819 Rochester (103)

After dinner we played at whist and discharged some fireworks.

Wednesday Sep 1. Fritz was sitting today to George Lewis for his picture in lead pencil. At 12 we went out shooting to preserve the charter of the day, and we had a good days work of it. Old Hibbert, George and Edward dined here. We had no whist but some more fireworks. My Father 61 years old today.

Tuesday Sep 2. This was a melancholy forenoon for us all. For at 11 Fritz left us to go and join the Superb at Plymouth. We both shall have gone a great way before we meet again. But I hope to see him in two years at most ( a Captain ). These partings are sad things, but they must happen. I went out shooting in the Park with my Father and Bob. In the evening whist.

Friday Sep 3. My Father, Bob and I went to shoot at Combe Warren, and the adjoining fields. I walked a long time, very briskly, and did myself great good by it. Whist as usual in the evening.

Saturday Sep 4. My Father, Bob, Lyttelton and I went to Town in the coach at 11. I walked about there alone, till we came back to dinner. Sir Ben Hallowell and his son Charles, one of Bobs mids, dined here; they went at 10 and then we had some whist.

Sunday Sep 5. I went to church and took the Sacrament from Mr. Lindsay. It rained a good deal so I staid at home almost all the morning. We dined at 4, today, and afterwards my Father, Bob and I went off to Sandridge near St. Albans, to the house of Mr. Clarke, a rich tenant of my Fathers, there to shoot partridges. We called on Lady Headford at West End on the way. Mr. Clarke is a little talkative man, but very much above the run of farmers or squires, and very civil. He has pictures worth more than £2,000 in his house.

Monday Sep 6. At 10 1/2 we set out shooting, and I never saw such good sport. We staid out till 6, and then came home to dinner at 7. At 2 we came in for half an hour for luncheon. We were fed most sumptuously, and went to bed at 10 1/2.

Tuesday Sep 7. I went alone shooting today, and saw a great deal of game, but shot very ill. Mr. Clarke came with me. We came again to lunch at 2, and all met to dinner.

Wednesday Sep 8. We went out all together at 9 1/2, and shot till 2. Then at 3 set off for London. We there found the Lytteltons and my Mother. Dined at 7. I retired during the evening, and sat up settling my papers till 2 o'clock.

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(103 cont.)

Thursday Sep 9. I wrote a few letters and then went out and saw sights with Lyttelton, and went over to Westminster Abbey. We dined at 6 1/2. Mr. Watson Taylor, and Colonel Shawe dined with us. It was very hot and oppressive today.

Friday Sep 10. At 2 I again started with Lyttelton and went in a boat from Whitehall to London bridge, and went up the Monument, and then up and all over St. Pauls, for I ought to know the lions of London a little, before going to see those of Paris. Althorp came back today from his Scotch expedition with Fred Ponsonby, and breakfasted here. Dr. Wilson, Fred Ponsonby, and Sir Gilbert Blane dined with us. We played at whist after they were gone.

Saturday Sep 11. I went out at 12 with Bob upon his business in the city. We walked and rowed a great deal in different directions, and went to many fold tradesmen, and shot London bridge. After dinner some of us went to Covent garden; but in rain; for we found my Mothers box full, so we returned and played at whist.

Sunday Sep 12. I went to church at St. Jamess, and after that sat at home, excepting one walk to Pimlico with Lyttelton. The Duncannons dined with us, from Roehampton. Bob set off to Chatham after dinner. We were rather sombre this evening, as we set off tomorrow on a most formidable expedition in some respects.

Monday Sep 13. After breakfast I went about the town paying bills. We parted with the Lytteltons and Althorp this morning, and about 1 1/2 we set off for Rochester. 1st. to Blackheath, 8 miles, Dartford ( 7 ), and Rochester 14. We there dined with Bob whose ship lay near Chatham. In the evening my Mother was not well with the journey. We played at whist.

(104) Rochester Sep 14 Sep 18 1819 Chantilly

Tuesday Sep 14. My Father, Dr. Wilson and I went on board the Owen Glendower with Bob after breakfast. She has a round stern which is very ugly, and altogether he does not like her much. At 12 we started for Dover. Through Sittingbourne (11 miles), Canterbury (16), and Dover (14). Dr. Wilson and I went separate in a post chaise. At Canterbury we saw the Cathedral. We reached Dover about 4. We were to have slept there, but the wind was so fair that we determined to start. So we got on board Mr. Boxers vessel and sailed with beautiful weather. We had a good breeze half way over, but then it became calm and we anchored. In the morning we sailed again and got into Calais harbour about 7 1/2 with the help of a French boat which came to us. After a pasage of 13 1/2 hours.

Wednesday Sep 15. We breakfasted at about 8 at Quillacs Hotel, in very nice apartments. And then we dressed and Dr. Wilson and I walked about a little, to the market place and the church, both which were extraordinary to the greatest degreee in my eyes. After that I wrote letters, and walked again alone. At 5 we dined. Captain Boxer dined with us. In the evening Bob took leave (I fear) for good (three years!). We settled matters with Luigi Cavani our courier and went to bed early.

Thursday Sep 16. We breakfasted at 8, and then started on our journey. 1st. went my Father and Mother in their cariage with four horses; 2nd. Dr. Wilson and I in a hired Caleche with 2 horses; 3rd. Drewe and the two maids in one with three horses; and last, the faurgon with 3. This was our order of march. I was amused extremely by the difference of this from of our English posting. The appearance of the postilions is so new to me as they crack their long whips over their heads, and the little horses with their rope harness look so very mean. Luigi rode post to order horses, and manage everything for us, and was always found waiting at every relay. We dined and slept at Montreuil, where we had a thorough specimen of a French Inn. The country between this place and Calais was very ugly, but we could not see much of it, as it rained incessantly the whole day. We played at whist this evening.

Friday Sep 17. Started at 9 and came to Amiens. The weather was better, but there was some rain in the morning. The country was again today very ugly. I miss the English hedge rows very much; which make a country look comfortable, at least if they do not give it beauty. We changed horses at Abbeville; where I saw Robert Otway and Mr. Longly of Ch. Ch. his former tutor, a great friend of Dr. Wilson. They are living there for to read together, for nothing else could have settled them in a place which appears to be falling to pieces with neglect, and truly delabre. We reached Amiens about 5 1/2, and found a very good Inn (L'Hotel de la Poste Royale) which had a most talkative landlady, and a prodigious crowd of beggars into the bargain. The last stage we had a vicious mare in our calache which had such a paroxism of kicking about a league from Amiens, that we were obliged to come on in the carriage. Our
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rattletrap somehow escaped unbroken. We went to the Cathedral for a short time before dinner, with what they call a commissionaire; being a ragged fellow who goes as cicerone. We retired soon after dinner.

Saturday Sep 18. We all went to the Cathedral again this morning. It is said to be the finest in France. It is in fact magnificent. The West front is entirely covered with exquisite carved work, and the whole exterior is very highly wrought. The architecture is Gothic. Inside it is not so striking as outside, but it is as fine in its way as anything I have ever seen in England, except perhaps York Minster. The length is 466 feet, which is not obstructed as usual by the organ being in the middle. Masse was being performed when we were there, and there were several people at the different chapels round the church, at which separate priests performed; but they were chiefly old hags of women. The first part of our road today was through barren and ugly country; but the last half was very cheerful. The weather was beautiful. We arrived at Chantilly about 6, dined, played at whist, and went to bed. This is a good Inn enough, but it is very much fallen off, I fancy since the pulling down of the palace of the Prince of Condi which was near this place and drew together a great concourse of company. We again had a talkative hostess who was the image of Mrs. Acklom rejeunie. The floors were all covered with brick flags.

Chantilly Sep 19 Paris Sep 25 1819 Fontainebleau (105)

Sunday Sep 19. I went before breakfast to look at the stables of the Duc de Bourbon which formerly belonged to the Condi Palace. They give a vast notion of what that must have been; if the Palace and the stables are on the same comparative scale as with us. They are partly in delabrees, but there was one stable which was divided into two parts by a dome which rose in the middle. One part only was fitted up, and in that there were 88 stalls, and about 5 horses! There is here also a tennis court where I struck a few balls, in the place that Kings and princes have stood to play. After breakfast we set off for Paris, about 26 miles off. We passed thro' St. Denis, and stopped to see the Abbaye where they were preparing for grand Masse. This is the burial place of the kings of France, but is now under repair, and has lost all the appearance of antiquity which it had from the outrages of the Revolution. We came into Paris by the side of Montmartre, and came to the Hotel de la terrasse des Thuilleries. We had apartments looking over the gardens of Thuilleries, splendidly furnished, but without any attention to comforts. Dr. Wilson and I went out to ramble over the Town and saw the Les jardins des Thuilleries, les Champs Elysees etc., etc., but went inside no place. We dined at 5 1/2. And my Father, Dr. Wilson and I went to the play. We tried at the Theatre de Variete, but it was full, so we went to another where we saw Le Sages play of Turcaret, and Molieres of George Dandin. This was at the Theatre Francais. The actors there were second rate.

Monday Sep 20. I went in the carriage first with my Father, and then again with him and my Mother. We went to various shops, and went through many different parts of the Town. At Brequests, the watch maker, we saw some beautiful things. At 5 Mr. McDonald and Lady Sophia his new married wife, and Mr. and Mrs. Chilver dined with us. We all went to the opera at 7. The house is very beautiful and rich; not quite so large as the English opera house; and the spectacle was all through very well managed; but the singing was very bad. The dancing was very good. I thought its chief merit was that all the inferior dancers did their parts so well. We went into Tortonis for ices. As we returned I saw two Cambridge characters coming out of the Opera, Hustler of Jesus and Crawley.

Tuesday Sep 21. I took a dose of salts this morning at 6 1/2. At 8 my Father, Mother and I went to see an Exposition des produits de l'Industrie, at the Louvre. It is a large space in Galleries where tradesmen bring their goods to be publickly looked at; some specimens were beautiful, but I admired chiefly the perfect taste of all the ornaments. We returned to breakfast at 10 and then my Father and I went to the Bibliotheque du Roi where Mr. Van Pratt shewed him his curiosities. We stayed 3 1/2 hours there, and I was quite rendered. I then walked a little with Dr. Wilson, and saw part of the Louvre Gallerie. Lord and Lady Lansdowne, and the McDonalds dined with us. Dr. Wilson dined and breakfasted with
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some friends of his. We went to the Theatre Francais and saw La coquette corrigle and la junesse de Henry IV. Mlle Mars acted in both. We were in Sir Cha Stuarts box.

Wednesday Sep 22. I wrote a letter to Sarah, and at 12 I walked with Dr. Wilson and a Mr. Hall, a friend of his, to the jardin des Plantes at the end of the Town. There are kept there some wild beasts, and there is a good Botanical and Anatomical collection which we could not see. We went to Notre Dame on the way. The ArchEpiscopal church of Paris, and from the top we had a perfect view of Paris, and tho' the height was only 204 feet I saw beyond the houses of the town all round, which shews how different this capital is from London. We went thro' the Picture Gallery in the Louvre, but had not half time enough to see them properly. The length of the building is quite astonishing. We dined alone and went to the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, which is given up to acting little whimsical farces. There were 3 tonight; the first was in honour of the Duchess de Berry who was confined last night with a female child; and was damned. Potur acted in the last.

Thursday Sep 23. I went out after breakfast shopping with my Mother till 12. At 2 I went out with Dr. Wilson and Mr. Smith, a friend of his, to the Pantheon and the Jardin de Luxembourg. The Pantheon was a church converted by Bonaparte into a sort of temple of Mars. I liked it very much. We did not see the Monuments which are below ground. There is a gallery in the Jardin de Luxembourg filled with modern pictures, but none very good. At 5 1/2 we four went to dine at Verys cafe in the Palais Royal with Lord and Lady Lansdown, and after that we went to the Theatre de Variete, where they act little farces, as at the Porte St. Martin. Brunet is the chief actor here, but I did not think him very good, and the stile of piece is very poor.

Friday Sep 24. I went out first alone after breakfast, and then at 12 1/2 went in the carriage with my Father and Chilon with whom we saw L'Hotel Dieu, an hospital for the sick. At 5 Mr. and Mrs. Chilver dined with us; we weent no where out in the evening, but I sat in my room for some time. McDonald came to take leave. We had a large packet of letters today. My Father has a bad cold in his head, and went early to bed.

Saturday Sep 25. We left Paris. The doctor and I in a new caleche, much more comfortable than before. We arrived at Fontainebleau about 3; there we saw the old palace of the French Kings. It is vast and magnificent, and used formerly to lodge 5000 people when the court was there. Bonaparte furnished it most splendidly. He lived there a great deal, and we saw the table where he signed his abdication. But Louis XVIII goes there very little. The town looks almost deserted of inhabitants, for that reason. We were very well lodged here; for France. My Mother was very tired with looking over the palaces,

(106) Fontainebleau Sep 26 – Oct 2 1819 Secheron near Geneva

and went to bed early. The country we passed today was very fertile and good looking.

Sunday Sep 26. We started from Fontainebleau and went through part of the forest which we passed through also yesterday. It extends a great way round the town, and contains beautiful scenery in the way of woodlands. My Father remembers seeing Louis XVI hunt here. We went on to Auxerre, where we found a dirty Inn, the worst we have yet met with; but we managed as well as we could with it; and made up our minds to worse than this hereafter. Cavani hurt his foot in a roll which he had with his horse over an old woman. It rained a good deal yesterday and today too.

Monday Sep 27. We went on to a village called Maison Neuve, and found an Inn which was clean, but where we had to dine in my Mothers bed room. She however bears these inconveniences remarkably well, and that is all that signifies. I was unwell all day with a cold which I caught yesterday, so I took some Jamess powders tonight. Drewes cooking was brought into use today for the first time, and very opportunely.

Tuesday Sep 28. It was beautiful weather today, and we went on to Dijon through the prettiest country we have yet seen in France. It was very hilly, but the hills were all cultivated, and there was plenty of wood, and vines in abundance. Today we saw the first of the vintage which was going on where we passed. It is a beautiful sight, quite unequalled in liveliness by any rural employment in England, except perhaps hop gathering. We reached Dijon at 3, and went out to see the Lions. There are two handsome churches, one of them a cathedral, a museum containing pictures and statues and a botanical garden; none of them very striking in their way. It is a fine town, but it gives one the notion of its falling to decay, as all the other country towns in France that we have passed through. We had a good Inn here, near the triumphal arch, to the Comte d'Artois. In the evening we had some whist.

Wednesday Sep 29. We went from Dijon to Poligny, a town at the foot of Mount Jura. The road was flat, but the country looked well enough. Poligny is at the foot of a steep rocky mountain and has capital water, but a poor Inn on the whole. We had a rubber at whist here.

Thursday Sep 30. The weather was beautiful today. We began ascending Mount Jura, and most beautiful was the scenery, all day. We continued ascending till within about 6 miles from Morez, and then we descended into that town, which lies along a deep valley between two very high mountains. The air feels very damp here on that account; for the sun does not shine upon the town near so long as it would otherwise do. The scenery as we descended into Morez was the finest we saw today, and improved as it was by the evening
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rays, was the prettiest thing I ever saw. The valley through which we ascended out of Poligny was also very pretty. Dr. Wilson and I walked through both these places, and enjoyed the view the more for that. My Mother too by a mistake of the postillions was obliged to walk two miles in the evening and was dreadfully tired. But a very clean and nice Inn which we found set her up again. The look of the Inhabitants of every thing belonging to them was quite changed today, and was much more Swiss than French, tho' it is in fact in Franche Conte.

Friday Oct 1. Today we began by ascending out of the valley where Morez lies. We left that town with a most favourable impression of it, for every reason. It seems to be much more flourishing than any town we have yet passed through. We went on through Les Roupes and La Fatte where we stopped to lunch for 1 1/2 hours as there were no horses at first. About a mile from that place we reached the highest point of the road on Mount Jura, and from thence all at once, Mont Blanc with the chain of the Alps near it, and the lake of Geneva opened to our view. With all ones expectations, however high they were of this view, the reality far surpasses them. The grandeur of the prospect was quite astonishing, particularly as we saw it from such a height as we were on, and in the most beautiful weather. From thence we proceded to Geneva. This place is so full of English that we could not get any room in the town; but by good luck we obtained some poor apartments in the hotel at Secheron. But this was so full that we had not one room a piece, and my Father slept in our salon, and I in a closet. It does not near come up to the accounts one hears of it. We here dined again and went to bed.

Saturday Oct 2. As my Father occupied the salon, Dr. Wilson and I breakfasted in the cafe. My Mother was kept awake by the noise, and was not well this morning; however, we three went to shop at Geneva, after having written letters to England. The Town of Genva is very dirty and ugly; very narrow streets, with houses of 5 or 6 stories

Secheron Oct 3 Oct 9 1819 Domo d'Opola (107)

which we had to climb to the top of, to get to the best and richest even of the shops. Where you can get it, the view of the Alps over the Lake is very fine; but not to be compared to that we had yesterday. The people are thoroughly different from the French. The women are much prettier; the men not near so good looking. Yesterday I saw Ramsay of Jesus Coll. Cantab., who is travelling tutor to Lord Charlemonts sons. He went away today.

Sunday Oct 3. The Doctor and I breakfasted in the cafe. At 11 we went to Geneva in order to go to church, but were too late for morning service, so we rowed from thence to our hotel and back, and then went to evening church at 2. The service was much like the Scotch, and seemed very sensible. We went into one of the gayest cafes in Geneva, and found a set of horribly blackguard looking fellows playing at cards and smoking in publick, which is enough to contradict ones notion of Geneva being so religious a place as I have been told. In church, there were hardly 20 people. I saw Wm. Russell today, who is here with his Father. I spent a long time today at the bottom of the Secheron garden which overlooks the Lake, and is the only pleasant thing about the Inn as we have seen it; but I should not quite condemn it from this trial; for we have probably the very worst apartments. My Father has had a bad cold lately, but is better tonight.

Sunday Oct 4. Today to my Mothers great pleasure we left Secheron where we have certainly been very ill lodged; we were obliged to go with a Voiturier as there are no post horses regularly kept on the road. It rained very hard almost all day, so we saw very little of the view on the road, which would be beautiful in fine weather. We baited at Rolle and came to dinner at Lausagne, in a very comfortable Inn. I was very unwell today, and took some chalomel at night.

Tuesday Oct 5. I hardly went out at all till 3, for it rained, and I was not well besides. Then Dr. Verdeil a friend of Dr. Wilsons, took my Father and us two, to see a library belonging to a college which there is here (not very interesting). Dr. Verdeil dined with us at the Inn.

Wednesday Oct 6. We started again with a voiturier, and baited at Vevay, which stands in a very pretty situation on the Lake. The Doctor and I went to the top of the church steeple. Lord Somerville died here the day before yesterday. We went on to Bex with beautiful weather, and thro' very pretty country. The Inn here was very good.

Thursday Oct 7. We went post today to Sion. We had to wait a long time at Martigny for horses, and then Dr. Wilson and I walked up the valley of Martigny where, last year, there was a terrible inundation from the melting of a glaciere. It happened in July, in consequence of some hot winds in the mountains.
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The water ran nine leagues down the valley, carrying everything away with it. It destroyed a vast number of houses, and above a 100 people, and has left its course marked by heaps of immense rocks which it brought down with it. The whole place has the most desolate appearance. The inhabitants of this valley are a very poor race of beings. There are an astonishing number of idiots among the children, and the women particularly have a great many quartres. The cause of it, I believe, is the stagnation of the air under the mountains. We got into Sion very late, and found the Inn not very good.

Friday Oct 8. We went through the Upper Vallee today to Brigg. The people are very much improved here, and talk German. Dr. Wilson and I walked about 7 miles in the course of the day. Brigge is a nice town enough, just under the mountain of the Simplon, and entirely supported by that road. We had a tolerable Inn, but very noisy.

Saturday Oct 9. At 6 1/2 we started to cross the Simplon. After we had gone a little way up, Dr. Wilson and I got out to walk, and we went on to one of the refuges where the horses were baited. I then walked on to the town of Simplon, which made 6 posts and blistered my feet. It was very late before we reached Domo D'Opola, for we were 13 hours on the road. The road altogether is the finest work I suppose in Europe, and is the noblest monument of Bonaparte. We had a beautiful day, and saw the scenery to great advantage. There was no one coup d'evil to be compared to the first view of the Alps from Mount Jura; but the succession of grand prospects is so contant, that it beats everything else I ever saw. The descent from Simplon is the finest part; where one goes along side a roaring torrent for several miles, with enormous precipices on each side. The road itself is excellent, and is for the most part cut out of solid rocks, and passes through 6 covered galleries, scooped out of the rock. It is so well directed that the inclination

(108) Domo d'Opola Oct 10 Oct 13 1819 Milan

is very gentle in every part, and my Mother was hardly at all alarmed, though she was tired by the length of the journey. At Domo d'Opola we had large empty rooms, beds without curtains, and in short a thorough Italian inn, excepting in that it was pretty clean.

Sunday Oct 10. We started from Domo d'Opola and went on to Arona, a town on the bank of the Lago Maggiore. At Bavina horses were waiting so Dr. Wilson and I took a boat from thence and went by water to Arona. Bavina is one of the first places we reached near the Lake. We landed in the two islands, on the way (Isola Madre and Isola Bella). They both belong to the Conte di Boromeo, one of the greatest noblemen in Italy. The former is chiefly given up to a kitchen garden for him, and is inhabited by a gardener alone. Isola Bella has a small town, and a country house of Boromeo, which we saw. It is a beautiful thing, and has some gardens in the Italian stile with a succession of formal terraces. There are several pictures. We arrived at Arona just at the same time as the carriages. Our boatmen sung and talked a great deal, and were very well informed as cicerones. This lake I like better than Geneva in general. The latter is prettier near the head of it towards Vevay. The Inn at Arona was pretty good; but we had to dine in my Fathers bed room.

Monday Oct 11. I went before breakfast to a colossal statue of San Carlo Boromeo near the town. We travelled through a very flat country to Milan, but a very fertile one. The road was made by Bonaparte from the Simplon to Milan at the same time and is very good. We had to pass the Ticino in a ferry. We reached Milan at about 4, and came to the Albergo della Gran Bretagne. Soon after we had come, my uncle Lucan who has been here for 6 weeks came to us. He seems rather older, but otherwise just as of old. He has been laid up with a bad leg and is not yet recovered. Dr. Wilson and I at 8 went to the Opera della Scala, which is the largest Theatre in Europe, as they say. It is much larger than any I ever was in, but as there are no lights except on the stage, it does not look so well as it ought to do. We saw the opera called Rappresaglia, and a ballet called Fi Titain. The musick was excellent; though there were very few capital singers; and the scenes and spectacle altogether were admirable. In the dancing they are inferior to us, and very much so to the French. The Ballet is in fact a Pantomime, and does not profess to be an exhibition of dancing. We returned at 11 1/2 before the end of the opera. It was so full that we could not get seats till at last.

Tuesday Oct 12. I walked out with Dr. Wilson for an hour about the town, which I prefer to Paris in many respects. There are many more fine streets, and apparently better shops, and a great many fine churches. But the Duomo or cathedral is quite unique in its way. I went twice into it; once with Dr. Wilson, and once with my Mother. It does not excell in architecture, for it is an

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incongruous mixture of every stile; but its magnificence consists in its materials. The whole is built of beautiful white marble, ornamented in every part in the most laborious manner. They say that there are about it, of one size or another, more than 10,000 statues. It has beautiful and rich painted glass in profusion; and is one of the few churches which have preserved it all through the revolution. Inside it has one fine large Aisle, and 4 small ones; the chief fault there is its darkness, which prevents one from seeing the carved work properly. It is not near finished yet; they are going on working at it slowly. Dr. Wilson and I went again to La Scala. I enjoyed more tonight, for we had good seats, and I made out the story of the Ballet better. It is in fact a very well worked allegory in Pantomime. We came away at 10 1/2, and had some ices on the way home.

Wednesday Oct 13. After breakfast I went out with my Father in the Voiture de Remise. We saw the top of the Duomo, which I find is much the finest part of it. The whole is covered with white marble. One has a full view here of all its pinnacles and minerets which are quite astonishing. There is a fine prospect over the plain of Lombardy which is perfectly flat and very fertile; and it is the only place where one can have a view of Milan. From thence you see it as on a map. We went also to the Academy

Milan Oct 14 Oct 17 1819 (109)

of Arts called the Brera, where there are very fine rooms full of ancient pictures, and several rooms given up to different productions of modern artists. There are prizes distributed in painting, sculpture etc. Lord William Russell and Colonel Browne, the English charge d'Affaires here dined with us. My uncle came in the evening, and with him we had a rubber at whist.

Thursday Oct 14. I first went to see the publick hospital with Dr. Wilson, and a physician which he has become acquainted. It is much better than that at Paris, and is delightfully clean. When I had returned, Ramsay who is here with Lord Charlemont, and Lord Caulfield, the eldest son came to me. I went with them to the Brera again, and after that met my Father at the Ambrosian Library. Angelo Majo the librarian was with him, and the Abbe Salvi. The library is very rich in MSS, but not very much so, in old printed books. Salvi afterwards volontered as Cicerone, and shewed us the arena built by Bonaparte, and a triumphal arch which he intended to have had erected to himself, or rather the ornaments which were to have been put upon it. They are most beautiful, but as they relate to his triumphs will never be put up. As we returned we took a look at several more publick buildings on the outside. I think Milan a much finer town than Paris, as far as it goes, excepting the Louvre and Thuilleries, for there are a great many fine streets and churches, and a great number of noble publick buildings. My Father, Dr. Wilson and I went to the Scala in a private box, and saw there Wm. Russell and Lord Kinn*****.

Friday Oct 15. Dr. Wilson and I went at 10 to his friend the Professor Marengo whom we went with yesterday to the hospital, and we went to see the Mint with him. The machines for it were ingenious, but not so good as our own at London, but the execution I think much better. After that I went to the Brera to meet my Father, right glad to get clear of the Professor. We there saw one of the two libraries which belong to the building, and a collection of ancient and modern coins, which was very numerous as I thought, having never seen any before, but there are better collections at London and Paris. My Mother came to us there; we left my Father with Salvi to look at the other library, and she and I drove round to the arena, which she was very much pleased with, and then came home. I afterwards called on Ramsay, and walked about a little with him and Lord Caulfield. The Abbate Salvi dined with us and was very amusing in some stories about the Catholick processions. The Doctor and I went to the Theatro della Marionette, which was very amusing; a sort of Burlesche play was acted by little figures about 4 feet high, which were managed very well by wires from above. We had a box, into which Ramsay and Lord Caulfield came. I returned home about 9 as the performance only lasted two hours, and found Dr. Ciceri and Colonel Browne with my Mother. Dr. Ciceri is an Italian physician, a great friend of my uncles, and has attended him for his leg.
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Saturday Oct 16. I went at 11 to the Duomo and heard Masse performed. I expected to hear the organ but was disappointed. I went with Dr. Wilson afterwards, to see the chapel of San Carlo Boromeo, under the floor of the Duomo. It is covered with reliefs in silver, and is wastefully splendid. We also saw the Ducal Palace, which is very beautifully furnished, and very comfortable also. There are some excellent fresco paintings by Appiani, and some most beautiful floors of mosaic. Afterwards I walked with Ramsay, who called on me, for an hour. After dinner I went with Father and Mother to the marionettes. They do not answer for a second time. We found my uncle in our room when we returned.

Sunday Oct 17. At 10 1/2 I went to the Duomo, and got into a little gallery over the choir, from whence I saw the ceremonies for the anniversary of the consecration of the church. There was a procession all round the building, with incense burning, and with the priests singing anthems all the time, and a quantity of other mummery, the sight of which might well have driven Calvin to the extremities which he went to in the contrary way. The whole service is always in Latin, so that the people may not reap over the smallest benefit from it. It rained without interruption the whole of today, so I did not move out again, tho' I am rather onked at home, as I have had a sore eye for 5 or 6 days, and cannot read much. Dr. Cieri dined with us, and my uncle as usual came in the evening. This day completes the 2nd. year of my journal. How quick are they flown! Those 2 years which are supposed to be the happiest in life. I think any time of life is happy if one knows the secret of making it so. I have not learnt it yet, and have had a great deal of unhappiness since going to college. But for what? Nothing but my own imagination and weaknesses; for everything which generally gives happiness I have enjoyed. I have made several friends, been successful enough in my college studies, and have never wanted anything. But I have a morbid constitution which makes me raise phantoms of unhappiness where there is none, and clouds the fairest scenes with a veil of melancholy. This must be conquered, some how or other; or I shall be a creature useless to others, and tormenting to myself.

(110) Milano Oct 18 Oct 27 1819 Parma.

Monday Oct 18. I remained at home till 12 with my Mother, my Uncle and Mr. Salvi, who paid her a proper long visit. Then Dr. Wilson and I went to a place called Sinonetta about a mile from Milan, where there is an extraordinary echo between two walls belonging to an old dilapidated country house. They fired a pistol there, and I can answer to having heard more than 60 distinct reports from it in a quarter of a minute. We went into the arena and Ambrosian library again. After dinner Lord Kin***aird called; when he was gone we had a rubber with Uncle, whose spirits are most glorious and enviable.

Tuesday Oct 19. It rained a good deal today. Salvi called again on my Mother. I went out with my Father in the carriage to my Uncles, to Mr. Reynas (the book collectors), where we saw the wretched stile in which a rich Italian gentleman can live without furniture or fires, dirty and cold. We went to see a pretty church outside the walls, and a military academy established by Bopearnais, and very pleasing and well conetitected. Col. Brown dined with us, and in the evening came my Uncle to whist.

Wednesday Oct 20. I took calomel last night, and a dose this morning for my eye, which still continues very troublesome, and will be so I fear for some time to come. At 12 1/2 Ramsay called, and with him and Dr. Wilson I walked to see the famous old fresco painting of the last supper by Leonardo da Vinci. It is very much damaged, but still has a great deal of beauty and strength of expression. Ramsay and Lord Charlemont go tomorrow towards Venice. The Dr. and I were sent after by William who found us near home, to my Mother, who was taken with a sudden chill out of doors; she was put into bed directly, and this evening is doing well, but has some fever. My Uncle came in the evening to whist.

Thursday Oct 21. My Mother is better and got up at 11, and looked as usual. I was indoors all day under the operation of putting on 2 leeches to my temple for my eye. This is always the most tedious operation. It has relieved my eye tho' a good deal. After dinner my Uncle came as usual, and Dr. Ciceri.

Friday Oct 22. My eye is a little better; but I had two more leeches today. At 2 1/2 they were off. I went out in the carriage with my Father a little, and saw the Villa Bonaparte, which is a very handsome and comfortable palace. My Mother seems quite well again today. After dinner Dr. Ciceri and Madame de Castiglione called. The Dr. and I went to the Theatro Re., but the Gallery where we stood as there were no seats to be had was so stinking and hot that I soon decamped; he remained for a chance of a seat. My Uncle did not come tonight.

Saturday Oct 23. My Father went out very early with General Bubnas, the Austrian commander here to a chasse which he is to give him about 20 miles from Milan. So I breakfasted with my Mother
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and Dr. Wilson. At 10, the latter went out to see my Uncle, and I sat 1/2 an hour with my Mother in a conversation on her part, to be further remembered by me! Afterwards I wrote to Gin at Naples, and then went out with my Mother in the carriage for a drive on the Corso. After that I walked about alone in the Town. My Father dined with General Bubnas, and did not come in till 11. We just saw him at 8, on his return from his chasse, not having fired off his gun. My Uncle and Dr. Ciceri came in the Evening and made us merry. The latter is an extraordinary character. He has lived some time in England formerly, and is in love with everything belonging to it, and speaks of little else. He seems so warm and sincere in all he says that I have a great esteem for him.

Sunday Oct 24. At 9 o'clock, left Milan for Placentia, which we reached about 3 1/2. It rained almost all day, or rather drizzled. We passed through a very fertile but an ugly country. We went by Lodi where Bonaparte gained one of his great battles, and just before Placentia we crossed a bridge of boats over the Po. I walked about this town with the Dr. before dinner. It is a very handsome place, but it is in decay apparently. The Duomo here has some fine pictures in it by Guercino, but we had hardly light to see them. And there is the shell of an immense Palace of the Farnese family. We were tolerably well off in the Albergo di San Marco, and drank Bobs health for his birthday after dinner.

Monday Oct 25. Between this place and Parma there is a ferry over the Taroto pass; this was so swollen by the rain that we were obliged to stop here today and let it subside. So we had to amuse ourselves as well as we could with the lions of the place. There are two or three handsome churches, particularly La Madonna di Compania with frecos by Pardinone. I finished reading Tapso today and wrote to Fremantle. There are here two fine bronze equestrian statues to Alessandro and Bainestio Farnese. In the evening we played at whist.

Tuesday Oct 26. The rain having ceased yesterday, we set off for Parma at 8 1/2. We passed again thro' flat and ugly country, and crossed the Tara, not so far from Parma. It was a much more awkward ferry than the Ticino, and the water was only just low enough. We reached Parma at 3 1/2, and went lionising as much as the light would allow in a heavy rain. We saw the 4 famous pictures of Corregio, which were certainly very finely coloured, but not so good as many other painters in their designs. There are a great many fresco paintings of his in churches particularly, but they are so high and so ill lighted, that one can hardly see them. We dined at 5 1/2. The Inn is very dirty. Then went to the play.

Wednesday Oct 27. We were stopped here today by the Duchess of Modena who has taken all the horses for herself, so we walked about the town a good deal this morning. There are fine streets and piazzas in it, and a fine summer palace of the Duchess of Parma (Maria Louise) in a large garden which we saw. She has also a large palace in the town, where she now lives. This used to be a
Parma Oct 28 Nov 2 1819 Florence (111)

very gay court in the time of the Farnesi. There is the shell of a magnificent theatre built by Vignola 300 years ago. It has been out of use for a great while, and the theatre where they act is a small one. The Dr. and I went there last night to see the Duchess, Napoleons wife, but she did not show herself. Today we went to see Mad. Bodini with my Father, who bought several books from her, of her husbands printing. There is a good publick library which my Father went a second time to see today. I came home at 12 1/2 and did not go out again. We dined at 5, played at whist, and went to bed at 10.

Thursday Oct 28. At 1/4 to 7 we set off for Bologna. The weather was beautiful. We saw the sunrise as we left Parma, and most brilliant it was. We passed through Modena about midway, and two or three other towns. The country was all extremely well cultivated. Cavani had a grand quarrel with a little English courier at Modena, and had even come to whipping before our arrival. It ended in our having horses enough. At Bologna we found a good Inn, dined, played at whist, and went to bed.

Friday Oct 29. I went out sight seeing all day with my Father in a carriage. Pictures are the chief things to be seen. Churches there are also; but so there are in every town of Italy in profusion. We first saw the Mareschaleli collection which are to be sold. There are among them one beautiful Corregio, and a great many Dutch pictures, some very good. We saw also another collection to sell, the chief glory of which is a newly discovered Correggio. But the gallery of the academy outshone these beyond comparison. There were Guidos, Domenichinos, Guercinos, Curaccios etc., in perfection. These are all Bolognese painters. I myself liked the Guidos best. The Tamuro collection is also to sell. It has a chef d'ouevre of Guercino, and one of Guido, which latter is rather spoilt by cleaning. There are two or three other private collections here. We saw Count Blanchettis, who is rather a dealer in pictures than a collector, and has not much very striking. We dined at 5 1/2. Afterwards Dr. Wilson went out to a party with an acquaintance he has made. I read some Forsyth. Professor Mezzofanti a famous linguist, and the librarian to the University called on us.

Saturday Oct 30. At 9 o'clock Dr. Wilson's friend, a lawyer, took him and me up to a church on a mountain near the town, famous for a picture done as they say by St. Luke! There is a fine arcade to it for 2 1/2 miles, and Pilgrims go by this to adore this nonsense! We had a fine view of the plain of Lombardy from it. We also saw the Campo Santo or publick cemeterry, out of the Town, for bodies are not allowed to be buried in the Town. This is an immense place enclosed by arcades, and will increase I suppose for ever as people must die. We went again to the academy the Dr. and I, and saw the Pictures, and the rest of the Cabinets of the Institute, with my Father. We then walked to and fro till dinner. After dinner we
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went with his friend to the Opera, a very good sort of representation in a pretty theatre. It rained almost all day, but is now very fine.

Wednesday Oct 31. We set off at 8 for a place called Covigliajo on the top of the Apennines between Bologna and Florence. It was fortunately a beautiful day, for we were all the time ascending the mountain, and a storm of wind and rain is sometimes very troublesome there. Yesterday even, a carriage was overturned by a tourmente on the road. The scenery was fine, but nothing in comparison with the Alps. We came in to the Inn about 5. It is a single house, and has very bad accommodation. We were very lucky in finding room, for Cavani only just got in before another carriage, and secured our interest. As it was, the Dr. and I slept in one room. The house was chuck full of other English. We were tolerably off for dinner; only too much stink of the stables in the room.

Monday Nov 1. Started at 8 to descend the Apennines in to Florence, where we arrived at 4. It rained all the morning nearly and we could see nothing, but in the afternoon it cleared up and we saw the beautiful rich country in the neighbourhood of Florence; almost covered with olives, and interspersed quite thickly with country houses. It is All Saints day, so the people are all dressed out, and the bells ringing, which added great gaiety to the scene. We could not get room at the Quatre Nations so we went to Sneideroffs, where we just found apartments enough. The Town is very full of English. It is very much like what I expected in general appearance; the view from the Ponte della Trinita which we passed is the gayest I know. At 6 we dined; afterwards my Father, the Dr. and I took a little walk by moonlight thro' the town. In the evening old Ocheda came to see us. He has lived in Florence since leaving us last year. He looks much better, and was delighted at seeing us. He sat for a long time talking with all his old gesticulations, chiefly about books of course.

Tuesday Nov 2. Last night I was dreadfully bit by the mosquitos, which I had not at all expected, and had therefore tucked up my mosquito net; the rest of us were just in the same plight. Before breakfast I walked for an hour about the town gazing. Ocheda came to breakfast, and had a basin of mutton broth! After breakfast he insisted upon going to show about the Doctor and me. However, he shewed us nothing but his own library at the Socanda della Fontana. He has set it up there, in a little room of his, and seems quite happy in the middle of it. He again walked out with us, but we got rid of him at about 12, and we then walked about alone till 2 1/2. I then came home till dinner. The Duomo is magnificent, particularly on the outside. It is covered with tesserated black and white marble, which looks rather flimsy at a distance, when you do not distinguish the materials. Milan one is certainly much better. There is a most beautiful tower belonging to this church but detached from

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it; cased with red, white and black marble most elegantly, and minutely inlaid. The Baptistery is near this with its admirable bronze gates. We went to the church of St. Lorenzo, in which is the burying place of the Medicis. Their chapel is most splendidly furnished inside with precious marbles. There are a great many fine statues in bronze and marble about the town. I like best the Hercules killing the Cantaur, and the rape of the Sabines by Jean di Bologne, of those I have seen. This was the festa de morte (All Souls day), so the publick galleries were not open. Lady Eleanor Lindsay is here with her family. She came after our dinner, and took me up to go to a conversazione at Mrs. Mostyns in the Hotel D'York. I have not seen her for a long long time, and only for 2 days in my life. I hope to make acquaintance with her now. At Mrs. Mostyns there were about 20 people; Lord William Russell, Mr. Fairfax that I remember at Eton, and a brother of my friend Gambiers, whom I was introduced to. I today had a letter from Gambier to say that he has got his fellowship at Trinity. I am delighted at it. It made me quite merry all the evening.

Wednesday Nov 3. I went out a little before breakfast with the Doctor. At 10 we went to the gallery at the Palazzo Vecchio. This is allowed to be the finest thing in Europe of the kind or nearly so; for the number and immense variety of beautiful things in it. We staid 4 hours in it, which did not give us time even once to walk thro' every part, much less to see it properly. The Venus de Medici stands in one cabinet called the Tribune, with 4 other antique statues, and the choice of the pictures, which quite confuse one by their number. There are 3 long galleries, and 20 rooms out of them. We shall not have time half to see them through before we go away. I saw Long there, who goes as an amateur travelling about. I was quite knocked up with admiring, and after making a call or two came home till dinner. Lady Eleanor and her two daughters dined with us. I went with them to the Opera, which was in a pretty house, and with pretty scenery, but all parts of the performance were bad. We had several people at different times in the box. I walked home at about 12.

Thursday Nov 4. After breakfast the Dr. and I went to the Palazzo Pitti, where there was a collection of pictures a great deal smaller, but more choice than in the Palazzo Vecchio. I admired particularly the 2 Raphaels, Madonna della Scolia, and della Impaimata, which with some others in the Tribune, have quite converted me about Raphael, for his common pictures I do not like. We afterwards at 4 saw Canovas Venus in the Pitti. I am not judge enough of statues to see any great difference between the merits of that and the Medici Venus. We then walked in the Boboli gardens, close to the Palazzo Pitti. They are throughloughly Italian and well suited to the Palace. I like them very much. There are an infinity of statues, some very fine by John of Bologna. We saw afterwards the Gabinetto Phisico, a fine collection in every sort of Natural history, but famous for a
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quantity of waxen anatomical figures, began by Zumbo. Finally we went to the church of Santa Croce and saw the tomb of Affivi, Michel Angelo, Galileo, Arctino etc., the first done by Canova. After dinner Lord Whitworth and the Duchess of Dorset came to us. At 9 1/2 my Father, the Dr. and I went to a ball given every Thursday by Lord Burghersh the ambassador. There were there all the English whom I have mentioned and many more. I did not dance. We returned at 12.

Friday Nov 5. After breakfast the Dr. and I went to the gallery again. I looked at the fine Niobe group which I had not seen before, and two or three other things also new to me. We went then to the churches of San Marco, where is the monument of Duc de la Mirandole, the church della Nanziata where is the famous Madonna del Saces by Andrea del Sarto, I did not admire it so much. We went into the Ricardi palace, with some fine ceilings painted by Luca Giordano. We went also to the top of the cupola of the Duomo, and had a good view of Florence. My Father, the Dr. and I went at 6 to dine with Lord Burghersh. We met Lord Templeton, Lord Wm. Russell, Sir John Burgoyne, Sir John Talbot and Miss Talbot, Lord Francis Cunningham, Mr. Dawkins, Mr. Gambier and Mr. Montgomery. The dinner was good, neither quite English nor foreign in the manner of serving it. We returned at 9 1/2 and found Lady Eleanor with my Mother.

Saturday Nov 6. After breakfast we parted with poor old Ocheda, who was comforting himself with the hopes of seeing us again. I hope he may see me. My Father and Mother he never will. We went to Arezzo. It rained heavily in the afternoon. In the middle of the day my Mother was taken ill. We stopped some time at an inn, and then afterwards I went with Drewe in the 2nd. caleche as the maids were with my Mother, and my Father took my place. We came in late to Arezzo, and are tolerably well lodged, the Dr. and I together.

Sunday Nov 7. My Mother was a good deal better. The ancient name of Arezzo was Arretium. I saw the ruins of an amphitheatre which belonged to it. I travelled again with Drewe till the midday, and then we settled as usual. The day was beautiful. About 1 we passed by the Lake Thrassymere, and with Livy we traced the positions of the great battle there exactly. An old grove of olive trees now covers the ground. The lake was very pretty, particularly on one

Perugia Nov 8 Nov 13 1819 Roma (113)

side, but not equal to Lago Maggiore. We were pestered a great deal by bovi today at all the hills. We got in to Perugia after dark again; lodged as yesterday.

Monday Nov 8. Before breakfast the Dr. and I saw a gallery of frightful old pictures and other maraviglie of Perugia, and then set off, still through mountainous country to Spoleto, through Fuglino. Spoleto stands on a hill in a plain, and we lodged in an inn outside the town ( neat but not gawdy ). My Mother was a great deal better.

Tuesday Nov 9. At 2 posts from hence on the road to Rome is Terni, so the Dr. and I set off alone at 5 from Spoleto and reached the town of Terni at 9. We then set off in another carriage to see the famous cascade of Terni about 5 miles from the town; the last 1 1/2 miles we walked. We saw it straight in front, and it deserves its fame. The scenery all round is beautiful also. While there the weather was very fine, afterwards it rained for the day. We met the other carriages at Terni (town), and went on to Civita Castellana through Narni, partly through the finest scenery I have seen for the Apennines. My Mother was very tired, and we were very badly off for lodging and dinner. The Fourgon broke its pole in the morning. Francois had to procure a new one and did not come in till 11.

Wednesday Nov 10. We started today for Rome, the weather beautiful. We left Soracte looking very fine, notwithstanding Forsyth to the left, and came on to the campania about Rome which is dreadfully dreary and waste looking; and in other times of the year full of Malaria. We first saw Rome 15 miles off, and then again about 4 when St. Peters looked majestic. We reached the Hotel d'Europe at 2 1/2. My Father, the Dr. and I walked to St. Peters and saw it out and inside. It was most glorious; but its size for some reason or other disappoints me as it does all strangers; it improves upon acquaintance I fancy. The deception arises from its perfect proportions they say. We had a long walk through the town; home; dined at 5 and played at whist afterwards. My eye is again beginning to trouble me.

Thursday Nov 11. Got up later than I ought at Rome. Breakfasted at 9, and then walked till 12 1/2 with Dr. Wilson to the Capitoline Hill, the old Forum, and the Colyseum; this last is quite stupendous and quite answered my expectation. I could not yet understand the plan of the staircased seats. The Popes have stuck it all over little chapels. After this walk we returned and went out again with a Lagney de Place to the Capitol. This is not as it was tho' for the ground between the 7 hills is so raised that one can hardly distinguish them. The Tarpean rock is more than 2 thirds covered, I should think. We saw a gallery of statues and busts etc., there with some very fine, and of pictures too. But the Vatican is the chief collection here. We went to the top of
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a tower on the hill, and saw the whole of Rome very well explained to us by the man with us. We returned in heavy rain at 4 1/2. Mr. Chantry is at Rome studying in sculpture, and dined with us today. This evening was employed in having 3 more leeches to my temple for that eye of mine which is worse today. I settled an expedition to Tivoli tomorrow with Chantry.

Friday Nov 12. I got up at 5; and at 6 1/2 I set off for Tivoli with Mr. Chantry, Mr. Moore (an***rion) Mr. Reid, and Mr. Bagshawe, friends of his. We had a very fine day, and saw the fall to great advantage, from the rain which had fallen. It is a prettier and more interesting thing than Terni, but not so grand. Tivoli stands where Tibur used to do, and about it there are many remains, and still more situations of villas which Horace Catullus etc., used to frequent and write about. We did not go through the giro which is usually made by travellers on donkeys to see the cascadelli, and I was sorry for it. Neither did we go to see Adrians Villa between Tibur and Rome, but there would not have been time for that. We returned by 5 in rain which had begun. I dined at home. Lord Fortescue with Lady Mary and Mr. George Fortescue dined with us. In the evening we saw Sir Humphry and Lady Davy and Lord Whitworth etc.

Saturday Nov 13. I started before breakfast for a walk, and saw the Piazza Navona and the Pantheon which Forsyth justly praises; the first part of my walk it was raining hard. It cleared up afterwards till the evening. After breakfast I walked with Gambiers brother, whom I saw at Florence, to the Vatican and St. Peters. We only went through the statues; I saw the famous Apollo and Laocoon among them, which do not in the least disappoint me, tho' so much is said of them, and a great many other beautiful things. I saw the frescos of Raphael that are there; they are very much injured, but are worthy of him. The galleries and rooms are most excellent, and beat the Louvre as a whole I think, and every thing else indeed of the kind. We walked some time in St. Peters and came home. I took another walk out in the streets afterwards till dinner. After dinner the Marquese Canova came to see us. We afterwards played at whist. I like Canovas Perseus very much, not so much the Criugas and his fellow.

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Sunday Nov 14. Before breakfast I walked out alone and only looked into 2 or 3 churches. At 9 1/2 after breakfast Dr. Wilson and I went to the Monte Cavallo, and there saw the Palazzo Rossigliosi. The famous picture there is the Aurora by Guido in fresco, it is very fine. I should like the hours to be lighter. We went then to an English church service in a room in the Piazza Colnna Trajana; a clergy man whom I knew not performed it very well, and preached very fairly. We then went to the Vatican gallery and saw the pictures. There are very few but those are of the first rate. The glory of the collection is Raphaels Transfiguration, Domeinchins St. Jerome dying etc. We also walked through the gallery of statues again, and the Pauline and Sistine chapels. Michell Angelo painted the latter in fresco, the Last day on one side of it is considered equal to the best of Raphael, but strangers are always disappointed , and expecting that, I was well enough satisfied with my degree of admiration of it. We went to hear Vespers sung at St. Peters at 4. There is the largest collection of sopranos remaining. I admire St. Peters more and more. The facade I cannot however think well of. Mr. Chantry, Mr. Jackson, and George Fortescue dined with us, and a great many people called in the evening. Peter Elmsley among them was interesting. After the others were gone the Duc de Bracciano remained for 1 1/2 hours boring more than I thought it possible for any body.

Monday Nov 15. I and the Dr. breakfasted at 7 3/4 in order to go out earlier on our walks, and then started on a giro with the Laguey de place. We were some time in the Forum and near it when the rain became so violent that we went into the Gallery of pictures in the Capitol. There are some beautiful things there. We then went to the Doria palace, which is considered to have the finest private collection. It is a very numerous one, with specimens of all kinds. The Ghgi palace we saw; the pictures there I did not much like. We then returned and saw the Collyseum thro' again, also Tituss baths where there are some ancient frescos, very pretty paintings. Maecenas house is included in them. Here was found the Lavcoon. We saw Diocletians baths, St. Peters prison or the mamertine etc., etc., and several churches. In that of St. Pietro in Vinculi is the admirable statue of Moses by Mich. Angelo, in the tomb of Julius II. In the Chiesa di Capucini the St. Michael by Guido; I did not like it so much as some of his. We came home at 4. After dinner Cardinal Gonzalvi came to visit us, and other English. I played at whist with Lord Whitworth and the Duches of Dorset.

Tuesday Nov 16. After breakfast I and the Dr. went with my Mother to Canovas and Thorwarldsons studios. Some of Canovas statues were beautiful; there are several intended for England. Then we walked to divers places; saw some pictures done by Lawrence here; the Farnese and Corsini palaces. One room in the former is all painted in frescos by Caracci and his followers and is beautiful. The
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Corsini has the finest private collection in every way that I have ever seen in Italy. The weather was beautiful, and about 4 1/2 we went up to the top of St. Peters and there saw the sun set. We were in the ball. The view was very fine outside. We looked into the church from the lantern above the dome, and then saw to great advantage how large it is. I enjoyed this view extremely. After dinner Lord Fortescue came. I retired at 9 to write a letter to Sarah. Tomorrow we are off.

Wednesday Nov 17. At 9 this morning we started for Veletri. It is a very short distance and we got in early. It is a nasty town and an uncomfortable Inn. My Father, the Dr. and I strolled about and killed 3 hours before dinner by going into an old old Cardinals palace; and sitting on some timber near the gaol. I think we had our rubber at whist in the evening.

Thursday Nov 18. This morning we had an escort of 5 dragoons against the brigands as far as Rocca di fiume, then the road lay between two canals as far as Terracina and was quite safe. The day was beautiful, and the sea at Terracina looked radiant with glory. It is the first we have seen since Calais. I could not enjoy it for my eye was worse today and very much inflamed. We were two or three hours here before dinner, and were very much amused by a procession of penitents with the Bishop of Terracina and a extravagant sermon preached by a priest from a table before the Inn. The Inn was good, but the master they say corresponds with the brigands. I had a blister put on here. We had our whist. The road was yesterday through the Pontine marshes; today we went for the first half of the day in a wild woodland country.

Friday Nov 19. Today we went a very short journey from Terracina to Mola di Gaieta. This was the worst road of all for brigands and we had escort all the way. Between Fondi and Itri we were in the mountains; the country did seem completely wild. At Mola we had a good Inn looking over the sea. We sat some time in a garden of oranges and eat some off the trees, very sour, and on a terrace for a long time. After dinner we had whist and I had 3 leeches on.

Saturday Nov 20. At 8 we started for Naples as we thought. We had no escort. The road was so rough that it gave my Mother one of her spasms and we were obliged to stop for the day at Capua, 15 miles from Naples. She went to bed very weak indeed. The Inn was very bad but it was habitable; luckily, for we should not have got any farther, at any rate, and extremely noisy. Cavani went off with a note to Gin and came back in the evening. I had 4 leeches on and took Calonul this evening.

Sunday Nov 21. My Father went alone to Naples and came back to dinner at 5 1/2. He saw Gin who was very well. I staid at home all day and the Doctor too. I learning some Horace by heart. My Mother still was very weak, and lay all day in a terrible noise of
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the cathedral bells ringing and the people shouting in the street, and a Smiths shop under her.

Monday Nov 22. My Mother was still very weak and had palpitations; but as the least of two evils , it was determined to risk the travelling to Naples, rather than stay another day at Capua. So we went very gently and got through without renewing my Mothers pain, which was all we feared. I went part of the time with Drewe and part with

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my Father. We arrived at Chiatamone in Naples about 3 1/2 and I saw Dear Gin and Lord George after 2 1/2 years separation. She looks very thin, but much better than I expected; and she is as delightful a creature as ever as far as I could see her today, and from all I hear of her. Lord George looked very well and so did the two children who are very much grown, and talk French capitally, and no English yet. I never was happier than today at coming here and from Capua too. The house we have got is most comfortable. We live in the 2nd. floor, and the Quins in the first floor. I have 2 very nice rooms to myself. My Mother was put to bed very comfortably and only just saw Gin. We dined at 7 for they would not bring the dinner till then, and I sat talking to old Gin till 11.

Tuesday Nov 23. I got up to breakfast, after which I did not go out till about 3. I staid at home with my provoking eye, and sat some of the time with Gin and Lord George. At 3 Dick Bingham came to see me. He is attached to the English minister here, Sir Wm. a Court. He is very tall and gentlemanlike and clear apparently; we walked some time out together, and then I came home till dinner. After dinner we all but the Doctor went to San Carlo, the opera house here. He (the Dr.) staid at home for my Mother. It was a mezza gala there and the house was magnificent, as large as La Scala at Milan, but much more gay, and better in every part of the representation. I had a shade on my eye. Dick and several other people came to the box. My Mother has it every other night. We came home at 10 1/2.

Wednesday Nov 24. I did not move out of the house all day, but had 3 leeches on after breakfast, and the rest of the day sat with Gin, or in her room without her. She sung and played to me very well, and talked a great deal with me. She is very much altered in some things, but all for the better; except in person. She is thin now and looks as if she had suffered from illness, but is very well now and very pretty still. What I saw of her today I was delighted with, and of Lord George too, whom I do not find in the least altered. The two children are the nicest I ever saw. Dick dined with us. After dinner the rest played at whist. I talked with Gin and looked over some drawings with her, and went to bed about 11 1/2. My Mother is better now. In the morning she had another spasm.

Thursday Nov 25. I did not go out except just to look at Vesuvius which has begun to pour down lava more violently than it has for 2 years before they say. I had 2 leeches on after breakfast. I sat a good while again with Gin down stairs. I saw my Mother who is much better today, but not up yet. My Father and the Quins dined out, and went to a ball afterwards, so I dined with the Doctor at home; for I could not go out for my eye.

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Friday Nov 26. I went out half an hour at 10, after having had a lesson in Italian from a Mr. Bordese a Italian master here. After that I had 3 leeches, and did not go out again. The weather is very bad, which makes me regret less not going out. I sat with Gin as usual a good deal. In the evening the Quins went out to a party. I staid and played at Picquet with my Father.

Saturday Nov 27. Mr. Bordese came at 9. I had 3 more leeches, which make 24 which I have had since Oct 21. I did not stir out; sat a little with Gin and with my Mother who was in the Drawing room. She was there also in the evening. The Quins went out, and I played again at Picquet with my Father.

Sunday Nov 28. I had two more leeches on today. The others went to church at Sir Henry Lushingtons. I did not go out, but sat as usual some time with Gin and my Mother. After dinner we sat talking till bed time.

Monday Nov 29. Mr. Bordese came today at 9. My eye was much better and I left off my shade, and went out partly on foot, and in the carriage with my Father and G. Q. He, the Quins and I dined at Sir Wm. a Courts at 5 1/2. We met Prince and Princess Jablonsky the Austrian ambassador, Borell the Dutch ambassador, Lord Whitworth and the Duchess of Dorset, Lord and Lady George Thynne, Captain Green, Colonel Gordon, Mr. Currie, and Dick Bingham. The dinner was intensely long and tedious but good. We came back at 9 about.

Tuesday Nov 30. At 9 Bordese. After breakfast went to Dicks, and then home. At 2 1/2 he came to me and I went out walking with him for 2 hours. Lord Whitworth and his Duchess and he dined with us. I and the Dr. went to San Carlo, and came back about 10 1/4. I have a sore throat beginning, and did not enjoy myself accordingly.

Wednesday Dec 1. Mr. Bordese at 9. After breakfast Quadri the oculist came to see me and condemned me to stay quite at home again for some days with a renewal of my shade also. Accordingly I did not move out, and in the evening after some whist I had a leech on who sucked very badly, making 27 of them all together. I have a bad cold today.

Thursday Dec 2. Mr. Bordese at 9. Did not go out. At 3 I had a guitar master for an hour. This is a new scheme of my Mothers, and a bad one I think it. I had my cold all today. We had whist in the evening.

Friday Dec 3. I only went out in the open carriage with my Mother and Gin round by Capo di Monte, a beautiful drive. Mr. Bordese was here as usual at 9, and I always do things for him in the day. Mr. Matthias dined with us; he did not prove so amusing as one have thought. My Father and the Quins went out in the evening, and I played at Picquet with my Mother. My cold was worse, my eye almost well.

(116) Naples Dec 4 Dec 14 1819

Saturday Dec 4. Mr. Bordese at 10 after breakfast. About 2 I went out in the carriage with my Mother on the Strada nuova towards Pozzuoli, a beautiful road. Before going out I had a conversation with her about travelling alone next year; a ticklish one enough at first, but which ended as I thought satisfactorily. At 3 I had Signor Antonio Amadeo my guitar master, and then sat with Gin till dinner. We had whist afterwards, and I went to bed at 10 well cooked up for my cold.

Sunday Dec 5. My Father and the Quins went to church at the consuls. I staid at home all day. My Mother talked again about my travelling, and yesterdays conversation I find had a good effect in all material points. They wish to return by sea to Marseilles, and I am to be trusted to take myself by land to meet them at Paris. So as to seee more of the Quins as we travel through Italy. I am delighted at that. Dick Bingham dined with us. My Father, Gin, the Dr. and I in my shade went to San Carlo. We saw Sir Thom. Fremantle, the Duke of Leeds etc., in our box.

Monday Dec 6. Mr. Bordese at 10 after breakfast. I went out walking with the Doctor. We went up to the castle of Sant Elmo, from which the view of Naples was beautiful, and that of Ischia and the other islands. My Father was gone to a chasse with the king at Carditello and came home after dinner. He did not shoot well himself, but liked the sport. He and the Quins went out in the evening. I sat with my Mother and Sir Humphry Davy who paid her a long visit.

Tuesday Dec 7. Mr. Bordese at 10. I went with my Father in the carriage to the Studi and saw the bronze collection there, from Herculaneum and Pompeii; the most interesting thing I ever saw. I went out very little besides. Sir Humphry and Lady Davy dined with us, the latter particularly disagreeable. They had whist but I did not play.

Wednesday Dec 8. Mr. Bordese at 10. Raining hard all day, I sat a good while with my Mother and Gin, and went out with my Father in the carriage to two churches to hear some music as it is a festifal today for the conception; but we made a monkey of it for we heard none. My Father and the Quins dined out. After dinner the Doctor and I started for San Carlo, but stopped half way and returned disgusted with the dirt, and then found that there was no opera tonight. I then sat in my room till I went to bed.

Thursday Dec 9. Bordese at 11 very late. I went with my Father to the Studii, saw the pictures and the library; some pictures there are very fine. Then we went with Sir Wm. a Court to a collection of pictures of the Portugese minister that are to be sold. I thought it very good; there are 5 or 6 beautiful pictures. My Mother, the Dr. and I dined alone again today. I then went and met Gin and my Father and at San Carlos. Sir Humphry Lushington we saw and the Duke of Leeds (pretty sober).
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Friday Dec 10. Mr. Bordese at 10. At 1 I went out with G. Quin and called on Lady Lushington. Then came back and went to walk with Gin in the Villa Beale. Mr. Elmsley dined with us. After dinner Lady Davy came. I played at whist with her etc., and then she, Gin the Doctor and I went to a party at Sir Wm. a Courts, where I saw quantities of English of every description. There was no dancing. We came away about 12. Lady Davy was grand in the carriage with eloquence and nonsense.

Saturday Dec 11. Mr. Bordese at 10. At 11 I went with my Mother to the Studi. Lord George and the Dr. met us there; she went away soon and I staid on with them. We returned first, and then walked up to Virgils tomb as they call a place towards Posilipo; the view from it was magnificent. I came home at 4 to have my odious ghitarr master. Dick Bingham dined with us. My Father had been all day at a chasse with the King, and came home about 7 1/2, very well pleased. He had some dinner and then a rubber with us. I staid a good while at the end talking to Gin and my Mother.

Sunday Dec 12. My Father, Gin and I went to church at Sir Henry Lushingtons the consuls. After that I went out with Gin to call on Lady Powerscourt and Lady Fremantle, both at home. I saw with the latter Emma and Guggy Fremantle. I think the eldest very pretty, more so than the 2nd. They do not expect Tom yet, but he will come I hope before our departure. I came home with Gin and afterwards went alone walking on the Portici road, and inflamed a boil on my leg with it, so that it pained me a good deal in the evening, and I had a poltess on when I went to bed. My Father and the Quins dined with the Marquese Circello at 4, and came home at 7 1/2.

Monday Dec 13. Bordese at 10. My boil would not allow me to walk today, so I only went out in the carriage with my Mother up the Strada Nuova. I still remained poltessed day and night. In the evening we had several rubbers at whist.

Tuesday Dec 14. At 9 Antonio Amadeo the guitarr master, then breakfast, and at 10 1/4 Bordese. I staid at home till 3, and went then with Gin up the strada nuova,

Naples Dec 15. Dec 23. 1819 (117)

where we got out and walked for some time. Sir Humphry and Lady Davy, Mr. Elmsley, Sir William Gell, Mr. Gardy and Mr. Matthias dined with us; all but the last most affected people, and I played at whist. < Three lines crossed out >

Wednesday Dec 15. Bordese at 10. A horrible rainy day with a heavy sirocco. I did not go out accordingly, but read hard till past 4, and then idled till dinner. After dinner, my Father, George Quin and I went to San Carlo, then, about 10 to a ball at Stackelbergs the Russian ministers where we found Gin. I did not dance thanks to my boil, but made some new fashionable acquaintances.

Thursday Dec 16. Amadeo at 8 1/2. Bordese at 10. At 11 I started with my Father to go up Vesuvius having heard that Sir Humphry was gone before us. We went half way up the cone nearly, and saw some Lava red hot but not running; it was only like cinders. From Portici we rode on donkeys 4 1/2 miles, and then walked a little way. I was miserable all the time, with a tooth ache, and was feverish by it. We came home just to dinner, and afterwards I finished a letter to Sarah, and went to bed at 9 with Jamess powders.

Friday Dec 17. Better this morning, after a bad night tho'. Bordese at 10. I went out with my Mother to the Campo di Marte where there was a field day; coming back we had a walk. After dinner some whist, then my Father and George Quin went out. I went to bed about 11.

Saturday Dec 18. Bordese at 10. Amadeo at 2 1/2. I went out with Gin in the carriage to the Strada Nuova where we walked down the hill, from a place where we met my Mother walking. After that I hardly went out all day. Lord Whitworth and his Dutchess came to play at whist, but I did not play with them.

Sunday Dec 19. I did not go to church, but my Mother read to me. I went to see Dick Bingham for a long time in his room; he has got another sore in his leg which keeps him at home. It was a nasty day. In the evening Sir H. Davy came for a visit.

Monday Dec 20. Today we heard that Sir Thom. Fremantle died of a spasm last night. It is a shocking thing indeed. Poor Tom Fremantle wont hear of it perhaps till he comes here. We set off at 9 to Pompeii. My Father, G.Q., the Doctor and I. It was a most interesting sight. Every thing that remained appeared as fresh as a modern town, no antiquities can be more genuine than that. There is an amphitheatre in great perfection, and several temples. I was provoked at the lazyness of the government not going on with the work more. We returned about 4. In the evening my Father, the Quins and I went to a concert in the rooms of the Accademia. The
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singing was most excellent. We did not stay for the instrumental part.

Tuesday Dec 21. My birthday. 20 years old. No Bordese today, but Amadeo at 8 1/2. My left eye now is ill and has been for two days. At 11 I went with Gin to the foot of the Strada Nuova in carriage, and then we mounted two ponies. I, one of my Fathers, and rode up to the Margravines and down again to the carriage. After that I walked a little with Lord George, and see Dick Bingham whos leg is very sore. My Father, the Quins, and I dined at Sir Wm. a Courts, and met Lord Whitworth and the Dutchess, Sir Humphry and Lady Davy, Mr. Boreel, and Mr. Hudson. After dinner we returned and had a rubber at home.

Wednesday Dec 22. I went out riding with Gin as yesterday. At 2 Lord George, the Dr. and I went to the late Sir Thom. Fremantles, and accompanied a long procession thro' the town to his burial, which was in a private garden. A great many Neapolitan troops were drawn out for him, and there were three vollies fired. After dinner Sir Henry Lushington came to us, and played at whist.

Thursday Dec 23. Amadeo at 8 1/2. At 11 I went out riding with Gin as usual, but afterwards staid out alone and went to Purgzuoli thro' the grotto of Posilipo, a most beautiful ride. I then came home having called on Dick Bingham, and read till dinner. Nor my Father nor my Mother dined with us; he having gone this morning off to Persano near Pesti** on a royal chasse for 2 or 3 weeks, and she having been unwell this morning and having gone to bed. We 4 remaining, made out the evening very well with Picquette, commerce, Beggar my neighbour, and cosing with Gin over the fire. I began again this morning for some time to be bilious and miserable, but it did not continue.

(118) Naples Dec 24 1819 Jan 1 1820

Friday Dec 24. My Mother did not breakfast with us, being rather unwell; she came out afterwards, but went to bed again very soon. I went on horseback to Capo di monta and back by Ponte Rosso, and on my return met with Graham and Fielding in a carriage, who had come yesterday from the North. I staid at home then till dinner, except a little walk with the Doctor in the Toledo which was crowded by preparations for the eating bout which takes place tonight, being Christmas Eve. We dined as yesterday, and then I played at Picquette etc., till 9 1/2 when I went to Lady a Courts party which was very empty, and in short a monkey. I played a little at billiards with Mr. Hudson.

Saturday Dec 25. Christmas day. The first perhaps I ever spent away from Althorp. I went to church with the Quins at Sir H. Lushingtons. After that I walked about with Dick and then with Graham and Fielding who were looking for lodgings. Dick Bingham dined with us, in the evening we had whist etc.

Sunday Dec 26. Went to church with the Quins. About 3 I went out riding up the Strada Nuova with Dick on my Fathers two horses. It had rained all the morning till then. I dined at Sir Humphry Davys at 6, and met Lady Powerscourt, the 2 Miss Winkfields, Sir Wm. Gell, and Mr. Craven. I was amused with the battles of the worthy couple, our hosts. After dinner some more people came. I went to San Carlo with Dick and the Doctor.

Monday Dec 27. At 11 I rode with Gin on the Strada Nuova. I then was at home till 3, when I took the same ride with Dick again , and met various Englishmen as usual. I came home just to dress. After dinner we all played at commerce. At 10 I went to the Accademia; a ball with hardly a soul I knew. Not one girl I wished to talk to, so I did not dance, but came away at 11.

Tuesday Dec 28. Very rainy all day. Amadeo at 8 1/2. I only went out a little in a carriage with Lord George. Dick dined with us, after dinner whist and commerce.

Wednesday Dec 29. Rainy again today. I tried about 3 to get a ride, but was thoroughly ducked, and came in directly. Gin, I and the Doctor dined together as Lord George dined out. He, Gin and I went after dinner to a small music party at the Duchess of Dorsets, which was rather dullish as they had not very good musicians. I then went on to a ball at Comte Stackelbergs, where all the fashion was assembled as usual. I danced 3 quadrilles with Miss Winkfield and 2 Miss Ardens, and waltzed with the 2nd. Miss Lushington. The first time I ever attempted; I got off as well as I expected. I walked home with Hudson at 12 1/2 after a pleasant evening.

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Thursday Dec 30. Amadeo at 8 1/2. It rained a good deal again today. I went out riding on the Strada Nuova at 2 1/2, and met a collection of riders at the top; Mt. Charles, Carmarthen etc., etc. I did not join them, but Sir Henry Willoughby rode with me, and Lord George whom we met. The road was full of Ladies parties walking also, the Lushingtons etc. After dinner I went with Lord George to San Carlo, where I spent the time in visiting Lady Lushington, Lady Powerscourt, and Lady George Thynne. The Gazza Ladra of Rossini was the opera, and most charming it was

Friday Dec 31. It was the worst day we have yet had, till 6 o'clock. Afterwards it cleared up a little. I only went out on foot paying some visits for 1 hour. Gin was not very well and worried about Winny who is ill, so she could not dine with Sir Humphry Davy where she was going; I went with Lord George in her place, and met Mr. and Lady Ann Wilbraham, Sir Henry Willoughby, and a Mr. Lister. We then went to a ball at Lady a Courts where I staid till 2. I danced 5 quadrilles with Lady Charlotte Osborne, 2 Miss Lushingtons, and 2 Miss Ardens, and waltzed with the 2 Miss Winkfields and Miss Kennedy, which last was a failure for we could not keep time together, and I was disgusted considerably; but the rest was delightful. A set of us drank in the new year in Diavulone. I walked home for the wind had dried the streets.

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Saturday Jan 1. 1820. This day was more rainy even than yesterday. I hardly went out. I only went to the rooms of the accademia with Dick to play at billiards, but the table was occupied and we came away re infecta. Sir H. Lushington and Lord George we found there. At 5 I went to dine with the Dutchess of Marlbro in the Caramanico; and met Graham, Fielding, Carmarthen, Hudson, and Dick Bingham besides their own party, which was Lady Caroline and Lord Henry Churchill, and a Miss ( Cope, I think). After dinner we were to dance in Lord Henrys bedroom which was cleared for the purpose, a piano forte and a fiddle forming the band. There were only quadrilles; I danced with Miss Winkfield, Lady Charlotte Osborne, Lady Caroline Churchill, and Miss Lushington. Here we begin a new year; may it end as prosperously as the last has done.
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Naples Jan 2 Jan 10 1820 (119)

Sunday Jan 2. I went to church at Sir Henry Lushingtons. At 2 I went out riding with Sir Henry as the day was finer. He took me a beautiful ride through a deep grip by way of a pony road round the Calmandoli to Lago Agriano and so home thro' the grotto. I got in at 5. He is a very excellent person I think. I heard that my Uncle was expected directly. Dick dined with us, and about 7 my Uncle did come and sat with us all the evening, and sleeps in the house. He looks just as he did at Milan, but has hurt his leg by the journey. Poor little Winny Quin has got an infantine fever, and Gin is very much worried by it.

Monday Jan 3. At 12 1/2 I went and called on Sir Henry Willoughby with my pony, and with him rode to Pozuoli where we saw the temple of Jupiter Serapis, the Amphitheatre etc., curious enough as ruins. We returned by 5. The day was very fine. We had a good galop coming back. At 5 1/2 I dined at Lady Alvanleys, and met Carmarthen, Hudson, Sir Hy. and Lady Lushington, Mr. Wilbraham and Lady Amis, Colonel Gordon and Mr. Devon. We had a good dinner. At 8 1/2 we went to the Dutchess of Dorsets for a music party, where there were better performers than last time. There was too much instrumental tho'. We met there all the English fashion. At 10 1/2 I went to the Accedemia ball where I danced quadrilles with Miss Maria Lushington, Miss Kate Arden, waltzed with the 2nd. Miss Winkfield and danced in conclusion a quadrille with the same. Willoughby brought me home with Mount Charles.

Tuesday Jan 4. At 12 I walked with Graham and Fielding to the Studi, which we looked all over. After coming back I walked with Dick Bingham a little. My Uncle has not yet got lodgings, but still sleeps in our house. After dinner the Quins and I went to the opera and heard the delightful Gazza Ladra again. I made visits there to Lady Powerscourt and Lady Lushington.

Wednesday Jan 5. According to an agreement last night, I rode with Sir Henry Lushington to Actrone a sort of circular crater filled with trees and underwood where the King shoots sometimes. It is a beautiful spot, and there is an excellent ride round it inside. We returned by another road. While there, we rode thro' some of the thick cover, but only put up one woodcock. He asked me to dine at 6, which I did, and met Hudson, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Jeffreys, a midshipman. I was not very elastic and got rather bored after dinner till 9 1/2. The girls sung to the ghitarr. I like the eldest best; but tonight I like neither myself nor others, with the scirocco I believe.

Thursday Jan 6. I rode to the Post office at 12, and at 2 I again started, and rode round Capo di Monte, Ponte Rosso and the Portici road. It was a beautiful day, and a festa for the Epiphany, so every body was out in their best dress. My Mother was more unwell than usual today, and went to bed again. After dinner she got up for an hour or two. I went to San Carlo and had a place in the
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Pitt. I visited Lady a Court and Mrs. Middleton, and came home with Willoughby, who is an useful personage in that way.

Friday Jan 7. It was one of the worst days in rain I ever saw, till 4. It then stopped pouring and I walked to the Post and back with the Doctor. At 5 I went out with the Quins, to dine with the Dutchess of Dorset and Lord Whitworth; we met Sir Henry and Lady Lushington, Graham, Fielding, Captain Green, Mr. Sharp and Talbot of the Rochfort. We staid for a music party to which the other English came as before. There was no instrumental music, but only singing, the 2 Lushingtons and 2 Winkfields sung; Louisa Lushington, beautifully. We then all proceeded to Lady a Courts party which was very full. I liked it in the end tho' rather disinclined to anything at first. I staid till 1 1/4, a long time after the other company were gone; excepting one whist table. But Dick, Cholmondeley etc., and I staid on talking to Lady a Court who was very agreeable. Mr. Newtson brought me home and Cholmondeley.

Saturday Jan 8. Bordese came again today at 11 1/2. At 2 I walked with the Doctor a little, and then rode on the Strada Nuova. I met Gordon there, and with him rode undisturbed in the heaviest storm of rain, which of course drenched me. I got home to dress comfortably. My Mother did not get up all day. Dick dined with us, and we had some whist till 10, when I went to Princess Jablonskys party, where I saw our usual set, and was very well amused. Lady Powerscourt brought me home as it rained.

Sunday Jan 9. A raw cold day, just like a snow day in England. I went to church with the Doctor. Afterwards I walked about a little with Dick etc. Sir Humphry and Lady Davy dined with us, and Dick. My Mother does not yet. Lady Davy, the Quins and I went to the opera and heard Ercole and Henry IV; a very cold night it was.

Monday Jan 10. At 8 I breakfasted with Sir H. Lushington, and then set off with him in a hackney caleche to Puzzuoli; from whence we went on board the Rochfort intending to sail in her round to the Bay of Naples from that of Baii. She was to have gone; but Cap. Green

(120) Naples Jan 11 Jan 19 1820

came on board too late from Naples, and the wind had changed, so we lost our sail and only staid 2 hours about in her, had luncheon, and then being landed we walked home. The day was very fine. We cut the grotto and went over the hill of Posilipo into the Strada Nuova, where we met Lady Lushington and family, and accompanied them till they got into their carriage again. I found my Father returned from Persansvwery thriving. In the evening we played whist till I was tired. I went out no where, tho' I should have liked the Accademia.

Tuesday Jan 11. I spent the morning in uncertainty whether to go to Pozzuoli or not to sail with the Rochfort. I was up at 6 but went to bed again, and I was again ready to start at 12, but gave it up then finally. I took a short walk to the Post with Lord George, and a ride on the Strada Nuova with Gordon just before dinner. We had no whist this evening, but my Father, Lord George and I went to Mrs. Middletons where was a pleasant party with some music. We came back before 12.

Wednesday Jan 12. Today is King Ferdinands birthday. So a court was held to which I went with my Father and was presented. It was gayer than I expected it would be. It was all over by 12 o'clock, when the king went off to dinner, and we came home and undressed. I went then and saw Lady Powerscourt, then took horse up the Strada Nuova with Sir. H. Lushington whom I met. I never shall have seen enough of that road. The view always has new charms. My Father dined out. I went into the Pitt at S. Carlo with the Dr. It was a full gala for the birthday. I never saw such a gay Coup d'oeuil. The opera was Ercole, the ballet a new one un 'ora. The house was completely crammed.

Thursday Jan 13. About 11 my Father, Geo. Quin, the Dr. and I went on board the Revolutionaire and the Rochfort, in the Bay. He gave us a salute on leaving both. I then walked with Quin to the Post and saw them both under way, one for Malta, tother for Corfu. My Father and Lord George dined out. My Uncle with us as usual. After dinner we had some whist. I retired to my room to read at about 9 1/2.

Friday Jan 14. Today the weather was very fine; so at 12 my Father, the Doctor and I started for Portici. My Father on horseback, I in a carriage with the Dr. We saw first the museum in the Palace there. It was at first instituted to contain all the antiquities found at Herculaneum and Pompeii, but now there remains none but the pictures which are very interesting indeed. We then descended into the Herculaneum amphitheatre which is the only thing excavated there; the other buildings which were discovered they filled again. They only shew you the general plan of this one by candle light. In returning my Father got into the carriage and I rode. At the Ponte Madelena I turned off and went up through the Campo Marzio, and back by the Aversa road. I rode very fast, and
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did myself great good for I was rather bilious in the morning. I dined at 6 with the Lushingtons, and met the margravine of Anspach, Mr. Craven, Prince Buttera, Mr. Douglas, Lady and Miss Douglas, Miss Neeshout, Mr. Cassas, Willoughby, Cap. Hamlot, and Dick Bingham. After dinner the Miss Lushingtons sung, till we all went to Lady a Courts which was very full. I staid till 1, and walked home. The dinner and party were both very pleasant.

Saturday Jan 15. At 1 I started on my pony and rode to Falconets which was shut. Then I went round by Virgils tomb to the top of the Strada Nuova, from whence I came down to the bottom where I met Carmarthen and Hudson, with whom I returned again to the top. My Father went off again today shooting to Mon Dragone, for 3 days. Dick dined with us. The Quins and I went to San Carlo. Lady Powerscourt was in our box. I visited the Lushingtons, Leedss and Lady a Court, and Dutchess of Dorset. I liked the ballet better than I did the first time. Lady Powerscourt brought me home.

Sunday Jan 16. Horrid stormy scirocco. I went to church with the Quins, then staid in till 4, when I walked till 5 with the Doctor. After dinner I staid in the drawing room till 8 1/2 then retired to read some Livy.

Monday Jan 17. It was fine till 2 and then was stormy. I went out first to pay visits. Then at 2 I rode with Lushington, whom I met by Virgils tomb, up and down the Strada Nuova, and escaped all the showers which fell around us. I went with the Quins to dine with Lady Alvanley, and met the Duke and Dutchess of Leeds, and Carmarthen, Hudson, Lady Charlotte Osborne, Graham, Mr. Borell and Dick Bingham. We then most of us proceeded to a concert at the Dutchess of Dorsets which was very good. Festa played and Ambrosio and Rubini sung beautifully. The Prince of Denmark and suite were there. Then rather late I went to the Accademia which was in a larger room and had very good music between dances. I waltzed with Miss Cath. Arden and the 2 Winkfields, and danced quads with Miss Lushington, Miss F. Arden, and Lady Charlotte Osborne. Willoughby brought me home.

Tuesday Jan 18. Another rainy day till late. At 12 the Doctor and I went to the Studi with a Mr. Hibbert and Abbe Campbell, who knew the custodi and introduced us to several rooms I had not seen before; one of which speaks to the improvement of taste in modern times, at least in somethings. At 4, the rain having ceased, I walked 3 miles in the Villa Reale with Long whom I met. Lady Davy dined with us. At 8 1/2 Lord George and I went to the San Carlo into Lady a Courts and Lady Alvanleys boxes, and then into the gambling rooms, to see the goings on there. I then went to a ball in Lady Cobthursts rooms in the Caramanico, which were very small, but we made it out very pleasantly. I danced quadrilles with 2 Miss Winkfields, Miss Lushington, Miss Cath. Arden, and waltzed with Miss Cath. Arden, Miss Louisa Lushington, and the 2
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Miss Kennedy. I never enjoyed a ball more, notwithstanding the squeeze for part of the time.

Wednesday Jan 19. Bordese at 9 1/2. At 1 1/2 Lord George and I rode up to the Studi where we met my Father, and rode with him on the Campo Marzio. On returning I prolonged my ride to Queen Joans palace, and there turned back with Sir H. Lushington. Dined with the Quins at Sir Wm. a Courts, and met Lady Powerscourt, Sir Charles Gordon, Col. and Mrs. Gordon, Lord St. Asaph, Graham Fielding, Lord Wm. Russell, Capn. Arbuthnott and Mr. Lister. We went on to San

Naples Jan 20 Jan 27 1820 (121)

Carlo, where I visited Lady Powerscourt and Lady Charlotte Osborne; I came back and found the room still full at home.

Thursday Jan 20. Another nasty day till 3 o'clock. I staid at home till then, except going shopping with Gin a little. Then I took Willoughbys pony and rode up the Strada Nuova, and down by way of Virgils tomb. Went to dine at Sir H. Lushingtons with the Quins, and met Lady Powerscourt, Col. and Mrs. Gordon, Charles Fremantle and Mr. Devon. I staid there till 10 when Sir Henry took me to Niad Rumsdorf, the Prussian ambassadors party and introduced me there. It was first a childs ball, and then a grown up one. I never saw so crowded and uncomfortable a room as they danced in. I waltzed with Emily and danced with Cath. Winkfield, and then was taken home by Lushington. I was very out of spirits all the evening.

Friday Jan 21. I read till 2 1/2, (Bordese came at 9 1/2), except a walk to Dicks lodgings. In the dumps, which I still retained from last night. At 3 I started alone to ride up the Toledo round by Vomero, to the top of Strada Nuova. From thence I explored a beautiful path to the end of the Promontory of Posilepo, and came down home. Dined at home, played whist till 10, then went to Lady a Courts ball, which was full and miserable at first, but at last was very pleasantI danced quads with Lady Caroline Churchill, Miss Markham, Miss Winkfield and Miss Lushington, and waltzed with Miss Colthurst. Mr. Foley brought me home.

Saturday Jan 22. It was a very fine day. I took a long ride with Sir Henry Lushington. We started at 12, went through Pozzuoli to Baii, which we passed and made a tour round by the Lucrine lake, Lake Fusaro, and lake Averno. These, and particularly the last were beautiful. The country about them is the Phlegroean fields and is almost covered with fragments of ancient buildings. There is a great deal, most interesting in that way, every where that we rode, and the scenery is wild and beautiful. We must have gone 25 or 26 miles today. I dined at home and played at whist. Went out no where in the evening. Dick dined here.

Sunday Jan 23. Went to church with the Quins; after which I only went to make a visit or two, Lady Alvanley, Dutchess of Marlborough etc. It was fine only till about 1, and then began to rain drizzlingly. Lord Guildford and Dick dined with us. I went with the Doctor into the pit of the Fondo. Duport is come and danced there very well. We walked back and sat some time with my Mother.

Monday Jan 24. Bordese at 9 1/2. At 11 1/2 I went out in the carriage with my Father. First to the Studi where we staid some time in the library, then to the Certosa where we saw St. Martins chapel, which is magnificently filled up with marbles and has some fine pictures, among them the chef d'oeuvres of Spagnoletto. We saw in the church of San Severo three famous figures in veils and
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nets through which appear the shapes of the bodies. They are certainly very good in their way. When we returned I took a ride to the end of Strada Nuova and back before dinner. Gin and I went to the opera where we saw nobody but Willoughby. It was very cold all day.

Tuesday Jan 25. It was a beautiful day. At 12 1/2 I went with my Mother to Portici; where we saw the museum again, and the apartments of Murat and his Queen in the Palace, which are very prettily filled up, in the true French stile. We came back by 4 o'clock. My Father dined out; the rest of us and Dick at home. I played at whist a little, and at 11 went with Geo. Quin and Dick to Lady Drummonds ball, which I did not enjoy at all. I came home more miserable than I ever was in that way. Lady Powerscourt carried me.

Wednesday Jan 26. Bordese at 10. At 12 my Father and I went in the carriage to the Vomero about, where the horses met us, and we rode up to the Camaldoli, a beautiful convent on the top of a hill, from which we had a glorious view in every direction. The day was beautiful. We returned by 2. I walked out again after that with Lord George, and saw the procession of a Cardinals burial in the Toledo. At 6 I went to dine with Mr. Kennedy. I met Lady Powerscourt and daughters, Willoughby, Hudson, Col. Scott, and Mr. Corbery. It was pleasanter than I looked for. I went from thence to Stackelbergs ball which I expected to be miserable again, but I resisted a farce of dancing. I danced Quad with Lady Car. Churchill, Miss Winkfield, Miss Kennedy and Lady Charl. Osborne; and waltzed with Louisa Lushington, Miss Arden and Miss Markham. I came home on foot a little before two.

Thursday Jan 27. I took a walk up the Toledo to my tailors from 10 1/2 till 11 1/2. The Doctor was going up Vesuvius with Mr. Hibbert. The day was beautiful and the moon full, so I determined to join them. At 12 1/2 off we set in Mr. Hibberts carriage, with his Laguay de place. We started from Portici on mules about 2 went to the Hermitage, where we dined off some provisions which we brought, and then went on foot to the top of the mountain. The sun set beautifully some time before we reached it, and we went on by moon light. The view was magnificent. We saw the great Crater spouting out stones occasionally, and a smaller one near it sending out clouds of black ashes, but the Guide (Salvadore) said we might go to look into one side of the crater; so up we went and got within the circumference of it when an explosion took place, and some red hot stones fell among us, and we narrowly escaped being hit. So we made a very quick retreat down the cone again. The crater had been altered in form since the day before, and deceived the guides who thought the stones could not fly out towards the side where we were, till we got within it and then we found they could. Five minutes after leaving the cone, a much more violent jutt of stones flew out, which covered the side of the cone, by
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which we had descended, and must have hit us all if we had been there then. After that part of our expedition we went to a place where boiling water came out of the mountain. There was no stream of it, but the ashes where we stood were soaked with it and too hot too touch in some places. It was from there that we saw the discharges of stones which we so happily avoided. After this we began to descend to the mouth in the side of the mountain where the lava came out. It was flowing about six miles an hour, from under a crust which it had formed to itself, and on which we stood and saw it running underneath us, through cracks. This sight was most astonishing; it was like a deep stream of melted glass, rolling majestically on between banks which had raised themselves near it. At its first source they said it was ten feet deep, and then spread into three shallow streams, and rolled on till it became hardened and looked like an immense red hot coal furnace. We returned by the same road that I had gone with my Father (Dec 16), and reached Portici at about 9 1/4. We found that Mr. Hibberts laguay and coachman had been quarrelling, and that the latter had stabbed the other with a knife, so we took the poor man in the carriage home. What a set of rascals these fellows are! It was a dangerous wound I fancy.

(122) Naples Jan 28 Feb 5 1820

Friday Jan 28. By special favour my Father obtained leave for me to come and see a royal chasse. So today I started with William in the caleche for Carditello, a place where there is a small palace of the King, surrounded with a large chasse. We went to it through Aversa, and got there before my Father who came with Sir Wm. a Court. We had a second breakfast with the King, and then rode to take our posts in the wood that was to be beat. I stood in my Fathers enclosure of wicker work, and saw a very lively days sport, chiefly at wild boars. I stole a shot now and then but killed nothing. We staid out about 3 hours, and rode home again to dress for dinner, which we did all in the same room. Our party was the Prince of Denmark, Jablonowsky, and 4 more Neapolitan courtiers, all whose names I could not learn. After dinner I started back as I came, and arrived at Naples at 7 1/4. I am very glad I have seen this days shooting, not only for its own sake, but to see the King and his court well, to which nothing can ever be similar. I had a little whist at home, and then went to Lady a Courts party, where I staid till 12, and returned with my Father from it . I saw all the usual faces, and liked it very well.

Saturday Jan 29. A tolerably fine day. Our letters came to us again today, and brought news that Sir Graham More is appointed admiral here, and the Rochfort is to go and fetch him. Lady Fremantle will probably return in her. Tom is not to come out to them now. I went out on horseback at 2, met Mr. Currie and rode with him to the Grotto del Cane near Lago Agnano, and to the Solfatara; the former is a little cavern with mephitick air in it, which suffocates a dog or any other creature when put in it. The experiment is always tried with an unlucky cur who is half killed and then recovered again. The Solfatara is the place of an ancient crater of a volcano, now filled up, but breathing sulfur still. I dined at 6 with Mr. and Lady Ann Wilbraham, and met Lady Alvanly and 2 Miss Ardens and Barrington. Lady Alvanly took me to San Carlo where we saw a new ballet, and then to Princess Yablonowskys ball which I liked very well. I waltzed with Miss Arden, Miss Louisa Lushington, and Miss Colthurst, and danced with Miss Kate Arden, Emily Winkfield. Folay brought me home with Hudson at 1 3/4.

Sunday Jan 30. It poured with rain all the morning, so I did not go to church. At 2 it was fine and I took a ride towards Capo di Monte with my Father; having first gone in the carriage as far as the pavement lasted. Coming back our carriage was caught in the line of the corzo which there is Sundays and Thursdays through the carnival. We were an immense time coming down the Toledo and I saw several carriages full of masqued figures pelting sugar plums. I thought it flat and dull enough. After dinner Lord Guildford and Dick came. When the former was gone we played some rubbers at whist, it being abroad and not in England.

Monday Jan 31. Bordese at 10. I went a walk with Barrington down
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the Villa and back, and then at 2 my Father being set off riding without me, I walked with the Doctor up to the Certona and saw the chapel of St. Martino again. The day was very fine, and the view glorious. Lord Whitworth, the Dutchess of Dorset, Mr. and Mrs. Newenham, Mr. Gordon, Mr. Bailey ( a great traveller ), and Dick dined with us. I went to the Accademia at 10 and danced quads with Lady Charlotte Osborne, Lady Car. Churchill, Miss Winkfield and Miss Cath. Arden, and waltzed with Emily Winkfield, and 2nd. Miss Kennedy. The Dutchess of Marlborough brought me home. This day 10 weeks we came to Naples, and this day 20 weeks left London.

Tuesday Feb 1. My Uncle went away this morning to go to Rome. I am very sorry for it. He has been very kind to me here. I staid reading till 2, and then rode with Lord George through the grotto and a circleit on the other side. On coming back we went and played a game or two at billiards at the Accademia. After dinner we looked at some drawings of Mr. Bailies, and played at whist.

Wednesday Feb 2. From 1 1/2 o'clock till dinner time almost, I was pestered about settling our quadrille masquerade dress, and being measured for it at San Carlos tailors shop. I wish it was all over. After dinner my Father, Lord George, the Dr. and I went to the opera. I visited Lady Lushington there.

Thursady Feb 3. I made a party today to go to Pompeii with Barrington, Long, Pennant and Devon. So at 9 I went to breakfast in Barringtons lodgings, and at 1/2 past we started in 2 carriages. We got there in 2 1/2 hours, took a guide and walked all over the part of the town which they shew, and the amphitheatre. I was more interested with it this time than the last. One thing was that the day was beautiful. We lunched in our carriages just before returning at 2 o'clock. I came home and dressed, and at 6 went with Lord George and my Father to dine at Jablonowskys, and met Lord Whitworth, and the Dutchess of Dorset, Duc and La Duchesse de Sangro, and L'Impleton Gen. Upton, Dutchess of Marlborough, and Lady Car. Churchill, Sir Wm. and Lady a Court, Lord Guildford, Prince Esterhazy, and Mr. Menty, and Princess Lichtenstein and Prince Butera. Afterwards we went to a music party at the Dutchess of Dorsets, with Fata to fiddle and Mlle. Catalous to sing. Some of her performance I liked extremely. I then went with Lord George in mask and Domino to the Fiesta di Ballo at San Carlo. Which in that way is very good fun. We staid till about 1.

Friday Feb 4. I got up and went with Lord George to breakfast with Sir H. Lushington at 8. At 9 we set off on horseback for Castellamare. We were about 3 hours on the road. The object was for Lushington to look at a house he wants to have in the summer there, so we put up our horses in a miserable stall, and took a walk to the house, and made a giro on the hill over the town, from whence the views were charming, and the day very fine. The town itself is detestable, but nothing would be more pleasant in summer
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than the houses above it. We came back at 6 1/4 and dined with Sir H. Lushington quite en famille. After dinner we 3 had a rubber at whist with Maria Lushington. I enjoyed the party there very much. At about 10 I came home and sat a little with my Mother and Gin till they went to bed, and then with the Doctor a little. My Father is gone to Capua tonight to shoot at Calvi tomorrow.

Saturday Feb 5. After breakfast I received a message from the Dutchess of Marlborough to go up Vesuvius with her and a party. The day was very fine, so off we went at 12 o'clock. The Dutchess, Lady Caroline and Prince Butera were in one carriage; I and Dick Bingham in another. Lord and Lady George Thynne in a 3rd., and Sir Henry, Lady and Miss Lushington in another. We had Salvatore as guide again, and we started from Resina with an enormous concourse of other people who were to be useful in carrying ladies, provisions, about 70. We went the same road as the other day up to the Hermitage, where we stopped and had a good large luncheon, and rode on to the bottom of the cone. There we dismounted. The Dutchess of Marlborough and Lady George Thynne went in Portantine, carried

Naples Feb 6 Feb 10 1820 (123)

on the shoulders of four men, and Lady Caroline did for some little way. The rest walked. We went first to the region of hot water, which lies between Somna and Vesuvius. The sun set about that time, and the scene was very fine, with the thick steam rising all round us out of the ground, which was extremely hot. This part was much finer than last time. We ascended the cone, and some of us walked round a great part of the crater, which has sunk 200 feet they say, and is a great day larger than when I was here before. It sent out constantly very thick smoke, and we heard grumbling and stones falling on the edge of it inside, but none came out. We then, at least some of us, went to the mouth of the little crater. From thence we all rendezvousd at the mouth of the Lava which was running very well, but not so finely as last time quite. From thence we went off for the donkeys, and staid at the bottom of the cone on that side. We all separated in little parties; I went with Miss Lushington and thought our way lost by the men with us once; but we got down first as it was. I walked with her all the way from the hot water fountain. When we were all collected, we mounted and had a long cold ride to Recina, from whence we proceeded to Naples, I in Sir Hy. Lushingtons carriage. We went by torchlight tonight on the mountain as there was no moon. At eleven I went to dine, or rather sup at the Dutchess as did Prince Butera and Bingham. In the middle of dinner we were put into confusion by her fainting away, I suppose from the fatigue. She soon recovered and then went to bed. Bingham and I sat there till near one. I have enjoyed this expedition extremely, particularly as the mountain was quite in a new state to me.

Sunday Feb 6. I did not get up till 10 1/2, and went to church directly after breakfast. It was very full as the day was beautiful, so I had to stand all the time. I then called on the Dutchess of Marlborough, who is quite well again, and at about 2 1/2 I rode out into the Toledo where the Corso was going on. I rode twice up to the end and back again, and thought the fun pretty good, tho' it is so childish. I pelted away two pockets full of sugar plums. The masks were not worth much. We dined alone and I staid at home after dinner. My Father about 8 returned from his chasse very well contented.

Monday Feb 7. The day was beautiful again, so I proposed a ride to Barington. We set off at 11 1/2 and rode through Pozzuoli along the coast to Baia and the promontory of Misenum. The views were brilliant and the scenery quite charming. We saw the chief lions of the coast. 1st the Canto canerelle; a set of little subterranean chambers and passages which probably enough they call prisons of Nero, who seems to have particularly favoured the coast. 2ndly. the tomb of Agrippina; whether correctly called so or not I cannot say. It was only a subterranean passage in stucco, with others intersecting it. 3rd. the Piscina Mirabile, which was anciently a reservoir of water to supply Misenum, and most likely shipping in the Bay. It must have been too large for Misenum
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alone. In returning by the same way I went down the baths of Nero where one sees a passage which leads downwards to a pool of boiling water, and is all through so hot with the steam as to make one perspire violently. It is used as a vapour bath. We then turned a little and went through what is called the Sybills grotto. It cuts through the mountain which divides the Lucrine and Averna Lakes. They say it used to continue underground to Cuma for the benefit of the Sybill. There is a place at the side of it where you see a chamber with old baths, which is now full of water, and I went on the guides back. In this they shew you the entrance of her palace. It is a pity they could not find the gold door with the bas reliefs by Dedalus. We returned after a most comprehensive ride at 5. At 5 1/2 I and the Dr. dined with Sir Wm. a Court, and met Lady Powerscourt and daughters, Carmarthen and Hudson, Lord Clarina and Cap. Duff, Col. and Mr. Gordon, Mr. Bailie and Knudtson, and Foley. At 9 we came home, and gave orders for setting off to Pesturn tomorrow. I found a dinner party in the drawing room at home, and staid with them till the end.

Tuesday Feb 8. I and the Dr. were to have started for Pesturn this morning, but my Father was sick in the night, and tho' he was quite comfortable again this morning, he thought it best to stay at home. At 12 I went a ride with Lord George up to the Camatooli, and enjoyed the beautiful view there to the full. In going, our two horses being stallions had a dreadful piece of work with a party whom we overtook; however we got past them a force of beating. After dinner Lord George and I went at 7 to San Carlo and heard the Donna del Lago and one good Balletto. We were in the Pitt. I visited the Dutchess of Dorset and Marlborough together, and Lady a Court.

Wednesday Feb 9. The expedition to Pesturn was postponed till today. Lord George and Mr. Wilbraham joined it. At 9 we started in a caleche and 4 horses. The day was beautiful. We passed by Pompeii, Nocera, Cava, etc. to Salerno where we stopped for the night at about 2. The road had passed through the valley of Cava for a good distance, till we looked upon the Bay of Salerno, which gave a magnificent prospect, equal to those of Naples and Baia I think. We got lodings in a house looking over the sea, and were very well off in that respect; for the rest of the town and the Inn are very dirty. We went with a cicerone to see the Cathedral where there are several mosaics and columns taken from Pesturn by Robert Guiscard when he destroyed it. We also were shewn an ancient aqueduct which still gives water to the town. We had dinner sent us from the Inn and walked after it about the Quay along the shore, which is much the neatest thing of Salerno. In the evening we played at whist, while our hostesss sister charmed us from the next room with her guitarr. At 9 we went to bed; Lord George and I in one room.
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Thursday Feb 10. Our voituriers made us start this morning at 4. We arrived at Pesturn about 9 1/2. We passed near Persano, the Kings palace where my Father had been to shoot. The latter part of the road was horrid, and all the country seemed wild and neglected. The mountains were fine to our left, and particularly when at Pesturn they made a beautiful amphitheatre round it. The ruins I was not at all disappointed at, particularly the temple of Neptune which is grand and massive. The Basilica and temple of Ceres were not so fine. The walls may be traced all round the town, and one gate remains entire. One does not see many traces of the town besides. We staid about 2 hours and got back to Salerno about 5 1/2. We had gone about 56 Neapolitan miles. We had our dinner and whist as yesterday. This has been a more sucessfull trip than last Feb 10.

(124) Naples Feb 11 Feb 19 1820

Friday Feb 11. We left Salerno at 8, well pleased with it altogether. We stopped at Pompeii for 2 hours, and saw all the town, but not the amphitheatre. It was quite as interesting the 3rd. as the first time, for one always finds out something new among the ruins. We reached Naples at 3 1/2. I staid at home till dinner. In the evening we went to Lady a Courts party, where we staid till 11 1/2 about. It was not very good.

Saturday Feb 12. Today I had to prepare myself for the Kings masked ball tonight. I had every thing settled by 12, and at 1 rode with Willoughby, up by Virgils tomb, round to Capo di Monte; thence to the Campo Marzio and home. We dined at 5, and at 6 1/2 I had to dress, having but just received my clothes, by going for them myself. Our quadrille party collected at the Crocella. There were 8 couples of us. The Ladies were Lady Caroline Churchill, Lady Charlotte Osborne, 2 Winkfields, Miss Upton, 2 Markhams, and Miss Kennedy. The men were Carmarthen, Hudson, Clarina, Cap. Duff, Col. Gordon, Cap. Hess, Count Wallmonden and myself. I danced in my place among them, with all but Miss Upton and the 1st. Miss Markham, i.e. 6 quadrilles. The rooms were magnificent and very well lighted, and the whole was capitally managed; but I was extremely tired before 3 when I came home. There were, I should think, nearly 1000 people there; among them almost 200 English. The dresses were some of them very pretty, but there was no great shew. The Neapolitans are very poor I fancy. Our ladies were very prettily dressed as Russians. We were Poles, the first and last time I dare say that I shall be any thing but an Englishman. My Father was there in Domino, and the King treated him with great distinction. Newtson brought me home.

Sunday Feb 13. It has again turned to Scirocco and rain, for I went to church with our party, and then called on Lady Fremantle and walked back with Charles Fremantle in the only clear interval there was. The rest I staid at home, chiefly with Dick, in Gins room. Sir Humphry and Lady Davy dined with us, and Lord Whitworth and his Dutchess came after dinner. At 11 all of us went to the masked ball at San Carlo, the first time my Mother has seen her box, and the last I dare say. The thing was very flat as usual. Came home early.

Monday Feb 14. It was fine all the morning. After dinner it began raining. I was in a bustle all the morning settling an expedition which I have planned to Sicily. I spoke to my Father and Mother about it, and concluded a treaty to go with Barrington, as soon as we can get a passage to Messina. I went out with my Father to see sights, but none were open. I afterwards went in the Corso and pelted with Devon, Barrington and Pennant. George Fortescue and Dick dined with us. I went to the opera, first into the Duke of Leedss and Lady a Courts boxes; then after some time in the Ridotto with Dick I got into the Pitt till Devon took me home about 12 1/4 in heavy rain.
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Tuesday Feb 15. Heavy rain all day. I wrote letters and staid at home till 2 1/2, then walked with Dr. Wilson to the Post Office etc. At 6 dined with Sir Humphry and Lady Davy with my Father, and met Sir Wm. and Lady a Court, Lady Powerscourt, Lord St. Asaph, Willoughby and George Fortescue. More people came in after dinner. At 9 1/2 I went to the Accademia and danced with Lady Mary Fortescue, the 1st. Miss Markham, Louisa Lushington, Miss Winkfield, and waltzed with 2nd. Miss Kennedy and Miss Arden. This is a conclusion to my dancing at Naples I imagine. At 1 I went with Willoughby and Dick to a masked ball at San Carlo, where we staid about half an hour as it was very stupid. Today I am sorry to hear that my Father cannot have a ship to take them to Marseilles as Maitlands is wanted by his uncle, and as Pellew has once before refused to take them. I hope my Mother will bear her second journey by land, but it is an unpleasant undertaking.

Wednesday Feb 16. Raining almost all day. In the morning I thought it better to give up my own plans, and go with my Father and Mother by land, as they were obliged to do it. So I went and told Barrington of my determination, and he gave it up very good naturedly. But after I had spoken to my Mother and my Father about it they were on the other side and persuaded me still to keep to my scheme. So I went and again renewed my arrangements with Barrington, and am much more comfortable and less scrupulous about it. I staid at home till 3 1/2 and then walked a little with Willoughby and Lord George Thynne whom I met in the Villa. My Mother was very ill with a bad cold today, and went to bed before dinner. So Gin, the Dr. and I dined alone as my Father and Lord George dined out. After dinner we sat talking or reading till 11.

Thursday Feb 17. It was still horrid scirocco and rain in the morning. At 11 1/2 my Father started for Venafro on a royal chasse expedition. I went out languidly and strolling till about 2 1/2 when I rode up the Strada Nuova to the end. I met Willoughby who rode with me. After dinner we sat together till 9 1/2 and then went to the Dutchess of Dorsets music party. Ambrosio and Pesaroni sung, so it was very good. This evening the weather changed again I think to traquontana. This was the first ride to Strada Nuova since Jan 21, and will perhaps be the last, so I took my farewell of it.

Friday Feb 18. At 10 1/2 I rode to Falconets, then by myself I rode to Cuma, in order to see the amphitheatre etc there. But there being no cicerones about it I only could find that alone, and had to give up the rest of the sights there. I rode round to Baia, and there saw the temple of Mercury which is round with a dome like the Pantheon, and gives an extraordinary echo inside. The Rochfort lay in the Bay. It returned 2 days ago. On my way home I tied up my horse and walked up to the top of the Monte Nuovo, which rose 250 years ago and filled the Lucrine Lake nearly. It has a deep crater in the middle of it. I got home by 6. Lord George dined
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out. From 10 1/2 to 12 1/2 I was at Lady a Courts party, perhaps the last I shall have there.

Saturday Feb 19. Today I had a party made to Beneventura with Willoughby and Bailie. So at 6 I was up and went first to find Willoughby and with him went and took up Bailie. The day was fine. We had a caleche and three horses, and went through Acerra, Arienzo, Arpaia and to Beneventura. At Arpaia we stopped, and while the horses were resting we climbed a hill over the town, from whence we could command a view of the Val d'Arpaia, which is supposed to be the ancient Furculoe Caudinee where the Roman army were circumvented by the Samnites. Many books and great ones have been written on the question. I think it may very likely have been the place, tho' it must have been altered since that time. We had sausages and macaroni here, and proceeded to Benevento which we reached about 5 or 6. We went with the remaining light to take a look at the famous arch, and returned to dinner at the Inn. This was bad enough, but I have seen worse in Italy. We had two rooms and clean beds in them. We went to rest about ten after talking over our dinner for some time. Bailie has travelled a great deal, and has plenty to produce in conversation.

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Naples Feb 20 Mar 1 1820 (125)
Off Lipure islands in the Nymph

Sunday Feb 20. We got up early and set out with a cicerone about the town, which anciently was of some distinction. The chief object is a triumphal arch of Trajans, which is the finest thing of its kind I ever saw, and is thought the finest that exists. The cathedral is curious and has a handsome appearance within. It contains a large number of ancient columns and is well decorated, but very incorrect in architecture. There are in the town remains of an amphitheatre, of a ancient bridge, and several fragments of marbles and inscriptions. The present town is above the common run, and the country is not ugly, but different from any I have seen in Italy. We returned again through the Val d'Arpaia, which seemed to me this time to correspond very fairly with Livys description. The road was on the line of the Via Appia, and we passed two or three Roman bridges in good repair. After Arienzo we turned off and came to Naples thro' Maddalone, where the horses baited, while we walked about 2 miles out of the town to see the famous aqueduct built by Charles III, across a valley to conduct the old aqua Julia to Caserta, at the distance of 26 miles. The object and the means appear to me to be foolish, but the work as it stands is surprising. The length of the bridge is 2000 feet; its height 200. A road goes over the top where no carriages but the Kings may pass – a wise regulation!! We resumed our journey from the town and reached Naples late after a very pleasant and interesting expedition. I sat with my Mother till 11 1/2 and Dick who called on her for part of the time. She is still unwell, and Gin is very ill and has been keeping her bed.

Monday Feb 21. I went out with Barrington from 10 till 2 buying beds etc., for our Sicilian expedition. Then I went with him a ride to the end of the Strada Nuova and back. I and the Dr. dined tete a tete. After dinner Lady Davy and Dick came to visit. I went out once with the Dr. to see Vesuvius who has become more violent.

Tuesday Feb 22. I went at 8 to breakfast with Barrington, and then we set off to Caserta on horseback. We arrived there about 11 1/2, and saw the Palace and most part of the gardens. The staircase is very beautiful, and quite equal to all I have heard of it; and the chapel and theatre I thought very handsome. A great deal is brought here from Pozzuoli where it used to be in the Temples. The royal apartments extend over one quarter only of the palace; the remainder is all unfinished. What there is now is not so grand as it should be; but the shells of some of the unfinished rooms are on a fine scale. We got home by four; my horse having been stumbling all the way, but he never fell. Commissioner and Mrs. Wooley and Dick dined here. Lively conversation from the former. I went to a small ball at Sir Henry Lushingtons; and danced twice with Miss Upton, 2 Miss Lushingtons, the Batteuse with Lady Caroline Churchill, and waltzed with Emily Pinkfield. It was a pleasant party except just the beginning. Lady Lushington played
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chiefly.

Wednesday Feb 23. At 10 1/2 I went with Barrington to look at divers vessels in the mole to sail for Messina. At 2 1/2 I went riding up the Strada Nuova; Foley was with me most of the time. Dr. Wilson dined out. After dinner I sat with my Mother till bedtime. I am nearly prepared for my Sicilian tour which I start for on Saturday.

Thursday Feb 24. I was employed after breakfast settling affairs till 1, when I went with Lady Davy and Fortescue up to the Vomero to see the villa of Princess Floridia the Kings wife, which is very beautifully situated. We came round about, down by Virgils and Samazaros tombs, walking part of the way. Lady Davy I like much better than I used, she is very blue but is good humoured as possible. My Father returned today from Venafro, very well satisfied with his sport. I dined and staid the evening at home.

Friday Feb 25. I went with my Father to Falconets to settle affairs. I was after that about the town on various errands all day, except that I went on board the Rochfort for an hour. She was going to sail with Lady Fremantle and several other passengers. She did get under way about 4 o'clock. Buon Viaggio to her. After dinner I sat with our party till 10, and then went out to the Dutchess of Marlboroughs, where there were cards played. I was put to a commerce table which lasted an immense time. Lady Powerscourt dropped me at home in heavy rain about 1. Yesterday I met Stephen and Tom Croft to my extreme surprise. I had no notion of their being here or near it. I am sorry they did not come before.

Saturday Feb 26. The whole of today was spent in uncertainty when we were to sail for Sicily. The Scirocco however still continued and prevented us. I went twice to the mole with Barrington, made a bargain with the captain of the Nymph, an English merchantman etc., and also I went out visiting with Lord George, to make farewells which will be made null by seeing the same people again tomorrow. At dinner we had Lord Fortescue, Lady Mary and George Fortescue, Sir Humphry and Lady Davy, and Mr. Baillie. After dinner we all went on talking together till late.

Sunday Feb 27. This morning at 9 Barrington came and told me that he was going on board the Nymph immediately as the wind had proved fair, which nobody had come to tell me about before, so I had to hurry all my preparations, and get in breakfast, and then after saying good bye, go on board. The Vessel was out of the mole already. Willoughby did not get on board till later. So at 11 1/2 we fixed out course away from Naples. There were three English and one Italian passenger besides us three. The vessel was a brig, Captain Benjamin Johns. The day was very fine but calm, and we had not reached Capri when we went to bed. I was one of four who lay down on mattrasses in the little cabin below, where we had dined before.
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Monday Feb 28. We got up and found ourselves a little beyond Capri, with a contrary breeze, and every prospect of a long passage. Willoughby was sick most of the day. I, squeamish. We got on very slow. We went to bed as usual. The berths were not most tempting, but much better than any Italian packet would have been.

Tuesday Feb 29. Lipari islands in sight. We spent the day in getting on towards them very slowly. I was still squeamish, but we all eat very good dinners of our picknick and provisions.

Wednesday Mar 1. About 2 the wind turned in our favour, and we were past two of the Lipari islands before going to bed. We saw Stromboli after dark jutting out flames like Vesuvius.

(126) On board the Nymph Mar 2 Mar 7 1820 Nicolosia

Thursday Mar 2. We were near the dwellings of Aeolus last night, and accordingly atabout 2 he began puffing at us, and we had a violent gale of wind, which set our vessel in an uproar, it was luckily towards Messina, but it was so hazy that till some time after sunrise the captain could not tell where we were, so he lay too till we found ourselves near Calabria on a lee shore about 5 miles from the Faro of Messina. However, with some trouble we got in, and then after breakfasting in the straits till 2 we anchored in Nussina harbour. I never spent so rough a night as that. Being arrived we went through the formalities of the Quarantine office; and being released we got rooms at the Leone d'oro, where we had a good dinner at 7, and at 10 1/2 went to bed, none of us sorry to have got rid of our cabin berth, particularly such as it was last night.

Friday Mar 3. Got up at 9 1/2 rather late. I went out alone a little before breakfast. After it we were employed till 12 making arrangements, and seeing Mr. Barker the Vice Consul who called on us. Then I walked with Barrington about the town and through the castle on the harbour. We were caught in the rain and came home to dinner at 5. The evening we spent talking, reading and writing letters. The town of Messina has very little curious to see in it. It was almost totally knocked down by an earthquake in 1783, so antiquities are out of the question; but its being built all at once after the catastrophe has caused it to have regular and handsome streets throughout. The Quay would be very handsome if the buildings along it were finished. But when the English left Sicily, the demand for houses dropped, and left the speculators here in the lurch.

Saturday Mar 4. At about 12 I went walking with Barrington behind the town to the top of a mountain, whence we saw a fine view of the straights, and all its principal points. The country is very odly thrown about, and seems most fertile and smiling, but the people appear almost uncivilised, and make very little of their advantages. We came back and with Willoughby went to see a ceremony in the cathedral, which was meanly performed enough, tho' the priests seem very flourishing and numerous here. We staid at home again this evening, and did not go to the opera which there is here.

Sunday Mar 5. we were to have started on our expedition at 6, but our muleteer did not appear till much later, and at 7 1/2 we were off on our first day towards Catania. We had 8 mules amongst us, which we found however was a take in, and we shall retrench at Catania, for we have only engaged them till then. Our 3 ship companions started at the same time and were with us all day. We went along a most beautiful coast with very fine weather, and baited about 1 1/2 for an hour. We then went on to Taornina where we had but a short remainder of light to examine the antiquities, because of the laziness of the muleteer in the morning. However,
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we made the best of the time we had. I longed for 2 or 3 hours more. The view from theTheatre, including our first sight of Etna, was incomparable. We came on about 2 more miles to Giandini, where we put up for the night. We had one large room where we erected our beds, and got some fair stuff for dinner. I wrote my journal and went to rest about 10 1/2.

Monday Mar 6. We started at sunrise about 6. We went along the coast a little way, and then our road turned. The baggage went on to Nicolosi straight, and we went out of the way to the Castagna dei centocavalta on the foot of Etna, which is held up as a lion to be seen by all travellers. For that reason I am glad that I saw it, but as to any thing curious in it I was quite disappointed. There are 5 large chesnut trees standing in a circle which they pretend were all belonging to the same tree and were separated by time, but it is perfectly clear that no such thing was the case. In the morning we passed over several beds of torrents. One river we passed with a bridge that has the same story, very nearly, belonging to it as the Devils bridge in Wales. Dogs being in both cases sent over first instead of Christians to pay the forfeit for having it built. One cannot suspect collusion I should think. The Castagna is in the woody region of Etna, and the road on both sides of it is extremely bad, and we were a long time getting through our days journey. We arrived at Nicolosi about 7, but we had to go on 2 miles more to a Benedictine convent where they received us, for the Inn had but one room, and that we left to the other party who travellled with us all today. On the way to the convent we saw a great deal of snow on the ground. We had three rooms given us where our beds were erected. We dined in one and went to bed directly prepared for going up Etna the next morning. At Nicolosi we had settled every thing for this purpose with the guides.

Tuesday Mar 7. We had expected to start at 2 for Etna. So at 1 1/2 I got up and nearly dressed, then lay down again to wait for the mules and guides who did not come till near 5, and by that lost us our great object. We rode about 7 miles through the regione della Selve to La Grotta delle Capreacave at the end of the woods where they lighted us a fire under a tree and we eat some breakfast before starting. I was dressed with every thing double which I found was not necessary afterwards, but rather retarded me. We started from hence about 8, and walked away as we could with the guides amongst us. Snow had fallen on Sunday, but not deep, and the walking was not difficult; but when we got within 1 1/2 miles from the top, a violent snow storm began which took away all chance of seeing the view if we had been at the top. However, I and Barrington got to the Casa Inglese where Willoughby was already about 10 min after 11. This was 1 1/4 from the top and we determined to go down again. The last part of this was very laborious, not from the walking which is very good over the old snow; but from the rarefaction of the air which makes one lose breath every 30 or 40 steps completely; as one advances it becomes
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much worse. Coming down was much less fatiguing, though we found the snow twice or three times as deep as it was before. When we rached the cave we found the other party who were behind us and had turned back sooner. I did not feel at all knocked up here, and with Barrington and Mr. Goodman walked the 7 miles back to the convent, where we arrived about 3. We sent for our mules from Nicolosi, and at 3 started for Catania in company with an Inn keeper of that place. I came in about 8 1/2 having lagged behind the others. We put up at the Elephant and Castle, a very clean and good Inn for Sicily, and we had an excellent dinner. Went to bed at 10 1/2.

Catania Mar 8 Mar 18 1820 Palazzolo (127)

Wednesday Mar 8. We all staid in doors till about 2 to settle affairs and write journals etc. Then Barrington and I walked out about the town till 5. It has 5 or 6 very fine streets, and is very regularly built from the same reason as Messina, because it was all knocked down in 1683. We went along the coast also and saw the lava which had flowed down from Etna, and had made a cliff into the sea. This was a very fine sight as the waves broke on the rough edges of the lava, and were in their turn encroaching on their enemy. We dined at 6, and had a mercantile gentleman of this town sitting by us from the time we sat down till 9 at least; he was introduced to Willoughby by a letter from Messina. After him, our landlord came and told us some long stories of his feats up Etna, which altogether kept us till 11. I then read and wrote till about 1 and went to bed.

Thursday Mar 9. At 8 I was out walking with Barrington till he went home, and I went alone to the end of a promontory of lava on the right of the port, which is in fact formed by it, for the old port of Catana was filled by the eruption of the mountain. After breakfast I was out till 4 seeing the Benedictine convent and divers antiquities, and Prince Biscaris museum, whither the Cavaliere Paterno a recommandi of Barringtons accompanied us. Today we went round the antiquities also with the regular cicerone that has the keys of them. We dined at 6 and talked afterwards for some time to our friends Mass.rs McGaul, Goodman and Vickers. Then I read a little and went to bed.

Friday Mar 10. I went before breakfast sketching. After I saw collections in different kinds of Marchese Gioeni, Barone Recuperos and again Biscaris. After dinner Cavaliere Paterno came and took Barrington and me to the Cafe of Reunion of the Nobilita, who are a set such as I never saw; then we went on to the societa; at the house of the Intendentes Lady, La Duchessa di S. Martino, from whence we tore ourselves very soon.

Saturday Mar 11. We left Catania at 9 1/2 with 6 mules, and a new muleteer whom we engaged yesterday. We had fine weather and went through the plain of Catania to Lentini which we reached at 3. We went out directly to see what we could find of ancient remains, and were accompanied by a mixed society of priests and other inhabitants. After a considerable walk we returned to dinner which was rather a poor one, on what we brought from Catania. Went to bed at 10.

Sunday Mar 12. We started at 7 1/2 from Lentini. The day was the most beautiful almost I can remember, and the mountain looked so beautiful, that I wished myself often at the top of it. The country we passed for the first part was wild and pretty; afterwards it was flat till Sinacuse, but was still fine to look at. We passed in sight of Augusta, which was a pretty coup d'oeuil, and came to Sinacuse at about 4, to the Ortygia Inn which
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was a very poor one. After dinner a certain Sign.r Politi to whose son we had a letter came to see us and took us to shew us some views of Sinacuse at his house, but the son came afterwards who is cut with his father, and we had to get rid of the former, and are to start lionising with him tomorrow.

Monday Mar 13. The day was rainy and a scirocco blew, so we could not go out in the country as we intended, but with Mr. Giuseppe Politi we saw the museum and other things in the town, and then after staying in for an hour about 2, we went to see the stone quarries near the Capuchin convent in the Old Acradina and the catacomb which both give one a vast idea of the ancient grandeur of Sinacuse. Our cicerone we found very stupid as I thought, tho' everyone says the contrary, but he seemed no better than a la*g**ey de place on terms of civility. I hope he may prove beter tomorrow. We dined at 6. After which I sat some time with our three friends the travellers, and then retired to my own room.

Tuesday Mar 14. Mr. Politi came again at 10, and we started with mules to take a survey of the more distant sights. We went either riding or on foot to a point at the end of the ruins of the walls supposed to be Labdalus. I was very much interested with the days work; we made the country tally very well with Livy and Thucydides. Returning we saw the Theatres etc., and dined at 6. I did not go to bed till 2.

Wednesday Mar 15. About 10 I set off with Barrington, and we took a boat to the point of Plemnyrium across the great harbour where we staid for some time. I bathed there and took a sketch, and then we came back across the port to the river Anapus. I rowed this part of the voyage, the first time since Cambridge I think. We walked up the river and there met a cacciatore who conducted us to the place where the Papyrus grows. We then returned with Willoughby whom we met. While at dinner Mr. Politi came with an extempore poet, a friend of his and a Free Mason. They went away soon and I read and wrote.

Thursday Mar 16. I went out at 8 and drew the theatre, came home to bereakfast, and then with Barrington walked to Epipolce to the end. Coming back I went alone along the line of the old walls which interested me very much, took a view of Syracuse, and home to dinner. I have been very well amused at Syracuse, the historical interest is so very great in it and its environs.

Saturday Mar 17. At 7 1/2 we started for Noto. The day was very fine and the road rather pretty. We arrived at about 2, it being 22 miles, and found two rooms at an Inn, not very splendid but clean enough. We went to see the museum of Barone Astuto where there are some marbles, very moderate; a few bronzes and small vases, and a very fine collection of medals. We came back to a very fair dinner cooked by Giovanni. We went to bed early and I got devoured by fleas rather more than usual.
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Saturday Mar 18. I left Noto at 7 1/2 and I walked for 2 hours, then got on my horses, soon after which it began raining till we got near Palazzuolo 18 miles off. It is the first rain we have had on the road, which is good luck enough. The road was ***** rock, the worst I ever passed over certainly, and we were 7 hours on it. We got into a Capuchin convent as there is no Inn here. **********
**************** to see some excavations of the old town of Acroe made by a Barone Judica who also shewed us a ********************* and we returned to a dinner by Giovanni, and the monks bored us with several visitors in our room till we locked the door up against them.

< N.B. Bad water staining at the bottom of this page. >

(128) Palazzolo Mar 19 Mar 29 1820 Marsala

Sunday Mar 19. We started from the convent at about 8. The weather was fair till about 11 o'clock, and then it began raining hard till 2 when we arrived at Vizzini; the road all the way was over rocks and stones, very bad indeed. The country was mountainous, and would have been pretty in good weather. At Vizzini we baited our mules, and ourselves got into a room where we had some bread and dried ourselves. About 3 we started again notwithstanding the solicitations of our muleteer, and got to Calata Girone about 8. The rain ceased nearly when we were at Vizzini, and we ended with a beautiful starlight evening. We found a good Inn enough at Calata Girone kept by a Frenchman. We had some supper and went to bed at 10. 12 miles to Vizzini, then 14 to Calata Girone.

Monday Mar 20. At 6 1/2 we set off for Castrogiovanni; the sky was very threatening, but we had no rain all day. We went 14 miles and baited at Piazza for half an hour, then 18 miles more to Castro Giovanni, where we arrived at 6 1/2. The road was generally good, except some miles of deep Northamptonshire mud, and the last 3 miles which were dreadfully deep and greasy. The country was very pretty. At Castro Giovanni the Inn was not possible to put up with, so we were bold to go and find the Intente of the place, a little fat man, who was very civil and introduced us to a convent of Franciscans who gave us three good rooms in which we erected our beds. We waited about an hour and then had an excellent dinner cooked by Giovanni. During that time one of the brothers came and moaned to us about the political state of Sicily. Went to bed at 10. This place is very high and cold and ******* to the winds.

Tuesday Mar 21. Got up late. After breakfast we walked about with a stupid cicerone who did not know anything about the place. The day was foggy, however I took a sketch from the top of an old castle where the view was very fine. We dined at 5. After dinner the Intendente came with two friends to visit us. He has been very civil to us, considering the sort of application we made to him. I went to bed at 9.

Wednesday Mar 22. At 8 we started for Calta Nisetta in a thick fog. However, the sun conquered afterwards, and a beautiful day followed. We arrived about 3, and for want of room at one Inn which seemed tolerable, and because of the beastliness of another, we put up at a Capuchin convent just outside the town where we were very well off. We walked about the town for some time and found nothing worth looking at, and came to dinner about 7. I made several sketches during my walks.

Thursday Mar 23. About 7 we set off for Girgenti. I started on foot for about 3 or 4 miles till I was called back by one of the muleteers to wait for Willoughby who was lost. However, he appeared in 1/2 an hour and we went on; we baited at Castro Philippo, and arrived at Girgenti about 6. Here we hunted for a
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long time before we could obtain lodgings, the inn being very bad, and the Dominicans not consenting to take us in. We finally got room in a Carmelite convent where we had a supper of fish and eggs as there is no meat in the town. Our superior gave us a long visit.

Friday Mar 24. We went out at 11 to see the antiquities of Agrigentum which lie at some distance from the present town. We had a cicerone who was by far the stupidest brute that ever I met with. However, he knew the names of the places and the way to them, and we made out the rest as well as we could. I imprudently went into some catacombs there, from which I got covered with 10 thousand fleas I should think. I stripped myself completely in one of the temples but to no purpose, and I brought home an infinite number, and propagated them over all the rest of the party. We did not get back till late, so at 7 about we dined, and afterwards drew, wrote etc. Our friend the superior sat almost all the evening with us. He is an agreeable man, the best monk I have met with. We went to bed about 11 1/2 in dread of the fleas which overspread the room.

Saturday Mar 25. This morning it rained and there was a good deal of thunder, which cleared away about 10 or 11. While we were at breakfast a Dominican monk called Padre Fornica, who had sent us a message last night, chose to come and call on us, and after a deal of humbug made us go out with him to his room for some time. After this we walked our ways till 3 when we went with this fellow, who is in fact a disgusting sponger, to see a collection of antique vases in the house of one Signor Panitteri, some of which were very pretty. We then came to dress and went to dine with the Marquese Palermo, Intendente of this district, to whom Barrington had a letter. We met there Generale Morrick and 7 other gentlemen of Girgenti. We had a very good dinner and I liked the Intendente extremely. He gave us a great deal of information about Sicily. We returned home and had tea about 8 1/2.

Sunday Mar 26. We were to have gone to the temples today with Raffael Politi, but the weather was so bad that we could not, so we only walked about the town, saw the library and the church, and sat some time with Politi whom I like very much. He seems clear and unpresuming, much better in both respects than his brother. At Syracuse we dined at 6 and had our superior company in the evening as usual. Padre Fornica we have heard very bad stories about as I suspected, and have cut him accordingly today.

Monday Mar 27. At 7 we started for Sciacca. The sky threatened us at first, but we had afterwards a beautiful day; the country was pretty under these circumstances. We baited at Mont Allegro, and arrived at Sciacca about 8. We had a letter from the Intendente to a Dominican convent which received us and gave us very good accomodation. We dined, or rather supped at 9 1/2, and I went to
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bed very comfortably after it.

Tuesday Mar 28. As this is a short days journey to Castel Vetrano, we did not start till 8 1/2, and I went to bathe before, and to look for some antique baths but found they were too far off to go to. The day was beautiful, and the road good enough. We reached the ruins of Selinus about 2, and there we staid amusing ourselves with them for two hours, having sent part of the mules on. We then proceeded to Castle Vetrano, I having the Boy en croupe. We arrived at about 6 and went to see a statue in the town of St. John Baptist, and then came to dinner at the Capuchin convent where Giovanni had got us very nice cells. I drew and wrote in the evening, got the oil of the lamp spilt on my sketch book and did not get to bed till past 12.

Wednesday Mar 29. We started at 7 from Castel Vetrano for Mazzara and Marsala. We stopped at Campo Bello 4 miles from our starting, and wandered for some time among some ancient stone quarries which Baillie told me to look at, before leaving Naples. They were very interesting to me, nearly as much as anything I have seen. At Mazzara we stopped to bait and arrived at Marsala about 5 where we could

Marsala Mar 30 Apr 6 1820 Palermo (129)

not obtain room at any convent , and were obliged about 7 to put up at a locanda abounding with fleas, otherwise passable. While the rest were seeking room, Barrington and I called on Mr. Wodehouse, a great English wine merchant here who pressed us to come to his house, but we thought better not. He seems to think himself commissioned to keep up the English character in a strange land, for he is a John Bull in caricature, in his manner. I was very much surprised in returning from his house to see the beginning of an eclipse of the moon, which I had no suspicion of before.

Thursday Mar 30. We went at 8 1/2 to breakfast with Mr. Wodehouse and see his wine stores. He has been very civil to us, and is indeed to all English that travell through the country. The party before us of Mr. McGavel and Co staid two nights in his house. I had rather put up with a few more inconveniences at a locanda, than be more comfortably lodged and not be at my ease. About 10 1/2 we started for Trapani. The day was beautiful as they have been since we left Gingenti. I walked more than an hour as I always do. Arriving at Trapani we found that Giovanni had taken rooms at a small locanda, passably good, but not for such a town at this. We walked out before dinner on the quay; after dinner I read and wrote and talked.

Friday Mar 31. This was Good Friday. The first, and I hope the last, I shall spend without going to church; not that I should not like to be abroad another year. We were reminded of the day by quantities of groups representing the passion and crucifixion almost as large as life carried about on mens shoulders, which absurd as they are seemed to make impression on the populace. Men dressed in black accompanied them with crowns of thorns and crosses. It strikes me as direct idolatry nearly. The gentry were all in mourning, and the sentinels had their muskets inverted. We all three took a walk up to the top of Monte di Trapani, the ancient Eryx, where is a town of the same name. We examined what was to be seen there, and came down again to dinner. The distance was 5 miles, and a hot walk it was, but I enjoy mountain views beyond anything. At the top we called on Conte Ermandisi, an old gentleman of 83 who has an attempt at a museum. We dined at 6 1/2 and had some meat which we have not been able to get for some days, it being passion week.

Saturday Ap 1. We started for Alcame about 7 1/2 as usual. We all mistook the road and had a long caccia to overtake the guide on the right one having been obliged to return some way. We stopped at 1 1/2 at the temple of Segesta where we wandered about with great pleasure for 3 or 4 hours. The day was beautiful. I took the boy behind me on the cavalluccio from thence to Alcamo where we arrived about 6 1/2, and found a very good locanda.

Sunday Ap 2. Easter day. We set off from Alcamo about 7 1/4.
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I walked on for an hour, and then rode forward all the way to **lonreal where I stopped an hour till the others came up, and then we proceeded together to Palermo. In the villages we passed the people were all out in their best clothes, which was a very pretty sight. Bells were clattering every where, and feux de joie were fired in several villages as we passed, with a row of little tubes loaded with gun powder in the market places; and processions went about of people in fancy dresses with flags and drums. This religion is most extraordinary. It strikes me as impious, but I suppose it takes possession of the common people sooner than a more sensible one. We came to Palermo about 4 1/2 and found a very good Inn. Massters McGurel, Goodman, and Vickham are in it. They are sick of their tour; how I cannot conceive, for I never enjoyed myself better.

Monday Ap 3. I went out before breakfast on the marina, a beautiful publick walk on the sea shore. After breakfast Willoughby obtained some newspapers which we read till 1 or 2, and then we went walking to the top of Monte Pellerino to the West of the Town from whence the view was most glorious. I think I have seen none which pleased me more in Italy. But this perhaps was from the elevation, for I do not yet allow this Bay to be prettier than that of Naples, as many people say. I staid at the top drawing for some time, and then regained the road by which I ran to the bottom and got home about 6 1/4. Willoughby and Barrington lost their way coming down, and did not get home till an hour after. The day was beautiful, and I enjoyed the walk and view very much. We dined and sat at home in the evening. I went to bed at 12 1/2.

Tuesday Ap 4. This morning I took a boat into the bay and bathed. In the course of the day I walked a good deal about, and went with Barrington to a Capuchin convent with catacombs where the bodies are left dried up and exposed; a most extraordinary custom. We dined at 6 and went to the opera of San Carolina where the Cenen***tola of Rossini was acted. The music was very pretty and the actors not bad.

Wednesday Ap 5. I went before breakfast to see the Royal Chapel and other things in the town. After I walked about with Willoughby till 12, and then we took a carriage and went to the Benedictine convent of San Martino about 6 miles off. It was a pleasant drive, tho' we had to walk both ways a good deal; going, because the horses were not strong enough to move the carriage up hill, and coming back for fear of overturning. We found most of the Padri asleep after their dinner, but one gave us his company and shewed us about. It rained a little on our return. After dinner Willoughby and I went to the opera where we were both bored to extinction with bad music and worse singing.

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Thursday Ap 6. I walked a little before breakfast. after it I and Barrington took a carriage and went to see the Favorita Palace of the King which is as mean an attempt at one as need be in point of size at least. It is neatly furnished enough in the Chinese stile. We came home with some rain about 2 1/2.

(130) Palermo Ap 7 Ap 17 1820 Messina

At 6 we dined with Dr. Vickers whose two companions went to Naples yesterday by sea. We sat together till near ten, and then I retired to write etc.

Friday Ap 7. I did not go out before breakfast. Today there blew a violent scirocco which was quite different from the Naples ones and much more sensible. It was dry and dusty and the air felt like a puff from an oven. This is nothing to what it is in the summer. I went out first with Barrington, and then with Willoughby called on Mr. Linderman the consul, and saw some pictures in a palace of the Prince Campo Franco; the names were too fine to be genuine. We again dined with Dr. Vickers. I came up in the evening to write a letter.

Saturday Ap 8. Breakfasted and set out at 7 for Termini. The scirocco was not so violent but it was spitting rain all day at intervals. We stopped a little while at Bagaria near Palermo, but baited nowhere. The road was good and generally caroggabile. We got in about 3 and walked about looking for antiquities till dinner. And after dinner I took another walk with Willoughby. We had a very fair locanda.

Sunday Ap 9. Set off at 6 for Alimena. We are to go across country again instead of taking the straight road to Messina, in order to make another trial of Etna; this weather is not very promising for it. Part of the road was very pretty mountain scenery; all of it was in the Northamptonshire stile and would be horrid with rain. We got in about 7 and had the worst Inn we have seen I think. However we all went to bed and slept sound after dinner, for which we had to wait a long time.

Monday Ap 10. We got up in full expectation of a wet day and at 6 1/2 went off in a heavy shower of rain. This is the first time we have been obliged to do this; it only lasted for an hour, and after that it remained fair for all but two more showers with thunder. The country was part of it pretty, but there was a great deal of horrible bare mountains, one succeeding another. At St. Filippo the Locanda was very clean and good. I and Willoughby walked up to the top of the hill there before dinner, we arrived at 5 1/2.

Tuesday Ap 11. The day was beautiful. Mount Etna shewed itself quite clear before us, and gave us great hopes for our expedition; we started at 6 for Nicolosi. In the middle of the day we again got up on the lava ground, and stopped at Aderno, where a fool of a man led us a long walk all for nothing, in search of some antiquities. We came in to Nicolosi about 7, not quite so cold as when we came in last time. We had the old Etna guide to parley with immediately. After some debate and his refusing for some time, we settled to start up Etna in the night, so we lay down on some beds full of fleas in a miserable room for some time, then had
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some dinner, and then at 10 1/2 instead of going to bed started on some mules for the Grotto della Capre. When we arrived at Nicolosi there were a great many clouds all about, but now the sky was quite clear. We dismounted at the Grotto, and started with one guide and a little lantern on foot, and made a very successful expedition of it. The snow was not deep and did not come low and was frozen over, so the walking was very good; and I did not find my breath fail near so much as last time. We saw a beautiful sunrise, then went to the top and staid an hour over the crater, admiring that and the view from it, and then started down again having completed the greatest object of a Sicilian tour. We arrived about 10 1/2 at Nicolosi and breakfasted. And at 2 1/2 started for Jaci Reale where we arrived about 5, having had 35 hours work without any sleep, and only two long baits. We had a very good Locanda where we dined and went to bed without much delay.

Thursday Ap 13. We walked some time after breakfast to see the Scalazzu and other objects such as churches worthy of notice, and about 9 set off for Giardini. I ********** rode from Le Giarre with a blackguard Sicilian officer who kept with me to the end. This bit of road I remembered with great interest from last time we passed it. I arrived about 3; took a bathe and went up the hill to Taornina where I sat drawing the thratre for a good while; the view was indeed beautiful today, especially with Etna quite clear in the background. We came down to dinner at 1/4 to 8 in an excellent Locanda, a different one sure enough from that we were in before. I wrote journal and went to bed at 11.

Friday Ap 14. Today we started to complete the tour of the Island by arriving again at Messina. I set off with Barrington about 7 and went up to Taornina to see the view from the old castle. We had a good try up to it on foot and were well paid when at the top. We met the other mules who had gone the lower road along the shore at a place where we baited I believe Rochetta perhaps. Here Barrington and I bathed and had some fish luncheon. We arrived at Messina about 6 and had dinner about 7 1/2 at the Leon d'Ore where the fat waiter jabbered dreadfully. We dismissed Vincenzo Ruggiero our muleteer; I am sorry to part with him for he has served us very well.

Saturday Ap 15. A violent scirocco was set in today and its concomitant inertia came upon me, so I hardly went out, except to call on Mr. Barker and to eat an ice. We dined at 6, after which I did some little in the way of writing and reading and went to bed at 11 1/2.

Sunday Ap 16. Still the same scirocco. At 1 we started in a carriage to the Faro point, a very beautiful drive. We intended to have taken a boat from thence to Scilla and back, but we found there would not be time, as the boatmen would not get ready. We came back by 4, had a walk on the quay and dined at 6 as usual.
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Monday Ap 17. Today we left Messina and Sicily for good. We were much plagued with our preparation in the morning, and with the officious fat waiter Giaccobi. About 10 we set off for Reggio in a little boat

Reggio Ap 18 Ap 23 1820 Spezzano (131)

with 5 men, which could hardly hold us. In the passage the wind was pretty high and we got extremely ducked; so we considered ourselves altogether unlucky as sea expeditions. We reached Reggio in about 3 hours. The Inn was tolerable, at least one room that we had. We had several letters for people in office here. The General was one, but he being away we went to the Colonel who got us mules, and gave us other letters. The Intendente was not here either, but the consiglieri was very civil and after our dinner gave us a drive in a carriage about the town.

Tuesday Ap 18. We hired six mules and started for Palmi about 7 1/2. We had 5 Calabrese muleteers to go with us. The mules were very good, but the pack sadles most uncomfortable to sit on. About 15 miles from Reggio we came to Scilla where we stopped and I went to examine the rock whereon now stands a castle guarded by armed peasants. I was refused admittance by these at the gate, and so I climbed up outside the rock to look over the sea and was caught and made prisoner by the sentinel; so there I remained under guard for an hour nearly till Willoughby who was near had gone to the Comandante di Piazza and obtained an order for my dismissal. I shall not forget therefore Scilla and her modern bulldogs. The scenery during most of the day was beautiful, and I was glad we had undertaken the journey; as the people at Reggio said the danger of Brigands was not so great as is said. We took no escort today at all and arrived at Palun about 6 1/2. The locanda was bad. We had to walk out and find the commanding officer to apply for an escort; he was in a little casino over the sea in the finest situation perhaps I ever saw.

Wednesday Ap 19. We got up very early, but the escort were not ready for some time. About 6 1/4 we started for Monteleone. We had 5 men with guns mounted on mules to go with us. They are a kind of militia against the malviventi, they only had a cap of uniform. At Rosarno we baited after passing 2 hours in the bosco di Rosarna, formerly a notorious place for Brigands. From hence we had 4 men on foot who went with us till within sight of Monteleone, where they returned as the road beccame quite open and secure. Monteleone is a large town, better I think than Reggio. We got a moderate room in a locanda. A Colonel who gave us our escort was very civil and indeed he asked us to his house but we declined; and he got us some more mules to go to Cosenza.

Thursday Ap 20. This morning we set off with ten soldiers about 5 1/2. They walked for the first part of the day quicker than our horses would have gone, but latterly they flagged a little. We stopped at Pizzo on the sea coast about 6 miles from Monteleone. This was where Murat disembarked from Sardinia, and where he was shot and buried. All these places we saw and then went on till we stopped at a fundaco in the middle of the plains of Maida celebrated for Sir John Stuarts victory over Regnier. The country was covered with woods, very well suited to the cover of Banditti,
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which formerly were full of them till General Manchis under Murat destroyed them. Now the only danger is from the peasants who are all rascals and unite sometimes and attack unarmed travellers. Near one of these 2 months ago they robbed the Procaccio Reale or publick messenger who now goes with a large escort of troops and gendarmes. We arrived at Nicastro about 4. Here we met a marching regiment who took up all the lodgings, so that the commander of the district to whom we had letters, could not find us rooms for a long time. At last we got into a Dominican convent, of the few that are left in this country; two or three stupid friars are its only inhabitants. It was a barrack of soldiers in Murats time and has lately been restored.

Friday Ap 21. At 5 1/2 we started for Cosenza with 6 soldiers. We stopped to bait at Bugliano and reached our end early about 4 1/2. This is a tolerable town, but the Inn was horrid; we had one room between two others which were full of beastly people who made the greatest stench of froustiness in the night that I ever met with. We had great deliberations tonight about our future progress, and ended by hiring a canistra and 4 horses to go to Naples as there is a rotabile road from hence.

Saturday Ap 22. We had four gendarmes today, who bundled up about our carriage as well as they could stick on. The carriage was a complete rattletrap, on which we three got inside, Gachet and Giovanni on the box, the coachman and one gendarmes on the bar. The whole baggage and three gendarmes on the board behind, and the old postilion a head. We started for Spezzano about 6, and got over the road bad and good very well, without tumbling to pieces and quicker than we should with mules. We had to stop many times especially for a kicking rusty horse which we had. It rained very hard the latter part of the day, almost all the way from Taverna Nuova a house where we stopped to bait; as this bit of journey was not agreeable with a leaky carriage, horrid roads, four squeaking stallions and as blackguard a looking set of people as ever I saw to pass through. We reached Spezzano about 4 and found a bad inn as might be expected, but it was sweeter than last night. We had a long talk to our landlord over the fire while waiting for our dinner which Giovanni made us do for an immense time. All in one room.

Sunday Ap 23. Started at 6 for Rotonda; the same gendarmes went with us. It was fine all the morning. After Morano where we baited we had a good deal of rain. The road was better than yesterday

(132) Rotonda Ap 24 May 1 1820 Naples
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but we had to get out two or three times for it. There were two or three dangerous places that we passed, for brigands; at one a man was shot and robbed the 9th. of this month. Their are ten know robbers our guards said about the country we passed. The Inn at Rotonda was very clean and nice; contrary to our expectations for this town and all its neighbours are the most piggish places to be conceived. We had our dinner early, and afterwards I wrote my journal up and went to bed.

Monday ap 24. From Rotonda we started at about 6 for Lagonero. It was very fine in the morning, but about middday it began raining, and ended by being a miserable cold day, as also the last two have done, which is particularly ill suited to our crazy Canistra. We changed escorts twice at Castellucio and at Lauria, and after ten very slow and hilly miles we arrived at Lagonero about 4 or 5, and had a tolerable inn but a very tough dinner.

Tuesday Ap 25. We left Lagonero about 6 1/2 and baited at Sala and arrived at Auletta about 4 as the road was excellent and we went quick enough. We had 3 sets of Gendarmes on horseback today; 2 for the first 20 miles, and 1 for the remaining 16. We have got all the bad part of the country with robes improfaned by robbers, but we still take escort by way of perfect precaution, as we have been advised to do so till Salerno even; and the people still seem just as surly and Gothic as in the more distant parts. The Inn at Auletta is very bad, but we got a good dinner enough.

Wednesday Ap 26. This was the worst days weather that we have had I think. It rained almost incessantly from 8 o'clock till 4. We set off from Auletta about 5 1/2. We had no escort till Duchessa, 8 miles, as the gendarmes were waiting to receive a general on the road at Duchessa. 2 men rode with us till we met the general, and then turned back. However, we arrived at Salerno about 3 o'clock without being stopped or murdered. I was delighted at getting in and being rid of all the troubles on the journey. We went straight to the same lodgings where I was before with Lord George and the Doctor. Our fat hostess was very glad to see me again. The rooms looked sumptuous after what I had lately lived in. We walked out for some time to the Cathedral etc., and at 6 1/2 came and had a very good dinner from the Inns kitchen.

Thursday Ap 27. Again heavy rain till 11 or 12 o'clock. We started from Salerno for Napoli about 7 o'clock and drove very prosperously except with respect to the rain to Pompeii where we baited and walked all round the town and amphitheatre. I was as much interested with it as ever, but found that I knew it all very well before, and made no new discoveries in it. We staid two hours about and came on to Naples where we disembarked at the Albergo Reale about 4. Barrington and I got two niceish rooms in it. Willoughby went and put up at the Crocelle. I set about business
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directly, had my trunk and carriage sent up from Don Antonios our old landlord, and went down the Villa Reale to Bingham who I found had changed his habitation. I saw several English, some old Napolitans but more new comers from Rome. Naples looks beautiful at this time of the year, and I wish I had time to give a month to it but I shall go in 3 days I think. We three dined together in the Alberge Reale Trattoria as a conclusion to our joint confederacy.

Friday Ap 28. I got up rather early and breakfasted with Barrington at 8 1/2. Afterwards I went to Falconets, to Bingham, to Sir H. Lushington and settled divers bits of business. Bingham has been to Rome where he got ill and has been confined here for three weeks. Wilton is here with Mr. Carrighan of St. Johns as a travelling companion. He drove out for some time with Barrington and me for some time, after which I and Barrington walked in the Villa till 6 and met all our acquaintance. I dined with the Lushingtons, and met Prince Butera, Willoughby and Mr. Thurttle R.N. I staid till about 10 and then went to a party at Sir George Talbots, who has our old house. It looked different enough from what it ever had before, full of gay folk. I came home about 1, rather sad with seeing the representation of what I had enjoyed in the winter but all the people changed. Gaiety after all does not pay.

Saturday Ap 29. After breakfast I took a corricolo and drove about on busines for 2 hours. I then went in it with Barrington to the Studi which we walked all over for a farewell for ever. I believe after that I went to Ramsay who is here with Lord Charlemont, and walked with him and Caulfield in the Villa Reale. I dined with Barrington at Sir George Talbots and met Mr. and Mrs Middleton, Butera, Mr. Borell, Knudtson, Mr. Montgomery and the Marquis de **mmery. I called on Dick when coming home, and then walked down to the Crocelle but found Willoughby gone to bed.

Sunday Ap 30. I went to church with Barrington at Sir Henry Lushingtons, after which he and I and Wilton took horses and rode round by Cuma, Lake Fusaro, Mure Morto, Buia, and took a farewell to that enchanting country, the fairyland of poets, which I have so often passed through with delight. We dined at 7 at the Villa di Roma overlooking the sea, after which Barrington went to see Mr. Goodman who is ill and then went home.

Monday May 1. Today I went on business in different ways, and saw Lady Lushington and Bingham. I came home at 4 to pack up and at 6 Willoughby, Barrington and I went to dine at Sir Wm. a Courts; he and my Lady being alone, we had a very pleasant dinner and a great deal of conversation and came home about 10.

Naples May 2 May 11 1820 Rome (133)

Tuesday May 2. At 6 o'clock Barrington and I started for Terracina in my caleche which my Father left me here when he went away. We reached Molu di Gaieta about 2 and Terracina at 6, where we dined at 7 and slept in the same room (the Venezia). The guards against the Banditti are increased between Fondi and **** and Terracina; they have orders to accompany any carriage from Picquet to Picquet, and one can hardly get off from them and drive on. The country is very much improved in look by the advance of summer.

Wednesday May 3. We started for Rome about 6, over the Pontine marshes. The first three posts are between two canals with an expanse of flat swamp on each side as if made for malaria. After that some of the country is very pretty especially between Genzano and Albano till one comes on the Plain of the Campanina. We got into Rome at 4 and had to go to the custom house for our pleasure. We took rooms for tonight at the Villa di Londra. I met Gordon soon after arriving, and he shewed me some lodgings in the Piazza di Spagna which I took for tomorrow. I dined with Barrington and walked with him afterwards in the Trinita del Monte and with Stephen Croft whom we met there. Went to bed at 10 1/2.

Thursday May 4. After breakfast I walked off to St. Peters which looked more superb to me than ever. I then returned and called on Lady Powerscourt who is here, and went to the Vatican which I walked all through at least the statues and pictures. I then came home till 6 1/2 when I went to dine with Lady Powerscourt and met only Gordon. I staid there very pleasantly till 10.

Friday May 5. I went with Barrington and his friend Ford to see the funeral service of Cardinal Sitta. He lay in state in the middle of the church, and a long service was performed by Cardinal St. Gregorie with a great deal of singing. We then went over the Capitol, statues and pictures, and then Ford and I took a carriage and went to see the Villa Altieri and Albani, the latter very pretty and containing many fine statues; the former only remarkable for a labyrinth in the garden, the rest is in decay. Barrington and I dined at 6 with Tisdale and Tullamore and Lord St. Asaph in the rooms of the former.

Saturday May 6. I set out alone today lionising some palaces, and saw the galleries of the Borghese, the Sciara and the Doria. These palaces are wonderful things for a town to possess. There are so many, and all so rich in the most valuable monuments of art. I also called on the Crofts and on Baillie who are here. I dined with Tisdale, Tullamoore, Gambier and Barrington at a Tra***uer in Monte Citorio, then came home and read.

Sunday May 7. At 8 Barrington and I set off with Tisdall and Tullamoore in a caleche to Tivoli; we arrived there at about 12 to the Sibyll Inn from whence we walked about the great cascades and the Villa d'Este etc., when a violent thunderstorm and rain stopped
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us, so we came and dined. After this it had cleared up, so we took donkeys and rode round the giro of the cascatelle, past the ruins of some ancient villas; Catullus, Horaus, Varuss etc. It was a beautiful ride. We returned about dark and soon after went to bed. We were very well off in the Inn.

Monday May 8. Got up about 7. After breakfast we went to Mecenass villa and I and Tisdall went round the giro for the cascatelle again. They were much more beautiful as the day was very fine and the country quite fresh from the rain of yesterday. We started about 12 1/2 in our carriage and stopped to see the Adria** villa, a most interesting collection of ruins and forming very picturesque scenery with the different sorts of trees about them. They give one a great notion of the splendour of an imperial seat. We staid here two hours, then came on to Rome; where we arrived at 7 1/2 and dined with Gambier at this same Trattoria. I walked home with Tisdall and Gambier about 1/4 to 11 after eating an ice.

Tuesday May 9. Went to see Gambier after breakfast, then with Barringto to the Pal. Borghese. At 2 1/2 Mr. Nibbie the antiquarian called on us and we went a giro with him till 6. He lectured from the top of the Capitol and in the Forum. I was very well pleased with it and shall go through the course. We dined with Tisdale and Tullamoore at the same restauranteurs, thence went to the Caffe nuovo, after which I came home.

Wednesday May 10. I walked with Gordon this morning, saw Thorwaldsons and Finellis studios, and then alone the Barberini Palace which I liked very much. I returned for Nibbie who took us a very interesting giro near the Forum and to the Pantheon. I dined with Gordon at his lodgings and afterwards went to visit Lady Powerscourt where I sat for some time.

Thursday May 11. Got up early and wrote till breakfast. At 9 1/2 went off with Barrington and Ford to St. John of Lateran where there were great ceremonies to take place for the ascension day. The old Pope was there and was carried round the church blessing, with other mummeries. It was a fine sight when he knelt down and prayed (or was supposed to do so) in the middle of the church, with all the Cardinals behind him. Now this goes for nothing in comparison to what it must have been when the Pope was really considered infallible. We then all went out of the church to receive the blessing from the principal window in the Facade. The Pope came to this in his chair and performed the spreading of his hands very becomingly. The whole thing was too protracted perhaps to be as striking as it should, but I was not so disappointed as I expected to be. The Canopy of St. Angelo and the Band certainly gave effect, and the crowd of people on the space before the church was gay to look at.

(134) Rome May 12 May 24 1820

I then went with Ford and drove about in the Villa Borghese as the casino was not open, and we saw the model of the Colisseum in the Piazza di Spagna. Nibbie then came at 3 and took me and Barrington to the Colisseum itself and some other places within the town. At 6 1/2 or 7 Ford dined with us in my lodgings; we walked with him on the Trinita del Monte to see the Fire Flies which swarm there.

Friday May 12. Went with Barrington to see the Sciarna Palace, the galleries of which I like very much. Nibbie took us today to the Forum and Column of Trajan and the ruins of the royal Palace on the Palatine hill. We dined at home and went at 8 o'clock to Lady Westmoreland in the Palazzo Ruspiliosi, who gave a conversazioni. Knudtson made us go and introduced us to Lady Westmoreland when we got there. I would as soon have been excused. We brought home Chin Baillie about 10 1/2.

Saturday May 13. At 10 went with Baillie and Barrington, saw Mr. Gibson studio and staid a long time in the Stanze of Raphael in the Vatican, which I began to admire by looking on at them. Nibbie took us to the Baths of Caracalla, Titus and Diocletian. I dined alone at our old restaurateurs and came home at 7 1/2.

Sunday May 14, I wrote a letter to Blomfield etc., till 12, then went with Barrington to Pal. Ruspiliosi as I did this day 26 weeks or 6 months with Dr. Wilson. We then went to the Vatican pictures and statues, part of them, for a good while. I then went and heard vespers in St. Peters which were very pretty. I got brought back by Lady Powerscourt. At 7 1/2 we dined with Baillie, met the other Baillie and Knudtson and St. Asaph. We staid till 10 1/2 then walked a little out with Baillie and came home.

Monday May 15. I went after breakfast to Pal. Farnese, Pal. Spada, Braschi, and some churches. Came back for Nibbie who took us to the circus of Caracalla, Tomb of Cecilia, Nutella etc., out of the town. We returned to dine at home at 7. after which we went and had an Ice and came home for the evening.

Tuesday May 16. I went with Barrington to the French Academy in the Villa Medici, then alone to Camnuscisius, Canovas and Mr. Laboureurs studios. Then with Nibbie to the neighbourhood of St. John Lateran and the Aqueducts. Came home to dinner at 6 1/2; wrote all the evening.

Wednesday May 17. After breakfast I went to the Pantheon, the Pal Giuotiniani from whence I took a view of the Pantheon to the Pal Corsini and Farnecina. Returned just in time for Nibbie who took us to some old churches, then ***ns Sacer, Castra, Procteriana etc. We dined at home and I wrote all the evening.

Thursday May 18. We went out together to the Vatican, the part of the magazins where they keep the statues that have not as yet had
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their places assigned to them; where we met Baillie, and with him went a giro in the Trastevere. I came home to Nibbie who took us to the San Paolo funile mura and the Pyramid of C. Cestius. At 7 we dined with Mr. McGand at the Europa and met one Mr. Harwood. We came home about 10. This day 12 years I went to Eton.

Friday May 19. I went an early drive with Baillie. We started at 6 and went on the Aventine where were different small churches, and had a fine view of Rome from the top of a house near one of them. It began raining hard meanwhile, so we came home and took St. Louiss church on the way. After breakfast I went to Sta. Maria Magg the Sitte Sale, St. Pietro in vincola with M.Angelos Moses, and several other churches. Nibbie at 3 took us to the Villa Albani and Sallusts of ardins; we came home to dine. I wrote and read in the evening. I thumped my forefinger with the knocker at the Sitte Sale and shall lose the nail.

Saturday May 20. I made a giro of churches before breakfast, among them the Capuchins and the Vittoria and St. Bernards. After breakfast I went to the Poniotowsky gallery, and then with Barrington visited the Dutchess of Devonshire. The Scirocco today was extremely heavy; I never felt any weather more melting. Nibbie took us to the Capitol statues and then Theatre of Marcellus. We dined at home. In the evening at 9 or 10 we went with Baillie to see the Colyseum by moonlight. The night was not very favourable, but the view was striking. We came home by 12.

Sunday May 21. After breakfast went with Barrington to the Pal Matt** and alone to the Spada and some churches. Came home at 2 when Baillie took us to the Dovia palace, after which we went and took a very pleasant walk in the Villa Borghese till 7. This and the town were extremely gay with carriages etc., and the evening was beautiful. We dined at home late and I went to bed about 11.

Monday May 22. At 9 1/2 Baillie called for me to go to the Vatican. The library being shut, we went to see the gardens, Brumantes staircase, and we then went to the Farnesina and the Falcenieri palaces, where the custodi being engaged with others told us to come next day again. After this drive I set out on foot to walk a round of churches in the Trastevere. In the way I took the Costaguti Palace. I came home to dinner at 7. At 9 1/2 Baillie took me to call on Knudtson and the other Baillie who not being at home we went to the Colyseum again. It was a fine moonlight night, and the sight was most grand and satisfactory.

Tuesday May 23. I got up early and went a long walk to the church of San Lorenzo out of the walls, and thence Sta Croce and others. After breakfast went with Baillie to the Falconieri Palace again, which I was much pleased with in part at least. I then went with him to call on Sir. Wm. Gill who has the gout very badly. Nibbie took us for a conclusion to the statues of the Vatican and the
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inscriptions. He was not so necessary in this days work, but I liked the feature and am very glad that I have had the course altogether. We dined at home. I went out in the evening only to get an ice.

Wednesday May 24. I went a long and interesting walk about the Forum, the Capitol and the Caliun, taking in a great many churches which I had not seen. After breakfast I went with Baillie and Gandy to the Vatican library which I had not been in before. We saw some few MSS which we happened to know of, and I admired the rooms

Rome May 25 June 1 1820 (135)

as every other part of this immense Palace. Coming home we saw the academy of St. Luke, then Baillie and I went a short time to the Pal Borghese and then read the papers in a reading room about the trial and execution of Thistlewood and his gang. Barrington and I dined alone. At 9 we went with Baillie, St. Asaph and Gandy to see the statues at the Vatican by torchlight, which gave a singular and beautiful effect. We got home about 11 1/2.

Thursday May 25. I did not go out before breakfast but got up and wrote a letter. After breakfast I drove with Baillie to look after his Lacquey de Place who was put in prison last night for an irregularity while we were in the Vatican. We then went and saw the Borghese gallery through. I then came home till 6 when Baillie and I took another drive. He then came home and dined with us. In the mean while hearing of Wiltons being arrived, we went after dinner to the Europa and sat with him and Mr. Carrington for some time. Came home about 10.

Friday May 25. I walked a giro this morning by St. John Lateran and its environs seeing churches etc. After breakfast it was uncommonly hot. I never felt it so much so. I tried a little walk about 12, but I thought it better to come home and read. At 4 Barrington and I went to dine at the Dutchess of Devonshires, and met Mrs. and Miss Aire, Wilton, Marquis de Sommery, and 3 French gentlemen, one, Mr. Artaud Secretary to the Legation, one an Attache, and one other I know not. At 6 Wilton and Somery came a drive with us in the Corso and on Trinita del Monte. I came home at 8 1/2.

Saturday May 27. I got up very early and walked about from 4 1/2 till 10, seeing sights; then came in and found that Willoughby had arrived with Sheridan ; so Barrington and I went to see them at the Europa and walked with the former to Canovas studio. I then went with Barrinton to the Pal. Bracciano in pursuit of Baillie, but found him not. We however saw the Palace, then came home till 6 when we went another walk round by the Quirinal and came back to dine at home. In the evening Wilton came and sat in my room I suppose for 2 whole hours. I could not read, nor go to bed till 11.

Sunday May 28. I went out from 6 1/2 till breakfast to see churches about the Pantheon and the Quirinal. Afterwards at 11, Barrington and I went to Wiltons who read us prayers and lessons, by way of a fancy of his, which I wondered at now a days. I then went to Baillies where there was a crowd of people looking at his drawings done by Mr. Barry, an artist who travelled with him. There are some very interesting. At 4 1/2 Wilton carried Barrington and me to dine with Lady Westmorland, where we met Lord and Lady Letrim and 2 daughters, St. Asaph, Baillie and Sheridan. After dinner we went out by desire to drive in the Corso in Baillies carriage, and returned for tea to the Pal. Russighosi, but
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my Lady being not come home we came away again. Willoughby called this evening for 1/2 an hour.

Monday May 29. I went out before breakfast towards the Aventine and Celian hills seeing churches successfully enough. After breakfast I went with Barrington to see the Barberini and Colomma palaces. We dined with Wilton and Carrigham at the Europa; and drove with them after it for a good while to the Vatican on the Pincia etc.

Tuesday May 30. I went out at 1/4 to 6, and walked through the Porta del Popolo to the Ponte Malle which I passed and came home to the Vatican having taken Monte Mario on the way. This was a most pleasing spot indeed. I staid up and walked about the Villa for some time. I came home and staid in till 2 when I went to St. Peters and lionised myself through the interior and subterranean etc., which took 3 hours or more; and left me just time to come home to dine at Col. Bonars Sevneys. We met Mr. and Mrs. Crawford, Mrs. Bonars sister, Mr. Gandy, Eastlake and Baillie. Count Vallmordan came in the evening. I came away about 10 or 11 and walked a little with Baillie, but got not to bed till near 2, as I went asleep on my sofa.

Wednesday May 31. I walked out at 6 1/2 to the Chiesa Nuova and across Tiber to Sant Ouofrio. After breakfast went with Baillie and others to see the Egina marbles which are very curious and interesting from the stile in which no others have ever been found. After that Barrington, St. Asaph and I took a carriage to the Corsini Palace, which we saw. After our return Barrington and I went to dine at the Fraitturs on Monte Citorio. I then walked off through the Forum over the Aventine to the top of Monte Testaccio and the pyramid of Caius Cesticus where I found Willoughby and Sheridan whom I had seen set off for it. I walked back with them and had an ice at the Caffe Nuove. Went to bed after ten.

Thursday June 1. Today is the feast of corpus Domini, one of the greatest in the Catholic church, so at 8 we went having breakfasted, to St. Peters to see the funziones which are very grand on the occasion. There was a great procession round the cortile; first of the religious orders, about 450 monks only; and the boys of St. Michaels hospital of the Collegio Romano etc. Then came Curates and Priests, temporal and secular; prelates and monsignores; the ensigns or canopys of the 7 Basilicas with their Chapters and the Priests belonging to them; following next came Bishops then Cardinals and then the Pope, more dead than alive and worse than May 11 at San Giovannis. The group of people about him with their robes and splendid mitres made a very brilliant sight; the former part of the procession rather showed the decadence of the church from a great height, than its present glory. After the Pope came the guardia nobile and other soldiers in splendid
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uniforms. After the procession there were functions in the church, and a benediction from the altar etc., which I did not see so well. St. Peters never showed so well as with a crowd of people in it when one may estimate its dimensions from the comparison of their littleness. After this was over I went with Wilton and Willoughby to the Pal Falconieri, then came home and went with Baillie and Barrington to dine at the Traitturo on Monte Citorio. After which we and Willoughby went a drive on the Via Salaria to the site

(136) Rome June 2 June 8 Sienna

of old Fidin**, now Monte Giubilleo, we returned by 8. At 9 I went to Lady Westmorelands, which proved an uncommon bore. She was alone for 1/2 an hour and afterwards hardly anybody came that I knew. I came home before 11.

Friday June 2. I did not go out before breakfast, I only went out to see the Sciarra Palace with Baillie, in whose room I sat for some time. I came to dine at Lady Westmorelands with Barrington and Sheridan, about 4 1/2 o'clock. After dinner she took us driving to the Ponte Molle where we walked along the banks of the Tiber, after which we had another descent in a by lane near an arch called arco scuro, and had to hunt luciole or fire flies for a good hour, and a handkerchief full were taken home for her Ladyships amusement. She had all the light put out and these things put in a glass for some time, till we all were bored and went away.

Saturday June 3. I went out and walked about the Villa Borghese and saw the Casine. After breakfast I transacted some business, then went with Baillie, St. Asaph, Gandy and Mr. Adare to the Palace of the Quirinal to see it, and was repaid. Then I drove alone to the Passport office and Diocletians baths. We dined again with Lady Westmoreland and Sheridan, and drove out to the Villa Pamfili Doria which is very magnificent; we walked about here till after dark. On our return Barrington and I went to call on Lefevre and Smithwick who are come. Lady Westmoreland is very clever and eloquent, but excessively odd. We had another sight of the Aurora after dinner at the Russighisi.

Sunday June 4. I walked to the Villa Lante on the Janiculum, and the top of the castle of St. Angelo. After breakfast I called on Baillie and saw my carriage. I then staid in till 3 when Barrington and I went to dine at the Traitteurn, after which I went to the Vatican and saw the Pictures, statues and the Sistine Chapel. I then went and mused in St. Peters where I met Mr. and Mrs. Crawford, who brought me home and gave me a drive on the Pincian. About 9 we went to eat an ice with Baillie. How delightful and yet how melancholy was my walk about those dear rooms at the Vatican. After next Thursday I believe I never am to see them again; so farewell to them now.

Monday June 5. I got up before light, and at 4 set off with Baillie and Barrington to Frascati in caleche and 2 horses. We breakfasted there and saw what we had to see in it. The Villa Aldobrandini Conti etc. We then took donkies and went to the site of Tusculum where the ground is covered with pieces of stone, inscriptions and ruins. Part of the theatre is disenterred and is perfect, probably the whole would be too. There is near it a remains of a fine aqueduct and of another theatre. On the citadel there are some ruins, but we went not to them. Of course they have pitched on 2 patches of ruined wall as Ciceros Villa and his school of Philosophy, but I fear with little certainty. This spot however
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is very interesting. Returning to Frascati we got into our carriage and went through a very pretty country with a beautiful view of the campagna of Rome. 1st. to Grotta Forrata where we saw a chapel full of excellent frescos by Dominichino, particularly one of a lunatic boy cured by St. Bartolom.***. We also saw before coming there the Villa Braicianus where are some tolerable pictures. 2nd. to Marino then Castel Gandolfo from whence the view was magnificent over the lake Albano. We walked down to the Lake to see the mouth of the famous emissary cut by the Romans through the mountains at the time of the siege of Veii. It is one of the finest of their works that remains to us. We ended by coming in to the Albans through the Villa Barberini, where are the supposed remains of Domitians Alban Villa. We got very well lodged and fed at the Inn and went to bed early.

Tuesday June 6. Got up at 5 and went directly to see a fine piece of ancient construction to the Via Appia under Aricia. It extends to the length of a furlong, and is formed of immense blocks of peperine stones and rises in some parts to more than 35 feet. The causeway formed is soled with only three arches at the bottom, probably to let through the water. This work must be very ancient as it was repaired and strengthened by a bastion of the same sort of masonry which still remains. After breakfast we again started on donkies and went a beautiful giro by La Riccia to the Lake of Nemi near Cinzano, and back to the Capuchin convent of Albano and so home. An ancient emissary exists for Lake Nemi, but not so fine as the other. We had not time to go to Palazzolo the supposed site of Alba Longa, nor to the top of Mons Albanus, which last I regretted. We came to dine at Albano at 4, and then came back to Rome, where I soon after went to bed.

Wednesday June 7. I went out at 1/4 to 6 and drew the Colyseum from the top of the temple of Peace, and saw Mich. Ang. Moses again. After breakfast I went about on business for some time, and at one set off making p. p. c. visits with Barrington. At 3 we went to dine at our Traitteurs with Baillie, and came home after a walk to pack up for our journey. A most bilious business, we had it finished by nine, and at ten the carriage being come we loaded it, and at 11 set off with an adieu eternel to Rome.

Thursday June 8. The morning found us only three posts distant from Rome. We went on travelling all day without stopping or eating anything. We passed by the Lake of Bolsena where the views were beautiful. The towns were none good for much except perhaps Viterbo. Near Bolsena there were curious basaltic rocks near the road. We were at Badicofani about sunset. This was the highest point we came to, and the views about it were very extensive, but would be uncommonly bleak in winter. We went on to Sienna which we reached about 5 1/2, having been an enormous time about the 18 posts we had made. We went to the Inn of the ****** d'Inghilterra, which we found very good. We went to bed about for 4 hours, and then got up to breakfast, after having fasted strictly for 42 hours. It is much the best way in travelling.

Sienna June 9 June 18 1820 Florence (137)
Friday June 9. After breakfast we took a cicerone and went to see the Maraviglia of Sienna. The duomo is a richly ornamented gothic building, very pretty both within and without. The pavement of the choir is done in a curious sort of mosaic, forming figures in chiaro scuro by two different coloured marbles. The pillars and walls are all made with alternate layers of black and white marble. We saw two or three other churches which contained pictures of the Sienna school, and one Palace which had the most tiresome collection I ever went through; also the Sapienze or academy of St. Luc which seems a good sort of establishment. We dined at 6 and went to bed about 9. I like the look of this town very much, but would not stay at it as some people do on any account when one has Florence and Rome to go to on each side.

Saturday June 10. At 8 we started for Florence where we arrived about 4 1/2 after a slow journey through a very pretty country. We drove up to lodgings which Ford had taken for us at the casa Acciajuli, looking over the Arno. We went out to dine at a restaurateurs, and afterwards walked about and met Gambier, Wilton etc., who are here among a horrid number of English. I came in at 8 1/2 intending to dress and go to see Lady Eleanor Lindsay, who I understand is here, but I found it too late. Florence looks much prettier than I thought it last time I was here. Lady Eleanor proved afterwards not to be here.

Sunday June 11. Breakfasted at 9. Afterwards I went out, first with Barrington, and then went to find Ocheda at the Locanda della Fontana where he was in the middle of his books reading. He was delighted at seeing me, and looked very much as usual. I sat with him about an hour, after which he insisted on accompanying me home with promisses of coming to me tomorrow for a passgiata or any thing else I wish for. I dined with Barrington in the restaurateurs at 4. At 7 Wilton took us with the Flatulent tutor to the Caccino, which is a most beautiful publick drive and was full of **onde. There being introduced to Lord Normanby, he asked me to go to tea with them, where Lady Normanby, Wilton and Gambier sung. I saw Willoughby there. Afterwards Wilton, Gambier, Barrington and I went to the Ballet at the Pergola and then came home to bed.

Monday June 12. According to agreement yesterday Ocheda came and sat 3 quarters of an hour with me after breakfast. When he was gone I went to the gallery for 2 hours about. It is an admirable collection in every way, but looks poor after the Vatican. I dined with Barrington at the Restaurateurs, and at 6 went a drive with Carrighan on the Poggio Imperiale and to a spot called Bello Sguardo from its fine view of Florence. Wilton called on me at 9 with little Carlo Canning to go to the opera, where we were much amused by the boys observations.

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Tuesday June 13. Gallery for 1/2 an hour about 1. Till then I had called on the Burghershes with Barrington etc. At 2 I went to the Fontana and dined with Ocheda at his table d'hotes where were 8 other Italians who talked very well. After this at 4 I went to see the magnificent Pitti gallery. I then returned home and read till late.

Wednesday June 14. Lefevre breakfasted with us, and after that came Ocheda for some time. At 11 Wilton called and I went out with him; he took me to the Gallery after some visits, where I staid till 3. At 4 I dined with him at Schneiderfs. We then went to an exhibition which they give of horsemanship, part of which is tolerable; then a short time to the Cashins e poi home on foot.

Thursday June 15. I staid at home late writing a letter. At 1 came Willoughby with whom I went out to the Pal. Corsini, and then alone to the Gallery. At 4 I went with Gambier and Barrington to dine at Lord Burghershes and met 4 people, one an English parson, and the 3 others Italians whose names except one (Signr. Leone) I could not make out. And Mr. Aubin < Inserted >. We after went a very pleasant drive and walk in the Caccino. Came home after dark.

Friday June 16. Barrington went away this morning at 3 o'clock to Genoa, after a confederacy with me of 17 weeks and 4 days, during which time I have breakfasted with him everyday I believe. I today went to breakfast with Willoughby at the Pelican. We went together to the Gallery for till about 2, and then tried the Pitti in vain. I walked then a little with Wilton who had called on me, saw Pal. Rinardi, then dined at the restaurateurs and took a long walk to the top of Fiezole, where I saw some ancient remains of an amphitheatre etc., and a most beautiful prospect. I was chased down the hill by a boy of 8 years old in a rage at not having any money given him. I got home about 8 and Lefevre came and sat with me a long time. I went to bed at 11 1/2.

Saturday June 17. I went to the Gallery for some time and walked with Willoughby and called on Mr. Elmsley with him. At 4 I went with Wilton to dine with Lord Normanby, and met Lord and Lady Dillon. After dinner a stupid drive in the casino as usual and came home. Called on Ocheda in the morning.

Sunday June 18. Ocheda and Lefevre meeting in my room, we went together to his library, after which Lefevre and I went to church at Lord Burghershes, and heard Dr. Trevor preach a horrid sermon. We then went to the Boboli gardens, after which I dined in the restaurateurs and came home for the

(138) Florence June 19 June 25 1820

rest of the evening as there was a violent thunderstorm and rain. I wrote a long letter to Blomfield.

Monday June 19. At 12 I saw the Laurentian Library with Lefevere. At 2 Fiaravante came to read some Dante with me. At 4 Wilton and Carrighan took me to dinner at Lord Berghershes. We met Lord and Lady Dillon, Lord and Lady Normanby, Mrs. Mostyn, Mrs. Montgomery, Mr. Timple Bodwin, Sir Robt. Lawley, Gambier, Mr. Aubin, and Willoughby. After dinner the cascino, and after the cascino we went to drink tea with Lady Dillon where I saw Mr. Elmsley etc., etc.

Tuesday June 20. I had Fiaravante at 9, he is an uncommon ass. I went to the Gallery and the Physical Museum etc. At 3 I went to Wiltons and sat till dinner at 4. After which Mrs. Canning called for us and we went to see the Pal. Pitti and walked in the Boboli gardens. We then went home with her and had some tea. There we stopped till 10 1/2 most stupidly listening to Wilton and Miss Canning sing. I went home with him and read in his room the Monastery, Walter Scotts new novel, till 2, when everybody in Schneiderffs was gone to bed and I had to make my own escape, and go to bed in the dark.

Wednesday June 21. Today being the longest day of the year, I did not go out till 4 when Wilton came to take me with Carrighan to dinner at Lord Normanbys. All the morning I was reading Monastery except Fiaravantes hour and 1/2. Gambier met us at dinner. After it we went to tea at Mrs. Cannings, and went with her to the Pergola where was a bad opera, a ballet made out of the poor old Gazza Ladra, and a pretty ballet the same as before.

Thursday June 22. Fiaravante at 9, after him Ocheda for a visit. I went with Lefevre and Willoughby to see the Academy della Crusca and Ricardi library. I then walked with Gambier. At 4 1/2 I went to dine at Mr. Passerini the bankers. Lefevre and another Englishman who are en pension there dined with us, a Florentine Capitano, a Swiss Leghorn merchant, and a French Lady married to an Irishman at Malta; such was our party. I liked it and wish I was en pension in a similar way for the sake of the language. I walked after it, first with Lefevre and then without him to call on Devon and came home about 10.

Friday June 23. I went to see the church of Sta. Croce this morning. Had Fiaravante at 9. After breakfast I went to the Museum and the Academy delle Belle arti with Lefevre, and was pleased with the latter. At 4 I dined with Devon, Gambier and Mr. Moore at the Nuova York, and then went to Mrs. Cannings house in the Piazza Sta. Maria Novella to see the Chariott race which takes place there on this day. The sight was pretty from the crowd of people and the manner of clearing the course, but the race was most mean. After this Mr. Carrighan and I walked about and came at
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last to the top of my house where we had a good sight of some vile fireworks let off on the Palazzo Vecchio. Carrighan after this sat some time in my room.

Saturday June 24. Fiaravante for the last time this morning. It rained a good deal but cleared up afterwards. I walked with Ocheda, then with Lefevre, read the newspapers etc. At 4 I went again to dine with Gambier, Devon and Moore. I then came home and Carrighan fetched me to go a drive in the Corso of carriages, which come out on this and other fixed days, this being St. Giovanni. The Grand Duke was out in a magnificent equipage, the carriage having been given him by the Town of Florence on his return to it. Many other equipages were splendid. After some time the carriages were all cleared away for the horse race. This is run by 15 horses without riders decked out with ribbons and with spurs hung to their sides. The streets through which they passed are covered with gravel and benches are cut up for about 500 yards in the first part they start at the Porta al Prato near the Cascine, and run through the whole length of the town to the Porta la Croce by the Borgo Ognipante. We got places near the starting, and I thought the sight very pretty and gay. After this I went with Devon and Moore whom I met at the Bottegone to the Pergola which was illuminated and gave me a faint recollection of poor old San Carlo. Went to bed at about 12, Wilton having brought me home.

Sunday June 25. I got up at 2 1/2 having appointed a Calessina to come for me at 3. The man however came at 4 and off I set for the Apennines. We trundled along to Pelago where we arrived at about 8 1/2. This was a beautiful drive, mostly along the banks of the Arno, but I was jumbled and sleepy. At Pelago I breakfasted and then took a man and pony to Vallombrosa; a beautiful ride almost all among woods of beech, chesnut and fir. About 11 I got there and was received by a Benedictine Father who was a Frenchman and had come into Tuscany in the army at the 2nd. invasion. He now is a jolly friar and talks Italian as well as any of them. He showed me all the convent which is in a sad state of ruin. I walked about the surrounding scenery with great pleasure till 1 1/2 when they gave me some dinner and then set me off to Prato Vecchio which I reached about 6 1/4, always through beautiful country. This

Prato Vecchio June 26 July 1 1820 Florence (139)

is a very pretty little town square, and consisting all of nice looking houses but very small. I should like almost to live here for a summer in retirement, and study the manners and language of the people. I watched a match at Pallone for a good while, which carried on very much like a cricket match on a village green. The best players affecting uncommonly and bullying the others, and the village all turned out to look and applaud. I had some supper and went to a bed of fleas at 9 1/2.

Monday June 26. At a quarter to one I was on a little pony with a guide to go up Mount Falterona which is the highest point of the Appenines, and at about 7 – 8 miles from Prato. The moon was quite full and I had a delightful ride; the top I reached about 4 1/2 and had a magnificent view. I saw the gulph of Venice plain the other sea which should be visible could not be distinguished. Setting off from hence I rode along the ridge of the mountain, through a part called Giogo Scali to Camaldoli. I never enjoyed finer scenery than this. Camaldoli I reached about 10 or 11. It is more beautifully situated than Vallombrosa in my opinion. It is at the bottom of a valley with woody mountains rising on all sides but one where the view extends farther over a rich plain. I found a very good reception here. The monks gave me breakfast, dinner and supper, and an excellent bed in the Forestria. A Florentine gentleman was also there. The convent was suppressed as well as Vallombrosa in the time of the French, but has raised itself again much more effectually. A smaller retirement a mile and a half off called Sacro Eremo where the noviciates used to pass their ordeal is quite ruined. The situation of this little place is enchanting. After dinner I walked to the top of Cotozzine a point the highest in the neighbourhood, and came round down to the Sacro Eremo, then round the Valley to the Cascine of the monks, and down late to supper and to bed. Two of the monks, and particularly Padre Frilli were very civil to us; he is lodged in a nice cell with a library of his collecting, and has a good stock of information. There and Vallombrosa were Benedictines.

Tuesday June 27. At 5 I started for La Verna which I reached about 10 or 11. It stands at the top of a high Apennine overlooking the valley. Behind it is a wood of firs and beech; most romantic, the 6 mountains itself being rent and torn in an extraordinary manner as the monks say, at the death of Christ. The convent consists of 75 Franciscans, and for mendicants they entertained me uncommonly well. The Foresteria where I lodged is very large and commodious and the cook dresses their begged roba very well. This convent never was suppressed, and remains in its original state. They have a great deal to show in the way of sacred spots and reliques, as this was the favourite dwelling of St. Francis himself. I wondered about the wood for 5 hours with great pleasure, and came home at sunset, to supper and to bed.

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Wednesday June 28. With difficulty I persuaded the lazy old monks to let me out at 3 o'clock. I then went down the mountain and back to Prato Vecchio. I arrived there at 8 1/2, and got breakfast at the Locanda whose landlord is very civil and reasonable. I had great conversing again, and got a horse and man to go to Florence. The ride was very pleasant except the last part which was rather hot, and the man was agreeable. I got in at 7, and could not get into my room for an hour; neither could I get any dinner but at a pastry cooks. I went to bed at 9. Baillie I heard was come today.

Thursday June 29. This was a festa for St. Peters day, so no business to be done today. I walked about with Baillie in the Boboli gardens etc., and dined with him at the restaurateurs. After dinner we read the papers and walked about to see the Corso as last Saturday, and the horse race. After this Mr. Carrighan joined us for some time, and then Lefevre came to talk to me till near twelve.

Friday June 30. I went with Baillie after breakfast all round the Gallery as a farewell to it for good and for ever, as I suppose. I then had to settle some things for my departure, and at 2 went to dine with Ocheda in his room; after which I came home till 6 when I went to call on Wilton and Carrighan who took me to the Cascione, where we had a long drive and sit. I then walked a little with Baillie, Carrighan, and Cap. Butler, and lastly a walk by myself.

Saturday July 1. This evening having a place in the Pisa coach I was employed all day in preparing departure. Got my things packed up, and left my last directions with Lefevre about meeting me at Bologna after a while. I went at 10 to call on Ocheda with whom I went to the

(140) Leghorn July 2 July 5 1820 Lucca

Grand Dukes library, having met and being invited to it by Dobore Taki the librarian. We staid in it 2 1/2 hours. It is at the top of the Pitti Palace, divided into a great number of little rooms, and contains a fine collection of the handsome modern publications on every subject. The Grand Duke himself came and talked to us for two or three minutes. I then took leave of the poor little man, perhaps for life. At 4 I went to dine with Wilton and Carrighan, and at 6 took leave of them for at least a year or two I suppose. At 7 Baillie walked with me down to the Post where I had taken my place in the Di****enza, but they put me off till nine, so I returned and sat with him till then, when I said farewell to him also, but for a shorter time. At 10 I started for Leghorn in the Pisa courier caleche with one more French Leghorn merchant, comfortable enough we were.

Sunday July 2. At 7 about we reached Pisa; but without stopping much we went on and got to Leghorn at 9. Here I took a lacquay de place and set about the lions after breakfasting in a caffe. There were four bronze slaves round a statue of Grand Duke Ferdinand by John of Bologna. They disappointed me rather. A fine Jewish synagogue among the other places of worship as all religions and sects are tolerated here except Ma*****ets. I went to the English church where a certain Mr. Hall preached worse almost than Dr. Trevor. The Quarantine establishment is magnificent. I went over the Lazaretto of San Rocco where the store houses and the apartments of the temporary prisoners are on a very fine scale. The Port seems excellent, full of merchantmen of all nations, and only one man of war (an American). The English burying ground is very pretty. I observed in it Horners and Lord Guildfords monument who both died at Pisa. The town altogether looks the most flourishing I have seen in Italy. I dined at a very good trattoria, and set off in a coach for Pisa with two other men and a woman with a child, quite a new stile of travelling. I found it not the least pleasant, for the common people here are much more conversible than ours. I got to Pisa to the Inn of the tre donsette on the Lung Arno. This is a very fine town, but dreadfully empty of people except near the river where they were walking as a festa evening. This part tho' beautiful is far inferior to Florence in my opinion. I walked about and went to the Duomo and Campanile for a short time. This tower I remember wishing to see from Mlle. Mullers description. I came home at 8 1/2.

Monday July 3. I went out at 6 to the Duomo and its appurtances, and spent a long time in the Campo Sarto which is very interesting from its collection of ancient pictures on the walls. The Baptistery is also a fine building in its way. I came home to breakfast and then wrote a letter till 12 when I went out till dinner at 3 and took a view of the Duomo etc., after dinner. I went to see the Giardins dei Semplice, and came home at sunset.

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Tuesday July 4. At 2 I set off in a calessina from Pisa for Lucca, which I reached in 3 hours. Here by the tyranny of this little government, I had to take post horses to Lucca baths for the benefit of the Post master. I had a beautiful drive of it along a valley between two high ridges of hills, and in two hours was at the Baths. This valley Eustace describes with two curious bridges of which one is now washed down. The Baths are in two divisions; the most considerable of which is Bagni alla Villa where in a locanda I found Sheridan lodged; when I arrived he was in bed, so I walked out and bathed in the little river higher up, and came to breakfast with him at 11. After this we got ponies and took a beautiful ride about the hills near the town. It would be a very pleasant habitation for a month or two for one who had a family or nothing to do, but otherwise an unprofitable place enough. Lady Ellenborough, the Bushbys, and several other English are there. I dined at Traitteurs and set off back to Lucca about 4 1/2. There I finished the Sun by a walk all round the walls, and to the duomo. The former are in better repair than any in this part of Italy I think. The Duomo is handsome and is like all the other churches here and at Pisa in the Gothic stile of the Pisan cathedral and on the same exterior plan. True the Pelicano moderated.

Wednesday July 5. I started in my calessina for Carrara at 7 o'clock. Baited two hours at Pietra Santa and came on through Massa. The latter part was through very pretty country at Carrara. I took a guide and went to the quarries. Three of these are the most remarkable but the mountains in their neighbourhood are covered with others of white black and veined marbles. I admired these from association I suppose more than from their appearance, for in extent they make less show than I should have expected. They have an look of inexhaustibility very comfortable for the arts. I also had a horrid walk or crawl through a grotto of stalactites in the heart

Carrara July 6 July 11 1820 Genoa (141)

of one of the mountains which branches about in it without limit in all directions, better fun for friend Peacock or other Geologists than me who knocked my head and knees most bitterly. In Carrara there is an Academy of the fine arts, handsomely provided with gesso models etc., and several small studios of artists. The Inn was the worst thing there, dirty, chousing, and ill provided. It rained a good deal in the evening.

Thursday July 6. Set off at 3, first to Sarzana where I changed my calessina. The new man took me to Spezia and there delivered me over to a returning Genoese muleteer. I did not care how like a parcel I was, so as I might be rightly delivered at last. This man took me to Sestri baiting at Burghetti. The country in parts very fine indeed. I got into a good locanda enough at 9 1/2 o'clock.

Friday July 7. Started at 4 1/2 for Genoa where I arrived about 5 1/2. It rained a good deal in the day, and all the evening; but the views on the road were still very fine. I must say tho' not so magnificent as what I have been told of them always. At Genoa I went to the Hotel de Londres which stands near the harbour. What I saw of this through the rain was very grand; the town looks uncommonly dirty now, and the streets horridly narrow but with apparently good shops.

Saturday July 8. I got up early and went a walk about the town, which today I have a much more favourable opinion of, seeing it in fine weather. I breakfasted in the publick room and was out walking almost all day, and in a reading room. The churches are very rich. At 3 I dined at a tavola rotonda with 8 others, among them Cap. Mrs. and Miss Pearson, Lord Colchester and his son Albert who was at Blomfields here but went away tonight. I saw them for some time after dinner, and in the evening went and had a magnificent view from the top of the Cariguano church.

Sunday July 9. I went to see some churches before breakfast. Afterwards I wrote a letter and saw Palaces Serra and Brignoli rosso. The former has no pictures, but a beautiful salone which being covered with mirrors, has its extent magnified in an extraordinary manner; the latter has a beautiful and extensive collection of pictures, which would make a great figure even at Rome. The Vandykes there are very fine; he was here for 2 years painting. After this I took a long walk up the hill behind the town, and had a splendid view of it below me. I came down to dinner where were Cap. Pearson etc., and a French gentleman. After dinner I walked towards the new mole and went to the top of the light house whence is one of the stated views of Genoa and a very fine one. I came home about 7 1/2.

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Monday July 10. I went before breakfast to see some churches among Santo Stephano with a famous picture of Raphael and Julio Rom together, given to Genoa by Leo X. I breakfasted with an Irish gentleman just arrived. Afterwards I saw the Pal Marellone Durrozze where many of the finest pictures are sold. Many still remain, enough to make a very fine collection especially the superb Paol Veronese of Magdalene at Jesuss feet. I saw also the Pal Balbi etc., and came home to dinner. Ten people at table. After dinner I saw the Pal Marcellina Durazzo very handsome and with a fine gallery of paintings, but partly dismantled as the rest. I went then to the Conservatorio della Fierchine where at the door I met a little gentleman who made acquaintance with me, and with him I walked about and visited a family of Swiss with him; he being a Swiss born at Genoa. He walked home with me, having taken me also into the garden of Durazzo on the Terbino. I had been to see the great hospital before I met him, which is a fine institution and well kept up; room for 3000 beds in case of necessity. It is not so good as that of Milan perhaps. I came home at 9 1/2. Mr. Mayr is my new friends name, a nice clean little old gentleman.

Tuesday July 11. I went to see the Albergo de Povri this morning. It is a fine thing, but very dirtily kept. After breakfast I went to the arsenal with Capn. Pearson and saw a frigate commanded by Cap. Wright, an English officer etc. At 12 I met Mr. Mayr in the Porto Franco where he is established as a merchant all the morning. This place has more commercial activity than I thought existed in Genoa. At 2 I went with the Pearsons to see that foolish sacred Catina at the Cathedral which I have no doubt is glass instead of emeralds. We staid there some time. After dinner Mr. Mayr called on me and we went to see the Fierchine

(142) Genoa July 12 July 17 1820 Parma

where I bought some artificial flowers, and payed another visit to Mrs. Fi***, who also went with me to choose the flowers. Came home at 9 1/2.

Wednesday July 12. I went to see the Pal Pallavicino before breakfast. This has a fine collection, but not so fine as the Brignole. After breakfast I went with Capn. Pearson and Capn. Wright who conducted us on board a large Genovese ship out in the Port. It was a fine frigate with 60 guns in beautiful order apparently, and much cleaner than I should have expected. Capn. Wright having procured us the order Capn. Pearson and I went on ponys after dinner upon the exterior fortifications of the town, from which we had occasionally beautiful views. We came down the other side and went to the light house, and then home about 8 1/2.

Thursday July 13. I had taken my place in a Vettura yesterday, and today at 6 1/2 I started in company with two priests and a mercantile gentleman. The road only goes to Bassalo, so there I got out and took a horse through Chiavari to Sestri. Here I arrived about 2, which was too late to set off towards Parma, so I was employed in making my bargain which I could not bring about without going to the Sindice to make them give me a mule for a prezzo discreto. Even so cheated I was, as usual. I dined at the Albergo della Gran Britania outside the town; after which I went and bathed under the rocks, and there took leave for good of the Mediterranean for ever, as far as my present prospects go.

Friday July 14. At 1 1/2 o'clock I started with mule and guide for the mountain road to Parma. I went 40 miles today to a place called Le Giarre having baited at Borgo Val di Taro. Most part of the day the road lay down to the course of the Taro which I must have crossed 15 or 20 times. It showed all the varieties of scenery that accompany torrents; before reaching it we went over mountains where at the confines of Genoa and Parma my little Valisina was searched for half an hour before we got to the Inn. We were in a most violent storm of rain; I seldom have seen any more heavy. This Inn was an isolated house where none but muleteers ever slept I fancy, except once or twice a year. I had a supper of eggs and cheese, and having sat in the circle round the fire for about an hour drying myself, I went to bed.

Saturday July 15. At 3 o'clock I left this superb osterice and went for about 14 more miles along the Taro, which I crossed about a dozen times. It was all cut up by the rain of yesterday, which had swollen it very much apparently; but it was again subsided. At Aqua Biancha we stopped, and there my muleteer chose to give me a place in a return carriage which we met, and himself to go back. So I underwent the most disgusting operation of sitting with him here, which always gives me a bit of bile at their attempts and usual success in cheating one, and went on at a foots pace with one of the horses stone lame to Parma which I reached at 12 1/2.
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I dressed as well as I could with my remains of clean robes, dined at 3 and then went to the Accademia, and the old Theatre of Aleotto and not Vignola. In the Gallery of the Academy are four famous Corregios which are beautiful pictures indeed this I must say I have seen others that have given me greater pleasure. The grace of his Attitudes is the most striking thing, but it almost amounts to affectation. I this evening also went to the Duomo and other churches, took a walk round the walls and came home. I am disgusted at the humbug and officiousness of the waiters at the great Inns. I never saw more than here tho' the Inn is not so very good it is the post, and full of fleas from the horses I suppose. I remember this place and Inn as well from last October when we were all here together that it makes me rather onked to feel alone now; then I sometimes wished to be so. But the only solitude that is disagreeable is among numbers in a large town. The solitude of the Apennines and such places as last nights habitation is a pleasure to me.

Sunday July 16. Before breakfast I went to the Duomo and San Giovanni with the beautiful Corregio domes, which however are so damaged that I can hardly distinguish any thing from below. In the former I mounted up and saw it close to much greater advantage. After breakfast I went to the Academy again, and once more after dinner liking the Correggio more each time. I saw several other pretty churches, but above all the rooms of Correggio in the suppressed convent of San Paolo and of Agostino Caracci in the Ducal palace, both of which are perfect in their stile. This day was very hot but did not hurt me altho' out all the time. I came home at 7, went to bed at 10 1/2.

Monday July 17. I had made a bargain yesterday for a Calessina today, so at 3 o'clock off I set with my Vitturino by my side for Bologna. At Reggio he consigned me over to another more black-

Bologna July 18 July 23 1820 (143)

guard than himself who was returning to Modena. I got into an immense rage at Reggio at having to wait there 2 hours till this brute was ready. This town is a neat one but has nothing to shew but one church with a dirty Guerino in it. My 2nd sediola brought me to Modena by 12 1/2 where I dined at a traitteurs and giroed the town till 4 1/2. The only object in it is the Dukes Palace, where are the remains of a grand collection of pictures, some the kings of Poland bought some have been hid and retained at Paris, but there remains one room or two full of very fine things. The Palace is very handsome outside and in. The present Duke is furnishing it afresh. I saw several churches, but they are nothing osservabile. The beauty of the place is in the neatness of its houses and its broad streets and piazzas which it seems remarkable for among all Italian towns. My driver here turned me over again to my advantage into a return gentlemans carriage with two others Modenese in it, in which I came handsomely on to Bologna and put up at the San Marco finding Lefevre neither in that nor the Pellegrino. I suppose he will appear tomorrow.

July 18 Tuesday. I did not go out before breakfast except just to look at the piazza and Jean de Boulognes Neptune, which I admire very much. After breakfast I did some business and staid a long time in the Academy delle Belle arti; the Gallery there I like as much as any I know for its extent. I dined at 3 and after it went to the Sanpieri palaces where only some fine frescoes remain on the ceilings, and I took a walk along the walls for a good distance. Then at 8 went out to the opera and heard the cenerutola some of which was beautiful, tho' the music was not too good.

Wednesday July 19. After breakfast I went again to the Academy, the Pal Tanaro, Aldobrandi and divers churches, though it was very hot walking. The Sun was more powerful than ever I remember feeling it, but Bologna is a good place to be in as the streets are all flanked by arcades which shade it off at all times of the day. When I returned to dinner I found Lefevre come and to my great joy without a carriage, but by vetturino. We dined together and afterwards went to the Palazzo Lambeccari, and then to the top of the highest of the two inclined towers from whence we saw a beautiful sunset, and a fine view of the town and country. We then came home and I wrote a letter to my Mother. Went to bed about 12.

Thursday July 20. We went out with a Lacquey de Place this morning to see the remarkable churches which amount to about 8, and are the next I think to Roman churches in magnificence. After breakfast we went to the Academy and dined at 2. At 3 we took a carriage, and with a French physician, a Mr. Valentin whom Lefevre knows, we went to the Certosa burying ground out of the town, which is a stupid and ill done thing enough; I admired it last time I remember. We then came back to the publick promenade which is very poor for a place like this; after walking and driving there a
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little we came home.

Friday July 21. This French Doctor proved an uncommon bore today. He took this morning to the Hospital where he pottered on and kept us for hours. After that to the Professor Narazain of Natural History who went with us all over the Institute, which took a long time with Valentins nonsense. We ended with the Dear Academy which he thought fort bien. He dined with us at 3, after which we went out but parted company with him. At 8 we went together to the Comtesse Malvezzi where we saw Mazzofanti whom we had also seen in the morning. We spoke with him a good deal, and very pleasant and clever he seems. I liked the party, we left it at about 10.

Saturday July 22. We set out with the lacquey before breakfast to San Michele in Monte for a fine view of Bologna. Here are some Francias chiefly, and a cloister now spoilt where all the Caraccis had worked. We saw the Mareschalli palace also. After breakfast I went alone to Signr. Rossis house where a lot of pictures is to be sold and among them a most beautiful Correggio of St. Catherines marriage; vid Oct 29 1819. We then went to the Tanaro Sanpieri palaces after dinner. At 7 Mazzofanti honored us with a long visit and was very courteous; he is an extraordinary man, but perhaps not so much so in other respects than language as one expected. After him we had the disgusting packing to undergo till bed time.

Sunday July 23. According to arrangement the coachman, the French Doctor, and we, were prepared for starting at 3 1/2 or 4 for Ferrara or farther if possible. The day was cool enough and we got to Ferrara

(144) Rovigo July 24 July 28 1820 Venice

in good time after breakfasting at half way; here we staid 4 hours and saw the Cathedral and one or two other churches, not good for anything but to show a little of their school of painting, and the Library whare are Taps and Ariostos manuscripts and relicks. This is one of the desolate towns of Italy, with one good street not unlike Parma or rather Placentia. We went on and crossed the Po at Ponte Lago Negro, where I had to recross for my passport to be signed. We were here visited by the Custom house and with great trouble got the vetturino to go on to Rovigo to sleep 52 miles from Bologna, 22 from Ferrara. The country between Bologna and Ferrara was almost all marsh. We arrived late, had supper, and went to bed.

Monday July 24. We started at 3 and reached Padua 25 miles at 10 1/2. Here we stopped 4 hours and meanwhile breakfasted. I liked the place much. Three of the churches are very fine, Sta. Gisestina plain generally but exterior and filled with richly ornamented shrines in the chapels; St. Anthony of Paduas church makes a fine shew of cupolas etc., outside, as is the stile of these churches. Inside the chapels are very rich and loaded with devout offerings. I never saw a church so full of tombs and tasteless ornaments, but it looks well in its way. The Cathedral is good but plain. We saw the famous hall of audience, the largest room perhaps in Europe, if not smaller than Westminster Hall about 330 ft by 110, but it is ill kept and the angles are not equal. We went on in the carriage to Fucina where we embarked for five miles in a gondola to Venice. The road for many miles was flanked with gay country houses, and gave a great idea of former mercantile prosperity. At Venice I was surprised much beyond my expectations at the appearance of this daughter of the Ocean tho' we saw it to disadvantage in a stormy coming. We put up and had dinner at the Scudo di Francia.

Tuesday July 25. Unpacked etc., before breakfast; after it went to the Piazza San Marco with Dr. Valentin and Lefevre. This made a coup d'oeuil equal to any thing I ever saw, and much superior to what I expected. The Frenchman said it was nothing to the Palais Royal. The church of St. Mark is also most curious, all inlaid with old mosaic rather venerable than handsome except on the Facade where the horses of St. Mark pass above the great archway. We took a general view of all this magnificence, and then parting from the Dr. we went to the Police and delivered some letters etc. After dinner we gondolised about to some churches which are generally very handsome. We came home to go to a comedy with Valentin. Did not go to bed till 1 1/2.

Wednesday July 26. We went out at 8 1/2 to the Ducal Palace near St. Marks. This really must have been a magnificent residence; it bears all the signs of the former Venetian grandeur. So many rooms painted superbly, and all on subjects of the victories and wars of the State. The most remarkable thing by far is the Sala del gran
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consiglio, which is beyond anything I ever saw. The Paul Veroneses please me most. After this we passed some time with Missiaglia the book seller and then came home to dinner with the Dr. Valentin. After it we went out to see churches and try to gondolise ourselves with small success as yet. We went to Piazza San Marco about sunset and made acquaintance at a caffe with Conte Grinaldi a letter friend of Lefevre. Came home at 9, went to bed about 12.

Thursday July 27. Overslept ourselves till 9 most miserably. Went after breakfast to an institution of Armenians in the island of St. Lazarus, which is intended for instructing their countrymen in Asia with the lights of Europe. It is under the discipline of St. Antonio. The institution pleased me very much, and we were very well received by one of the Dottori who talked Italian, and we bought several books printed by them. At 2 o'clock I had a German master to begin a little before going into their country. Dined at 4 and went to the Palazzo Monfrizi and St. Mark afterwards. When I returned I began a letter to my Mother on the subject of having altered my plans, and intending to take in Vienna and Dresden instead of Holland. I had written from Florence for permission and had obtained it to stop and learn German at Dresden, but that I shall not do I think.

Friday July 28. I went out early to see St. Rocco and the Schola St. Rocco, or a large room where now merchants assemble painted by Tintoretto. I admired some of the pieces extremely. Venice has several of these buildings; for what purpose they were first intended I do not know. I also saw Sta. Maria Gloriosa where Titian was buried.

Venice July 29 Aug 1 1820 Verona (145)

After this I met Lefevre and breakfasted with him at Florians caffe, and then ascended the tower of St. Mark from whence we had a fine view of that part of the town. This tower is mounted by an inclined plain which I reckoned was a quarter of a miles walk. After this we saw the Academia delle Belle Arti, which like that at Bologna contains the church pictures which were removed and then recovered from the French. Titians chef d'oeuvre is there, which was but lately discovered to be so magnificent by a cleaning, and many other superb Venetian pictures. We came home to German master, then to dinner. After it we went to the Piazza first, and then to a very pretty publick garden called del Lido, at the extremity of the town. Came home by moonlight in our gondola.

Saturday July 29. We breakfasted early and at 5 set off in our gondola to see an immense breakwater built across the entrance of the Lagune to secure the Vessels about Venice. It is a fine work as being 13 miles long, but the Plymouth breakwater is more extraordinary as far as it goes, being built in deep water; whereas this was raised upon a long sand bank. We then went to the Naval Arsenal which is the finest thing of the kind I have seen out of England. It is fitted for receiving galleys, but there are now none of them, and the navy consists of three 74 in ordinary, two unfinished, one three decker unfinished and 4 or 5 frigates. These were all french production. The Rivoli was once of their number. The store houses and above all the rope house were on a grand scale, mostly built by Palladio. We went over one of the 74s, which was dirty but the decks were very high. We dined today at a traitteurs, as our Inn eating is very bad, and came home to our German master who was however gone away again as we were too late. We therefore went at 5 and took a walk on the other side of the great canal. Having separated I went alone to the Academy again, and came home about dark to Lefevre who I found as well as myself had lost his way many times. It is the most difficult town I know.

Sunday July 30. Went out at 10 1/2 saw Pal Barberigo, divers churches and the Ducal palace again. Dined at home at 3, and afterwards prepared for our departure. The outside of the Palace I admire very much; the inside is good for nothing, and not worth looking at for what pictures they had are spoilt. In other respects Venice far surpasses my expectations, and is as well worth seeing as any place in Italy. At 8 we went on board a corriera or large couriers boat to Padua; it carries almost 20 passengers, and goes up the Brenta in the night and reaches Padua at 6 in the morning. I was very much amused with the novelty of the thing. We each of us had a seat round a large cabin where one might talk or sleep. The former I did more than the latter and was consequently rather jaded before morning. We met Grinaldi in it also; our recommended friend.

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Monday July 31. We found ourselves at Padua where we set about buying a carriage with the assistance of Grinaldi. A most bilious 3 hours it was making a bargain for that, for the chain to tie on the trunks, and adjusting all belonging to it in a broiling hot day. However we got through it and started post to Verona, through Vicenza about 1 o'clock. At Vicenza we stopped 2 hours to dine and see Palladios buildings. The famous Olympic Amphitheatre I admired very much. The ornaments were the richest almost I ever saw without being overloaded, and very classical. Other buildings also of his designing were superior in their way to any I know in the Grecian stile, at least in Italy. We came on to Verona and reached it about 12 o'clock, put up at a very good Inn, le duc Torri.

Tuesday Aug 1. Got up late as might be expected. After breakfast had a lacquey de place, saw the Amphitheatre and a Pal of Comt Garzola, chiefly remarkable for some extraordinary petrifactions of fish, the largest and most perfect I ever saw; they come from a neighbouring mountain. The Amphitheatre is almost complete, tho' the seats are mostly replaced of late years and constantly kept mortered up to keep the water from the shops which have been made below. This takes away much of its ancient and reverent appearance, but it is the most perfect specimens of the kind. We stopped some time at a booksellers and then came to dinner. After it a Professor Zamboni came in to take us to a Lady in the country whom Lefevre had a letter to. She and her husband had a very pretty villegintura where they farmed fed silk worms etc., and I enjoyed my drive very much.

(146) Verona Aug 2 Aug 6 1820 Salo

Wednesday Aug 2. I made a plan for myself to go over and see Mantua, and started in consequence of it at 4 1/2 o'clock this morning in a single seated corricolo, with a man standing behind me. I went rather to try this mode of travelling than for any particular interest in seeing Mantua. It is at the distance of 26 miles from Verona; with a bait for an hour we arrived there at 9 1/2. The intermediate country is partly rich arable and pasture land, but towards Mantua is marshy and almost stinking. The town itself is in the middle of a Laguna formed by the Mincius, which renders it the most unhealthy place that can be conceived; but it makes a very strong fortress and in consequence of that has many times had the advantage of being sacked. I entered it over a long causeway that divides the lake. It is a handsome town but thinly inhabited as might be expected in the summer especially. The chief interest is from Julio Romano who retired here and founded their school of painting. The Palace called del Te from its form, was entirely his work and in it are his chefs d'oeuvres in frescoes. I admired the Sala de Giganti very much, altho' the Raphaellic school I think fails grossly sometimes in drawing and always in colour. The boldness of composition and the expression of countenance I admire most in their fine works, but beyond that I do not think they ever went. The day was the hottest they had had at Montua and I think that I ever felt; yet I walked about very hard all day at Mantua and was driving on the road in the middle of it. At Mantua I saw the Palace in the town also which deserves the trouble, tho' more than half is dismembered; 2 fine churches, the Duomo and St. Andrews, and an interesting series of Academical rooms, with an original bust of Virgil among them which has a curious history of its own (see Eustace). I dined in a Trattoria and started again at 3 1/2 and came back to Verona about in the same time I went. Wrote a little and went to bed at 12.

Thursday Aug 3. At 9 1/2 we started sightseeing in a carriage. This town has not much to shew after the amphitheatre. We saw one small picture gallery and divers churches which are not a good point here. I was amused by a figure of St. Teno** just like a smiling O*****citan Idol of the largest dimensions, which is the great protector of the town. Near his church was buried the famous King Pepin. We went to the gardens of the Giusti family, where is a fine view of the town; and we paid 2 visits before and after dinner to Professor Antonio Zamboni who is at the head of the Liceo or publick school here, and tho' deaf is a most agreeable and gentlemanlike man.

Friday Aug 4. At 6 we went off in our carriage to Affi, a small place between the Adgi and the Lake di Garda where is the Villigiatura of a Veronese family to whom the Professor gave us a letter; Signor Persico the Podesta of Verona was the principal of it, and in the house was staying a Contessa Masconi to whom Lefevre had a letter as well as to her sister the Comtess Scopoli whom we saw on Tuesday. The family we found an immense assemblage, which
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had retired during the heat from the town. There was his father, Comt Luigi Persico and mother, the former 84 years old; an uncle and aunt with a daughter. Comt Persico who was 70 and had always lived in Germany, Don Gaetano Persico of 80 years a priest, Contessa Clarina Marsoni and Theresina her daughter, there as guests, Marchese Pindmonte a painter and a musician etc., etc. They received us uncommonly civilly and well. The stile of things was very like the country houses in England. The ladies working, the men playing at chess, billiards etc., as it was too hot to go out before dinner. We also had some music and dancing, and looked over a silk Filanda which is here established by him. We dined at 2 1/2 and after it three carriages were provided to take a drive to the lake where we were to make a tour. I went in a little caleche with the old Countess, the others were divided between the two other carriages. We went thus to a little town called Bardolino where they introduced us to a family of an old Marchese Gianfilippi and left us there to sleep and set off on the lake next morning. The party here was the old Marquisas a valetudinarian in dressing gown and nightcap, deaf and nearly mad about his nobility; his wife and daughter Paolina and Sign. Bianchi the Commissario for the district. The latter took us a walk till supper, after which we went to rest in one bed between us which I suppose is usual here. These people are very civil and hospitable as well as our Affi friends.

Saturday Aug 5. At 4 1/2 we started on the lake in a boat with four rowers; the boat was certainly the most primitive I ever saw, and for that reason we made them leave their sail behind as we had been advised. The day proved cool and pleasant, and we had a beautiful row first to the promontory of Sirnio hallowed by Catullus, where we breakfasted a little, and went about to see the antiquities which of course are all referred to Catullus, by the cicerones who appear to fancy him rather a brigand chief than a poet. For the principal part of these remains consists in the ruins of some castle in the lowest Gothic stile. We then went to the Isola Lecchi where I bathed in the lake, and from thence to Salo where we arrived at 3. Here we dined and walked about till nearly dark, then I learnt some German and went to bed at 11.

Sunday Aug 6. At 5 we again embarked, and went a beautiful row up the lake to Riva which is at the other end. We stopped at Toscolano to see a paper manufactory then took a

Riva Aug 7 Aug 10 1820 Brixen (147)

little carriage and went on to Gargnano, taking in our way a look at a large palace finely situated on the lake belonging to a Brescia nobleman. The boat could not advance all this time as there was too strong a wind down the lake, so we stopped at Garggriano 4 or 5 hours, dined there and had to carry the landlords bill before the police, but without success in diminishing. At 4 we got into the boat and did not reach Riva till 10 o'clock. This end of the lake is magnificent and far superior to the other; the mountains on each side are immense rocks that rise almost perpendicularly from the water. At Riva there is a Raphael to see, but we were too late. We got a good Inn enough to sleep at.

Monday Aug 7. We started at 4 for Bardolino and rowed on till 3 before reaching it, having stopped but about one hour to rest the men. They were good sort of people, very civil and talkative, but only complained today of not having the sail as the wind was fair. They sung very pretty gleas as they rowed, like those of Lago Maggiore, Oct 10 last year. It was hot work for them today. We went to our Bardolino friends whom we sat with for half an hour, and then drove off to Affi in Persicos sedia which he sent for us. We found that they had finished dinner, but they received us in a most gentlemanlike and kind manner, and gave us dinner alone. After this we walked about till dark, and amused ourselves with a swing and with seeing an engine worked to duck all the girls of the silk spinning house, and us too indeed, on the pretence of watering the grass. Afterwards we assembled in the drawing, some to play at cards, at chess, to work or talk. I was altogether delighted with the stile of life as not knowing that it existed out of England. But this family as far as we saw it knows the art of entertaining and finding resources for guests better than any I know at home. The party was increased by a fat Austrian of Mantua and his wife, the daughter of the 2nd old Persico.

Tuesday Aug 8. At 7 we had post horses and set off for Trent. We passed the Adige and then kept along its banks all the way; the country was rich and beautiful, as the river made its way through a protracted defile of high mountains. At Roveredo we stopped and saw a fine establishment for silk winding with the assistance of steam to heat the different calderaja; about 160 girls were employed. Roveredo itself is a nice town. We arrived at 5 to the Europa at Trent where they still talk Italian. The Inn was good and the town generally pretty, but it had nothing to shew. The Cathedral is handsome, but the church of the Council of Trent is not worth looking at. We here found again wooden floors and staircases which in a hot and dirty country are decidedly inferior to stone or brick.

Wednesday Aug 9. Started at 6 1/2 for Brixen. They drove us extremely slow, or there was some other cause of delay for we did not get in till 11 o'clock. We stopped two hours at Botzen to dine; both the Inns were very good. The country was charming all
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day. We still followed the course marked by the Adige whose character was changed into that of a violent mountain torrent. About Botzen Italian language left us, and as neither of us could speak a word of German, we felt rather in the basket. However, we met with people at the Inns who could talk Italian. The dress of the peasants was very striking; that of the men was particularly picturesque, exactly what I had expected from Prints of it that I have seen. They appear and are much honester and accomodating to strangers than the Italians. In short if I could talk German I should like to live a fortnight among them.

Thursday Aug 10. We slept rather late this morning, and at 8 started for Innsbruck. The days journey is very short, but we could not get into the Inn **** ********* ******* till near twelve o'clock. 6 posts altogether, or about 50 miles. I liked the country better than yesterday. It was softened down into the most flourishing and smiling rural scenes; cornfields with the wheat in sheafs, vineyards, and meadows in their greatest perfection below, and above, mountains covered with firs with small green openings among them, and picturesque farm houses and villages scattered over the view. We still followed the course of a stream which foamed down the valley as far as Prenner where being at the top of the pass we began to descend. There we dined at a small clean Inn. At Steinach we had to wait two hours for horses, and when we did get them we had a post who was sleeping almost all the way, as they are allowed to sit on the dickey. At last he lost the reins while going down a hill and jumped off to get them; so we went full trot down with the horses having their own way about it till they luckily stopped before

(148) Innsbruck Aug 11 Aug 16 1820 Munich

we reached the very steep part. It was an extraordinary escape of an overturn.

Friday Aug 11. A very nice Inn and an excelent breakfast at 8 1/2. Finding our carriage wanted repair we determined to wait till the evening and went out with a lacquey de place, the Cathedral a pretty church and uncommonly light. In the church of the Franciscans is the tomb of Maximilian the 1st., with a set of curious bas reliefs round it of the history of his life; and round the curch stand 28 bronze figures of divers worthers very well made. We went out of the town to a little hill to get a view of it and of the mountains near it. After this we came home till dinner. Then after it at 4 o'clock set off towards Munich. The day was very hot and more oppressively so than I have found it in Italy. We went three stages intending to sleep at the end of them, but there we thought better to go on to our journeys end. The country that we passed was all very beautiful, tho' I slept through a good part of the night and lost the greatest part.

Saturday Aug 12. Early in the morning we passed from Tyrol into Bavaria; about 3 we reached Munich and put up at the Cervo d'oro. The country was very like parts of England; flat and covered with wood or rich cultivated land of all sorts; the villages extremely neat and clean, and the whole in short appearing to flourish to the utmost. The costumes are extraordinary but not so pretty as the Tyrolese. The people themselves, both men and women, are the ugliest race I ever saw. Munich is a fine clean town, and the Inn very good. After dinner we went to see the Cathedral which is decidedly fine tho' very plain. I liked very much an old Mausoleum in the choir of Lewis IV emperor composed of bronze and black marble, and very striking in its effects. The same kind of work as the bronze figures at Innsbruck. We went to a stupid performance of monkies in a little theatre, then came home and played a game or two of billiards.

Sunday Aug 13. After breakfast we went out with a lacquey de place to the bankers to Professor Thirschs of oriental languages to whom Lefevre had a letter, and to Mr. Taylor the English minister. The former was very stinking, the latter very gentlemanlike but rather reserved. We also saw the Parade with an excellent military band. The church of St. Theatin is very fine in its way; imposing on the exterior, but not so much so as the Cathedral; in the inside it is very large and ornamented richly with white stucco highly wrought quanto mai. We dined at a very good table d'hotes in the Inn and afterwards went out with Mr. Thirsch to see Professor Schlichtigrol. We went to the new Theatre of Tragedy, which I was delighted at from its size, decorations, scenery, stile of acting and orchestra in which points it ranks certainly next to Naples and perhaps Milan, anyway all that I have seen abroad. We staid one act and a half, about, and came away as not understanding their language it was not worth while to stay.
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Monday Aug 14. After breakfast we went to see part of the royal Palace where are some very rich apartments, and a great number of them. We did not see the best part of it today tho'. Then to the Gallery where are a suit of rooms magnificently filled with pictures and forming one of the finest establishments I have ever seen. I had not time to examine them, but of course the Rubens formed the most striking part, and then the Vandykes, Murillos etc., came very thick. At 4 we went to dine with Mr. Taylor and his secretary Mr. Barnard one of the brothers who were at Eton. We came away at 6 1/2 and remained at home the rest of the evening.

Tuesday Aug 15. Professor Thirsh having introduced us to Mr Schligtignoll another ****ant here he at ten o'clock shewed us part of the academy of sciences where he presides I believe. It is not an ancient establishment , but the natural history cabinet in six years has risen to a great extent, and the Physical department seemed excellent. The Library is famous all over Europe. I believe the 2nd. in numbers after Paris; they call it 300,000 volumes. The librarian shewed us all his curiosities very completely; these chiefly spring from the suppression of all the convents in 1802. There were some beautiful specimens of illuminations in miniature, of old bindings, of papyrus books, and different conceits of that kind. We dined at the table d'hotes and afterwards walked in the jardin Anglois, the great promenade here which beats all that I ever saw. It resembles exactly an English park, laid out in different ways, from the most polished to the most wild. It beats the Cascine hollow. We came back at 6 1/2 to the theatre, and saw an act and an half of the play. Then at 8 I came to a German master I had engaged.

Wednesday Aug 16. At 8 1/4 today we started in a carriage with a Swiss gentleman lioniser who proposed to join us, to the country palace at Sleipshein where are 42 rooms full of pictures! There is de quoi faire a very fine collection if they picked out the best alone, and that is what they intend to do, and to join them in one building with the Royal Gallery. The Palace is an reste is out of repair. We thence went across to the other Palace at Nimphenburg where the King at present is living. We could not see the

Munich Aug 17 Aug 21 1820 Bergtolsgadin (149)

rooms, but the gardens which were partly in the English stile were very royal and pleased me. There is a menagerie and two beautiful Jets d'Eau, which spout 90 feet high a great volume of water. The machine for this is immense as might be expected. It is a forcing pump worked by water. We returned from thence and Lefevre and I dressed up stairs. Afterwards we went till 7 driving in the Jardin Anglais where the military bands played. I am more pleased with that than any thing here. At 7 German master.

Thursday Aug 17. Young Mr. Scligtiroll called on us in the morning. After this we went to the remainder of the Palace wherein is the Chapelle Reische, full of precious relicks, jewels and every kind of preciosity, and a room of very mediocre modern statues, except one Venus of Canova. Then to the Gallery till 12; then the chambers of deputies, Lords, and Commons etc. Dined up stairs, and at 4 drove in the Jardin Anglais, and to a kind of tea garden a mile or two distant, where there is an assemblage of people high and low once a week, and music and waltzing. It was too hot tho' for that today they said. It was rather a low kind of business, every body sipping bottles of beer. We brought our Swiss friend whom we met there, and had our German master for 2 hours. I went to bed at 1 1/2 after writing a long letter and my journal.

Friday Aug 18. Mr. Schligtiroll was to have come to us this morning but never appeared, so we packed up and then at 11 went to see the Lithographic printing office. This art was invented here, and was here brought to greatest advancement. After this we played at billiards etc., till 1 1/2 when we started for Rosenheim on the way to Bertoholsgarden near Salzburg where we are to see a Kings chasse. The country was beautiful through the last 2 Posts in the stile of the Tyrol in point of neat cottages and cultivation, which certainly give the greatest beauty to a scene, of any thing. We came in at 9 in rain with a lightening which had lasted some hours, and found a very nice Inn. Had tea, read and went to bed.

Saturday Aug 19. Set off for Bertolsgarden at 7 o'clock. The country throughout the day was like different sorts of parks in England, most highly cultivated, with forests of fir and other trees, and picturesque cottages placed always in the most advantageous spots. We dined at Traumestein in a sort of trattoria and news shop, and reached Bertolsgarden about 10 1/2. The travelling in this country is extremely slow and sometimes dangerous from the bad driving of the Post boys, but it is made very pleasant by the honesty of the people which is very striking after Italy and the excellence of all the Inns. At Bertolsgarden where is a small Kings Palace the Inn is capital in its own way. We had thunder and lightning today again in the afternoon and some very heavy rain.

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Sunday Aug 20. It was raining a great deal today, so we could not see much in the way of scenery; but we presented ourselves to Prince Loewenstein and Count Papperheim, two aide de camps of the King of Bavaria, who are to shew us a royal chasse of deer tomorrow by Mr. Taylors recommendation. We dined at one at a table d'hotes, after visiting a curious shop of trinkets, all the work of the country people about this place. At 6 we went out walking about the neighbourhood, and after that were uncommonly troubled for a long time in finding conveyance to go to the chasse tomorrow. However we at length succeeded by means of some kind gentlemen who volunteered to interpret for us, and we went to bed in peace. We saw an old man of 116 years old who lives here.

Monday Aug 21. At 4 1/2 this morning we started for the chasse in the mountains about 3 leagues off. At the end of two we were stopped and obliged to walk as the road became too narrow for the king to pass us, in case we had been in the way when he came up. So we walked the rest till we came to the toils where Loewenstein received us. The chasse was in a deep valley shut in on the sides by precipitous rocks; into this they had tracked about 80 or 90 head of deer and shut them in by toils at both ends; then little green enclosures were made for the guns to be posted in. We had one of these given us in conjunction with other spectators, the shooter who was to have been there not having arrived. Before the line was a broad course of a torrent and beyond that was a wood into which they had forced the game, and from which they drove it again with dogs and men into the way of the guns. This went on for 4 or 5 hours during which they cannonaded very quick, but with little effect; for I never saw much greater proportion of misses. The result was about 70 head of deer; we were much surprised in the middle of the time at seeing Devon walk up. He came from Saltzburg for the purpose of this chasse and staid with us through it. After it we were standing near the place where the King was counting out the game when Tappenheim presented us to him and he asked us to dinner at Bergtolsgarden. As our carriage was so far off we were obliged to get carried as we could, and I was taken in by Loewenstein, who is by the bye about the fattest man in Bavaria. We dressed directly both ourselves and Devon who had

(150) Berchtolsgarden Aug 22 Aug 24 1820

nothing here, and even so were a little too late for dinner. However the King was so gracious and good humoured that it all went off capitally. It was an interesting dinner for the faces that we saw. Eugene Bohearnais and Prince Swarzenbourgh, Reichenbach the engineer, Marshall Wrede and about 16 more were there. We staid till about 6, then came home.

Tuesday Aug 22. Today we again followed the motions of the court. Devon came over with horses from Hallein where he had returned last night, and so we went about comfortably. Firstly Swartzenburg was taken to a famous machine of Mr. Reichenbachs without the King. This machine is employed to raise the salt water which is brought from the mines here and convey it over the mountains to Beichenhall about 3 leagues distant where is a manufactory for extracting the salt; the reason of this is that there is not sufficient wood for consumption here. It is a vast forcing pump which is worked by fresh water from a height of 400 feet and raises the salt water 12 hundred. This water is in the ::r of 53 to 44 heavier than fresh water. I did not understand the whole explanation being in German, but I admired the machine which works in a room so quietly as actually not to be perceptible from the noise except a little splashing. After this we came to a miserable dinner at the inn which was too full to attend to us. At 1 1/2 about we started again to a romantick lake Konig See, where another scene of this royal drama was to be enacted. The King came with his whole party an hour after us, and we were invited by Loewenstein into his royal boat which was rowed by 11 men and one pretty damsel. We went all down the lake with several other boats full folowing, one of which had 4 small canons which they constantly discharged for the echo. The thing we came for tho' was two artificial cascades from the top of the mountains, one in the course of a small torrent which had been stopped above and made into a lake full of large pieces of timber which was precipitated all at once with surprising effect. The other was a dry cascade during which two heaps of timber were discharged like the launching of a ship from an inclined plane, the smallest of which as I could judge from below was twice the height of a man, and four times the length at least. The finest part of this was the prodigious splashing at the bottom which resembled in appearance and sound a line of of cannonading. By way of sport, this is the most superb child amusement one could conceive; in the same stile we rowed back and disembarked about sunset. We proceeded directly to a salt mine without the King, where was to be an illumination. We all were decked out in miners habits; and embarked in little carts drawn by two men, down a shaft 1800 feet long, lighted with candles all the way, ourselves having one each, like white penitents. At the end of this we were surprised by entering a large chamber, perhaps 200 yards round, with a gallery at the top , the whole of which was surrounded by festoons of lamps, and below it was a rich star of fire below, which shewed the depth of the mine off to great advantage. A band of music was playing and mines were exploded
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at the bottom with a really tremendous noise. Altogether this scene pleased me more than any I have seen here or perhaps anywhere.

Wednesday Aug 23. At 5 we started in the carriage with Devons servant for the 2nd. chasse (of chamois); we found ourselves among the long train of other carriages also going there, Major Heideker etc., etc.; we passed through the chasse of Monday and went about 3 miles farther on foot. We found that of 60 chamois which had been collected in the toils 40 had escaped, so the chasse was but of an hours duration about, before they were all killed. The stand of shooting was confined; so we were made to climb up a little mountain, or rather a large rock from where we had an excellent view of everything. The scenery was superb and wild. Before behind and every where were immense mountains of solid and shagged rock 9000 feet high above the sea, with nothing like vegetation, but patches of stunted firs, which did not even so reach half way up their hight and looked like moss. It made a contrast with the tameness of the chasse, where about 18 chamois were driven about and killed out of little boxes in an enclosure of a few acres. It was not so fine in that respect as the deer chasse. The King asked us again to dinner, near a small house in the valley of the deer chasse (Wimbach). The table was put on a platform under a sycamore tree in a glorious situation. I was unexpectedly called upon to sit next to Prince Swatzenbourg, and always called Milord, which probably was the original mistake. The company was as follows about: the King, near him Prince Swartzenbourg and Eugene Bohearnais, 2nd. I and Princh Charles; 3rd. Minister X, Marshall Wrede; 4th. X and Devon; 5th. an old doating General and the Grand Eaujer; 6th. Count Taxis and Lefevre; the tabled closed by Loewenstein. Another table held Pappenheim and two others. The whole business went off very satisfactorily. The Kings manners are most affable, and make everything comfortable about him. We came back and then Devon went off to Halleins. I wrote journal etc.

Thursday Aug 24. No horses till 11 o'clock when at last some came over from Hallein sent by Devon. We arrived with them at the said place about 2. The country still beautiful. We found Devon ready to go to the mines and we accompanied him. They are the finest in Germany. We had a long walk first up the mountain over the town, where we dressed as miners, and entered the first passage; we went on a great way alternately walking in an horizontal direction and slipping on our backsides down inclined shafts. We went down five of these; after the third we saw one of the 30 chambers which there are here, where fresh water is

Saltzburgh Aug 25 Aug 29 1820 Marbach (151)
on the Danubes bank <Inserted >

poured in to stay for 3 months and get saturated with salt which is their method of procuring it. This chamber was about 14 feet deep with 7 of water, above which was a platform, round it the chamber where we walked. After descending all the vertical shafts, we entered a passage a mile long which leads out near the town of Hallein. It has a few degrees of inclination outwards, and is almost all cut in solid rocks. They put us all six astride one after the other on a long board set on four wheels, and on this we were dragged by two men, one before and one behind, as hard as they could run the whole way. The passage was but just large enough to let us pass. At 1/2 a mile off we saw the first appearance of day light, in a small spot which by degrees expanded to open air and ********. We came back to dinner and went on to Saltzburgh. Devon went farther towards Munich.

Friday Aug 25. We took a cicerone today to see the town which pleased me very much. One or two handsome churches, fine streets and squares ornamented with fountains. Through the rock on one side is a fine work of a late Archbishop of the place; a passage about 160 yards long and duly high and wide. We went before dinner to a villa called Hellbrunan a little way from the town where there were the prettiest giuochi d'aqua I ever saw, foolish things as they are at all times. We dined at the table d'hotes where we met Mr. and Mrs. and young Mr. Fortescue, and then went to a beautiful English villa of Swartzenburgs brother which is as pretty in its own way as anything I ever saw. The whole country about the town indeed is very pleasing and make one wish to stay longer. Coming back from hence we saw a room full of Roman antiquities found in the adjoining garden; among them were fine specimens of glass vessels and some pretty vases. We left Saltzburg about 5 in a violent thunderstorm which we had now for the 4 last nights that we have travelled. We waited under the town gates till it abated a little and then went on two stages to St. Gilzen which we reached and went to bed at 12. It was a very small Inn in a beautiful country, but it was clean.

Saturday Aug 26. We started about 7 and went 2 Posts to Ebensee, at the end of Traunsee, where we embarked our carriage and went to Gimenden at the other end. The lake would have been magnificent if not for a most violent thunder and rain storm while we were on it. This we now regularly expect everyday. We went on two more stages to a nice little town called Wels where we arrived at 12, had tea and to bed. Here ends the pretty country which we have gone through now almost ever since Verona, the environs of Munich excepted.

Sunday Aug 27. At 8 we set off at 8 for Lintz one stage of two posts. We arrived at 11 to an inn where not a soul talked anything but German, otherwise pretty good. We dined at 1 and then went to look after a boat to go to Vienna by the Danube. Not talking
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German was a dreadful job here, as we were not able to find one person who talked french till the Schiffmeisters who let us a large boat to go down the river tomorrow. At Lintz the rain was nearly incessant. We saw nothing but one handsome church, and a place of exercise for marksmen. We went to a stupid play in the evening.

Monday Aug 28. We were up at 5 and were getting our goods on board the boat about 6. Then 2 young Prussian students proposed to share our boat and its expense, so we waited a little more and then set off with two watermen. We had a horrid business of it to embark the carriage. The boat was pretty capacious and had a shed or small house in midships of deal which held us very well. I enjoyed the party very much ; the river is superb in itself, and its banks are also beautiful in most parts. The wind was up stream and prevented our progress a good deal, so we dined and slept at a place called Marbach about 1/2 way to Vienna, instead of going to Stein as intended. We went to bed about 9 I think; Lefevre and I and one of the Germans in one room. They are medical students I find and have been to Paris and Bologna. Near Grein today we passed a Strudel or whirlpool which was very fine.

Tuesday Aug 29. We got up at 1 1/2 and were off again at 2 in rain. I slept in the cabin most of the way to Stein where we stopped to breakfast, after which we set off and went to Vienna by about 3 o'clock. The country was not so pretty as yesterday, but the river was magnificent with all the immense rafts we saw also floating down it which added to its grandeur. There are one or two bridges over it made of wood, which is worth but little in this country. On our arrival we had a more severe examination at the custom house than I remeber ever meeting with. Disembarking our carriage was also a great bore. We came to the Imperatrice d'Autriche Hotel, which was in the true stile of a great town as was every thing I saw. We had some dinner and took a fiacre to the German opera where the Generentola was got up with German words, but most capital music. The house is much superior to that of Munich, and we could not get room to sit, but the dresses and the music were as good as I could conceive. The company also seemed good.

(152) Vienna Aug 30 Sep 4 1820

Wednesday Aug 30. Got up latish as usual the first morning at a new place; breakfasted at 9. After that went out with a laguay de place about some shops and came in during rain, at 1 about. Dined in the Saal of the Inn at 3. Then from half past 4 till 7 walked about to see the Town which I think truly like a metropolis; certainly next to London and Paris. Saw Canovas monument of Christ in the Augustin church. I after this went to the Police about the passport which they are ridiculously strict about. Afterwards we had a German master for 2 hours and then tea.

Thursday Aug 31. The German master came at 7 this morning, and gave us each an hour. We after breakfast went to the Cabinet d'Histoire naturelle which is chiefly consisting of stuffed animals and birds; the former very badly done, but the collection is the richest I remember in numbers. We saw the publick library today which is in a very fine room indeed, and has many great curiosities in it, but not so many as at Munich. It consists of 200,000 vols, this library we saw after dinner and then went to drive in the Praters or publick promenade of Vienna which is very magnificent, but not prettier than that at Munich. During this drive we conversed on the subject of family calamities, and on ones means of bearing them, with reference to our having received no letters for a long time. Before, we had been in a publick reading room to see the English papers. In the evening we went to a party at comtesse Sibowska I think, where we saw the present goings on of Vienna. We met different people there, French, Russian, etc., etc. Had some music by a young Russian girl etc.

Friday Sep 1. German master as yesterday. At 11 we went to see a collection of pictures of Count Lambeck I think, who showed them to us himself with another Rusian Count and his daughter, that sung last night. I was delighted with them. Soon after we came home Lord Stewarts attache Mr. Aston called with a letter for me from Mr. Allen which told me of the horrid news of my brother Bobs death in America, killed in an affray with his first lieutenant!! How strangely fulfilled were our yesterdays prognostics! This is a sort of thing that is too great and deep an accident to feel in the common way. I hardly understand it at this distance; I shall tho' before long. I went with Lefevre after dinner to Lord Stewarts where I found a German courier was to start soon for England, whom I shall accompany.

Saturday Sep 2. The courier never called on me, so we went to Lord Stewarts after breakfast and found that Metternich had not yet named him. I was almost all day at home besides this, and Lord Stewart was illjudging enough to ask me to dinner. Lefevre was not at first asked, so I went and sat with him while he dined at a traitteurs. When we came home another message was sent for him to come too, so at five we went and to my surprise found a dozen people at diner. I thought he only had something to tell me and would have dined almost alone, or I should not have gone. There
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was Lady Stewart and another Lady, 3 attaches, Mr. Aston, Bloomfield and Wood, Mr. Turner the sons private tutor, a family physician. After dinner the Duke of Cambridge who is at Vienna came to a visit. I then ran away not to be still farther plagued by an introduction to him. We went to bed without hearing anything about the courier.

Sunday Sep 3. I went to Lord Stewarts and accepted the dispatches which he had offered to give me, as I heard nothing about the couriers going. After this Lefevre and I went to three shops of carriages and at the last fixed upon one. When we came home Lefevre had to go out to dinner with a friend of his; and I staid at home till Mr. Aston sent me another message of Metternichs courier being appointed which made me go again to Lord Stewarts, but I found it all useless as the man could not take me. So I came back, eat a little dinner and went to the post where I found a letter from Devon! and none to interest me. I waited at home till 12 nearly when Lefevre came back from his party; in constant expectation of hearing about my going from Lord Stewarts.

Monday Sep 4. This day was spent in uncertainty and disgust again. At 1 Mr. Aston came to say that the dispatches which I ought to have had at 11 could not be ready till tomorrow at 1, from a schuffling excuse that Lord Stewart expected the post. So we went a drive to Shonbrun a palace of the Emperor, 1/2 a mile from the town. He is there so we could not see the inside, but the menagery is the best arranged I ever saw, tho' badly

Vienna Sep 5 Sep 13 1820 Tournay (153)

filled. The Botanical Garden is far inferior to those in England. We dined at an Inn near the Palace, and returned after seeing the Hofgarten, another publick promenade. We staid all the evening at home.

Tuesday Sep 5. We went in the morning to a review of Austrian troops in the Faubourg who dit on are going soon to Naples. The discipline seemed very good. At 12 another message came from that odious Mr. Aston to say that I could not go till this evening, so we went to see the Imperial gallery of pictures which is immense as usual in numbers, but in very bad arrangement. Another building contains a large number of coats of armour formerly belonging to illustrious individuals. We then went into a very pretty garden of Prince Swarzenbergs, and came home for the evening. We had previously dined in the Inn. Mr. Hammer sent us the English newspapers, and I was shocked at the account in the courier of Bobs end. I hope it is not true in particulars. About 10 came my passport at last, but without dispatches, so I sent to order horses directly. These did not come till one, when at last I set off and took leave of Lefevre who was going to bed. After a confederacy of 6 weeks and 5 days which went off very well and which I am sorry was not longer, independently of the causes of its disolution.

Wednesday Sep 6 > These days were all spent on the road towards
Thursday " 7 > England, without my stopping anywhere to sleep.
Friday " 8 > Wednesday night I passed through Lintz. That
Saturday " 9 > day I fasted from prudence, and eat nor drank
Sunday " 10 > not an atom. The next day I had to stop at
Monday " 11 > Scharding to have my carriage mended, and had
Tuesday " 12 > a little tea and bread and butter after 38 hours thorough abstinence. This day was an eclipse of the sun which with some smoked glass I saw very fairly. Thanks to Lord Stewart I was not far enough on to see it as a true annular eclipse which it was about Ratisbon and Frankfurt. It was better though than one I saw at Dunton once. Friday morning I early crossed the Danube for the last time passing through Regensburgh or Ratisbon which town was not so handsome as I expected. I fasted this day again, but had another little repair to my carriage. I got to Nurnberg in the evening which is one of the best looking German towns I have seen. Nothing can I judge of, of course, but the outside. In the morning of the 9th. I passed Wurzburgh another very good town. The great palace and the place before it are among the finest things I have seen of this kind. At ***elbach my carriage again wanted mending, so I eat a little breakfast after a 2nd. pause of 50 hours. In the evening at Aschaffenburgh a 4th. stop for my carriages sake. This night leaving Bavaria I passed thro' Frankfurt; and the next day about 3 entered the Prussian states at Coblentz. This is a fine town with a bridge of boats over the Rhine, which river is equal if not superior to the Danube in magnificence. I should like to see more of it. These Prussian states bullied me in my demi courier
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capacity as having an additional Post geld for them to pay. The night of the 10th. I went through Cologne and the 11th. went through Aix la Chapelle whence I unhappily took the road through Liege instead of Mastricht and got delayed 2 hours for horses. I reached Brussels about 10 o'clock on the 12th. This is a very nice looking town. I had here to give a thorough looking over and repair to all the iron work almost about the carriage and breakfasted here. I had had tea etc., the stage before Liege after a third fast of 53 hours. I was forced to it by hunger which I hardly ever or never at all felt before, and then I relished the worst bread and tea possible. I arrived at Tournay about 9 where I was falsely told I could not have got in to Lille with my couriers passport; so I went to bed here at a nice Inn which I was provoked at, as it spoilt the olon <Greek> of my journey. It was better tho' than passing the night at the gates of Lille which I thought was the alternative. It since appears I might have humbugged through that place, altho' without sealed dispatches and a couriers badge.

Wednesday Sep 13. I left Tournay at 5. It seems a very pretty place with the river Oudenards running through it. I could not see it well tho'. I breakfasted at Lille where my passport was stopped for an hour. This is a very fine town; afterwards with a beautiful day I completed my way to Calais by 8 or 9 o'clock, more struck by the French gaiity than I was last time I entered it. The Germans however are strikingly solid and grave.

(154) Calais Sep 14 Sep 22nd. 1820 Althorp

I came to S. Quillacks which gave me sad recollections of this time last year! I had time to do no business so I had some supper and at 12 went to bed.

Thursday Sep 14. I got up at 7 1/2 and completed selling my carriage to Dessin for 600 franks, the same I gave for it nearly. I then went to the Cabinet de lecture to see farther accounts of Bobs death in the English newspapers. I looked over a great number, to my surprise without finding a word about it after the first horrid account of Aug 18 till Sep 12 when to my infinite unexpected joy it was finally contradicted. The falsehood of the report had originally occurred to me as possible, but before this time I had entirely left off hoping for it, so my joy was complete. What a change in my feelings as to past recollections and in my expectations for the future, both which were become so gloomy. I thank God for this happy relief! May he bless its effect on my mind and that of all my family! I after this set about my departure for England with cheerful impatience, and was provoked at the multiplied delays that opposed our embarkation in the packet. However, we set off at 11 o'clock and arrived at Dover in 3 1/2 hours after a very good passage. The packet was not very full; among the passengers was a fat Roman Marchesa coming for the Queens trial, who with her young cavalier made acquaintance with me. At Dover I staid till 4 1/2 getting my goods through the custom house and dining. I then set off in a double bodied coach for London exactly the same hour that I arrived there this day last year, a curious coincidence. I went two stages inside then the rest I changed places with a Winchester school boy who was going up.

Friday Sep 15. At about 7 1/2 I arrived in town and found John Forster and Venables all in happiness who told me that the news was all a lie, and that my family were at Althorp. I breakfasted and dined with Nannette in George Isteds house as usual. I did all my business and at 2 drove with her till dinner to Lee and Kennedys garden to buy plants. Dined at 6 and went to bed at 9 1/2.

Saturday Sep 16. I should have gone in the Mail last night to Northampton, but Nannette with tears entreated and obliged me to take a chaise for it today. So at 6 I started and found the difference between England and the rest of Europe in posting, for I breakfasted at Barnet, and was at Northampton I think at 2. There I saw my Father and Althorp, and went on to Althorp in his carriage where I found my Mother and Sarah with her children and Mr. Grenville, who had assembled here to console themselves in their misfortune and heard its contradiction a week ago. My meetings in all parts were very satisfactory. We dined at 6 1/2 and passed the evening as of old.

Sunday Sep 17. We went to church all of us in rain and heard Vigoureux read but not preach. After it I took a walk about the
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park, to kennel and gardens etc. I played at billiards with Mr. Grenville before chapel which Vigoureux came to give us at 6. He dined with us.

Monday Sep 18. Went out shooting with my father at 1. After some billiards as yesterday with Mr. Grenville. We had not very good sport throughout. In the evening there was cribbage at which I did not play but read some of the Abbot the new Waverley novel. 3P.

Tuesday Sep 19. About 12 1/2 I went out shooting with my Father. Mr. Grenville went away at 8. At billiards. We had very bad sport, and came home with only 1 bird each. In the evening cribbage.

Wednesday Sep 20. It rained almost all day, and I do not peep out once, but sat in Sarahs room talking and reading the Abbot. Althorp came back from Leamington where he dined yesterday with Mr. Acklom who is there. We had cribbage in the evening.

Thursday Sep 21. The day was again very bad so tho' my Father and I set off to shoot, we came back without going out of the Park, and besides that I went not out. Sir William and Lady Wake, Sir James and Lady Gambier, Mr. and Mrs. and 2 Miss Bouveries, Andrew and Mr. Henry Sawbridge dined with us, at 5 o'clock to let them get away in time in the evening. The business was dull enough, but they went away in time to let us have our cribbage.

Friday Sep 22. Today was given away to the poor of Brington, Brampton and Harleston meat and bread as a rejoicing for Bobs recovery. Three oxen were killed and the effect seemed very good. They gave some lively cheers as they departed. We then went out shooting hares in the Park for 1 1/2 hours, and I then walked with Althorp to look at his sheep and cows. After dinner cribbage. I have started today an idea of my going over to Lausanne to see Gin who wrote us today in very

Althorp Sep 23 Oct 4 1820 London (155)

bad spirits and seemingly unwell. I think it will make her happier to hear all about it from me. 5H <Inserted>

Saturday Sep 23. Today at 12 1/2 I set off riding to Northampton to do my petites affaires, the chief object was to look after my yeomanry uniform for Monday. I called on Mrs. Kerr and Dr. Robertson who is now bewildered by his quantity of practice, instead of despairing of ever getting a fee which was the case before. Duncannon and his wife came to dine and sleep at Althorp, on the way to Apethorpe. After dinner I was extremely sleepy with talking of the Queen. We played at whist.

Sunday Sep 24. We went to church, all but Sarah. After this I walked with Lady Duncannon and my Mother, and after them, by myself indoors was reading Ivanhoe. Vigoureux dined with us. Evening spent reading and talking.

Monday Sep 25. Today the yeomanry begins exercising at Northampton so we were all decked out in our uniforms, and after breakfast set off for the market place there, where we formed and then proceeded to the race course to manoeuvre. I had the command of a half squadron, and got off without any grand mistake tho' I previously knew nothing of the matter; we came home by 3. The Duncannons went away this morning. After dinner no cribbage was proposed so I spent the evening nearly asleep.

Tuesday Sep 26. We went out again to exercise on the race ground and had a good work of it. I think it is very pretty amusement; we had a fine day for it. At 3 1/2 we got home and I read till dinner. After dinner Ivanhoe and cribbage.

Wednesday Sep 27. At 11 we were again met on the Northampton racecourse and exercised for 2 or 3 hours in rain all the time; but quite dry under our grey cloaks. We had luncheon after it at Mr. Kerrs, and came home where we found preparations in great forwardness for tomorrows dinner. I read Ivanhoe to the end before dinner, and the evening, except a rubber of cribbage.

Thursday Sep 28. Today at 12 the yeomanry came to exercise in the Park as they are to dine here today. The day was fine and we had a good field day. At 2 we began disposing of the horses and the men were drawn up before the house on foot. At 3 we marched into the gallery to dinner. This was very well managed and the thing went off very satisfactorily both to us and to the men. Toasts innumerable were given, and many songs were sung. I had to make my first publick speech on occasion of my health being drunk, and I afterwards sung a song among the rest. Althorp and I were the only officers who sat till 9 1/2 o'clock when the yeomanry who remained were extremely drunk and chaired him and me out to the top of the stairs where we begged to be deposited; having already run no small peril of being precipitated over the Balustrade.
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Friday Sep 29. This was the last field day on the Northampton raceground where we met at 11 in very good number after our bout last night; but two or three were hurt in going home. Some slept in straw at the stable; but they all managed to attend. I and my Father rode home different ways. Althorp did not return with us, but went on to Wiseton where he stays a fortnight. In the evening we were all reading.

Saturday Sep 30. I went out shooting with my Father and performed badly enough, killed 4 birds; they are very wild but there are great numbers. We staid out till dinner. In the evening we had a jolly game at cribbage.

Sunday Oct 1. Went to church in the morning, all but my Mother and had Chapel at 5 1/2. In the morning I wrote a long letter to Bob and another to Fritz in the evening.

Monday Oct 2. Mr. Rose and Andrew came to breakfast and then went to shoot with us about Cank and Haddon Spineys etc. I dined at Althorp and then started at 8 o'clock for Northampton where I got into the Mail and slept almost all the way up to town.

Tuesday Oct 3. I arrived at Spencer House about 8 and breakfasted with Nannette at 9. I walked up to Fleet Street then went to the Alfred after which I saw Brecknock who told me I might have gone to the Queens trial which reopened today, and I missed thereby the beginning of Broughams speech most stupidly! I dined at 7 with Lord and Lady Bessbourough, William Ponsonby and Lady Barbara and Fred Ponsonby. I left them at 9 1/2 and came home by 10 1/4.

Wednesday Oct 4. Lord Camden and Brecknock took me to the house of Lords where I heard Brougham finish his speech. I never heard anything finer than the eloquence of it throughout, but

(156) London Oct 5 Oct 11 1820 Paris

particularly the concluding peroratio which was quite magnificent. I then came away about 12; but John Forster had not been able to get my passport so I could not go down to Brighton by the 3 o'clock coach as I intended. I went however and got my passport which otherwise I should not have had till tomorrow, and accepted of Lady Bessborough an invitation to dinner and the play. I went to her therefore at 5 1/2 and we went to see Rob Roy and too late for dinner, both very good and generally very well acted. The Duncannons, William and Lady Barbara Ponsonby and Fred Ponsonby dined with them.

Thursday Oct 5. I set off at about 9 for Brighton in a coach which took us 7 miles round. N.B. warn my friends against it. I arrived about 5. Had dinner in the Old Ship Coffee room, and finding that no packet was to sail I went to the Play which was exceedingly badly acted, and not worth mentioning.

Friday Oct 6. Got up at 8, found no packet going till this evening. So after breakfast I walked all about the town of which I have a very comptent idea now. I came in about 1 and wrote letters and journal and read newspaper. I like the look of this town pretty well, but the country is horrid all round. Dined in the Coffee room and at 6 went on board the packet for Dieppe.

Saturday Oct 7. Last night was spent in a birth on board a two masted packet where all round me in the cabin was nothing but vomiting. I slept a good deal tho' and did not get up on deck till nearer 11 than 10. We had a long passage of 17 hours, as the wind which was fair at first shifted against us. I put up at Taylors English Hotel, having been to the custom house where I was searched and got off notwithstanding that I had a lace gown about me for Gin from my Mother. I walked all about the town of Dieppe which is dirty and mean enough. There is a fine line of white cliffs on each side, under which I also went. I dined in the table d'Hotes at the Inn at 5 1/2, where I sat a long time listening to one continued story or a series of them rather from an old one eyed Irishman, who it appears had been almost all his life in France and was detense in the Revolution. At 10 I started in a diligence for Rouen stuck in between two men in the back seat of a caleche which it seemed had been the foundation of the vehicle to which cabriolet siege and were afterwards stuck on.

Sunday Oct 8. At about 5 1/2 we arrived at Rouen where I got into the Hotel de Watel and lay down on a bed till 9 or 10 when I breakfasted and went out on my lionising affairs. The town itself is old and ill built and stinking but large. The Cathedral is a very fine building, but not quite complete; inside it is not in the ruinous state I expected. The outside is rich Gothic. I think I prefer that of Amiens to it so far as I remember. Another church of St. Ouen there is almost as large and also very rich, but not finished either at one end. Near this was a pretty publick garden;
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the prettiest side of the town is towards the river Seine, which is here very fine. I went up to the top of a hill called le mont Saint Catherine where I enjoyed the view extremely, and with my Thomsons Seasons passed some time there. Here the two churches look very handsome. I went afterwards along part of the Boulevards which form a beautiful publick walk and drive round part of the town. There is a music and Biblioteck which I could not get into, but which are in a handsome building with other publick offices. At 4 1/2 I dined at the table d'hotes with I should think 20 more, and afterwards went to the play, where in a nice little theatre were acted three little pieces, and very well acted.

Monday Oct 9. At 5 I set off in the Diligence for Paris. I was very cold all day tho' I had my yeomanry cloak on. At about 8 1/2 we came into Paris having dined at Mantes. The road was not anywhere so pretty as people had said, and in some parts very ugly. The best part was along the banks of the Seine. At Paris I went to the Hotel de Montesgiveu near the Palais Royal. I had heard the name of it and went not knowing any reason to choose another, but it is very small. I did not go out, but had tea, read a little and went to bed at 11.

Tuesday Oct 10. I breakfasted at a Cafe, found out my Uncles lodgings, went to Breguay with a note from my Father, came back to my Uncle and sat with him a long time talking about Bob, the Queen etc. Went with him to the mail offices, then went to see Breguet who was not at home before. Dined at Beauvilliers and went at 7 1/2 to the Italian opera where I with difficulty got a place between two Frenchmen grumbling like anything. They acted Don Giovanni, and it was very well got up. Principals were Mon. Gaveia and Mad. Fodor whom I had never seen; most enchanting was the music. I had an ice and went to bed.

Wednesday Oct 11. Breakfasted at the Cafe de la Rotonde, then went to the Louvre where I had but just time to skim this most admirable collection, as it even still seems to me after all the great things of Italy have gone back again. Probably the rooms and galleries add much to the effect of what is in them. At 12 I went again to my Uncle 24 Rue Duphot, with my documents about Bob which he read over. He walked with me to Breguets and the Police Bureau, and returned himself in a cabriolet. I went on to another passport office, dined at Verys not so good as Beauvilliers. At 6 I went to the Opera Francais which itself is a horrid business, for the language will not do with fine music. But the ballet with Poll, Albert, Bigottine etc., etc., is quite perfect.

Paris Oct 12 Oct 19 1820 Chateau de Bethusy (157)

Thursday Oct 12. Breakfasted at the Rotonde cafe. Went about my passport before twelve, then went and sat with my Uncle for 2 hours, who is the most agreeable man I know for that kind of thing. After him I was pestered about my passport and packing up etc., till I went away nearly. I had I suppose 7 or 8 times to go to different police offices about it. At 6 I started in the Lions diligence. I had the middle place in the cabriolet which I think better than the inside, tho' I should have been very cold without my capot in the night.

Friday Oct 13. In the morning we had already passed Fontainebleau which I should have liked to have seen again. The country all day was very like the greater part I have seen of France, none of it very flat, and almost all uninteresting. I sat between a young conceited French commercial traveller and the son of the Carlsrule banker. We had dinner breakfast and supper of all which I imprudently partook against my better rules. We coasted part of the Loire today but passed no considerable towns.

Saturday Oct 14. The night was very cold again. In the morning we passed by Nevers. The coach dined at Roulins, but today I only breakfasted with them. Neither Moulins nor Nevers are very good towns, tho' the former is the better and has a beautiful stone bridge over the Hier, the finest almost I have seen in France. I walked a good way today, chiefly from Moulins while my friends dined.

Sunday Oct 15. Last night was much warmer. We breakfasted and dined as usual today, and arrived at Lions about 8, when I went among the other people to sleep at the Hotel Milan where I had a miserable dirty room and went to bed very soon.

Monday Oct 16. I got up about 9 as I was not called, and set off to walk about. I breakfasted at a cafe, took my place in a diligence for Geneva, and walked down towards the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, which however I did not see as it was very far I found. The town is built between the two rivers and has several bridges over each. The Quay towards the Rhone is magnificent, and consists of very fine houses. The banks of the Saone are not so handsome but are crowded with buildings that give the notion of a great town as it is. The Cathedral in this part is fine old Gothic but not very large. I was in it today during part of a funeral service for Marie Antoinette. There is one immense square with trees at one end and surrounded by fine buildings, and another smaller where is the town house (Hotel de Ville), a very fine edifice. The chief curiosities here are the manufactories which I had not time to see. The rest of the town is generally very badly built except one or two good streets. The people are considered great Bonapartists. At 2 after waiting an hour at the coach office I started for Geneva in the cabriolet where I staid till night, and then got inside with one other old gentleman who
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was uncommonly frightened at the bad road. Supped again!! but slept very well during the night.

Tuesday Oct 17. We breakfasted about 9 at a place near which are what they call la perte du Rhone, where the Rhone falls into three openings in its bed of rock and reappears after a few hundred yards. It is a fine spot, and so is the greater part of this journey. One enters the plain of Geneva in the direction of the river that cuts its way through the tail of Mount Jura, and gives several fine points of view, but the real Jura road is incomparably finer. We came to geneva about 5, where directly meeting with old Dejean I went with him to Secheron for the night. I was delighted with the Inn this time which I had not before a good impression of, but now I think it the cleanest and best I know, and the people very civil. I dined in the Sale where one Angerstein an old Etonian recognised me and we talked together for a good while. He offered to take me to the play at Geneva but I went not. With this days journal ends the third year that I have kept it. This year has been the most interesting and varied I have ever passed, and probably ever shall, for my travelling days will not last long. I certainly have reaped advantages in some respects, and great ones. I have had experience in the world, and have learnt to shift for myself better than I could have done by any other means. I have I hope increased the confidence of my family in me, and above all I have nearly expelled that melancholy disposition I gained at College, but most active I feel that I must be to prevent its return when I again remain quiet in England. There still a danger to my prospects, that occasionally overwhelms me, but I must, I trust get over that too, as I have now persuaded myself in sober reflection tho'. I am sadly slow to begin acting on the principle that one quality alone is within all our reach, and that one object alone is worth trying for. God grant that this thought may often near to me. I have this year enjoyed the pelasures and diversions most enlivening, and which I always most desired, but even they are insufficient to make one happy alone. The nearer to it than any others, let us look to what certainly can.

Wednesday Oct 18. At 4 o'clock in a heavy rain which lasted till about 9 or 10, I left Secheron in a char of Dejeans for Lausanne. I breakfasted at Rolle where we also baited last year Oct 4. I arrived at the chateau Bethusy near Lausanne on the other side of it, where I found Gin and Mlle. Muller with the children. Lord George was gone to Berne which made it luck that I just came at that moment. Gin looked infinitely better than in the winter: Mlle only a little older, or else just the same as formerly. Gin seemed very happy and lively as ever, and the meeting was to me more satisfactory even than I expected. We dined at 4 and in the evening looked over the papers I had brought.

Thursday Oct 19. Horrid rainy weather, disagreeable society. Wish I had never come, and staid at home all day without exception of going to the end of the little lane and back again. Read no papers tonight, but talked very agreeably. Read by Gin and therefore written.
(158) Bethusy Oct 20 Nov 5 1820 Nancy

Friday Oct 20. Breakfasted at 8 1/2. Rain continuing. Lord George came back today from Berne. He looks very well too. I could not even stir out today; dined at 4. In the evening we read over the remainder of the papers I had brought, and I read some Corinne.

Saturday Oct 21. One more day passed entirely in the house, and those mostly on the sofa. Read Waverley for second time; dined at 5. In the evening played 3 games at Picquette; read till 2 up stairs. Mlle. Muller telling histories sine fine.

Sunday Oct 22. Breakfasted on Sale. Mlle. Muller interesting and pathetic as being to depart tomorrow. I took a walk with Lord George to the Lake at Ouchy, then returning resallied forth with the Gudewifa and the children for half an hour. This was but a passing gleam of sunshine that we seized, for it rained and blew violently all the evening. Talked in melancholy mood to Mlle. and read in my room till 1, Lord George having five times blown up my fire for me.

Monday Oct 23. Still nasty (intermitting rainy) weather. At 2 Sir John Dalrymple paid a visit; a flattish gosip he, now and then but rather like Bradwardine in figure and tantmicure so far. I went with Lord George to the Cerle at Lausanne where I had been introduced yesterday, and I played three games at billiards. The slavish constraint of the last days annals to be accounted for by a violent and compulsory overlooking of my shoulder. Blank house without the Muller ******* in my own room.

Wednesday Oct 25. Lord George and I went to call on Miss Sabina Cerjat in a pretty house of hers to the left of the town. She was a great friend of my grandmother in England, when she was young. Coming back we saw a Swiss gentleman Mr. Polier in his vineyard, who crammed us with grapes. Dinner and picquette as usual.

Thursday Oct 26. I took a little walk with Gin after breakfast. At 1 I went to the town to see Mr. Gibbons library which is there kept by a Swiss Doctor for Mr. Buckford an Englishman who bought it at Gibbons death, and has never removed it. It is a nice small library, but not a very good lion, except from its interest. After this I took a pony and rode with Lord George to a place where the English made some races in the summer. It is a very pretty spot near the lake. The day was very fine till about 5, and then began again to cloud over. Evening as usual.

Friday Oct 27. After luncheon, I and Lord George walked to Rovira a country house of Mr. Charles Cerjats over Bethusy. It was raining all the time at intervals. We then went down to the town also; the rest as usual. I have finished Corinne, and read also Gonsalve de Cordone a work by Florian.
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Saturday Oct 28. The day was pretty good. I went down to Lausanne to buy some playthings for George and Winny. After luncheon I walked with Lord George to a fine view over the town near a signal post with benches etc., thence down to Ouchy and along the lake, then through the town home for dinner. Picquette etc., in the evening, and Delphine by Mad. de Sta******.

Sunday Oct 29. At 10 Lord George and I went to the cercle, thence to church. The English service is performed by Dr. Allott, Dean of Raphoe who preached a very good sermon. It is in a small Catholick church. After it we returned and took Gin out walking with little George. Then Lord George and I went to town to ask for letters. In the evening Delphine.

Monday Oct 30. At 12 I went to Lausanne to the bankers, who lives in Gibbons house, where I saw his favourite terrace. I then returned after a little shopping, and after luncheon walked with with Lord George and Gin. Dr. Allott dined with us. He is a nice old man who was Fellow of Trinity in Lamberts year. In the evening came Sir John and Lady Dalrymple and 2 Miss Allotts, such horros these latter were as I never saw; the 2 former I like. We looked at Gins drawings and heard Miss Allotts and the Dean sing. They went away at 11.

Tuesday Oct 31. We had made a scheme for going to Vevay today, but the char which had been sent for the purpose proved not to be seaworthy, and we had to wait for another to be brought; so we were obliged to make a shorter expedition to an old castle beyond Morges called Vuflens from which we had a splendid view of the lake and Mont Blanc. The day was charming. I hope l'ete de St. Martin is begun as they call this course of fine weather that is generally expected in these months. We came home by 5. Poor Giny had a ear ache and side ache today, and must have been hurt in the char. I sat up in my room till 3 reading Delphine.

Wednesday Nov 1. It rained very horridly all day and I did not stir out once. I finished Delphine; we had no Picquette.

Thursday Nov 2. The day was bad till about 1 or 2, and then cleared up. I went twice to Lausanne with Lord George, called on the Dean of Raphoe, who lives in a villa nearer the lake, bought a silver cream jug for Mlle Muller, took my place in the Diligence etc. Between my walks Sir John Dalrymple paid Gin a long visit. After dinner I packed up and sent off my things to the coach office. I wrote to Mlle Muller to excuse myself from going to Berne, and to send her a present withal. How Gin and I laughed over the letter and other things all the evening, till the poor old girl went to bed, and I had to take one of my sine die adieus with her. When shall we meet again? I was to go to my diligence at 2 in the night, and Lord George good naturedly sat up and played at picquette with me till 1 1/2 when I had a dark and dirty walk to the Post office. A sombre adieu to poor Bethusy!
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Friday Nov 3. I breakfasted at Orbes where we changed diligences and went in a big covered Charaban to Pontarlier. The road was over dreary mountains with drapish snow in some parts. It is one of the entrances by which the Austrians entered France; one part is extremely narrow and was long time defended by a fortress over the road. At Pontalier we changed charabans again and went on at 6.

Saturday Nov 4. About 5 1/2 we reached Besancon, having stopped once to sup at 12. I went into a bed room to dress and lay a few hours on the bed, and then went out to look about me. The town is well built of stone, and has pretty walks about the ramparts, but nothing very remarkable in it. No diligence was going today, so I took a one horse charaban from the post at 12 and set off for Nancy. I repented rather when after the first stage there were no more covered ones, and I had to go in little carts sitting on a bundle of straw. I shall never try French post chaises again on a cross road. I went so 15 posts to Epinal, and then by a gallop of about a post I overtook a diligence which had started just before me, and got into it. Luckily it did not freeze in the night or else I would not have got on so well. As it was I never had a much less comfortable trip.

Sunday Nov 5. In the diligence which I caught up, dined at Charmes, and got to Nancy about 6. we went to the Hotel Royal which seemed very good, and had tea; went to bed at 10 1/2 after settling accounts and journal. Rainy weather.

Monday Nov 6. I went at 10 to call on Mr. Valentin the Docteur Medecin, made acquaintances with July 20 last, at Bologna. He is a useful person here, tho' in Italy I thought him a bore. He walked about lionising with me till 1. This town is a very pretty one. The most so of any I have seen in France. The Place Royale is very fine, and the Place des currieres near it. The streets are all straight and well built.

Nancy Nov 7 Nov 17 1820 Calais (159)

This was the capital of the Dukes of Lorraine, and I went to see a pretty little chapel where eight of them were buried. The Doctor compared this to the Medici chapel at Florence. I also went to the Hotel de Ville and a little collection of pictures. At 1 I dined at an excellent table d'hotes, and then went alone to see the library at the former university, a fine room enough. The Doctor then at 4 joined me, and we went to look through a house to be let, as I had expressed some curiosity on that subject. I do not think this tho' a very desirable residence, tho' it is perhaps as pretty country as most parts of France. We went to the Casernes which are very fine indeed, and the Cathedral qui n'est pas mal. At 5 I went to the Spectacle, which is not good for this town, but I always like the little French farces.

Tuesday Nov 7. I breakfasted as yesterday in a Cafe, then walked to the church of Bonsecouer in the Fauxbourgs where are two fine Mausoleums, particularly that of Stanislas, ex king of Poland and Duc de Lorraine. One figure in that is beautiful. At 1 1/2 I went to dine at the Doctors, and saw the much talked of Mad. Valentin, a fat greasy and vulger old Lady, but very good natured as they all are. Our party was another Nancy Lady who has quitte le nejoce, Mr. d'Amoureure and Mr. Matthieu. We were crammed full of all madames good dishes, and then taken a walk in the garden. About 5 Mr. Valentin walked me home; at 6 I went to the Play and saw Molieres Avare acted. During the farce I was with Valintin in the Logi de la Municipalite. I came home at 9, read, wrote and packed a little.

Wednesday Nov 8. I had taken my place in a coach which was to start at latest at 9 o'clock, so I had finished breakfast and was ready at the moment, and had to wait till eleven! The day was very fine so I took another walk through the best streets of the town, and had a very favourable impression of it when we went off. I was in the cabriolet and read through Moores odes of Anacreon. The roads were very bad and we went extremely slow. We dined about 11 o'clock at Bar sur Ornain; a blackguard set part of our company inside were, so I was glad at being in the cabriolet.

Thursday Nov 9. We had a fine day throughout at last. The country always like the rest of France unenclosed and with the road in a right line over hill and dale. I had a long walk in the middle of the day. At 3 we stopped to dine at Chalons which is a pretty town. I intended to turn off here for Rheims, if they had let me give up my place half way, but it would have given me many more difficulties, without a carriage as I was. We stopped again at Epernay to drink Champaigne in its own country, 3 francs a bottle.

Friday Nov 10. We were promised to reach Paris at 12, but we did not do so till 5 1/2. We stopped for a little dinner on the road, and on entering Paris they kept us a long time at the Bureau d'Octroy. I went in cabriolet to take a place for Sunday morning
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to Calais, and then to Meurices Hotel, qui vaut vieux than my former one by some 20 times. I first dressed, then had coffee and read the papers for 2 or 3 hours, and then retired to my room.

Saturday Nov 11. I went in search of my Uncle after breakfast at the Cafe de Foy, but he had left his lodgings and Lafitte knew nothing about his present residence; so I left a note for him at Lafittes which he got and called on me, but I was out. After that I went to the prefecture and to Breguets, and then for 3 hours to the Louvre gallery which I looked all through, and an amazing work it is to do so. It is even now an admirable collection, deprived as it is of its stolen feathers. I dined at Beauvilliers, and then walked about till 7 when I got into the Opera house to see Don Giovanni again. It began at 8 and lasted till about 11 1/4 most delightfully. I then came home through the Palais Royal.

Sunday Nov 12. The day was very fine. After breakfast at the Cafe de la Rotonde I went to the coach office and at 10 we started for Calais. I was in the cabriolet reading La**a Ro***. At Beauvais we dined about sunset, after which I got inside for the rest of the journey.

Monday Nov 13. It had snowed in the night, and went on most part of the day drizzling with sleet and rain. We breakfasted at Montreuil, a memorable place for me, as the first stopping place in our grand journey last year, Sept 16. We did not stop again till Calais about 9 o'clock. 35 hours. I had supper and went to bed about 11 1/2.

Tuesday Nov 14. I woke and got up in the pleasing hope of going over to England, but my luggage having gone down at 9, it had to return from the sea being too high to join the packet in the roads. So I went to read the papers and sat at home till 2 as the day was very raw and cold, and sleet was falling. Then however we were again fetched down to the pier, and the luggage was at last put on board a small vessel. But after an hour or two delay we had to return again for the night to our inns. It would have been dangerous to cross the bar at the mouth of the harbour. I came back and dined at Dessins at 6, very much annoyed at the stoppage.

Wednesday Nov 15. Today a gale of wind had sprung up, which tho' exactly in our favour made the sea too rough to get over the bar of the harbour. I took 2 turns up and down the pier and one walk round the walls, then dined and sat at home all the evening in the coffee room with a Cambridge man who recognised me tho' I did not know him.

Thursday Nov 16. I went today to call on Captain Boxer who lives in the basse ville. The fool who led me made me go through mud a mile farther, to a house of a friend of Boxers where he once had found him; but we came back and I found him in his own house.
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I sat with him a good while, and he asked me to dinner at 3, when I returned to him and dined atrio with him and Mrs. Boxer. I like him very much and wish he could get employed. I returned to the town at 8 and sat in the Sale till 11 1/2.

Friday Nov 17. The wind had abated but was contrary, so we were permitted to escape from the harbour in the French Mail with about 70 passengers; we were becalmed soon after starting. But soon the wind sprung up in our beam and carried us over in about 4 hours. It was blowing very fresh at Dover; and as the water would not allow the vessel to enter the harbour, we had a dreadful confusion in getting off from her in the boat. The luggage was all left in till 7 o'clock or 8 when they got into the harbour. Hamilton, commonly called Toby, who is now attache to the legate at Turin and had come with dispatches was among us, and he and I dined together at the York Hotel. At 8 1/2 I got my luggage from the custom house and we started in a chaise for London, his servant on the Bar; it was very cold. Huzza for old England again!
(160) London Nov 18 Althorp Dec 4 1820

Saturday Nov 18. We arrived in London about 7; Hamilton and I there separated. I did various business all day. At 10 breakfasted with Jaquiers, called on Dr. Wilson who was not at home, but I saw soon after at Spencer House. Then called on Lefevre fruitlessly, and came home by the Strand. Saw Lyttelton who is alone at Putney, and asked me to dine there. So at 5 I went off in a Fulham coach; at 7 we dined very comfortably together, and I came home at 10 in a post chaise.

Sunday Nov 19. At 6 I went in a Hackney coach to the Ball and mouth, and from thence at 7 took the Northampton coach which reached Northampton at 4 1/2; from thence in a chaise to Althorp. Here I found my Mother and Sarah alone, as my Father was gone today to Ainho for 2 or 3 days. Vigoureux dined there as is usual for Sundays. In the evening we chiefly talked and read a little.

Monday Nov 20. I did not go out all day as it was raining, but I read some ( I forget what ), and wrote a long letter to Lefevre before dinner. After dinner talked and read Northanger Abbey. Saw the New Room.

Tuesday Nov 21. I should have gone shooting, but Chowler was not to be found, so I rode to Northampton for business. On my return I found my Mother taken by another attack of spasm and gone to bed. I dined tete a tete with Sarah, and read all the evening loud and low.

Wednesday Nov 22. About 11 I set out partridge shooting with the two Chowlers about Brampton. The birds are wilder this year than I ever saw them. The day began tolerably well, but ended in a heavy rain which completely ducked me. My Father and Lyttelton both came back today; my Mother was rather better.

Thursday Nov 23. We shot in Blackthorn Spiney etc., same weather as yesterday nearly, but better sport. My Mother came to sit with us after dinner, and we had a rubber at cribbage. I am reading Lingards History of England up stairs and Pride and Prejudice downstairs.

Friday Nov 24. Day rather better; my Father went to shoot at Dallington. Lyttelton and I partridge shot at Brampton; good exercise but bad success. My Mother came to dessert and to cribbage.

Saturday Nov 25. At 10 1/2 I went in the carriage with my Father to near Huntsbury Hill where Bouverie gave us a days shooting. The weather was pretty good and we did tolerably well altogether. I rode home on Fatima. In the evening I read Persuasion and had no cribbage.

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(160 cont.i.)

Sunday Nov 26. We went to church all but my Mother. I then called on Vigoureux and saw his new room and garden which are both very nice. I then walked home by way of the kitchen garden and did not go out again. Mr. and Miss Baker, Dr. Robertson and Vigoureux dined with us; the latter having given us chapel. The 2 first staid till very late before they went away. Sarah was in despair of ever getting to bed. The two others staid to sleep. I had the beginning of a cold today.

Monday Nov 27. Dr. Robertson had gone away before breakfast. At 11 Lyttelton and I went out partridge shooting at Brampton, we tailorised, but did better than usual. The weather was very pleasant. There came to dinner Wentworth Buller, Robert Gunning and Henry Sawbridge, for shooting tomorrow. There was whist in the evening; I read Persuasion.

Tuesday Nov 28. We shot with a large party in Nobottle Wood and had good sport. I was very well today and yesterday. We had to dinner Sir John Miller, Rob Gunning and Bouverie; they played at whist.

Wednesday Nov 29. I had a cold and the day was bad so I did not make any sortie, but read the Sketch Book in Sarahs rooms and wrote letters to Freemantle and Wilson. I received one from both of them yesterday. We dined alone and in the evening had no cribbage, but I read Sketch book. Freemantle is living at Swanbourn and I have invited him here.

Thursday Nov 30. We went to shoot on Harleston Heath with Andrew. He gave us a very pretty days sport, but we shot most of us very badly. The day was beautiful. In the evening we had cribbage.

Friday Dec 1. Bouverie was so good as to offer me a days hunting on Twylight for today at Kelmarsh, so I breakfasted and set off at 8 1/2 on a hack to corn. I found Kelmarsh house full of dandy red coats. At 10 1/2 we began drawing and did little else till 2 1/2; for tho' we killed 2 foxes they gave no sport at all but two or three gallops across country. Among the gay assemblage I found Graham to my surprise. There were also Denbigh, Cury, Brudenel, Molyneux, the Golden Ball etc., etc., very different party from old times. I was sorry to lose the chance of a good days hunting which may not offer itself again in a hurry. I came back to Bricksworth where I found my hack sent home Twylight, and rode myself fast to Althorp where I arrived about 5 1/2. I overtook Butler who came to dine with us to meet Lord and Lady Nelville who are on their way to Apthorp, and stay here a few days. We had whist in the evening.

Saturday Dec 2. We went to shoot at Brampton, where I tailored as usual, but we had pretty sport. To dinner came Sir John Miller and Miss Neagle, Sir George Gunning, General and Mrs. Ross, Mr. King and Buller. In the evening there were two tables of whist, and
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(160 cont.ii.)

I played three games at billiards with Lyttelton.

Sunday Dec 3. We went to church in rather a large party. I walked there and back with Captain Buller, and afterwards did not go out as it rained a good deal. We had chapel at 5 1/2, and after it we had to dinner Mr. and Mrs. Thornton, Miss Neagle, Mrs. and Miss Buller and Captain Buller, Charles Bouverie and Vigoureux. In the evening Rockets which were not finished till 12.

Monday Dec 4. We went to shoot in Chinkwell Spiney. I tailored very much again, but was well amused. The Thorntons, Bullers and Henry Sawbridge dined with us. I played at whist afterwards with Mrs. Buller and retired about 11 1/2.

Althorp Dec 5 Wiseton Dec 17 1820 (161)

Thursday Dec 5. Today my Father and I were to go to town, so he started at 10 having some business at Northampton for 3 hours or so, and I followed at 1 on horseback; but my object of staying to see more of my Mother and Sarah was defeated by Mrs. Thornton who staid on talking till just before I was obliged to set off. I rode my Fathers new chessnut, and at Northampton lunched with him, with the 2 old Isteds in the room. We set off at 3 for Dunstable where we dined on larks and slept at the Sugar Loaf a nice Inn.

Wednesday Dec 6. We arrived at London about 12. Bad rainy weather. My Father went about his business; I called on Nannette, saw Dr. Wilson and walked with him, went then to Bishopsgate to Bloomfields house, where I saw john Hyde very much grown, and invited myself to dine on Sunday. I went in Hackney coach but walked back. At 6 1/2 my Father and I dined with Nanette, where I sat till 11, then home to write and settle affairs. We recived a quantity of letters today from Bob and Fritz.

Thursday Dec 7. At 10 my Father and I went to the house at Wimbledon where we were soon joined by Lord Melville who promised my Father to promote Fritz directly as he had determined to stay out in America. After we had begun shooting Duncannon, Fred and William Ponsonby joined us. We had very good sport allwete kai <Greek> at hares, and a fine day. When it began to grow dark we gave up and went to Roehampton where we dined at 6 1/2 with Col. McDonald. When he was gone away with Fredk. the remaining 4 of us men played at whist.

Friday Dec 8. We breakfasted at 10 and then met Sir Humphry Davy at Thibets Lodge to shoot. We had not such good sport as yesterday, but another fine day. We met at dinner Lord and Lady Melville and Mr. and Mrs. Abercrombie who staid till 10 1/2.

Saturday Dec 9. We left Roehampton at 10 1/2 with Duncannon and met my Father at the Lodge at Wimbledon. We shot till about 4 1/2 ending at the house. My Father and I dressed there and then drove to Town to dine with Lord and Lady Holland in Burlington Street. We came after they had sat down to dinner, and found there Lord and lady Ojeulston and William Ponsonby. Lord Holland was very pleasant as he always is, and my Lady not the contrary. Lady Jersey came for a visit in the evening, and my Father and I walked home at 10 1/4.

Sunday Dec 10. I breakfasted with my Father who soon after went off for Korton where he stays a day on his way to Althorp. I called on Nannette and then went to church at St. Jamess. I then walked about, called on different people, and at last on George Hibbert with whom I walked for some time. At 5 I started in a Hackney coach to dine with Bloomfield and Mrs. B. at Bishopsgate parsonage. John Hyde is still there, and Mr. Mawman dined there today. He has a nice house and is
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(161 cont.i.)

well established. Mrs. B. is very pretty and I like her altogether very well. I walked with Mawman as far as St. Pauls, then took a coach to St. Jamess and walked to the Alfred for a quarter of an hour. I came home about 11 1/2 and read some Jen Taylor.

Monday Dec 11. I breakfasted with Nannette, then at 11 called on Hibbert and walked with him to Lincolns Inn where I saw Brougham and Gambier for an hour in the rooms of the latter. He looks very ill and bilious with his law reading. I have no idea that he will ever be able to go on with it. Brougham looks and talks as of old. He is also sense to read law. He and Hibbert walked back with me; the latter came and sat with me at home till 4. At 5 I dined with Nannette and afterwards set off for the Bull and mouth where at 8 I started for Retford in the York Mail in which I slept almost all night, not very cold.

Tuesday Dec 12. Light found us about Stamford where we breakfasted. It rained all day. At 3 we reached Retford where a gig was waiting to take me to Wiseton. I had a very cold wet drive there of 8 miles. I found Althorp alone and very well. We dined at 6. In the evening I read Peters letters when we were not talking.

Wednesday Dec 13. Breakfast at 10. Afterwards we went to the farm, and then rabbit shooting at which we had very good sport, but I tailored more than usual in that line and killed but 6, and passed the evening as yesterday.

Thursday Dec 14. We went partridge shooting but the day was so cold that we could hardly get near any. We saw a great many hares tho'. I had a good walk of 4 miles home which was more comfortable than a cold ride. Mr. Shepherd of Clayworth dined with us; he is much older looking than when I last saw him, from having broken his thigh in a fall, he went away about 10.

Friday Dec 15. Althorp and I went rabbiting as usual at Skafforth Hill. I shot very often but very badly; we both walked home as it was not far. After dinner we talked all the evening without reading.

Saturday Dec 16. We shot at the same cover as Wednesday, the frost is set in very sharply; it was a proper black one today. We had very good sport, but it was coldish to stand still. In the evening I read some of Peters letters to his kinsfolk, after which Althorp and I talked about various subjects, and among others about marriage. I hope I may remember his advice as a con if I should soon think of the step.

Sunday Dec 17. The ground was covered with snow this morning, so we neither of us went to church. I read up stairs and down stairs, and we took a walk about the farm to see all the cows and bulls. The evening was diversified by prayers, from the usual reading and talking. Althorp read them to all the house.

(162) Wiseton Dec 18 to Althorp Dec 25 1820

Monday Dec 18. At 11 1/2 we went shooting, but it was very uncomfortable to say the least. For the snow was thawing and the ground was in a squash, and a heavy mist was falling. We got some shots tho'. We came home a little sooner than usual. I saw the crown bird and engaged one of Chowlers spaniels for Blomfield. Mr. Shepherd and Mr. Stoving a Clayworth farmer dined with us, and stock was the subject of conversation till 10 when they went away, and I soon after went to sleep at Barnby Moor to take the Mail tomorrow; this is one of the great North road inns.

Tuesday Dec 19. The Mail came to breakfast here; so, there being one place left I took it, and breakfasted and then set off with them. It was rather a fine day. We dined at 4 at Stamford, and at 8 came to tea at Huntingdon where I stopped and slept at the Fountain Inn. After tea I wrote a letter to Lefevre.

Wednesday Dec 20. I got up by 7 1/2 to catch the Cambridge and Birmingham coach to Northampton; but it was full and I was obliged to postchaise it. When I got to Thrapston I luckily met Dr. Robertson who was in there waiting to return to Northampton, and who having as I did found the coach full was very glad to go halves in my post chaise, so we went on together, no less to my satisfaction than to his. He met his horse near Billing, to go another ride across country. I went on and reached Althorp about 2 1/2. I found the gentlemen out shooting, but sat with Sarah and my Mother who is very well now, but has had a little ailing since I saw her. At dinner we had the Lytteltons, Robert Gunning, Vigoureux who is in the house a dimeure, and Harris who is grown a good deal and sits at table. In the evening we had some whist. Henry Bridgeman is I hear at Horton, but going away so soon that I cannot see him.

Thursday Dec 21. This day, as Nurse Strode I believe used to say, I was 21 years old at 4 o'clock in the morning. It is a great day for some people but it makes little odds indeed to me; and as I have none to wish for that is all as it should be. It would have perhaps passed unnoticed if Vigoureux had not started the subject at breakfast. At 11 we went to shoot in Nobottle Wood, but did not do much altogether. I ended well in killing two successive shots at Woodcocks. The day was very pleasant. Gunning went away before dinner. I sat with Sarah reading when I returned till dinner. Harris was out, he is very much improved in disposition and manners, but in learning a very little I fear. After dinner I played a game at billiards with him, and then we had cribbage. How seldom does a birthday strike one in a serious point of view! and yet it should be the great epoch of ones life for new resolutions and amendment of life, and still more a period of thankfulness to our great protector for the consummation of another year full of mercies. In this latter point I have much to excite my gratitude since my last natalia. Not only the general benefits of undiminished fortunes, of successful undertakings and
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amusements, but particularly the great improvement of my general health, after a pure conscience, the greatest blessing man can enjoy. But that summum bonum itself, which I am myself responsible for, I fear has been sadly neglected. Travelling and gadding about is certainly accompanied by great danger of relaxation of principle. My slow natural disposition prevented me from committing myself in excesses, but I am mad enough to repine and vex myself at that safeguard which should confirm my self-denial. With me it is my thoughts that are unruly, and to them I am indebted for all the small share of unhappiness I may have lately sustained. I hoped that age would strengthen my power over my own mind; but I grieve to find it on the contrary much diminished. There then must my strivings be directed, and in them may Heaven guide me. My own resolution is but weak against the run of my besetting temptations.

Friday Dec 22. I went with Harris to see some coursing about Brington Hills. There were two or three couple of greyhounds belonging to Mr. Vanderplank a farmer of Buckby. The dogs were bad, the hares good and therefore only one was killed out of a great many courses before 2 1/2 o'clock, and that one by foul play. There were many people out; but it was as dull as usual with that sport. We returned about 3, and I was at home till dinner. Tom Fremantle came to visit us today. He looks very well and not at all altered in manner or disposition from the confabs I had with him before dinner, and at bed time. We had whist with Vigoureux in the evening.

Saturday Dec 23. Fremantle and I went out shooting after breakfast about Brington, and with Ben Chowler and Harris. It was a fine day enough, and we had good sport for the time of year. We bought some bread and cheese and beer for luncheon in little Brington. Lyttelton was out alone with Chris Chowler. Dr. Blomfield and Sir Humphry and Lady Davy came today making 11 at dinner. There was whist and reading in the evening.

Sunday Dec 24. At 11 Blomfield gave us service in the chapel. About 2 after luncheon Fremantle, he and I walked to the Lodges, then round the Park to the garden and the kennel; I suppose 4 miles. I played at billiards before going out with Lyttelton and Sir Humphry, and after I heard the former read a sermon in Sarahs drawing room. Lord and Lady Bessborough, William and Lady Barbara Ponsonby and Colonel Shawe came today, but the Ponsonbys too late for the beginning of dinner. We therefore sat down 14. The Elkows were expected but did not come. The evening passed stupidly without anything but talking and staring at one another.

Monday Dec 25. Christmas day. Blomfield gave us service in chapel, and the Sacrament which I took. I played one game at billiards with Lyttelton and took a walk with Blomfield and Fremantle round Harleston and through the pheasantry there; I should think 5 or 6 miles. Fred Ponsonby came today as he did on this day two years ago. Blomfield left us after dinner to take the Mail to London. We had 17 at dinner. In the evening there was a table of Pope Joan, one of whist, and one of chess.

Althorp Dec 26 (163)

Tuesday Dec 26. We shot in Chinkwell Spiney and the neighbouring belts and had excellent sport, altho' I tailored as usual. When the shooting was over I set off full speed to Dallington whither the Postman also took my dressing traps. I dined at Sir John Millers who was to give a Ball this evening. Besides him and Miss Neagh his neice, I found the 3 Miss Bouveries, Chas and James, Dr. Robert and Spencer Gunning, Mr. William Thursby and his sister Miss Forster, Pigot, Douglas, Thornton, Messrs. Edgel Mowbray and Riddle (the clergyman of East Haddon) who only came after dinner to the dance. The house was very cold, but the dinner good enough. We first had some singing after dinner, and began dancing about 9, which continued till 4 with the intermission of supper about 12! The order of the day was country dances and quadrilles, alternate; excepting the minuet de la cour badly danced by Misses Forster and Thursby, a Scotch reel, la coquette etc. I danced with Miss Forster, Miss Cath Bouverie, Carol Ditto, Miss Neagle, Miss Elisabeth Bouverie and Miss Thursby.

Wednesday Dec 27. I got up at Dallington by about 11, when we had breakfast and I rode off; first to Brampton where I was directed, but not finding them shooting there I went to the house, and thence to Harpole Hills where and in Nobottle we spent the day, but had very few shots. I found Lord Elkow out. They arrived yesterday with Georgiana Bingham and so did Mr. Grenville. Rogers came today. I sat at the bottom of the table between him and Lady Davy. 19 at table, Vigoureux being gone again to his own company. In the evening we had Pope Joan. Louisa Elkow is most beautiful and sweet tempered apparently, and Georgiana I think is much improved in both respects. I sat a long time in Fremantles room talking till very late he smoking me an***.

Thursday Dec 28. We played at battledoor and shuttlecock and billiards after breakfast about 12 1/2, my Father and Elkow with guns, and I without one, went a walk across the Hobinby grounds and most exceedingly cold it was. Fremantle went away about 1. I read Lingard before dinner. The evening passed off without any round game very well. 18 at table.

Friday Dec 29. We went to shoot at Brampton and had pretty sport. The day was very cold but not like yesterday. We most of us walked there and back. I then read my Lingard; the same 18 at dinner. In the evening Pope Joan, whist and chess.

Saturday Dec 30. Very cold frosty and windy weather. we played at battledoor for a good while till about 12. I went off to Horton on the Haddon mare to see Henry Bridgeman who is there with his wife detained by her having miscarried. It is a sad thing as they have been married but a short time. I sat with him about an hour; Sir George is not there. Bridgeman does not look well himself. Our acquaintance has fallen off a great deal, but I hope to renew it, for when I knew him intimately I found him to be an excellent
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(163 cont.)

fellow. In returning I called on Mrs. Kerr. The same company at dinner. After dinner two whist tables, and no round game so I retired early.

Sunday Dec 31. Lyttelton and I went to church and heard Vigoureux. That walk sufficed to me for all day. I played at billiards with Lyttelton and Sir Humphry, and at 5 heard a sermon read by the former in Sarahs drawing room. We had chapel and Vigoureux dined with us, but Louisa did not appear, being tired with battledooring in the morning; so we were still 18. We had a noisy and jolly game at Rockets in the evening. There ended this year as the last with a very pleasant evening, as far as noise and fun can make it; but a more reasonable way would be ( as I am now in my room with my watch in my hand nearly on the stroke of twelve ) to end it in making good resolutions for the year to come, which may I hope pass as prosperously, and more usefully than the last. – The new year is now commenced, and I recommend myself to the protection and guidance of almighty providence to bring me safely and well to the end of it. I bid farewell to this journal book which is but a record of my follies and absurdities and weaknesses, to myself who know the motives of the actions which are herein commemorated, and of many more which I have done well to omit. There is no fear of my forgetting them, nor do I wish it. The less other men know about my inward thoughts the better for me in their estimation.

(164)

1817
Oct 18. 1 London 4
" 22. 1 Cambridge 56
Dec 17. Hildersham 2
" 19. 2 Cambridge 1
" 20. 2 Hildersham 4
" 24. 3 Cambridge Sun Inn 1
" 25. 1 Althorp 9
1818

1819
Jan 13. Delapre 1
Jan 14. 5 Althorp 1
Jan 15. Harlestone 1
Jan 16. 6 Althorp 3
Jan 19. Harborough 3
" 22. 7 Althorp 5
27. 10 London 5
Feb 1. Richmond 1
Jan 3. 4 Cambridge 17
20. 3 Hildersham 3
23. 5 Cambridge 12
Travelling 1 Feb 5. 2 London 2

2. 11 London 3
5. 12 Cambridge 5
10. Wellingborough 1
11. 13 Cambridge 23
Mar 6. Northampton 1
7. 6 Cambridge 36
Mar 15. 3 London 7
22. Wimbledon 3
25. 4 London 1
26. Oxford 5
31. 7 Cambridge 57
May 27. 5 London 4
31. 2 Wimbledon 2 June 2. 6 London 1
3. 8 Cambridge 10
13. 7 London 4
17. 2 Althorp 3
20. Wiseton 13
July 3. Buckden 1
4. 9 Cambridge 28
Aug 1. Birmingham 1

7. 14 Cambridge 29
Apr 6. 12 London 5
11. 5 Wimbledon 5
16. 13 London 1
17. 15 Cambridge 52
June 8. 14 London 5
13. 6 Wimbledon 2
15. 15 London 6
21. 7 Wimbledon 1
22. 16 London 1
23. 2 Oxford 3
26. 8 Wimbledon 1
27. 16 Cambridge 12
July 9. 2 Chesterford 1
10. Wimpole 1
11. 17 Cambridge 3
2. Shrewsbury 1
3. Towyn 5
8. Machynleth 2
10. 2 Towyn 3
13. Barmouth 1
14. 3 Towyn 4
18. Glandyfi 1
19. 4 Towyn 18
Sep 6. Aberyswyth 5
11. 5 Towyn 4
15. 2 Machynleth 2
17. 6 Towyn 8
25. Brynygwin 2
27. Caernarvon 2
29. Conway 1
Travelling
Oct 2. 3 Wimbledon 4
6. 8 London 1
7. 4 Wimbledon 2
9. 9 London 2
10. 3 Althorp 13
23. 10 Cambridge 23

(164 cont.i.)

Nov 15. Chesterford 1
16. Audley End 2
18. 11 Cambridge 31
Dec 19. 4 Althorp 25

14. 9 Wimbledon 2
16. 17 London 1
17. 10 Wimbledon 3
20. Stowe 2
22. 11 Wimbledon 27
Travelling
Aug 19. H.M.S.Ganymede 4
23. 12 Wimbledon 14
Sep 6. Sandridge 3
9. 18 London 5
14. Rochester 1
Packet boat 1
16. Calais 1
17. Montreuil 1
18. Amiens 1
19. Chantilly 1
20. Paris 6
26. Fontainebleau 1
27. Auxerre 1
28. Maison Neuve 1
29. Dijon 1
30. Poligny 1

Oct 1. Morez 1
2. Secheron 3
5. Lausanne 2

=================================================================
Oct 7. Bex 1
8. Sion 1
9. Brigg 1
10. Duomo d'Opola 1
11. Arona 1
12. Milan 13
25. Placentia 2
27. Parma 2
29. Bologna 3
Nov 1. Covigliajo 1
2. Florence 5
7. Arezzo 1
8. Perugia 1
9. Spoleto 1
10. Civita Castellana 1
11. Rome 7
18. Veletri 1
19. Terracina 1
20. Mola di Gaieta 1
21. Capua 2
23. Naples 78
1820
10. Salerno 2
12. 2 Naples 8
20. Beneventura 1
21. 3 Naples 7
on the Nymph 4
Mar 3. Messina 3
6. Giardini 1
7. Nicolosi Convent 1
8. Catania 4
12. Lentini 1
13. Syracuse 5
18. Noto 1
19. Palazzuolo 1
20. Calata Girone 1
21. Castro Giovanni 2
23. Calta Nisetta 1
24. Girgenti 4
28. Sciacca 1
29. Castel Vetrano 1
30. Marsala 1
31. Trapani 2

Ap 24. Rotonda 1
25. Lagonero 1
26. Auletta 1
27. 2 Salerno 1
28. 4 Naples 5
May 3. 2 Terracina 1
4. 2 Rome 4
8. Tivoli 1
9. 3 Rome 27
June 6. Albano 1
7. 4 Rome 1
Travelling 1
9. Sienna 2
11. 2 Florence 15
26. Prato vecchio 1
27. Camaldoli 1
28. La Verna 1
29. 3 Florence 3
Travelling 1
July 3. Pisa 2
5. Lucca 1
6. Carrara 1
7. Sestri 1
8. Genoa 6
14. 2 Sestri 1
15. La Giarre 1
16. 2 Parma 2
18. 2 Bologna 6
24. Rovigo 1
25. Venice 6
Travelling 1
Aug 1. Verona 4
5. Bardolino 1
6. Salo 1
7. Riva 1
8. Affi 1
9. Trent 1
10. Brixen 1
11. Innsbruck 1
Travelling 1
13. Munich 6
19. Rosenheim 1
20. Berthesgaden 5

(164 cont.ii.)

Apr 2. Alcamo 1
3. Palermo 6
9. Ternini 1
10. Alimena 1
11. St.Filippo d'Argiro1
ascending Etna 1
13. Jaci Reale 1
14. 2 Giardini 1
15. 2 Messina 3
18. Reggio 1
19. Palmi 1
20. Monteleone 1
21. Nicastro 1
22. Cosenza 1
23. Spezzano 1

25. Saltzburg 1
26. St. Gilgen 1
27. Wels 1
28. Lintz 1
29. Marbach 1
30. Vienna 7
Travelling 7
Sep 13. Tournay 1
14. 2 Calais 1
Travelling 1
16. 9 London 1
17. 8 Althorp 16
Travelling 1
Oct 4. 20 London 2
6. Brighton 1
Packet vessel 1
Travelling 1

(165)

1820
Oct 9. Rouen 1
10. 2 Paris 3
Travelling 3
16. Lyon 1
Travelling 1
18. 2 Secheron 1
19. Bethuey 15
Travelling 3
Nov 6. Nancy 3
Travelling 2
11. 3 Paris 2
Travelling 1
14. 3 Calais 4
Travelling 1
19. 21 London 1
20. 9 Althorp 16
Dec 6. Dunstable 1
7. 22 London 1
8. Roehampton 2
10. 23 London 2
Travelling 1
13. 2 Wiseton 6
19. Barnby Moor 1
20. Huntingdon 1
21. 10 Althorp 6
27. Dallington 1
28. 11 Althorp 4